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International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2006, 28, 69–71

Abstracts Abstracts of papers published in the IFSCC Magazine, Volume 8, No 3, 2005

Development of a Novel Oxidative Hair Color Based on a System with an Optimized Ratio of Higher Alcohol to Cationic Surfactant

Production of the Tissue Inhibitor of Metalloproteinase-2 (TIMP-2) and Evaluation of Its Potential as Anti-Aging Active

T. Yamashita, M. Ochiai, K. Shibata, M. Yasuda and A. Noda Shiseido Research Center, 2-2-1 Hayabuchi, Tsuzuki-ku, Yokohama 224-8558, Japan

R. Schu¨tz, B. Ko¨nig, B. Hochstrasser, P. Stolz and D. Imfeld Pentapharm Ltd, Department of Biotechnology, Engelgasse 109, CH-4002 Basel, Switzerland

Oxidative hair color, the most commonly used for coloring hair, is characterized by its bleaching effect. This effect enables dark hair to be dyed in various bright colors. In order to enhance this bleaching effect, the concentration of either the alkalizing or oxidizing agent in the hair color base is generally increased. However, this method causes chemical damage to the hair. With the aim of finding methods to obtain an improved bleaching effect without increasing the amount of bleaching ingredients, the authors investigated the permeation mechanism. Cationic bases showed the highest bleaching effect and allowed greater penetration, permitting bleaching ingredients to enter the cortex of the hair more easily and diffuse more quickly. In addition, the molar ratios of higher alcohol (A) to cationic surfactant (C) as a function of the bleaching effect were also evaluated. The results showed an optimum range for this A/C ratio. The smoothness of the hair was also evaluated, revealing an optimum range for the A/C ratio. Based on these findings, a product with an A/C ratio that maximizes the bleaching effect and the smoothness of the hair was successfully developed. Comparison of this newly developed product with a conventional product verified that the new product has a greater bleaching effect and gives a beautiful depth of color while maintaining the silky smoothness of the texture of the hair. Part of this study was presented at the 23rd IFSCC Congress 2004, Orlando, Florida USA.

Collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) show increased activities predominantly in UV-irradiated skin as well as in chronologically aged skin. MMPs are therefore reasoned to be associated with the degenerative alterations in the collagenous dermal extracellular matrix, which in turn may accelerate the signs of skin aging such as wrinkle formation and skin sagging. In normal physiological processes MMP activity is controlled by the endogenous tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases (TIMPs). Here we report the biotechnological production of the human-identical inhibitor TIMP-2 and its evaluation as an anti-aging active through attenuation of the degenerative MMP activity. The recombinant TIMP-2 polypeptide selectively inhibited MMPs in vitro which are involved in aging processes and showed efficient IC50 values in the low nanomolar range. Topical application of formulated TIMP-2 on skin explants with subsequent UVB irradiation (2-3 MED) resulted in an almost quantitative protection against collagen degradation. Thus, our biotechnological production of TIMP-2 leads to the active broad-spectrum MMP inhibitor that reduces excessive MMP activity and thereby preserves the structural integrity of collagen network. A poster of this work was presented at the 23rd IFSCC Congress 2004, Orlando, Florida, USA.

Ó 2006 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Socie´te´ Franc¸aise de Cosme´tologie

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Abstracts

Optical Properties of Skin Gloss and Development of a »Mizumizushii« Look Makeup Foundation H. Nishimura, Y. Takasukam and M. Yamamoto POLA Chemical Industries, Inc., 27-1 Takashimadai, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama 2210833 Japan In Japan, the term »mizumizushii« is used to describe a quality of »beauty«. We studied »apparently mizumizushii-looking skin« and tried to develop makeup products that »make the skin look mizumizushii« which is one of the characteristics of beauty. To accomplish this what constitutes »mizumizushii-looking skin« and »non mizumizushiilooking skin« first had to be defined. Hence, sensory evaluations were performed on 100 women. The results showed that these panelists could be classified into two groups: 25 women »having mizumizushii-looking skin« and 75 women »having skin without a mizumizushii look«. Further, it was revealed that the »skin without a mizumizushii look« could be classified into two groups, those with dry-looking skin and those with excessively oily-looking skin. We then succeeded in qualitatively classifying the appearance of the skin of these three groups on the basis of the difference in a value obtained for optical properties analyzed under specified conditions. Moreover, results of studies on possible qualitative classification of these groups using Z1, the newly discovered optical parameter for optical properties of the skin, showed an apparent relationship with the surface morphology (homogeneity on a micron scale). Based on the findings on the optical properties of »mizumizushii-looking skin«, we designed a makeup film imparting the »mizumizushii look«, which in turn led to the development a »mizumizushii look« makeup foundation.

N-Palmitoyl-4-Hydroxy-L-Proline Palmityl Ester: A Pseudoceramide that Provides Efficient Skin Barrier Repair and Protection G. Vielhaber, S. Lange, J. Ley and O. Koch Symrise GmbH & Co KG, D-37603 Holzminden, Germany Ceramides are the main constituents of the epidermal permeability barrier, and it has

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been demonstrated that the application of ceramide enriched creams promotes epidermal barrier repair. However, nature-identical ceramides are extremely expensive and difficult to formulate. We therefore developed a new pseudoceramide, N-palmitoyl-4hydroxy-l-proline palmityl ester (BIO391). Due to its low melting point of £60°C the pseudoceramide BIO391 can easily be incorporated into cosmetic formulations. In addition, it is very safe for use in cosmetics. The efficacy of the pseudoceramide BIO391 was investigated in vivo in a model for detergent-induced barrier disruption. Trans-epidermal water loss, redness, and skin hydration were recorded before and after barrier disruption as well as during the subsequent 9-day treatment with the test products. Barrier repair of skin treated with the pseudoceramide BIO391 was accomplished earlier than that of untreated and vehicle treated skin. Optimum barrier repair was achieved with 1.0% pseudoceramide BIO391 and optimum erythema reduction with 0.5% pseudoceramide BIO391. The optimum dosage could be reduced to 0.1% pseudo-ceramide by synergistic combination with 0.1% (-)-a-bisabolol. In addition, the pseudoceramide BIO391 proved to be as effective as nature-identical ceramides 2 and 3. In summary, N-palmitoyl-4-hydroxy-l-proline palmityl ester is a highly efficient barrier repair agent with efficacy equivalent to that of nature-identical ceramides, and it has excellent formulation properties.

Membrane Structured Solid Nanoparticles – A Novel Nanotechnology for Delivery of Cosmetic Active Ingredients G. H. Dahms Institute for Applied Colloid Technology, Koopmannstrasse 59A, D-47138 Duisburg, Germany Lipid nanoparticles have a structure similar to that of nanoemulsions. Their size ranges typically from 50 to 1000 nm. They differ from nanoemulsions in that the lipid core is a solid. The matrix consists of solid lipids or mixtures of lipids. Over the past years it has been demonstrated that solid lipid nanoparticles appear to be a promising drug carrier system for the future. Their

Ó 2006 International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 28, 69–71

Abstracts

occlusion properties reduce transepidermal water loss and can enhance penetration of active ingredients through the stratum corneum. As with all new technologies, some problems with the solid lipid nanoparticle technology need to be solved. One major problem is the homogeneous incorporation of amphiphilic active ingredients into the crystal matrix of the nanoparticles. Actives with an amphiphilic character like tocopherol or retinol cannot be kept homogeneously distributed in the wax structure during the emulsification process. Due to their hydrophilic head group they accumulate at the exterior layer of the nanoparticles together with the surfactant system used. Consequently, homogeneous release over time is not guaranteed and a burst release has to be expected. A second disadvantage is the manufacturing process. Solid lipid nanoparticles can be produced only under high pressure conditions. Also the concentration of the solid particles in the dispersion, which is added to an emulsion, is quite low. To overcome these problems membrane structured solid nanoparticles (MSSN) have been developed. These MSSN systems consist of liquid crystalline membrane systems with extremely low surfactant concentrations. The lateral movement of actives is controlled by amphiphilic solid actives such as ceramides and solid emollients. This guarantees maintenance of the advantageous properties of solid lipid nanoparticles such as retarded release of actives and their protection against chemical decomposition, but it also allows the homogeneous incorporation of amphiphilic actives. Membrane structured solid nanoparticles are produced using a continuous three-phase emulsification technique. This allows protection of heat-sensitive actives against decomposition. The concentration of nanoparticles in the MSSN dispersion can be kept higher than 60% (w/w). Even at these concentrations the nanodispersions keep their flow properties. As a result, they can be easily incorporated into the final formulation.

Ó 2006 International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 28, 69–71

A National Web-Based Survey of Sunscreen Products as a Tool for Industry Self-Regulation, Consumer Awareness Campaigns and Marketing B. Summers1, R. S. Summers1 and E. Muller2 1 Photobiology Laboratory, School of Pharmacy, Box 218, Medical University of Southern Africa, PO Medunsa 0204, South Africa (now Medunsa Campus, University of Limpopo) 2 SurveyIT, PO Box 179, Newlands, Pretoria 0049, South Africa The objective of the work was to test a webbased tool in the collection and presentation of data for our regular sunscreen surveys and to develop, test and conduct a web-based survey of sunscreen products, with instant data reporting. After the Photobiology Laboratory at MEDUNSA was approached by SurveyIT to pilot a new web-based data collection and reporting tool, companies were contacted via e-mail and invited to visit a secure web-based site to complete the provided questionnaire. Data collection and processing were greatly simplified by the new approach. The survey gleaned responses from 18 companies on 31 brands with a total of 110 primary sunscreen products. The data revealed a reduction in the number of companies marketing sunscreens in South Africa compared with the previous year, despite an increase in the volume of sunscreen sales. Ninety-eight percent of the products were claimed to be in vivo SPF tested. Fiftyseven percent of the products had undergone in vitro SPF testing for determination of their UVA protection. Fifty-one percent of the products were claimed to be water-resistant. Octyl methoxycinnamate was the most popular UV filter (88% of products), followed by benzophenone-3 (60%). Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane was in 52% of the products and surprisingly only 29% of the products contained titanium dioxide. The major conclusions are that the data collection tool was a success and that sunscreens are becoming more widely used and more thoroughly tested in South Africa.

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