MAHARASHTRA STATE BOARD OF TECHNICAL EDUCATION , MUMBAI TEACHING AND EXAMINATION SCHEME COURSE NAME : DIPLOMA IN DRESS DESIGNING & GARMENT MANUFACTURING COURSE CODE : DD DURATION OF COURSE : SIX SEMESTERS/THREE YEARS WITH EFFECT FROM 2008 - 09 SEMESTER : THIRD DURATION : 16 WEEKS FULL TIME / PART TIME: FULL TIME SCHEME - C SR. NO
SUBJECT TITLE
SUBJECT CODE
TEACHING SCHEME
EXAMINATION SCHEME TH
TH
TU
PR
PAPER HRS
MAX
MIN
TEST
TOTAL
PR
OR
TW
MAX
MIN
MAX
MIN
MAX
MIN
MAX
MIN
1
Clothing Technology - I
9431
04
--
08
02
40
14
10
50
20
50#
20
--
--
25@
10
2
Textile Processing
9432
02
--
--
02
40
14
10
50
20
--
--
--
--
--
--
3
Fashion Illustration - I
--
01
--
05
--
--
--
--
--
--
50#
40
--
--
25@
10
4
Computer Applications -I
--
01
--
02
--
--
--
--
--
--
50@
20
--
--
--
--
5
Fabric Ornamentation - II
--
01
--
03
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
-
--
50@
20
6
Design Process - III
--
01
--
03
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
-
--
50@
20
7
Career Skills - III
--
01
--
02
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
25#
10
50@
20
11
--
23
--
80
--
20
100
--
150
--
25
--
200
--
TOTAL
STUDENT CONTACT HOURS PER WEEK (FORMAL TEACHING) :
34 HRS.
THEORY AND PRACTICAL PERIODS OF 60 MINUTES EACH. @ - INTERNAL ASSESSMENT , # - EXTERNAL ASSESSMENT TOTAL MARKS – 475 ABBREVIATIONS : TH – THEORY , TU – TUTORIAL , PR – PRACTICALS , OR –ORAL, TW – TERMWORK. All Practical, Oral and Term Work assessment are to be done as per the prevailing norms for implementation and assessment.
1
Course Name : Diploma in Dress Designing & Garment Manufacturing Course Code : DD Semester
: Third
Subject Title : Clothing Technology-I Subject Code : 9431 Teaching and Examination Scheme: Teaching Scheme
Examination Scheme
TH
TU
PR
PAPER HRS
TH
TEST
PR
OR
TW
TOTAL
04
--
08
02
40
10
50#
--
25@
125
RATIONALE:
Flat fabric needs to be given shape according to body contours; hence study of principles of body contouring becomes imperative for students of clothing technology. As body types vary Paper Patterns need to be modified according to figures At times, advanced techniques of added fullness, such as, cowls, are used which adds grace and beauty to the design. Construction of trouser for men, women, and children will provide a more rounded knowledge
OBJECTIVES: The students will be able to: 1. 2. 3. 4.
Fit garments to body shape using principles of contouring Alterations as per fig. Types Cut and stitch trouser Manipulate charts to derive different cowl patterns
2
LEARNING STRUCTURE :
Application
Combining the principles of contouring, dart manipulation and added fullness to create styles, such as, empire style lines, strapless designs, cowls, etc.
Procedure
Adjustment of bodice, sleeves, skirts according to figure types Demonstration of various types of cowls and their effects
Principle
Fitting Analysis Principles of contouring Principles of dart manipulation for trousers Principles of added fullness for style
Concept
Fact
Fittings of body, sleeve, skirts and trousers Contours of the body Dart manipulation for trousers Added fullness for style
Fittings, contouring, advanced dart manipulation and advance added fullness
3
CONTENT: Theory Chapter
Hours
Marks
20
12
2
Fitting Analysis according to figure types for 2.1. Bodice 2.2. Sleeve 2.3. Skirts 2.4. Trousers
14
08
3
Dart Manipulation for Trouser
10
08
20
12
64
40
1
Name of the Topic Principles of Contouring 1.1 Cut out Necklines 1.2. Cut out armholes 1.3. Armhole case 1.4. Empire Style Line 1.5. Contouring between the bust 1.6. Strapless design 1.7. Shoulder slope and side ease 1.8.
Back
Cowls 1) 2) 3) 4) 5) 6) 7) 8)
4
High relaxed cowl Mid-depth cowl Low Cowl Deep Cowl Black Cowl Armhole Cowl Insert Cowl Pleated Cowl
Note: All assignments should be done using the ¼ th scale Total PRACTICAL: Skills to be developed: 1.
Intellectual Skills 1. Understand the principles of contouring for fitting analysis 2. Understand manipulation of dart for cowl tops
2.
Psycho motor 1. Cut and sew trouser for men and women 2. Cut and sew pyjama block for children 3. Cut and sew a cowl top 4. Cut and sew a choli using contouring principles
4
List of Practicals: 1.
Trouser Block 1.1. Close-fitting block for men 1.2. Close-fitting block for women 1.3. Pyjama block for children 1.4. Drafting and paper pattern for above types of trousers
2. 3. 4.
Design, construct and stitch any one of the above trousers Design, construct and stitch a ‘cowl top’ Using the ‘Principles of contouring’, design, construct and stitch a ‘choli’
Learning Resources Books: Sr.No
Author
1
Hilary Campbell
2.
-Helen Joseph Armstrong
3. 4.
Ann Haggar
5
Winfred Aldrich
6.
Aldrich
7.
Winifred Aldrich
8.
Paul Hamlyn Harold Carr & Barbara Latham --
9. 10.
Title Designing Patterns – fresh approach to Pattern cutting New Complete Guide to Sewing Pattern Making for fashion Design Pattern Cutting For Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear (Semester (V & VI) Metric Pattern Cutting for Children’s Wear Pattern Cutting for Women’s Tailored Jackets ( Semester VI) Metric Pattern Cutting for women’s wear Mc Call’s Sewing The Technology of Clothing Manufacture Sewing Theory
5
Publisher Om Books Service/Stanley thornes Publications Ltd., Reader’s Digest Addison Wesley Longman Inc. Blackwell Science Ltd., Blackwell Science Ltd., Blackwell Science Ltd., Blackwell Science Ltd., Hamlyn Publishing Group Blackwell Science Ltd., ( Reader’s Digest)
Course Name : Diploma in Dress Designing & Garment Manufacturing Course Code : DD Semester
: Third
Subject Title : Textile Processing Subject Code : 9432 Teaching and Examination Scheme: Teaching Scheme
Examination Scheme
TH
TU
PR
PAPER HRS
TH
TEST
PR
OR
TW
TOTAL
02
--
--
02
40
10
--
--
--
50
RATIONALE: It will help designers merchandisers choose appropriate fabric for their designs. Also, help them to enhance a fabric through dyeing, printing and finishing processes. It will also equip them to have quality checks on fabrics. OBJECTIVES: The students will be able to : 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Describe fabric manufacturing process Differentiate various weaves Inspect grey fabric Apply different dyes to different fabrics Print fabrics
6
LEARNING STRUCTURE:
Application
To identify fabric, To understand dyeing, printing and finishing processes for enhancement of fabric, To check fabric for quality
Procedure
Identification of fabric by understanding the structure, Classification of dyes and application, Printing and finishing processes, Quality control tests
Principles
Principles of fabric, Enhancement of fabric
Concepts
Weaving, Basic weaves and variations, Chemical and mechanical finishes of grey fabric, Dyeing, Printing, Testing
Fact
Fabric
7
CONTENT: Theory Chapter
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Name of the Topic Introduction of fabric manufacturing. 1.1 Objective of different process involved in fabric manufacturing (winding, warping, sizing, drawing-in, pisn winding) Weaving – primary motions – shedding, picking and beatup. Secondary motion – let off and take-up. Introduction to different terms in weaving (epi, ppi, cover factor, gsm etc.) Types of weaves: a) Basic weaves (Plain, Twill & Satin) b) Leno weave, Dobby weave, Herringbone, broken twill, Jacquard weave Note: Prepare the Catalogue Resource book by collecting samples with all the specifications of the fabric as an assignment. Inspection of Grey fabrics and its significance. 3.1 Purpose of various pre-treatment a. Singeing b. Desizing c. Scouring d. Bleaching e. Mercerising Classification of dyes (based on origin and application) 4.1 Introduction to dyeing of cotton, viscose with direct, reactive, vat sulphur and 9zoic 4.2 Polyester and nylon with disperse dyes 4.3 Wool and silk with acid and basic dyes Introduction to printing of textile fabrics 5.1 Printing techniques, Block, screen, rotary and roller printing, Transfer printing 5.2 Introduction to styles of printing. Discharge, Resist and direct style. 5.3 Fixation of printing (steaming, curing processes) Soaping of prints. Classification of finishes given to a fabric. Brief introduction to chemical (wash and wear, water repellent, soft finish flame retardant) Mechanical (Brushing, Calendering, Sanforising, Decatizing) Quality Control in Textiles Brief introduction to chemical Test: Colour fastness, Dimension, Stability. Physical Test: Tensile strength, Tearing Strength, Crease recovery, pilling strength. Total
8
Hours
Marks
02
04
06
08
04
04
06
06
06
08
04
06
04
04
32
40
Learning Resources: Books: Sr.No 1
Author Prof. V.A. Shenai
2
Datye and Vaidya
3
V.A. Shenai
4
V.A. Shenai,
5
E.R. Trotman
6
John Shore
Cellulosic Dyeing
7
R.M. Mittal,
Cotton Cloth Dyeing,
8
Corbman, The Gregg
Textile Fibre to Fabrics
9 10 11
-V.A. Shenai by J.T. Marsh
Title Technology of bleaching Chemical Processing of Synthetic fibres and blends Chemistry of Dyes and Principles of Dyeing Technology of Dyeing Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fibres
Colour Fastness of Textiles and Leather Technology of Textile finishing An introduction to textile finishing
9
Publisher --Sevak Publications, Mumbai Sevak Publications, Mumbai (B.I. Publications, New Delhi) Society of Dyers and Colourists, England The Textile Association of India Mc-Graw-Hill Marketing Series The Society of Dyers and Colourists, England. ---
Course Name : Diploma in Dress Designing & Garment Manufacturing Course Code : DD Semester
: Third
Subject Title : Fashion Illustration-I Subject Code : -Teaching and Examination Scheme: Teaching Scheme
Examination Scheme
TH
TU
PR
PAPER HRS
TH
TEST
PR
OR
TW
TOTAL
01
--
05
--
--
--
50#
--
--
75
RATIONALE : Other than designs Illustrators need to depict minute details of accessories and style to show the final look. Hence, the ability of drawing and paintings techniques for realistic representation of these is essential. OBJECTIVES: Students will be able to show styles, accessories, garment details through techniques of sketching and rendering.
10
CONTENTS: Theory Chapter 1
2
3
4
5
6
Name of the Topic Life drawing to understand proportion and gesticulation
Hours 03
Basics of stylized croquis a. Use of stick and ink, crow quill and markers to show quick sketched life drawings b. Use of strokes to bring out style in illustrations.
02
Wet media a. Understanding brushes (types used and properties) and strokes b. Understanding water, photo, ink, poster and acrylic c. Using palettes knives, blades and other Alternative objects of painting Garments and Garment details a. Necklines and collars b. Sleeves details c. Trouser lengths d. Pleats and gathers e. Jackets f. Ruffles, cascades, cowls and drapes
03
Accessories a. Draw i. Shoes, shoes, stockings, socks ii. Jewelery, caps, hats, barettes iii. Hairclips, rubber bands, hair bands iv. Scarves, bandanas v. Sunglasses, belts, etc. b. Draw actual clothes and accessories to understand from observation all their unique components and style Using variety of media and papers segregate clothes in category of: a. Casual wear b. Formal c. Club d. Street wear e. Indian
03
02
Total
11
03
16
PRACTICAL: Skills to be developed: 1.
Intellectual Skills 1. Understand proportion and gesticulation of live drawings. 2. Understand basics of stylized croquis. 3. Understand wet media.
2.
Psycho motor skills 1. Rendering with wet media. 2. Illustrating garment and garment details. 3. Drawing clothes and accessories. 4. Drawing casual wear, formal, club, street wear and Indian wear.
LIST OF PRACTICALS: 1. Exercises on ‘Wet Media (4 Nos.) 2. Exercises on ‘Accessories’ (10Nos.) 3. Exercises on ‘Variety of Media and Paper’ (5 Nos.) Learning Resources: Books: Sr.No 1 2
Author Bina Abling Burne Hogarth
Title Fashion Sketch Book Dynamic Anatomy
12
Publisher ---
Course Name : Diploma in Dress Designing & Garment Manufacturing Course Code : DD Semester
: Third
Subject Title : Computer Application - I Subject Code : -Teaching and Examination Scheme: Teaching Scheme
Examination Scheme
TH
TU
PR
PAPER HRS
TH
TEST
PR
OR
TW
TOTAL
01
--
02
--
--
--
50@
--
--
50
RATIONALE: MS Corel Draw/Illustrator is one of the basic tools of design. For students of fashion design this software forms the foundation. OBJECTIVE: Students will be able to:
Create shapes and modify existing images creatively Enhance imported images Use Text And Images Together
13
CONTENT: Theory Chapter
1
2
Name of the Topic
Hours
MS Corel Draw a. Creating basic shapes b. Duplicating, Moving, Deleting objects c. Sizing, Rotating, Skewing, Mirror d. All types of Fill effects e. All types of Outline effects f. Creating own shapes g. Using clipart and Scanned images h. Typing text and Formatting text i. Various effects, such as, drop shadow, transparency etc. j. Saving files in various format and printing Application of Corel Draw
06
10 Total
16
PRACTICAL: Skills to be developed: 1. Intellectual Skills -Understanding Corel Draw features 2. Psycho motor Skills - Designing using Corel Draw features LIST OF PRACTICALS: 1. Designing motifs using basic shapes (10 Nos.) 2. Jewelery designing (necklace, finger ring, ear rings, pendant, bracelet) and creating suitable backdrop using various fill and outline options (5 Nos.) 3. Garment designing, i.e. showing garment on Croqui (2 Nos.) 4. Scanning fabrics (swatches) and using them on garment (2 Nos.) Window Display using suitable props and background for garment designed on Croqui (3 Nos) Learning Resources: Books: Sr.No 1
Author
Title
Publisher
Rick Altman
Corel Draw 7 (3rd edition)
BPB publications
14
Course Name : Diploma in Dress Designing & Garment Manufacturing Course Code : DD Semester
: Third
Subject Title : Fabric Ornamentation-II Subject Code : -Teaching and Examination Scheme: Teaching Scheme
Examination Scheme
TH
TU
PR
PAPER HRS
TH
TEST
PR
OR
TW
TOTAL
01
--
03
--
--
--
--
--
50@
50
RATIONALE: Designs today depend extensively on enhancements of fabric surface. Inspiration can be drawn from World embroidery and even traditional yarn craft, such as, crochet, macramé, knitting and French knitting. Also, texturing which can be learnt and made use of in innovative ways. The purpose is to apply knowledge of this subject in the subject of Design Process. Objectives : The student will be able to : (i) (ii) (iii) (iv) (v)
Adapting World embroidery in contemporary designs Applying yarn craft in innovative ways Combining different texturing processes to form unique designs Developing textures Analysis of current market trends in fabric ornamentation
15
DETAILED CONTENTS: Chapter
1
Name of the Topic
Hours
World Embroidery a. European i. Blackwork ii. Canvas iii. Colbert iv. Hardanger v. Mount Mellick vi. Naverson vii. Pulled Thread viii. Schwalm ix. Raised Elizabethan x. Cutwork b. Chinese c. African d. Latin American
03
Texturing
2
3
a. b. c. d. e. f. Yarn Craft g. h. i. j.
Pleating Quilting Patchwork Layering Cording Ribbon Embroidery
08
Crochet Macramé Knitting French Knitting
05
Total
16
16
PRACTICAL: Skills to be developed: Intellectual Skills 1. Learning different world embroidery art 2. Creating innovative textures Psycho motor Skills 1. Preparing samples for texturing, macramé, crochet, knitting and French knitting LIST OF PRACTICALS: 1. Exercise on World Embroidery (2Nos.) 2. Exercise on Texturing (6 Nos.) 3. Exercise on Yarn Craft (4 Nos.) Learning Resources: Books: Sr.No
Author
Title
1
Speena Cable
Silk Ribbon Embroidery
2
Jill Nordfous Clark
Needle Lace
3
Setsuko Segawa
Japanese Quilt Art
4
--
New Wave Quilt
5
Bijoya Chandra Mohanty
Appliqué Craft of Orissa
6
Christine Kingdom
7
Pauline Brown
Ribbons & Bows The Encyclopedia of Embroidery Techniques
17
Publisher New Holland Publication Ltd., Hand Books Press Mitsunura Suikoshoin Co.Ltd., Mitsumura Suiko Shoin Calico Museum Of Textile New Burlington Books A Quarto Book
Course Name : Diploma in Dress Designing & Garment Manufacturing Course Code : DD Semester
: Third
Subject Title : Design Process - III Subject Code : -Teaching and Examination Scheme: Teaching Scheme
Examination Scheme
TH
TU
PR
PAPER HRS
TH
TEST
PR
OR
TW
TOTAL
01
--
03
--
--
--
--
--
50@
50
RATIONALE: To be able to teach a student Art appreciation and how to successfully apply art for fashion designing. OBJECTIVE: The student will be able to appreciate, analyse, interpret and adapt art in their various stages as a student and designers.
18
CONTENT: Theory Chapter 1
Name of the Topic To understand the impact of Art and Textiles on Fashion:i) Indian Textile – Historic and contemporary
Hours 03
ii) World Textile (Briefly)
03 03
3
iii) Art impact on fashion – how photography, sculptures, Historic Art, contemporary art, pop art, relief art, mobile art sculptures etc.
02
4
iv) Historic World Art – Cave painting, Egyptian Art, Mesopotamian Art, Greek Art, Roman Art, Mexican Art etc with reference to DECORA
5
v) How to apply the above mentioned topics to create your own prints, textures, embellishments, embroidery patterns etc.
05
2
Total
16
PRACTICAL: Skills to be developed: Intellectual Skills - To appreciate, analyze, interpret and adapt art in various stages of design process Psycho motor Skills - Prepare mood board and story board for collection - Make illustrations of two collections on wearable art List of Practicals To create 2 collections based on wearable art a very creative art based collection where the above mentioned topics are of main focus. Material used can be very creative e.g. Paper, wood shavings, tubes, wires, bottles, metal sheets etc. Learning Resources: Books Sr.No
Titles of Magazine
1
Decora
2
Marg Magazines
3
Guild series,
4
Internet google.com
19
Course Name : Diploma in Dress Designing & Garment Manufacturing Course Code : DD Semester
: Third
Subject Title : Career Skills-III Subject Code : -Teaching and Examination Scheme: Teaching Scheme
Examination Scheme
TH
TU
PR
PAPER HRS
TH
TEST
PR
OR
TW
TOTAL
01
--
02
--
--
--
--
25#
50@
75
RATIONALE Like oral and written communication, interpersonal relationships play a vital role in the workplace. The ability to listen, to understand non verbal behavior goes a long way to establish rapport with colleagues. Also, given the general workload, health is an area that should not be neglected at any cost. OBJECTIVES: Students will be able to : (i) (ii) (iii) (iv) (v)
Write effectively Understand non verbal behavior Listen well Manage time effectively Appreciate health concerns
20
CONTENT: Theory Chapter
1
2
Name of the Topic Writing Style a. Literary and Business writing b. 5 C’s of effective writing c. Words Jargon Vague and concrete Turning verb into noun Slangs d. Sentences Active and passive Repetitions Modifiers Parallel constructions Sentence fragments Too many ideas in one sentence e. Paragraphs Topic sentence Length of paragraph One main idea Line spacing and paragraph spacing Bullet points Proof reading f. General Tone Positive vs. negative Non verbal communication a. Definition b. Different kinds of non verbal communication Body language: Kinesics Proxemics Haptics Vocalics Physical Appearance Chronomics Artefacts
Hours
06
02
Graphic symbols c. Understanding cross cultural non verbal behaviors d. Using non verbal methods for improved communication
3
Listening skills a. Listening b. Importance of listening skills c. Barriers in listening
21
02
d. Developing listening skills e. Exercises
4
Time Management a. Introduction b. The process of Time Planning c. Time Management d. Ways to get the most out of time e. Case Study/ Exercise f. Conclusion
02
Health
5
a. b. c. d. e. f.
Introduction Health Food, Exercise, Rest Body Observation, Protection Dietary Guidelines Addictions Conclusion
6
Internship Presentation
02
02 Total
Note: Term work based on the above topics PRACTICAL: Skills to be developed: 1.
Intellectual Skills 1. Understand techniques of good writing 2. Understanding concepts of non verbal behavior 3. Understanding concept of listening skills 4. Understanding concepts of time management 5. Understanding concepts of health management
LIST OF PRACTICALS: 1. Role play 2. Speech
22
16
Learning Resources Books: Sr. No
Author
Title Contemporary Business Communication
1
--
2
Mortha Prabhakar Rao
Any Day English For Effective Communication
3
J.E. Metcalfe
The Right Way to Improve your English
4
Marion Field
Improve your written English
5
Ros Jay & Antony Jay
Effective Presentations
6
Amita Ahuja
How to develop Listening Skills
7
Pramila Ahuja
How to listen Better
Writing http://careerplanning.about.com/cs/miscskills/a/writing_skills.htm http://www.khake.com/page66.html Listening Skills http://www.adv-leadership-grp.com/Listen_Evaluation.html Non verbal http://www.coping.org/dialogue/nonverbal.htm http://www.csupomona.edu/~tassi/gestures.htm http://www.fhsu.edu/~zhrepic/Teaching/GenEducation/nonverbcom/nonverbcom.htm
23