Designing Jewelry

DESIGNING JEWELRY with semiprecious beads

Stringing instructions and techniques for necklaces, bracelets, and much more

KIM GOVER

2 ABOUT BEADS

Amethyst

Typical colors: all kinds of purples ranging between lavender, rose, and magenta.

Lapis Lazuli

Typical colors: brilliant blue to denim color, with gold or silver colored specks.

Popular forms: round and faceted beads, chips, drop beads, and pendants in all shapes.

Popular forms: beads, cabachons, chips, rough-shaped nuggets, and pendants set in metal. Beads tend to be squared rather than round.

Relative cost: $$

Relative cost: $$$

Companions: silver, glass beads or other quartz crystals—rose quartz is a subtle pink hue.

Companions: set off by yellow-hued amber or citrine, looks equally good with bronze or copper colors.

THE FACTS

THE FACTS

Amethyst is from the quartz species of stones, which is the largest gemstone family, and one of the most widely used in jewelry making because of its affordable and beautiful appeal.

Lapis Lazuli is an intense opaque blue. It often contains small gold or silver mineral deposits, which run like veins through the stone.

Amethyst can be found in a variety of purple shades, from light lavender or rose to the intense deep Siberian amethyst, which reflects a magenta color. These deeper shades are often more expensive than the lighter ones.

The finest quality lapis has an even blue color without the mineral specks. It has the best depth of shade and is more expensive because of this. Lapis is commonly dyed to try and recreate the more pricey varieties. If you buy the more expensive types of lapis get it from a reputable dealer to avoid fakes.

Turquoise

Typical colors: traditionally sky blue; but turquoise comes in all kinds of blues through yellow greens, with a brown “matrix” of veins and patches. Popular forms: available in a range of forms—it’s relatively light in comparison to other stones, so quite large stones and pendants are popular too. Relative cost: $$ Companions: silver is a traditional partner, but gold can look striking. THE FACTS Watch out for reconstructed or treated turquoise which will be cheaper than original stones. It is a light stone, which makes it ideal for chunkier jewelry. Unfortunately this also means that it can crumble and mark easily, so if you are stringing, make knots between the beads. The color of turquoise can range from china blue and deep blue to blue-green, dark greeny blue and yellowish green.

Turquoise goes with all kinds of colors—yellow beads bring out the Amethyst is available in lots of pretty cutpendant shapes.

greener shades.

SEMIPRECIOUS STONES 3

Aquamarine

Typical colors: from sea green to sky blue; even some darker blues. Popular forms: rough and polished chips, round, squared, and faceted beads. Relative cost: $$ Companions: a darker blue or green will bring out the hues—try apatite or green chrysoprase. Aquamarine is popularly twinned with mother of pearl and silver. THE FACTS Aquamarine is closely related to emeralds. Aquamarine can be found in sparkling sea green, sky blue and dark blue. Sky blue and dark blue have become the most desirable (and the most costly option). It has become popular to heat treat the stone to give it a better color blue.

Amazonite

Typical colors: blue to blue-green. Popular forms: round beads, chips, and pebbles. Relative cost: $ Companions: set off well by smoky quartz colors, such as Cat’s eye. THE FACTS Amazonite is an attractive opaque stone that, due to the presence of lead, is either an irregular striped blue and white or a solid blue-green color. Amazonite can also occur in yellow, pink, red, and gray, but blue-green is the most popular and widely seen. The stone has a vitreous luster, but can also possess a lovely “silk” or sheen. It normally appears in bead form, as it can be sensitive to pressure.

Serpentine

Typical colors: blue-green to yellow-green. Popular forms: typically round beads; carved pendants are also common. Relative cost: $ Companions: set off well by smoky quartz colors, such as Cat’s eye. THE FACTS Serpentine, which is also commonly known as “new jade,” is a versatile stone. Commonly sold in a range of greens, it can include patches or markings of white, black, and yellow. The stone is called “serpentine” because of its color and markings, which resemble those found on snakes. It is said by mystics to help with emotional cleansing, psychic powers, and attract love and money. Despite being known as true jade's poor relation, the stone can stand alone as a pretty, affordable alternative.

Although less highly valued, gemstone chips can be used in bulk to great effect. Here, the amazonite chips are set on zigzag-shaped wire separated by “gimp” or bullion (see page 23).

BRACELETS 5

Black Onyx BEAD STORE

1 dark green handmade lampworked glass bead, approximately 12 x 10mm

Handmade lampworked beads, black onyx, Austrian crystals, and Hill Tribe silver


2 black onyx 4mm round beads  4 black onyx 8mm round beads  6 Swarovski crystal emerald

are the special ingredients in this lovely bracelet. It is a real classic and will never go out of fashion. Unusually with a piece using

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so much silver, it has been strung and is

6mm bicone beads

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balanced with just the right ratio of beads to silver to enhance the beauty of the beads.

 2 Hill Tribe silver curved tubes  4 Hill Tribe silver 8mm bead caps  4 Hill Tribe silver 6mm coiled beads  4 Sterling silver 3mm round beads

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You will also need: 1 Hill Tribe silver 11mm toggle clasp M Beading wire M 2mm sterling silver tube crimp beads and crimp covers

Classic with gemstones and silver BEAD STORE

You will also need: 1 12 mm silver toggle clasp M Approximately 10in. of Tiger Tail beading wire M 2 silver 2mm crimp beads M 2 silver 4mm crimp covers

12 8mm round gemstone beads
1 15mm silver lentil bead  2 4mm round beads  2 10mm hammered round rings  2 7mm silver beads  8 8mm silver bead caps  8 5mm silver daisy spacer beads

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Simple elegance, using just round gemstone beads and silver. The beauty of the gemstones is really being underlined in this design. The gemstones used include onyx, chrysoprane, golden jade, red garnet, and carnelian.

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6 THE DESIGNS

Sea theme BEAD STORE

20 green moss-quartz 8mm round beads
12 apatite 8mm round beads  6 white freshwater pearls, approximately 7mm  2 Hill Tribe silver 12mm shell beads  2 Hill Tribe silver shell charm  1 Hill Tribe silver starfish charm  1 large Hill Tribe silver shell pendant  35 sterling silver 2mm round beads You will also need: 4cm of sterling silver extension chain
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1 sterling silver 9mm trigger clasp
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Beading wire M
2mm sterling silver tube crimp beads and crimp covers

This necklace is a wonderful interpretation of the sea. Green moss-quartz and apatite beads have been combined with white freshwater pearls and Hill Tribe silver sea-life beads. A fantastic silver shell completes the design. There is a really good balance between gemstone beads and silver in this strung necklace. Besides from the sea-life silver beads, the gemstone beads have been separated by tiny sterling silver spacer beads. An extension chain with a silver shell charm has been added as an extra detail.

P END ANTS 7

Lapis Luzuli B EA D ST ORE

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22 lapis lazuli 7 x 10mm rectangular beads 8 blue goldstone 8mm round beads 16 gold filled 3mm round beads 14 gold vermeil 5mm flower spacer beads 1 blue goldstone and gold pendant, approximately 1 X 1¼in. (2.5 x 3cm)

You will also need: 1 gold vermeil 12mm toggle clasp l B eading wire gold filled tube crimp beads and crimp covers

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2mm

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This fascinating necklace has an air of ancient

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It has been created with lovely lapis lazuli rectangular B

beads and blue goldstone round beads—each bead separated by gold vermeil spacer beads and gold filled

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round beads. The wonderful blue goldstone and gold E

pendant, and the gold vermeil toggle clasp bring harmony to the finished necklace.

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DESIGNING JEWELRY with semiprecious beads

Discover how to string beautiful pieces using semiprecious stones: including quartz, turquoise, peridot, moonstone, amber, coral, and carnelian. Select the most beautiful stone beads, choosing just the right number and size to guarantee a harmoniously proportioned piece. Get inspired to make your unique combinations, learning which gemstones complement each other, which order to string them, and how to combine them with simple knots, sterling silver findings, crimp beads, spacers, or wire twists. Packed with over 90 examples from international bead artists, each example is “deconstructed” so you can see the exact type and quantity of bead that goes into its creation, and re-create it.

KIM GOVER runs her own lampworking studio and has been making her own jewelry for three years. Her favorite materials are semiprecious gemstones, teamed with sterling silver and crystals. She sells her work at craft fairs, private parties, and online.

Paperbound, 8¾ x 8¾, 128 pages 250 photographs ISBN 978-1-59668-104-0 $24.95 February 2009