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S-mount Re-counter: Triangle | Jiu-jitsu Techniques | Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu ...
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S-mount Re-counter: Triangle 14 November 2006 63 views No Comment The s-mount game gets another layer deep with this tutorial. We’re entering the world of counters, re-counters and combos. This tutorial could have been broken in two. The second half is how I finish all of my triangles from guard, but I thought I’d cover that too. So you should mentally apply this new knowledge to other triangle setups than the one shown below. Let’s get started.
I am going for the armbar from s-mount, which you should be familiar with by now.
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But before I can pass my leg over for the armbar, Trog sharply turns into me and drives his elbow to the floor, bringing it lower than my hips. This is a common armbar escape. With his elbow out, I have no chance at recovering the armbar. Once his elbow is out, I drop my hips on his arm and sit on it to trap it.
With my left arm, I swim my under their far arm and grab their elbow, with their wrist resting on the bend of my elbow (as in the arm crush). I am also leaning towards their far hip and posting on the mat for balance.
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Leaning like this, my left leg is light and free to move. I stretch it out over their head…
...then bend it behind and around their head, trapping their head and far arm in the circle of my legs. As I do this, I fall back and let them come up to their knees.
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I am now on my back and Trog is on his knees. I have his head and arm trapped in the circle of my legs, which is the start of the triangle, but at this point I am only crossing my ankles. I could just close my triangle all the way right now, but that’s just because I have long legs. So for all of you short legged suckers, here’s how I would have you continue. I also use this sequence when trying to triangle guys with really broad shoulders. I use my grip on the elbow to cross the arm.
Then I shove his arm all the way across with both hands.
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With his arm across, I reach up with my right hand and grab my shin.
DO NOT grab your foot or ankle on the outside. You can break your ankle and heelhook yourself by pulling out here. It will also give you less leverage to break their posture since your ankle bends and your shin does not.
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With a grip on my shin, I open my legs and step on their hip with my right foot. I keep my right knee squeezed tight to their shoulder so they cannot pull their elbow out that side. This simple grip on the shin is what I consider the most important point to do to prevent them from posturing out to escape. As you work to close the triangle, never uncross your ankles without grabbing your shin first, and likewise, never let go of your shin without crossing your ankles (or closing your triangle) first. You need to pull down on your shin to keep constant pressure on them and break their posture.
Now I reach inside their knee with my left hand. This is another point that I think everyone should do. You can use it to turn for a better finishing angle, you can use it to sweep them to a mounted triangle if they try to stack, and it prevents them from slamming you if they stand.
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Pushing on the hip with your right foot and pulling your head to their knee with your left arm, turn yourself perpendicular to them. You’ll know you’ve got a good angle when you can look in their ear.
Keep turning, stepping on the mat to help if you need to, until your calf is chopping on the back of his neck. You don’t want your leg on his back or shoulders at all if you can help it.
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With a great angle on the neck, I close my triangle, throwing the bend of my right knee over my left ankle.
To finish, I pull down on the head, thrust my hips up and away and stiffening my back (not pulling him into me and bending at the waist, which helps him stack—a detail I picked up from Dean Lister’s movie) and squeezing my knees. In my opinion, squeezing the knees is the most important detail to finishing the triangle that most people miss. Whenever I hear someone complain about how hard they have to fight to finish what seems to be a good triangle or say that the choke is a “slow one”, I ask them to show me how they do it and they usually pull down on the head and lift their hips really hard, but not squeeze their knees. Once I add that detail, it becomes a very fast choke. Added bonus!
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Here’s a little variation I’ve been doing that turns this into an triangle-armbar combo.
When I go to underhook their leg…
...I make sure I reach over their arm, trapping it in my armpit.
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Now when I lift my hips, they get to enjoy an armlock too. Yes, I’m aware that my triangle isn’t closed tight in many of these finishing photos. I didn’t feel like making Trog suffer any more than needed. God, I’m awesome.
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S-mount Triangle + Troubleshooting + Armbar 14 November 2006 64 views No Comment The triangle is the second major attack I use from s-mount. Here is one way of getting it that works off the same grip as I use to take the armbar.
I am trapping the near arm for the armbar (hugging my hip, elbow to elbow), and Trog is defending like always. With my right hand, I grab his far wrist and shove it down and away from me.
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As I push his arm down, I throw my right leg over the arm.
I bring my right leg towards his head, trying to get my calf on his neck and my foot behind his head.
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I lean towards his far hip, posting on the mat for balance. I base on my right knee as I bring my leg deeper around his head and neck.
I triangle my legs and come back to center for a mounted triangle. Now for some troubleshooting. An opponent who is wise to the triangle will often try to defend it by not letting the leg pass over their far arm.
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Here we see me going for the triangle but Trog is holding his wrist and trying to keep his far arm inside so I can’t get the triangle.
I wedge my right hand in the exposed bend of his elbow.
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I drive my arm through as deeply as I can.
I remove the arm completely by prying it out by pulling their arm and opening my elbow. From here, just continue with the triangle like usual. That’s not all the trouble we’ll get though. Another common defense is to try to do a backdoor escape as the leg passes over. Here is a re-counter that picked up from David Camarillo’s new book, as well as Jean-Jacques Five Favorite Finishes video (though he does it from guard).
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As I go for the triangle, Trog grabs my leg with his outside arm and tries to shove it over his head as he scoots out the back.
I keep my hold on his near arm so he doesn’t pull out all the way. My right leg comes to the near side of his head.
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I throw my left leg over their head.
And fall back to finish a very tight armbar. Hooha.
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S-mount Far Arm Attacks 14 November 2006 67 views No Comment While the armbar on the near arm is the primary attack from s-mount, I have several ways of dealing with the far arm too. I use these to backup my armbar attempt, since they can counter defensive grips and set me up to take the arm. Even if they fail, you rarely lose position for attempting them. The trigger for each of the three armlocks below is the direction their arm is point. One if it’s up, one if it’s down and the last if it’s in between. First, the americana.
I have s-mount. I am reaching behind their head to hold my ankle and cinch the position tighter. I am posting with my right hand on the mat by their hips and my foot is somewhat behind me for balance. My chest leaning over them so I stay tight. My weight is low so I am harder to roll over.
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I see their far arm is by their face, so I grab the wrist with my left hand and push it down.
I reach behind their upper arm and grab my own wrist, figure-fouring my arms. I can crank it from here to finish it without driving their arm to the ground. This is a very harsh submission so be careful with it. Oh, and no thumbs. Monkey grip. To show how you can use an attack on the far arm to setup an armbar on the near one, let’s say they defend the americana.
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They try to escape by turning away and driving their elbow to the mat.
I release the americana and hook their near arm (grab my hip, elbow to elbow) and lean towards their far hip, posting on the mat for balance.
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Then I pass my left leg over the head.
And sit back in spider web, crossing my ankles and hugging the near knee. All of this (the armbar and spider web) were covered in the first tutorial. Now the kimura.
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I have s-mount and Trog is trying to create some space under my leg so he can elbow escape and bring his knee in.
I grab his wrist with my right hand.
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I push his hand down to the mat and to my left, trying to get his elbow to make a 90 degree angle, as I reach under his arm with my left hand.
I figure-four my arms for the kimura. To finish, I lean forward and base with my right elbow on the mat as I turn towards his head and crank the arm. Again, no thumbs. Lastly, the arm crush.
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I have s-mount and Trog’s arms are more or less in the middle, not pointing up or down as in the last two bent arm locks.
I thread my right arm between his forearms and grab his far elbow. It’s important that I swim my arm into place in such a way that he wrist is resting on top of my elbow.
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I pull the elbow to me, straightening his arm and turning towards me.
I keep pulling the arm, lifting it by levering my elbow up, until it is on my shoulder. I lean into it and tilt my head to trap their wrist on my shoulder like I’m holding a phone without my hands.
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To finish, I get his elbow in the crook of mine, then I grab my opposite elbows. I lean towards his far hip as I hug his arm to my chest and arch my back. Make sure you the pressure stays on their elbow and doesn’t slide up and down their arm. The power of this armlock should come from your back and shoulders and your body weight leaning into the arm, not just your arms squeezing theirs. Believe it or not, you can use this arm crush as a grip break to the armbar defense I showed in the first tutorial. Give it a try.
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S-mount Basics + Armbar + Grip Break 14 November 2006 544 views One Comment Last night, for no reason at all, I was struck with the urge to put together tutorial on how I do mount without the gi. So that’s what I did. My best game from mount is all built on the s-mount, which is where one of my legs is pointing up towards their head, making an S out of my legs. I have seen very little information on s-mount online, in books and in DVDs, so I figured I’d show what I’ve come up with so far. Below is how I setup the s-mount, how I take the armbar from it and a bonus armbar defense grip breaker. So this is really a three-in-one tutorial. I’m flexible enough to just jump into this s-mount much preparation, but for best results and less strain, you’ll want to start like this:
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I’ve got mount with both hands posting on the mat above his head for base.
I slide my left knee up, driving it under his arm. I was doing this slowly until Leo Kirby showed me how Marcelo taught him to just force the knee forward with battering ram speed.
Once my knee is up by his head, I swing my other leg around…
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...and fold it under his far armpit, so it’s point up towards his head. Be careful when you do this movement that you don’t give him space to elbow escape and bring his knee in. I stay tight and heavy with my thigh on his body and make the smallest circle with my foot possible.
After driving my knee up and folding my other leg, I should be sitting with my hips behind his shoulder, with his elbows being forced to his chest.
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I keep turning and driving my knee up until their head is resting on my thigh. My rear foot is somewhat behind me and I’m posting with my right hand on the far side of their hips for base. I am leaning forward with my chest low so my weight remains on them and I’m less likely to fall backwards or forwards. Maybe you need long arms and legs like me, but I’ll reach behind their head and grab my ankle. This puts pressure on the head and pulls my leg in tighter.
I can also grab the far knee and hug it to take away their bridging power. This is s-mount, the base of operations from which all attacks will be launched.
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But no, you won’t be happy if I end here. Where’s the submissions? What about the buku big attacks? Well, here’s an armbar for you. You may have noticed that Trog was already doing a RNC grip to defend the impending armbar. This is where we pick up.
I thread my left hand through his arms. I reach until I can grab my right hip and we are elbow to elbow.
I lean forward and to my right, towards his far hip. This puts a lot of weight on his chest and makes my left leg light and free to move.
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While leaning towards his far hip, I pass my left leg over his head.
I sit back and cross my ankles. I go right over left so the top one is holding my leg across their face. I’ve seen a lot of arguments over whether or not to cross the ankles when doing armbars, so I’ll explain why I cross them now. If my feet are under their far arm, I’ll cross my ankles to lock the shoulder in place. I will not cross my ankles otherwise since it wouldn’t lock their upper body and instead makes my legs a single unit which is easier to throw off when doing escapes.
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I switch from hugging the far leg to the near one. This is the position that Eddie Bravo calls the spider web. If you have his book, he goes over it in great detail and has a lot of great grip breaks he does to get the armbar or alternate submissions and transitions to other positions like taking the back. Eddie does such a good job of addressing this position that I actually thought I might just end this here, saying to check his book if you have any questions on how to proceed. I use mostly his material from here, like the slide grip break and switching to the triangle, and I didn’t feel like just copying out of his book for my tutorial. But I decided I should follow through and try to offer something new. So here is a grip break that I haven’t seen covered anywhere else yet.
I am sitting with spider web. My right arm is holding their knee and my left arm is hugging their near arm
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(elbow-to-elbow, grabbing my hip). Here’s some advice that was given to me that really helped me learn to overcome armbar defenses: Stop and examine the grip, then figure out a smart way to break. You should be in control and have the time to inspect it and figure out a good solution. Everyone runs into the problem of people defending the almost-on armbar. Some just jerk on the arm and kick the far arm and hope it’ll all just fly open. And this works, but I think you can find more intelligent ways to open them up. So let’s take a look—how is Trog defending the armbar? He is making the RNC grip even stronger by grabbing both elbows. I don’t have room to step on his biceps even if I tried, and jerking on the arm won’t do much against this. Here’s how I unlock this.
I wedge my right hand between his forearms…
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...and reach through until I’ve trapped the wrist of the arm I want to attack in the crock of my elbow.
I take my left arm out and grab his hand. And yes, hold the hand itself, not just the wrist. You need control over which direction the thumb is pointing for the next step.
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In one big, quick motion, lean to the side their head is on…
...then swing out and fall back, pulling their arm free…
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...and continuing the same motion, swing back to center and finish the armbar. You need to be very wary of them doing the hitch hiker escape when you use this grip break. That is where they point their thumb over their head (like they’re a hitch hiker), bend their arm and then spin out of the armbar and come to their knees. This is where your grip on the hand is important. You use it to counter the escape by turning their thumb back towards their hips, away from the direction you swing out. This turns their arm so they can’t bend their elbow and do the escape. Be careful when doing his grip break since the swinging motion can catch the elbow at odd angles, especially if you’re turning their hand and they try to hitch hiker. I recommend you drill how to take s-mount and the armbar that I’ve shown here to get started. The rest of this series builds on these.
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OldDog53 said: Since I’m getting sat upon and shat upon by an S-mounting mofo I thought I’d look up your S-mount materials. Hopefully I will find some defenses as I work my way through your tutorials. # 31 July 2007 at 12:21 pm
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Omoplatarmbar from Rubber Guard 13 November 2006 195 views No Comment The second technique I took photos of today was a move I thought I developed. But I didn’t. I “made it up” one day and was further convinced of my genius, but later realized that I’d seen it in Nino Schembri’s omoplata instructional and forgotten it, until it subconsciously resurfaced while I was rolling. Nevertheless, I’ve taken it and infused it with the rubber guard I picked up at Eddie’s seminar, which is what I present to you today. Notice that I don’t use any gi grips, so don’t cry for a no-gi version just because my dummy is wearing a gi. My training partner is Jon, who was awarded his blue belt just yesterday.
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Jon is in my closed guard with good posture (head up, back straight, hands on my chest).
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I open my guard and put my feet on the floor, scooting back as I sit up and gable grip behind his head.
I fall back, pulling him down to break his posture. My right foot goes to his hip, and if I can’t step on his hip, I know I’m too close and need to scoot higher. I need to be able to push his hip away to keep from being stacked.
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Now and throughout this and all rubber guard moves, keep constant pressure with your legs, squeezing your knees, curling your legs. This will prevent them from pushing your legs down and driving a knee through your guard. Notice how he put his hands on my chest. If he just posted on the floor I’d skip ahead and go straight to overhooking and New York.
I bring my left foot high on his back and hook under it with my right wrist for mission control. Notice that I am not using the fingers or even the palm of my hand, but the actual wrist. Squeeze knees, leg curls.
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My left fist comes under his right elbow and punches up through the inside.
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I zombie my hand to the sky, which puts his arm on the ground and in my armpit so I can overhook it.
With his arm overhooked, I hug around my knee and grab my shin for New York. Squeeze knees, leg curls.
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I let go of mission control with my right hand and do a big circular karate block over his head, bringing my arm down on the other side of his head.
I regrip my shin with my wrist for what is called chill dog. Why? Because by now they know you want the omoplata and will try to hug your leg to stop you from turning out for it, so you need to “chill, dog” and wait for it.
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Not content to chill, I pull my foot in front of Jon’s face.
Time for the kung fu move, which may be hard to understand from photos since it’s a seemingly minor movement but one that Eddie is very adamant about being done precisely. Without taking my hand off my shin, I lift my elbow and circle my forearm behind my foot.
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As it comes around, I straighten my foot and bring my palm to the other side of my shin.
With my hand now on the other side of my ankle, I push it, forcing his head away and turning my so I can enter the omoplata.
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But as I’m turning out for the omoplata, Jon grabs my knee and presses it to the ground, trying to stop me and probably start bringing his knee through my guard.
I reach out and grab his elbow.
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I yank his elbow to me as I kick my leg straight, breaking his grip off my knee.
With his arm pulled to me, I triangle my legs around it and the arm in the omoplata.
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Both hands grab his wrist and make sure his thumb is pointing up as I pull his arm down and arch my hips to submit him with an armbar. Or an omoplatarmbar, as it were. If he managed to pull his elbow out of the armbar, I can just go back to the omoplata. Enjoy.
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Free TuneUp Utilities 2008 April 14, 2009 by maseko TuneUp Utilities merupakan salah satu software komersial untuk Windows yang dapat digunakan untuk berbagai fungsi seperti meningkatkan performance, pembersihan hardisk, mengelola dan mengatur berbagai fungsi pada Windows, dan juga beberapa tool tambahan. Melalui salah satu halaman webnya, Chip.de berbagi akses download TuneUP Utilities 2008 beserta lisence key-nya yang dikemas dalam sebuah file zip. Sayangnya, paket download installer TuneUp Utilities 2008 tersebut, seperti halnya halaman web yang menginformasikannya, juga menggunakan bahasa Jerman. Untungnya lisence key yang diberikan di dalamnya tetap dapat digunakan untuk TuneUp Utilities 2008 yang didownload langsung dari website TuneUp dengan interface Bahasa Inggris. Jika memang tertarik untuk menggunakan TuneUp Utilities 2008 tersebut, Anda dapat langsung mendownload installernyanya dari website Tune-Up yang menggunakan interface Bahasa Inggris melalui alamat ini. Lakukan instalasi, dan pada saat pertama kali menjalankan akan Anda temui pilihan versi Trial atau full version yang memerlukan product key. Disinilah, Anda dapat menggunakan product key yang diberikan Chip.de, yaitu: RFEAH-CDXKX-UMFBW-GSCES-YFWCM-WUHWB. Pada penggunaan selanjutnya, TuneUP Utilities 2008 tersebut sudah teregistrasi secara penuh. Posted in Free Stuff, Software
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40 Responses to “Free TuneUp Utilities 2008”
#1
Dee Tree said on April 14, 2009, 12:06 pm: Terimakasih infonya mas,saya pertama ya?
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#2
rojali said on April 14, 2009, 12:18 pm: mulai produktif lagi nih trims infonya.
#3
JagoanNeon said on April 14, 2009, 12:24 pm: Thanks info nya bro … wah mulai idup lagi nech … asik asik ,,, keep posting yeach ,,,
#4
didin said on April 14, 2009, 12:38 pm: wah…ini Genuine ya mas… saya cobain ah…
#5
echa bintang timur said on April 14, 2009, 12:55 pm: mantap,…… original man….
#6
Dee Tree said on April 14, 2009, 12:59 pm: Sudah saya coba,success mas
#7
jangan buang said on April 14, 2009, 1:32 pm: wah gratis dan ori neh thanks infonya
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#8
fachru said on April 14, 2009, 2:24 pm: enak nih, dah gratis full feature lagi, banyak gunanya lagi nih TU
#9
Ali said on April 14, 2009, 2:45 pm: sekarang kan sudah tahun 2009,, kenapa gak pake yang tahun ini aja bang,, apa ada kelebihan lain antara 2008 dengan 2009?.. boleh saya tahu dimana dan bagaimana kah kelebihannya itu? ;D maseko: alasan versi mana yang diberikan, saya tidak tahu, tapi beberapa software lain juga begitu, membebaskan versi lama sampai pengguna terpikat dan membeli yang versi baru.
#10
Acez Crewz said on April 14, 2009, 3:14 pm: Wew… Ternyata baru setelah Tune Up 2009 Keluar, Tune Up 2008 di bagi - bagikan gratis. Atau apa mungkin license keynya bisa dipakai buat yang 2009? Btw, Ini legal kan? maseko: saya belum mencoba product key tersebut untuk yang TU2009
#11
Michael said on April 14, 2009, 3:31 pm: wah hebat jadi tune up utilites 2008 ini legalkan mas syukur jadi gak perlu cari-cari software gratisan lagi
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#12
Dels said on April 14, 2009, 3:39 pm: biasanya lisensi software dibagi2in di akhir quartal (misal April, yg merupakan awal quartal ke-2). . tapi entah software apakah itu… gw sih biasa cek di blognya Lifehacker atau Ghack soal infonya. . Btw buat yg serius hunting license software komersil, kunjungi : http://www.giveawayoftheday.com/ disini disediain license utk 1 software komersil setiap harinya
#13
Si kumb@ng said on April 14, 2009, 3:46 pm: sama yang 2007, bagus yang mana mas ? maseko: kalau tambahan fitur itu sudah pasti dan umunya ada berbagai perbaikan.
#14
http://lowpriceoke.blogspot.com/ said on April 14, 2009, 4:24 pm: kalo kerusakan filenya ga seberapa pake tune up ga ngaruh…
#15
Windu said on April 14, 2009, 7:32 pm: Hmm ada juga yang berbaik hati untuk memberikan SN-nya.
#16
Vai said on April 14, 2009, 8:49 pm: Waaww, itu serial code yg legal bukan ya? :/ tapi tool ini berguna banget, dulu pnah dikasih ama tmn sy great post ^^ Btw, ini pak eko teladan itu?
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#17
monk-q said on April 14, 2009, 10:01 pm: TuneUp Utilities 2009 bukannya dah lama ada … knpa msti pke yang 2008 … ??
#18
Aldi said on April 15, 2009, 12:31 am: Saya sudah pake TU2009.. lumayan oke programnya.. simpel..
#19
jojo said on April 17, 2009, 12:24 am: wah mas saya pernah pakai TU baik v2009 & v2008, beberapa kali saya mengalami kjadian yg sama, yaitu windows saya sering hAng. sehingga saya musti reInstal berkali-kali apakah ini akibat dari pemakaian TU? terus terang saya msh belum yakin ini akibat dari TU, karena pentingnya software ini maka mohon infonya Mas, thanks;)
#20
Om Dadang said on April 18, 2009, 7:59 pm: oke juga tuh,cuman terkadang bikin hang,ada solusi.saya pake P 4 2,4 GB,Ram 512 MB
#21
Download Gratis said on April 19, 2009, 4:19 pm: wah mas uda jaman’a TU2009 sekarang mah.. saya juga pake itu… kalo mau download silahkan masuk link saya… GRATIS..
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#22
Harry M said on April 19, 2009, 11:21 pm: Thanks berat MasEko, ini bener2 yang saya butuhkan…
#23
jenggot said on April 20, 2009, 1:32 am: Halo… lam kenal mas Setahu saya download dari official websitenya (versi inggris) dah gak bisa lagi menggunakan license dari chip.de Tapi ada cara lain yaitu dengan menghapus file resourcesnya (biasanya ada di C:\Program Files\Visagesoft \eXPert PDF\Resources). Boleh kunjungi http://for-free-on-internet.com/2009/04/expert-pdf-5professional-and-tuneup-utilities-2008-easter-gifts-from-chipde/ tuk keterangan lebih lanjut…
#24
jenggot said on April 20, 2009, 2:44 am: Duh maap… Cara lain dari komen saya sebelumnya itu untuk software lain (expert PDF 5 Pro). Sekali lagi maaf ya…
#25
Masbolet said on April 21, 2009, 9:31 am: Waduh . Mkch bngt neh . Ternyata versi register ampuh juga, he he he . Masbolet.blogspot.com
#26
Jasa Pasang Iklan said on April 21, 2009, 3:52 pm: Wah…Thanks atas Informasinya..Saya dari dulu memang perlu Tune Up Software…Sengaja ndak pake yang 2009 punya…Takut di detectsi ama Empunya…Mending pake yang 2008 aja…Ok…Sukses
#27
parulian said on April 21, 2009, 9:46 pm: 08/06/2009 14:40
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thanks ya, gua senang bngat tuh dah dapat key nya tune up, tambahan mas, tune up 2008 yang versi inggris juga bisa make key nya, terbukti sama tune up ku sukses mas. dah fully. klo ada key nya 1-abc Hard drive Washer 3.00 juga mas, lumayan bagus tuh buat ngebersihin sampah di hardisk. ntar kirim ke emailku ya mas. makasi banyak ya mas. sukses selalu.
#28
akhyar said on April 23, 2009, 5:13 pm: bro,,taskbar gw ilang,,dihidden ma si virus..jd startnya kgak ada..gmn y cranya??>
#29
wildan said on April 25, 2009, 11:39 pm: thanks banget, dah 3 hari nyari yang bener2 free kok susah banget. gak sengaja nyasar kesini malah dapat rejeki. matur nuwun
#30
agus said on April 26, 2009, 1:30 pm: thanks mas setelah menunggu lama maseko nggak ngeblog akhirnya ngeblog lagi dan bagi2 ilmu selalu upahmu besar di surga
#31
Vendy said on April 26, 2009, 8:11 pm: Thank TU Nya aq Punya Maslah Port USB NIh. Port Aq tiba2 tidak detect semua mulaidariPortPrinter,Mouse dan Semua Deh Setelah TakColokin Hd Portabel 3,5″ yang tidakpake casing next aq ganti pake PCI Usb. Tapi tetap aja untuk Hd portable aq tidak deteksi cuman muncul Drive Aja Tanpa Labelkalau di klik Hang. Gmana solusinya Thank Berat Bagi Rekan-rekanyang BISA
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#32
micio said on April 27, 2009, 9:18 am: bisa untuk perbaiki os ya?
#33
Eko said on April 30, 2009, 1:39 pm: Mas, salam kenal… mas aku mau tanya bagaimana sih caranya ngeblok website ? Thanks, EKo
#34
maul said on May 1, 2009, 7:29 pm: StepByStep : 1. Instal Tune Up Utilities 2008 cara instalnya sama Aja, Tinggal Next Terus…wkwkwkw 2. Setelah di Instal Buka C:PROGRAMFILESTUNEUPUTILITIES2008 disitu Letak semua Programnya 1. Integrator.Exe 2. SystemOptimizer 3. dan yang lainnya…wkwkwkwk 3. Coba Jalankan File Integrator.exe Clink…Akan muncul Window..Menunjukkan Program Trial 4. Sekarang Tutup Aplikasi Integrator.exe, Terus Ganti namanya Menjadi Integrator.exe jadi Integrator1.exe 5. Jalankan dan Lihat…Clinkkkk Gak Nunjukkin Window Trialnya Lagi. 6. Silahkan Lakukan Cara yang sama Untuk System Optimezer dan yang Lainnya. —————————————————— M..mm.. Entah ini pantas dinamakan cracking atau tidak tapi itu tak masalahlah.. yg jelas.. selamat menikmati software ini. “Ingat kalo memang mampu alias punya duit beli yg lisensinya karena bisa
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menyelamatkan kehidupan programmernya. Tapi kalo Programmernya kira-kira dah kaya kau lihat… udah crack aja kekekek “
#35
luthfie fadhillah said on May 3, 2009, 11:52 am: nice informasion veryververy helpful… Sucsess yoo..
#36
jie said on May 5, 2009, 3:32 pm: wahh thanks ya bossss
#37
joko said on May 20, 2009, 9:58 am: thanks for mr maul, its tips also worked on tu utilities 2009 its very useful thanks again mr maul
#38
yukam said on May 27, 2009, 6:51 am: Waduh, Thanks banget Boss,ternyata yang gue cari selama ini ada disini,sukses Boss.
#39
pangeran Kesepian said on May 27, 2009, 11:56 pm: mantap dah…. gue ckg udh pny Tune Up 2008 mksh bro….. qlo ada yg 2009…jgn lupa bagi2 ya…hehheehe
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heri said on May 29, 2009, 12:41 am: thanks yah Om…
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Lazy London and the Gi-dependant Rubber Guard 13 November 2006 123 views No Comment Today, before pulling up and cleaning all the mats in the entire school, I took some photos of two techniques I wanted to share. My training partner in these is Jon, who was awarded his blue belt just the day before. The first of these is a triangle setup that uses what I’m calling the Lazy Man’s London or the Know-gi Rubber Guard.
From closed guard, cross grip the sleeve and hold the wrist. I’m using a pistol grip since I don’t like my fingers turning into claws when they break the grip.
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They get to one foot as they go to stand. As they start to get to their second foot, they will be momentarily off balance. Quickly do a crunch and bring your knees to your head (without opening your guard) so they fall forward.
As they fall forward, pull their arm over your head. Your other hand reaches up through the middle and overhooks their arm.
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Bring your leg up and reach behind your knee. Keep pulling with your other hand over your head.
With the hand behind your leg, grab the back of their collar. This grip acts like London and lets you easily keep an overhook on their arm.
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To show how secure this grip is, I had Jon try to stand and lift me while I open my guard and hold on with nothing but my hand on the collar.
Back on the ground, I’ve let go of the sleeve and grabbed the wrist of their free arm instead. I’ve brought my knee up towards my chest and I’m using my shin to push his arm away.
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I can bring my foot up and step on his biceps to keep pushing his arm away.
I clear his arm and bring my leg up over his shoulder, closing my guard around his head and trapped arm. You can let go off your grips now and pull your shin to close the triangle tighter.
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Grab his wrist with both hands and lift your hips so you can…
...cross his arm to the other side.
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Reach inside his leg and pull your head to his knee, turning you perpendicular to him. This gives you a better angle and contact with just his neck. Lift your hips, pull the head and squeeze your knees to finish.
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Triangle Push-up Sweep 13 November 2006 109 views 2 Comments This is a simple move I’ve been using a lot lately. It came to me while I was doing passing the guard drilling and kept getting triangles. Everyone was doing the escape where they drive my knee to the mat but I didn’t really feel like fighting too hard to finish the triangle like this, so I just made this move. It has worked well on everyone ever since. It can be used as a re-counter or as a sweep in itself. Or maybe it’s a re-counter that is a sweep. Either way, I’ll start by showing it as a re-counter to their triangle escape attempt.
Shazam! I’ve got a triangle.
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They grab my kneecap with both hands and drive it to the ground. They’re going to try to escape by sprawling into me and posturing towards where my legs are crossed while pulling my knee down. If done right, this will force my triangle open. So before they can do all that, I start doing my re-counter.
Keeping my triangle closed tightly, I twist and try to go belly down and put my chest on the mat.
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As soon as I’ve twisted, I do push-up…
...and walk backwards on my hands…
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...ending in a mounted triangle. But not everyone will go to down so easily. Especially so if I go for this move as a sweep without them trying the above escape (so they’re in a fairly normal posture). They may try to posture and post on the mat with their outside hand to base and defend the sweep. My solution?
I just do an even bigger push-up and keep walking backwards on my hands. Fancy!
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I keep doing this, pushing up and driving my hips into them, trying to bring my hips higher than their posture, until they’re unable to resist the sweep. You can see in the photo how his arm is no longer posting in a way that prevents him from falling over.
So over he goes. And if that wasn’t enough awesomeness for you, I’ll throw this in, free of charge:
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Since I sometimes have trouble applying good finishing pressure with the triangle from mount, I’ll grab an americana on the trapped arm. Good times.
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KeithM said: since you reviewed the essential guard, i assume you own it. turn to page 184, technique 82. this is what i use in this situation(not the same entry)... but i do like the idea of sweeping to mount…i think i’m gonna play with your tech. thanks a bunch. # 11 December 2006 at 8:45 pm
codemonkey76 said: “Good times”, classic aesopian!!! # 9 January 2007 at 11:18 pm
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LDHG/DHG in Photos 11 May 2008 318 views 5 Comments Before I shot video, I took these photos of the basic long distance and deep half guard sweep that I use. This is the same one that I show in the first video.
Basic long distance half guard posture. Knee in the hip to maintain space and turn my on my side. Ankles crossed, left over right. Left hand on the shoulder, forearm framing the neck. Right hand controlling the far arm at the wrist or biceps. He cannot underhook me when my arm is framing his neck. He also can’t overhook for the brabo. I can use the knee to make space and choose when I want to dive for the underhook. The right hand keeps the crossface away. If he tries to drive in while sprawling his leg, I push off on his neck and pull my feet towards my butt to
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keep his leg trapped.
If he is particularly intent on crossfacing, I can go to the double paw and protect my face.
When I feel I have good control of the far arm, I slide my right hand to the wrist and reach over the arm with my left for the kimura. If I wanted to finish the kimura, I’d hug his arm to my chest and shrimp my hips under him and work from there.
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But he’s smart and postures up and straightens his arm and rips it out, but because he’s posturing and freeing his arm, the threat of the crossface is gone and he’s giving me access to his far knee.
I immediately dive under the leg with my right hand, bring my head to the thigh and gable grip my hands together.
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My knee is still on his hip to carry his weight. I’m trying to bring my elbow and knee together to create a frame against him.
Elbow and knee touching. Also notice how I have my feet crossed. The simple detail of my left being over my right makes a huge difference in terms of how strongly I can hold him in my half guard.
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My left arm becomes a shield to cover my head and hide my face so he can’t crossface. He’ll just slide off the top of my head.
I scoot my hips underneath him and try to throw his weight to his front. Notice how this puts his weight on his hands, making it hard for him to reach back and crossface. My elbow and knee are still touching, and my elbow is now jamming into his ribs/stomach to keep his weight off.
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I may need to open my ankles now as I rock him over me so my knee can carry his weight.
Notice how I’m spreading his legs to disrupt his base as I pull his leg on my shoulder and scoot underneath him.
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My hips keep going under him by shrimping and bumping my shoulder under his leg and throwing my right elbow to my left.
My right knee slides in under his thigh and keeps his hips up.
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I stretch him away with my right knee under his thigh. My left leg comes up and steps on the inside of his knee/thigh and pushes too. This puts his weight off of me and on to his far knee. It also creates space for me to get on my left elbow. The grip on the kneecap is important. It’s a strong grip that prevents him from kicking his leg out and run out of the sweep.
You can clearly see how my right knee/shin is creating space and where my left foot is going against his knee.
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Stretch my left leg to kick his leg away and scoot my hips out. Now I’m carrying almost none of his weight and have plenty of room to get all the way up on my hand. My right leg is stepping on the mat now in preparation for a technical stand-up. The sweep from here is easy. Just stand up or come to your knees and move towards him.
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codemonkey76 said: I was practicing this before class last week and my instructor was watching and then for the technique in class he decides to show us a counter to the guy trying a kimura from bottom half-guard. The top man, steps his free leg over his arm to protect it and then sits his left hip on the ground (assuming same positioning as in these photos) and then grips his own hand palm to palm and leans into the bottom mans shoulder and lifts, it applies a kimura to the bottom man. Needless to say i couldn’t use this entry for DHG lately… i have to wait until some people forget this kimura counter # 12 May 2008 at 5:15 pm
featherweight said: codemonkey im having trouble picturing that… any pics / videos? # 23 May 2008 at 4:30 am
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Blister said: Featherweight—you can see a vid of this kimura counter by looking at a snippet of volume 6:Counter Attacks of the Demian Maia instructional video found here: http://www.groundfighter.com/details/prodid/243.html # 27 May 2008 at 7:50 pm
featherweight said: thank you very much Blister. maia’s english is funny, “look. look, move so people can see. look.” i’ve seen a similar counter, people at my gym just lock their hands together and posture up hard, twists your arm really bad. this is better. # 28 May 2008 at 1:56 am
Balanced said: Thanks for laying this sweep out for us. I’ve seen it used a lot and I think it will go nicely with my game as well. I’ve developed a more defensive half guard (not a good thing) by using the knee in the chest just to keep from getting my guard passed, and I think this move will help me get on the offensive. # 21 June 2008 at 5:05 pm
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Marcio’s Back Control 13 November 2006 151 views No Comment My instructor gave me a great addition to the monkey feet game from rear mount. He saw me doing my monkey business on the back and showed me another way to lock them down without having both hooks in. He said that Marcio Feitosa does this as a signature way of keeping the back. It goes like this:
I am on their back with the harness, they’re turn on their choking side, choking-side hook is in, yadda yadda yadda. My top hook is free to do its monkeying and my bottom hook is in really deep. Fearing I’ll put my second hook in, Trog is bringing his knee up to block it out. I could go to trap his arm or get the reverse half guard like Marcelo does.
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Or I can do Marcio’s position. I bring my bottom hook up behind their thigh and my top leg over their hips and thigh, then cross my ankles. Opposite angle:
Holding them like this, I’ve trapped their leg and locked myself to their hips. This completely kills their ability to bridge or roll to the escaping side. I was playing around with this and comparing it to the reverse half guard and I think I’ll enjoy using this a lot more. It completely kills their hips movement. I should be charging for all this awesomemess.
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Jeff’s Half Guard Sweeps 13 July 2007 691 views 3 Comments Back in the days of MMALibrary.com, Jeff Rockwell had put up a series of half guard sweeps. He taught starting from a sitting guard and diving in deep as a counter to combat base. I’ve used my internet sleuthing to recover them so I could add them to my notes here. I’m currently focusing on half guard and want to work on these. It’s all Jeff below:
Sweep #1 I got the first of these from watching Shaolin Ribero and the last two from watching the Noguiera brothers in the last Pride. When you put them all together, it is a formidable series of sweeps and reversals, I’ve been having a lot of success with them recently. While the main place I’ve been applying them is vs. Combat Base (knee up inside guard), there are LOTS of places to aquire this position from, ie. escaping mount, escaping quarter mount, escaping backmount, etc.
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Alright, here I am facing an opponent who has taken a “Combat Base” posture (knee up inside my guard), to defend against standard attacks. As you can see, I am sitting up, not laying flat on my back, and my right hand is on the ground for base. My left hand checks his shoulder to moniter his movement. In this picture, there is a lot of space between his knee and his butt for me to work with; however, even if there is only a few inches of space, I have still found this entry to work.
My right leg is going to shoot inside the space between his right leg and his butt. Sometimes I will momentarily grab his right leg with my left hand to hold it in place. Here I am starting to dive my right leg in between his right calf and his butt. It is important that I dive DEEPLY, no half-hearted moves here. My right hand leaves its based-out position and follows my right leg…
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...also diving between his legs, and coming to rest as an underhook beneath his left leg. Even if he is sitting his weight back on his left leg, it is hard for him to resist this, as I am rocking all my bodyweight up underneath him.
This is the “Seated Half Guard” starting position. My head should be tight against his left hip, and I am so far under his body that we are almost facing the same direction. My ankles are crossed and my legs are squeezing to control his right leg. Here is an important detail: if at any time, he is able to put his right knee down on the ground, I simply put my left knee in front of his right hip and back out into a normal half-guard position. I don’t want to stay crunched up under him if his knee goes down, as he will be able to crossface me and kill my game. The knee in front is pretty easy to get here, though, so if you have a good normal half-guard game, this will won’t be too much of a concern.
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Now for the first sweep, this is a really nice one. My left hand stays tight to my body, and reaches for his right ankle.
Now I rock back to get some momentum, then rock forward and extend my left leg and lever forward, pushing on the top of his right thigh with my left hamstring, while pulling on his right ankle with my left hand.
I follow him up, keeping control of both legs…
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...as I start to sprawl downward, underhooking his left thigh with my right arm and overhooking his right thigh with my left arm…
..and capturing his right ankle with with the crook of my right knee. Keeping the under/over grip, I lean to a 45 degreee angle, keeping tight control of his hips, and extend my hips for the kneebar submission. If he bends his leg to avoid the tap, I get an easy guard pass.
Sweep #2 You can see this sweep attempted several times in the Pride fight where Rogerio Noguierra faces Shogun Rua. Though Shogun counters by repeatedly standing and running out of it, I have found it very effective. Enjoy!
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So you have attemped sweep number one from the initial sitting half guard position, but you aren’t able to grab his foot. So instead of underhooking his left leg, my right arm now underhooks his RIGHT leg, and my left arm joins it. Both hands are clasped together palm to palm over top of his right leg. This is a weird position at first, but there is not too much the top guy can do to you here. He can’t put much weight on you, can’t attack your arms, your legs, or your neck. The Noguierra brothers have used this position successfully in MMA, but I haven’t tried it in that scenario myself. I wouldn’t want to stay here long if someone was punching me in the face, but that’s just me. It does seem that it keeps the guy pretty off balance, not much power in his punches if you keep rocking. In any case…
...my first direction is out the back door. I have a lot of control over his leg here, and I rock my body hard to my left…
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...extending my legs as I bring his weight forward and pop my head out from under his leg…
...coming out the back door like so.
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If the opponent stays low, I look to block his left knee with my right hand, come to either back control or side control. Shogun showed us that this can be countered by standing up and twisting out of it, though, so be ready to follow with a single or double leg if he stands.
Sweep #3 The last sweep in this series. For now.
Here I have acquired the same position at the start of the previous sweep, and I am rocking my body hard to my left, attempting to come out the back door.
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My opponent knows my intentions, however, and sits his weight down hard back toward his butt to counter.
Keeping my arms gripped tight on his leg, I twist back to my right, following his momentum and turning upward…
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..to finish with a “single leg” type reversal. Minotauro hit this nicely in the first exchange of the Pride fight with the Polish judo champ.
Like many of the other sweeps so far, it leaves you in perfect position to once again hit the over/under – kneebar submission/guard pass.
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blanko said:
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Hey that’s my half guard game :P!!! I use all all of those sweeps and i love them. The only difference is that i trap his arm with the leg when i sweep. This prevents him from posting his arm when i sweep him AND it makes it harder for him to kimura me when he is in my halfguard. The only other thing i do different is sweep #1 i use an uppercut motion and try to hook his heel with my bicep instead of grabbign it. # 17 July 2007 at 11:12 am
deryk said: Good stuff Aesopian. I tried working with these during training last night, and although I wasn’t able to get them down exactly as shown, I got a lot of usage out of the concepts. My only problem though is the initial shooting in with the leg into halfguard. A lot of times, I end up in half guard with the guy’s knee down already or in some quarter-guard position. How do you manage to get in position for the first sweep? Seems really hard to do if the other guy doesn’t stay still. # 17 July 2007 at 3:49 pm
bjjeh said: Hi Aesopian, Great stuff. I think some of these sweeps are in video here (maybe helpful for some people—see vids 4/5): http://bjjeh.blogspot.com/2007/11/bjj-techniques-sweep-from-closed-guard.html # 30 November 2007 at 3:04 pm
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Playing Butterfly with an Overhook 13 November 2006 124 views No Comment Playing butterfly and half guard with an overhook was a game that confused me until recently. It runs against everything you’re taught about the importance of getting underhooks in order to prevent them from flattening them out. Yet I know guys like Jean Jacques and Mike Fowler are famous for triangles and ompplatas from these positions. I didn’t get how this was possible until I trained with a Gracie Barra black belt named David Vieira. He just opened a new school in my area and has visited my school a couple times to train. He took me and Trog aside one night and showed us the whizzer butterfly to triangle he used to win several matches in the Mundials. It was from this and watching his spar and observing him play his game that I picked up how to do it. The first part to understanding this game is knowing the grips.
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As they try to underhook my left arm, I overhook their right arm and whizzer my arm through so my hand is reaching across their chest. I grab their opposite collar as soon as I can. I will feed the collar deeper with my right hand until my left hand is as deep and tight around their neck as possible. I’ve seen Jean Jacques do several moves where he holds the same side collar, and I know that Robson Moura plays this game that way, but I would rather get the opposite collar since it gives me chokes. I will hold the same side collar if that’s all I can get and use it until I can get the right position to reach all the way across. For example, when they’re flattening me out in half guard and I can’t yet reach very deeply. An important detail on this grip is that I keep my left shoulder tight to his shoulder. This makes it more difficult for him to pull his overhooked arm out. You can play this position pretty much like a normal butterfly guard if you want, going for hooks sweeps to either side. Jean Jacques shows a lot of sweeps from an overhook butterfly guard like this in his books. I trained with a brown belt who did the usual sweeps from butterfly using this grip. But I don’t really play it like that though, and for the most part, neither does David, whose game I like more. You’ll see what I do instead below. In the above picture, you can see how I sit out to one side. This is a key to not being flattened out. Even if he drives me to my back (so I’m not sitting up into him), I’ll still be turned on my side with my hips free.
Even if he pushes me back, I’m still on my side and my hips are free. This actually plays right into my game from here, so I’ll purposely pull them down to this position. I’d rather have them down like this than trying to back away and free their arm. Another detail about how I’m staying aggressive from this position and not getting flattened out is to stay on my right shoulder, not on my back. I also turn my left shoulder down like I want to bring it to the mat. This presses their shoulder down and makes it harder for them to drive straight into my chest. The next important aspect of this game is how I use my hooks, knees and feet. As I said above, I don’t play this like a normal butterfly guard, where I’d be sitting up with my hooks under his thighs.
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In this picture, I’ve opened up the space so you can clearly see my legs. I took out my left hook and now have my foot stepping on his hip. This helps me create space, prevents him from smashing me, and moves my hips out so I can stay on my side. My right foot comes up and steps on his knee to break his base. This foot can also step on their hip to block them from passing or take a half guard position.
From the side, you can see that as I play the position, I step on their hip with my toes and bring my knee high, using it to press down on their back and shoulder. This is useful for several reasons later, but for now you should know that it prevents them from jumping over my hook on that side. My instructor was going over this overhooking butterfly with me on Thursday and he said the main
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problem with it is how the guy can jump over your butterfly hook on the side of the overhooked arm to pass guard. I showed him how instead of just butterfly hooking their thigh, I step on the hip and bring my knee slightly behind the back, which makes it much harder for them to jump to that side. He thought it was a good solution to that problem. From this angle, you can also more clearly see something about this position that I find interesting. It’s not quite normal butterfly guard, half guard or even half butterfly, and it’s not closed guard. But you can get to it from any of those guards, and it’s pretty easy to return to any of those guards from it. To me, it’s guard that’s between all of those ones and helps unite all of them. Lately, I’ve been getting my biggest improvements from learning these “in between” positions, since they fill the gaps between the standard positions.
Note how I’m so far out to the side that I have been able to bring my knee up on his shoulder. In addition to controlling the space and defending the pass like I said above, I’m now using it to get a straight elbow lock (hiza gatame) on the trapped arm. I keep escaping my hips and sliding down his arm until I feel his elbow under my elbow and his wrist in my armpit. I pinch my elbow in on his like I want to bring mine into my chest. I drive his shoulder down with my left knee. I twist my upper body to pressure down on the arm and help drive his shoulder down. To prevent him from posturing, I’ll kick out his far knee with my left foot. When I really go for the finish, I’ll bring my bottom knee up against his shoulder too and pinch it with my knees. You’ll need to experiment with this armlock some since it takes some practice and feedback from your training partner to get a feel for how to do it effectively to get a tap. You can see Koji Komuro demonstrate the submission here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B31pNfRj3a4 In addition to the straight elbow lock, I have a collar choke. I grab his collar with four fingers in and punch into his neck while pulling down on his other collar (with my overhooking arm). This first choke helps me create space to prevent him from driving into me and can be used to get the
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correct positioning for the armlock. I can also pull on the collar to break his posture if he tries to pull out. You can do the choke more like a cross collar choke by grabbing the wrinkled fabric on the shoulder (palm down), but I like doing it with my fist in the throat since it hurts more and can controls the space and posture better. I picked this up from Koji’s instructional and watching his matches. You can see Koji set this choke up from the top of half guard and finish it from the bottom here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hplbU2AaBcI And off the sprawl: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfBGSP2cefk Depending on how I enter this position (e.g. from closed guard vs half guard), I’ll either start with the collar choke then use it to get the armlock, or go for the armlock and add the collar choke. Ideally, I get both going at the same time so I can use them together. If I had to pick though, I’d say to go for the armlock more since it puts you in a better position, setups up alternate submissions and you can be done if you play this game no-gi.
Often while fighting to defend the armlock and choke, they’ll make themselves vulnerable to you climbing your leg to a triangle position too. You can go for the triangle much earlier without the collar choke and armlock, which is how David taught me, but I found that if I went for it first, I was more likely to have them counter by driving a knee though and passing my guard. Once I started going for the armlock and choke first, the triangle became safer.
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If you’re not content to have an armlock, choke and triangle all at once, you’ll happy to know that you can also throw your leg over for an omoplata. Again, you don’t need the other submissions first, but I found that going for the omoplata alone didn’t work well. The time to get it is when they’re in the armlock and try to escape the submission by driving their arm deeper (to take the pressure off their elbow) and bend it so their hand point down towards your hip. But really, I wouldn’t go for the omoplata if I had the other submissions I can do without switching to another position. It’s just nice to know it’s there. If they bend their arm up towards your head, you can go for an americana-like submission like Mir got on whatshisname. Watching David, I constantly see him with the whizzer grip, escaping his hips out as he goes for the armlock, working for the collar choke and climbing to the triangle, attacking all three at once. His opponent will be trying to give him the omoplata or let him sweep them just to escape, but he’ll roll around without letting go of anything. It was seeing this that inspired me to train this position more and helped me understand how it can be played. I’ve also seen him use this grip for hook sweeps and even swinging over to an armbar on the trapped arm, so that more to this game to explore too. In summary: Overhook and get a whizzer. Grab the far collar. Get your hips out and stay on your side. Get higher on their torso and step on their hips and knees. Attack the trapped arm, attack the neck, climb for triangles, watch for omoplatas. 09/06/2009 8:47
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One last comment on this game. Since I’ve started playing with it, I’ve found that my underhooking guards have gotten better too. How can this be? Because now I’m no longer afraid of them getting an underhook, while my opponent may actually give up his underhook to escape, giving me underhooks and even armdrags. (No Ratings Yet)
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Brabo Choke Homework: Trigger Position 28 June 2007 155 views 2 Comments I want to show how I’ve redefined the trigger position for myself and what this means to how I’m getting the choke. For the longest time, I thought of the brabo as only being available when they underhooked me. This is how it’s taught from half guard and when they escape side control. So the trigger position I came up with was “they underhook, I whizzer”, but that didn’t seem complete to me. As I learned more and more setups from all kinds of positions, I kept looking for aspects of the choke that stay true regardless of the particular setup. They didn’t always need to underhook me. In fact, it’s even better when they don’t since then I can skip crossing their arm. So what am I really looking for? Last week I got together to train with a friend. Normally I restrict myself to a few techniques, since I know I can go nuts and pull out a bunch of moves and have a lot of fun and learn nothing. But on a whim, I decided to run myself through an inventory of every brabo choke setup I know. Not to drill each one, but to refresh myself on all the ones I knew. To my surprise, rather than getting lost in techniques, I started consolidating my knowledge. The different setups started blending together and I saw how to take from one and apply it to another. The next day I was hitting brabos from all kinds of positions I normally never tried, since my arms were just finding the grips on their own. When I sat down and thought about it, I realized my arm was automatically going for this trigger position:
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My arm reaches through their armpit and grabs behind their neck. Them underhooking me is definitely one way to get there but far from the only way. This is good news, since people are already afraid of underhooking me, and now I don’t really care since I can work towards the choke without them feeding my the arm.
Side Control Armdrag Let’s look at how this bears out in action. You can make them give you the trigger position even if they don’t underhook.
I’m in side control. They have their arms in good posture and aren’t trying to get the underhook to escape.
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I give them some room to turn into me but they still don’t want to escape that way. Instead they are framing my neck and pushing away. My hand slides across their chest and grabs their triceps just above the elbow. I want their hand resting in the crook of my elbow, so we’re actually sharing a mutual grip. This traps their hand so they can’t circle their arm out.
I drag their arm across, crossing their elbow over their chest. I pull them to me slightly to turn their shoulder up. Then I lay my chest on their arm and use my chin to trap it. Keep control of the elbow since they’ll be fighting to pull it back or circle their arm out.
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I keep pulling their arm to me as I swim and uppercut my other arm through to the “new” trigger position.
I pull my arm out then shove their elbow in with my palm. They may try to swing their arm over their head to escape, so I need to make sure I keep their arm trapped with my chest and head in the moment when I let go to switch my grips. Once I’m shoving their arm in, I give myself enough room to put their arm on their neck (since it’s going to be up by their face at first), then I lay my chest on it again once it’s in place.
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From here I simply close the choke and do the usual to finish. You can do similar setups by grabbing their wrists or their sleeves and dragging their arm across. This also works from half guard when they are afraid to underhook.
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OldDog53 said: Another $25 in the “tip jar” for being so awesome. Yes, newness and novelty DO count. I’d like to learn stuff before it’s made its way through every academy and finally ends up in a book somewhere. So your efforts are appreciated. BTW, I don’t think this is a banned “advanced technique” for me. I have been working on arm triangle submissions starting from side control, but they call for a mount, then dismount off the other side. It will be fun to play with this and see if there are fewer steps (although snaking the arm “under” looks like it could be challenging). Anyway, for some reason I have been making more progress (in the relative sense of the term) with arm triangles and guillotines than with leg triangles…counter to the natural order of things. I’ve emailed my instructor to ask if he could try this out and then drill with me on Sunday. He’s pretty openminded about drawing from “all available sources” if he can validate the move for himself with his advanced students, which is very cool. # 29 June 2007 at 10:28 am
codemonkey76 said:
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i seem to always have trouble shooting the arm that deep, i don’t have long skinny arms like you though # 1 July 2007 at 5:11 pm
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One-leg Guard 13 November 2006 168 views No Comment At our meet up, Leo taught me a guard that Marcelo showed at his last seminar. He calls it the “one-legged x-guard” since it ties into the normal x-guard game. It’s a really strong position for sweeping and has obvious leglock potential. Marcelo taught it as what he has been doing now that people are wise to x-guard and will prevent him from underhooking their leg to avoid it. He’s now also playing a guard game that’s based on overhooking the leg (which is easier to do at a distance) and wrapping their trapped leg with both of his. I’d seen Marcelo use it successfully on black belts, but thought it was just improvised, but it turns out he really does play like this on purpose. You can see a similar sweep at about 1:00 in this video. Here’s how it goes:
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While playing open guard of some sort (probably sitting guard and trying to get x-guard) overhook their leg as you kick your left leg through the middle. Your right leg is hooking behind their far knee.
Wrap your left leg behind their leg and step on their near hip. Your right hand pushes on their far knee to keep it away.
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Then bring your right foot to the same hip. Or you can hook under their thigh like you’re doing a leglock. This is the main position. Keep your knees pinched tightly around their leg and push on their hip with both heels. As in x-guard, grab their far ankle as soon as you can. To sweep, straighten your body and shove your heels into their hip to push them back. This may be enough on its own to sweep them. Holding the ankle too makes it all the stronger.
After the sweep, there is an obvious ankle lock or you can take out your feet and come to your knees. Just tonight I used this successfully several times in a row on a blue belt with a 90 lbs. (or more) weight advantage. He tried to come down and crush into me but the power of both my feet on his hip was enough to push him off and straighten his leg. As with the ankle grab x-guard sweep, I couldn’t reach his ankle at first, so I tried to sweep without it, which he countered by bringing his base closer so I could grab his foot. Then I swept again and down her went. I ankle locked him after the sweep both times. He tried the normal leglock escape of kicking his leg through deeper, pulling my lapel, trying to sit up, etc. but because both of my feet were on his hip, none of this really worked.
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Brabo Choke Homework: Crossing the Arm 27 June 2007 96 views 3 Comments The next point to cover is how to deal with their underhooking arm. Like in the triangle, you want to cross their arm. Also like the triangle, it’s not completely necessary, but it’s best form, the cleanest technique and makes for the smoothest finish. They can use that arm to create a little space (so their shoulder doesn’t squash into their neck), or they can do Jeff’s escape of throwing the elbow back and grabbing their leg and kicking out. I’ll show how I prevent those escapes while adjusting the choke even deeper.
Here you see them trying to escape with an underhook, grabbing my leg as they come up for a takedown. The hand on my leg is my problem, so I’ve got to kill it somehow. Sprawling
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A simple and natural reaction is to sprawl like you would to defend a takedown. Throw your legs back and drop your hips to the floor. You may need to turn your hips from side to side and bounce a little to shake their arm off. Stay on your toes and drive in to put pressure on their triceps with your chest to help crush their arm and prevent them from reaching up (and maintaining their grip). You can finish from the sprawl too, but I’ve found you’re more likely to just crush their neck without choking them. As you’ll see, there’s still more adjusting you can do for a cleaner choke, and other finishing positions give you better pressure for the blood choke. Mule Kick
The problem I have with sprawling is that people can often hold on to my pants even with their arm stretched out. Or I’ll break their grip, but they get it again as I come back to my knees. This is why I
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prefer to do a mule kick. I switch my legs so the knee near their head is on the ground, then I kick my foot to the sky. I’ll keep kicking and shaking and lifting my leg until I feel their grip break and their arm fall between my legs. Put you chest on the back of their arm to press it down.
After I’ve broken their grip one way or another, I’ll come back to my knees, trapping their arm between them. Try walking slightly towards their head, but not all the way to north-south. Changing this angle between your bodies will let you reach your choking arm deeper since you’re not stretching it so far. The reason we didn’t do this earlier is because it gives them a better angle to get to their knees, but that’s less of a threat now that they don’t have the underhook any more. Take this moment to adjust and tighten your grips again; there is now usually an inch or two of space around their neck that you can close up now that the arm is crossed. Drop your shoulder, uppercut, wiggle deeper. You can finish fairly well from here by crunching them into you, pressing your elbow in like you want their head to meet their belly, and dropping your shoulder to the mat. But I like to take it even further since I’m going to sit-out to finish.
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I step up with my leg near their hips to give myself space.
Then I step in with my other leg, putting my knee up past their elbow, so my thigh is pressing on the back of their arm. Their arm is now crossed all the way to the other side of my body. I may even take a second here to adjust my grips even a little deeper.
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Now when I sit into them, my body (ribs, stomach, hips, thigh, knee, something) is blocking their elbow and pressing their arm across their neck. My top foot comes to their hip to prevent them from getting up. I keep scooting my hips into them, dropping my shoulder to the ground, twisting my upper body and squeezing the choke. The “best” time to cross the arm is when you’ve got the figure-four grip, since it’s the most secure. But you can do these steps while you’ve still got other ones. It depends on what they are defending. If they are blocking your next grip in the progression, start trying to cross their arm. Either you get that or they switch to defending it and you go back to working your grips. The idea is to be aware of your multiple goals and work towards each one, intelligently switching from one to the other so they’re trying to catch up.
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ShadowExplosion said: Just wanted to say thanks for your continued work on the brabo choke, its really added a strong element to my game that i was lacking before. Also wanted to add, that ever since seeing jeff’s brabo counter you posted i find it most efficient to hook over their left leg (and only the left leg) with my right leg and coming back through to the kneeling position (so that their hips/legs end up crossed, left over right), it seems to take away their option of getting flat to their back or working jeff’s counter, and gives me far greater control as they are locked up tight without the free range of movement they have if you only have a hold of the shoulder/head. Works especially well when i have to contend with the really strong guys that give me a hell of a time trying to finish the choke. # 28 June 2007 at 2:41 am
WhiteShark said:
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Does Trog ever get to choke you? :) # 29 June 2007 at 12:24 pm
sco said: i love those keiko gi shorts. where can i get a pair? oh, excellent stuff too. the brabo is now becoming one of my favorites. ;) thx! # 19 July 2007 at 3:48 pm
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Bow-and-arrow Choke Re-counter 10 November 2006 200 views No Comment So we’re clear, a re-counter is a counter to their counter. I stole the word from Stephan Kesting. If you’ve been following along with this series, you would have seen the basic rear collar choke, the totally awesome bow-and-arrow choke and the basics of back control and using monkey feet. Let us now return to the bow-and-arrow choke, only this time there are complications. You’ll often run into a problem when you go to spin out for the choke.
Everything looks good: they’re on their choking side, I’ve got the collar, I’m gripping the knee and ready to spin. But one big problem: my bottom leg is trapped.
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As you can clearly see from this side, my bottom leg is pinned to the floor. This prevents me from spinning out like I need to. This may happen when you’re going for the choke when you’ve already rolled them to their side. Or they will often try to escape this choke by driving their back to the mat. Or both. Regardless, you need to correct this before you can finish the choke.
To free my leg, I pull their knee towards me to lift their hips as I take out my hook and bring it under their body.
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Alternate angle: You can see me sliding my leg out from under their body. I am pulling their knee up to raise their hips and take their weight off my leg.
As my leg comes out from under them, I’ll drive forward and push their knee away so I can come up to my knee.
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Once I’m on my knee, I’ll slide it up towards their head.
From the other side, you can see that I am stepping on the floor with my left leg for base. All of my grips are still in place.
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A detail I worked out recently was to hide my elbow inside my knee and pinch it to the back of their head to prevent them from pulling my arm over their head.
I sit and throw my right leg forward.
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I pin the shoulder and trap the arms with my legs. Finish like usual. Huzzah.
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Brabo Choke Homework: Progressive Grips 27 June 2007 159 views 2 Comments More notes from my brabo choke homework.
Thinking Like It’s a Triangle This may seem obvious to you, but it took me a while think of the brabo as a triangle choke. Yeah, I knew literally that it’s an arm triangle—that’s not what I mean. I had a “just slap it on” attitude towards it, where I’d give up if I didn’t hit it in one shot, which isn’t how I think about the triangle choke with the legs. With that move, I know to be patient while I work towards my ultimate goal, fixing several points at once: maintaining position, breaking their posture, getting the correct angle, getting the proper contact with their neck, working to close the full figure-four, crossing their arm, etc. You have multiple simultaneous objectives, and which one you’re working on changes depending on its importance and how well they’re defending it. Once I started looking at the brabo along similar lines, it started clicking more and my success rate with it has gone way up. The main points I fleshed out were 1) how to get the arm triangle tight using progressive grips, 2) how to cross their arm and 3) how to apply finishing pressure. First, I want to go over the idea of using a series of grips to work towards tightening and closing the final choke. I’m big on giving people credit if they gave me ideas or teach me. I didn’t come up with any of these grips, but I did collect them from scattered resources and put them together. If you’re been following my brabo choke homework, you know the usual suspects for my inspiration/plagarism, so I don’t feel like re-re-recrediting them again here. It gets tiring to have to keep citing sources, but it’s a habit since people go “HURR RIGAN DID THAT FIRST” if I don’t. Or if I do. Doesn’t really make a difference. Anyway. Let’s start off. Assume we’re joining a brabo already in progress. They are trying to escape side control with an underhook, and I’ve whizzered my arm in for the brabo. Notice how I lay my head on them like I’m listening to their shoulder. This helps me drop my shoulder and reach deeper. I want to get my hand all the way to the back of their neck. If I don’t have my whole fist seeing the light of day, I won’t be able to get the choke.
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An important detail you’ll see in the photos below is how I keep pressure and weight on them so they can’t get to their elbow. They need to post on that elbow before they can get up. While I want them turned on their side enough to exposure their head and arm, I don’t want them to turn to all fours, since they have a better chance of taking me down or escaping then.
Progressive Grips You hopefully won’t need to use all of these grips to get the choke. You can usually skip ahead if you’ve got good timing and are quick, but I think the best way to approach a subject like this is to work from worst cases scenarios. Some of these grips are stronger than others, but each has its time and use. Each grip has the purpose of cranking their head in and bending their neck (or at least prevent them from straightening it any further). Pulling the Head
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This is one of the weaker grips but it’s also often one of the easiest to grab right away, particularly if you already had a crossface. It’s not very good for forcing their head in, but it’ll prevent them from stretching away too far. It’s also useful for maintaining control and contact if they start trying to bring their knee into your hips and stretch you out (like in z-guard) since you can reach farther with it. Stuffing the Head
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By rotating your palm on the back of their head, you can switch to one of the strongest grips. Shove their head in like you’re trying to stuff it down to their hips. You can really cram their head in with this one. Trog showed me how he was taught to use this grip to pass half guard by sprawling until their legs open and walking around. I can understand why, since it feels to me like the most pressure on the neck. Darce Grip
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Keeping constant pressure, slide from your palm to pushing with your wrist and grab a palm-to-palm grip. This is the famous D’arce grip. It offers a lot of control without being tiring to maintain. Scissor your forearms together and pinch your elbows. Pull their head towards you like you’re trying to shuck it under you. Short Man’s Brabo
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From the darce, you can shoot your outside arm through and grab your wrist and forearm. Keep your elbow in tight so you don’t give them room to pop their head out. You can use this to crank their head in as you slide your hand up your forearm towards your biceps. You can also use your outside hand to grab their shoulder and prevent them from getting up or (if they do get to their elbow) grabbing their triceps and breaking it down so they fall on their side again. Shove and Uppercut
One of my goals is to get the crook of my elbow tight to their adam’s apple and my forearm along the side of their neck. It’ll neck crank them more if I don’t get that deep since it’ll just be my forearm crushing their throat or muscles. As I’m progressing through all of these grips, I am constantly trying to shove my choking arm deeper and
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deeper. The motion is like doing an uppercut as I drop my shoulder. You can see this in the above photo. I’m doing it while I shove the back of the head. This is my favorite time to uppercut since I feel I can get really deep, but you can do it (to greater and lesser degrees) while holding any other grip. Try to do it any time you can, but the best times are right as and right after you’ve cranked their head in. In the moment it takes from them to try to straighten out again, you can shove and wiggle your arm through a little more. Finishing Grip
Once you’ve got your choking arm deep enough, you should be able to put your wrist in the crook of your elbow. Your palm and fingers should actually reach around to the back of your triceps. If you’re only just grabbing your biceps with your hand, you’re more likely to have the grip break or slip off, and you can actually hurt your fingers. It also probably means you didn’t get the choke tight enough. Your outside hand reaches up and grabs their top shoulder as high as it can. My personal trick for making
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sure I’m doing this right is to try to bring my hand up until I can put my chin on it. Doubt the chin really helps but it feels proper. That’s it for now. The next point I’ll go over crossing the arm.
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codemonkey76 said: good stuff, keep it coming # 27 June 2007 at 6:19 pm
chris colquitt said: I have a question for you: Have you seen the entry that Rick Estrada shows on subfighter? He basically get the “guillotine grip” with his overhooking arm gripping the arm around the head. He will then use his elbow as a pivot on the back of the head and pull the overhooking hand through straight to the “short man’s brabo”. if you’ve used it, let me know what you think. if not, give it a shot. I find its an easy way to keep pressure and get my hand through. CC # 2 July 2007 at 12:00 pm
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Bow-and-arrow Choke 10 November 2006 515 views No Comment It’s time for me to reveal my secrets. Below is my current favorite choke. It is extremely high percentage, so much so that you’ll actually feel like it was too easy. Oh, you think I’m joking but I’ve had people come back to me and say just that. You’ll have maybe two or three fingers in the collar and spin out for this and think there’s no way it’s really that tight. It doesn’t feel that tight to you. Then they tap. It’s magic. And I’m going to share this magic with you.
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I am going for the basic rear collar choke (as seen here), but they are keeping their left arm tight to their body, denying me from reaching under to grab the collar. Notice how low my grip is on the collar. This may be because I am unable to feed it deeper, or I just plan on doing the following choke already. This choke actually works better with a looser grip; gripping too deeply in the collar can actually put stress on your wrist later.
Unable to get under their arm, I reach down and grab their knee with my left hand.
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I pull myself to the knee as I throw my left hook across their body and take out my right hook. I need to spin out and bring my right leg behind their head before they can put their weight on my leg and prevent me from doing so.
After spinning out, it should be like they’ve fallen backwards into the space you opened up. Notice how I am sitting up, not letting my hips be trapped under them. You know you’ve got it right when their head is 09/06/2009 8:49
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resting on your thigh. Keep ahold of their knee so they can’t run or roll away.
To defend the choke, Greg has reached up and grabbed my arm to try to pull it over his head, which will stop it.
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To prevent this, I throw my legs over his arm until I’ve pinned it then I cross my ankles. Do this whether or not they attempt the defense. I just taught it in this context to show you how to stop a common defense.
The important detail at this point is to make sure your calf is on their shoulder in order to lock down their upper body. You’ll find that if you keep working to trap this arm, you’ll catch it like it’s in the crucifix or even put them into triangles.
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To finish, I lay back and arch my shoulders, pulling on the lapel and the knee. The grip on the knee prevents them from turning away from it. This is a really powerful choke since it puts your entire back into it.
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A Part of Bjarni’s Half Guard Game 30 November 2006 106 views 4 Comments Bjarni Baldursson of Straight Blast Gym in Iceland put together an excellent tutorial on two aspects of his half guard, and he was happy to let me share them here. What I found especially interesting about his material is how it’s very similar to Eddie Bravo’s, but has little variations. His lockdown has a slight difference in foot placement. He gets the underhook much like Eddie does with the Jaws of Life, and he gets the butterfly hook almost like Eddie’s Super Stomp, but neither are exactly the same. I like to see the little differences that happen when multiple sources work on the same positions and strategies, and what Bjarni shows is very solid material. I’m going to be working on this to see if I can’t revive my underhooking half guard game. From Bjarni’s Half Guard Game Just wanted to show you a part of my half guard game. It’s mainly what I use to get the underhook and block the cross face by using lockdown and pushing the guys chin, or if that doesn’t work I go to Butterfly half guard.
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Before I continue I’d like to point out that I don’t use this kind of lockdown, as it traps one of my legs and makes it harder to get to Butterfly Half Guard.
Instead I use this one. I pull my left heel towards me and press on my right calf with my left toes.
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When he’s cross facing me with his left shoulder I use the lockdown and extend my legs to pull him down, and get the pressure off my chin.
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1. I push on his chin to make him look to his right. (It’s important to push on the chin and not on the side of his head cause it’s really hard for him to resist that.) 2. By doing that I create enough space to get my right hand through his armpit and block the cross-face. 3. I simultaneously a) press with both hands to push his chin/head further away and b) move my torso left and turn a bit into him. 4. Continue pushing with my right arm while I get the underhook with my left hand. 5. Go as much under him as I can. 6. Move my right hand off of his chin and on his left bicep. If, on the other hand, he keeps his head down so I can’t push his chin to the side, I try to go to Butterfly Half Guard. Most of the time when he pushes his head down the legs get a little lighter so I’m able to lift them.
1. I lift his leg up, almost kicking it up. 2. Swing my left leg in. (It’s difficult to do this if you use the lockdown that’s on the first picture.) 3-6. Get the hook in and secure his leg.
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OldDog53 said: Pictures 1 & 2 in the unnumbered top sequence make sense; but I don’t understand the third unnumbered picture from the top. It looks like Bjarni’s no longer has his practice partner’s leg trapped, and looks more like a traditional figure 4 guard (with the left leg straight on the outside) but without a leg trapped. Huh? The comment about using the lockdown to relieve some pressure from the shoulder cross face to open up space for the Jaws of Life look-alike technique is helpful. I didn’t know that. Pushing on the jaw instead of the temple, huh? # 30 November 2006 at 7:03 pm
Bjarni said: Hi OldDog53 You were asking about….. “but I don’t understand the third unnumbered picture from the top.” Just wanted to show the cross-face. “Pushing on the jaw instead of the temple, huh?” If you push on the guys temple he can push back with his head, but if you push on his chin/cheek his jaw joint can’t take the pressure of pushing back against your hand! Hope this helps :D # 1 December 2006 at 7:41 am
blanko said: great stuff!!! # 2 December 2006 at 8:54 am
blanko said: also pushing his jaw turns his head and it “prevents” his neck and his back becomeing one “line”; that also takes some of his strength away. # 2 December 2006 at 8:57 am
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Back Control and Monkey Feet 13 November 2006 87 views No Comment Leo Kirby, a purple belt in South Florida, and I have been conspiring to breakdown Marcelo Garcia’s game from the back. Leo has been to four seminars and done like 16 hours of private lessons with Marcelo so he’s got more hands on experience with what I’m going to share. I picked up a lot of the same points from watching footage of Marcelo competing and watching him roll at the seminar. Here’s the basic formula: When you’ve got the harness, the arm that’s over the shoulder is the “choking arm”, the one that will attack the neck. You want to roll them to the side of the choking arm. And you only really need to worry about keeping the hook in on this side. So what can you do with the other hook? From watching footage of Marcelo competing and observing him roll at the seminar, I’ve picked up several options. Leo has confirmed these and given more several more. You will see Marcelo constantly working on his opponent with his free leg, busily hooking and dragging and locking it all over the place. Here are the tricks we’ve gleaned thus far.
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You can take it out and step on their hip to monitor it. You could even take it out and step on the floor to shrimp back and keep your hips free. When you’ve got someone like this, one of their main escapes will be to try to roll to the other side and drive their back to the mat as they turn to face you.
When the bridge to try to do this, you can put your hook behind their knee and lift, preventing them from turning.
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I don’t use this control much, but Leo was adamant that I include it since he says Marcelo will do this a lot and RNC from it. The bottom hook goes really deep and the free top hook triangles around the leg with it. It’s like a backwards half guard, and it’ll be familar to anyone who likes the twister. Leo says that Marcelo will get this when people are trying to scramble away. He does a really strong “cobra stretch” by driving his hips in and arching his legs back. He does this same stretch from this position or with both hooks in when he’s finish the RNC or any rear choke.
The top hand gets a one-on-one on the wrist and pushes it down towards the hips.
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The knee comes down on the elbow and pinches the arm to the body, pinning it.
They will usually straighten their arm while trying to free it.
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Which gives you an opportunity to throw your leg over the arm and hook it. Now that arm can’t help defend their neck. I actually just go straight to hooking his arm without breaking it down or pinching the elbow with my knee, but those are needed if they are keeping it well hidden from your hook. Happy hunting.
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Fixing Common Rubber Guard Problems 29 November 2006 149 views 6 Comments I was going to save this for after I’d covered everything about my tournament, but I couldn’t resist the urge to share it after receiving my copy of Mastering the Rubber Guard by Eddie Bravo yesterday. From what I’ve seen, the most common problems with (and arguments against) rubber guard are getting stacked, getting passed too easily, the demands on one’s flexibility and the risk of injury. I’ve experienced all of these problems myself and had mostly given up on rubber guard because of them. It wasn’t until I attended Eddie Bravo’s seminar that I gained renewed interest and faith in the rubber guard. He taught details that handily fix most these problems. Seeing him teach it in person and hearing him repeatedly stress certain points made me realize how I’d be doing it wrong all along. I was missing all the little details on the grips and positions that are hard to pick up from photographs. I now think most complaints about the rubber guard come from people who are studying it out of pictures in books and websites, like I was. It’s hard to learn the right pressure to maintain while doing rubber guard and you’ll miss little but important details without seeing and learning it in person. I’ve only just gotten into the book, but already I see that Eddie has devoted a lot of the book to breaking down these details and the strategies that are missing from his previous book and online tutorials. Let’s see if I can’t offer something he didn’t with a couple little details I’ve worked out.
A Common Problem I want to open with a common problem I used to have with rubber guard, and one I suspect many others are still having. If you’ve played with rubber guard, you’ve probably had this happen more times than you care to count.
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You’ve broken their posture and gotten mission control.
Your opponent reaches back. Oh boy, you can feel your triangle coming!
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But before you get anywhere, he’s blocked your leg with his elbow and is crushing it to the mat. He’s not out yet though, so maybe there’s still hope for you.
Oh no, now you’re screwed. He’s gotten his knee in and really killed your rubber guard.
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Maybe you’ll catch them in a “half rubber guard” of sorts and try to work from there (as I’ve seen done, and as Eddie shows in his book with moves like the Carni), but I’ll bet they’ll just keep driving through and try to explode your groin.
You’ll likely let go of your rubber guard because of the pain and pressure, and if you’re lucky and they don’t pass outright, you’ll end up in half guard.
The Fixes In his book, Eddie devotes an entire chapter to troubleshooting common problems from rubber guard, including what to do when you they’ve stepped over your free leg. But I’d rather just avoid the situation entirely.
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I worked out these details by experimenting with what he showed at his seminar, but I now see he describes them in the introduction to the rubber guard chapter of his book, in the section “Troubleshooting Mission Control”. Consider this the pictorial companion to his words. To start fixing this problem, we’ve got to move back to before we’re even in rubber guard.
I’ve got a normal closed guard and I’m breaking their posture.
I step with my right foot on the hip as I climb my other leg up the back. This is actually where you start setting it up so he can’t pass over your leg. It’s hard to see, but you need to understand that I am squeezing my knees together with constant pressure, pinching them to his sides. I call this the “thigh master”.
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When I grab my foot and go to mission control, my free leg is still thigh mastering against his ribs. Compare this to the first picture in this tutorial, paying special attention to the position of my knee, and the relationship of his arm to my thigh. My knee is up under his armpit and my thigh is behind his triceps, blocking him from behind his elbow or reaching back and pressing down on the inside of my thigh. Eddie stressed this point over and over again at his seminar, saying the ability to maintain this constant squeezing pressure with your legs is extremely important to a tight rubber guard (or any closed guard). He also said (and writes in his book) that it takes a while to build the endurance to keep the thigh master on all that time, but it will pay off when you can. I’ve been trying to work the constant thigh master into my closed guard, and it’s one factor I attribute my tournament wins to. If you keep a constant squeeze (as well as pulling your heels to your butt), any high guard game becomes drastically tighter and harder to posture out of. Once you’ve got your legs conditioned, it’s harder to high guard well with loose legs because they’ll be able to posture up and rip out whenever they feel in danger. So putting in a little extra effort beforehand will prevent a lot of problems from arising later. I can cover the basics of defending the stack as well as minimizing flexibility abuse and joint injury (which go hand in hand) at the same time.
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Here is a view of mission control from the side. The first point to notice is that I have my foot on the hip. This is my first defense to the stack, allowing me to push them off when they drive in. Simple enough. Eddie covers counters to the stack in his book that actually sweep and submit them. This foot on the hip is also what saves my joints and reduces the demands on my flexibility. Even before I use it to defend the stack, I can use my foot on the hip to tell if I’ll be able to easily get rubber guard or not. If I can’t get my foot on the hip, I know my guard is too low and I’ll have to pull my leg too high to work rubber guard. I’ve seriously hurt my hip joint before by not keeping this point in. Another way to gauge this is by the position of his head relative to my stomach. If he is at my sternum or above, I know I’ll have to really stretch to pull my leg up for rubber guard. If his face is in my stomach, down by my hips, then I know I am high enough that it won’t be hard to get rubber guard. Look at the angle between my back and my left leg, with my hip as the corner. It’s nothing extreme, like having to bring my foot to my face, and this is because I made sure to get my guard high enough that I could put my foot on the hip. I know a lot of people have hurt their knees and even their ankles while trying rubber guard. I’ve never had problems with this, thankfully, and I think it is because I have always tried to bend at the hips more than trying to pull my knees or feet around. When you’re going for more demanding moves like tight omoplatas or gogoplatas, be careful with how much you pull your foot and how much stress is on your knee, and try to get your leg into place by bending at the hips. Rubber guard does demand a degree of flexibility that most people have trouble with at first. Go easy at first, and don’t try it on anyone who’s going to spaz out and thrash out of it. Work on your flexibility; Eddie’s stretching chapter is great for this. Drill it for a while to get the steps and positions down. If you want to really get into the rubber guard, I highly recommend picking up a copy of Eddie Bravo’s book, Mastering the Rubber Guard. What I’ve shown here is just a couple little scraps of the complete game he’s designed.
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OldDog53 said: Most excellent, although on my Training Log I’ve been banned from discussing or showing any interest in Rubber Guard until I have lost my newbieness. # 29 November 2006 at 4:23 pm
Aesopian said: You are violating your parole. # 29 November 2006 at 4:24 pm
OldDog53 said: This isn’t a question about actual Rubber Guard techniques, just the general theory, so hopefully I’m not violating my parole. But IYHO (in your humble opinion) do you think Rubber Guard is principally no-gi, or do the techniques work well with a gi? We know that Eddie’s big thesis is that a lot of gi techniques don’t translate well into no-gi because you lose your gripping points, but is the opposite true as well, that no-gi techniques lose their edge when you put the kimono back on because of all the added gripping points? (By Rubber Guard I don’t mean just Mission Control etc., but rather the whole flow-charted and interrelated sequences Eddie shows in the new book, like Butterfly Guard, Twister Side Control, Half Guard, the gi-less guard passes, etc.) # 30 November 2006 at 12:24 pm
Aesopian said: It all works with the gi on. The friction is just different, sometimes for the better, sometimes for the worse. You can even add gi grips to most of his stuff to make it tighter, though your opponent can also use gi grips to defend it. # 30 November 2006 at 12:27 pm
Dochter said: Continue discussion here: http://www.aesopian.com/forum/general/topic-2/ ? # 30 November 2006 at 2:01 pm
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Aesopian said: Here, actually: http://www.aesopian.com/forum/techniques/topic-3/ # 30 November 2006 at 2:11 pm
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Stupid Simple Armdrag 8 November 2006 213 views No Comment This is the next installment in the stupid simple sweep series.
Starting from knees. I have combat base, where I’ve got one knee up and I’m sitting on my other leg.
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Jon reaches for my lapel to get the match started.
I grab his wrist with my left hand and pass it to my right.
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I cross grip his sleeve with my right hand, using a pistol grip.
I kick my left leg out and step on his knee. If you saw the first stupid simple sweep, you’ll know the extremely important detail on how I do this. Hint: push on the inside to the outside, then back, not straight back.
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I kick out my other leg and plant it on his hip to keep him stretched out. I am also crossing his arm to the other side.
I fall back using my upper body weight to stretch and keep crossing his arm. I keep kicking out his knee and pushing on his hip, going for the sweep.
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SURPRISE TWIST! He bases out and postures back to defend the sweep. This is what I said would happen when I taught the stupid simple sweep: they will often be able to defend it. So I sit back up and get ready to take advantage of this.
My right hand comes off the sleeve and grabs his triceps. My left hand is still gripping the wrist and passing it under my right arm.
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I lean forward, getting shoulder to shoulder. My left hand comes off the wrist and grabs the belt.
Wanting to just finish the sweep, I fall back again with my new super deep grip on the arm and keep kicking out his knee.
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I twist to come on top. Note the Halloween underwear.
Now in mount, with the arm still hugged across my body. In the super bright white of his arm, you can see I’m still grabbing his triceps. Let’s say I don’t want to sweep him but take his back instead. Rewind to this point:
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I’ve armdragged him and I’ve got a grip on his belt. Since I want to take his back, I’ve taken my right foot off his hip and put it between his legs, like I’m going to half guard.
I lift my left leg way up in the air…
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...and swing it down, giving me the momentum to sit up without posting my hands on the mat or releasing my grips.
I get my chest on his back and take a harness grip, reaching under his far armpit and joining hands. I cinch my elbows to my ribs to glue me to his back. It’s hard to make out in the photo, but I have also gotten to my right knee while keeping my foot in place to act as a hook.
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Instead of trying to climb all the way up on his back, I fall back and use my harness grip to pull him down on to his side. You know what to do here. But I’ve got some extra details I picked up from Marcelo Garcia and a friend named Leo Kirby that I’m going to share anyway. When I’ve got the harness grip, if I can put them on their side like this, I only need to keep one hook on the same side as my choking arm. In this case, this is his right side, my right hook and my right arm. My left foot is free to do different things. I could just put it in as a hook like normal, or I could do this:
I am stepping on his hip (to keep him turned on his right side) and I am pinching the side of my knee down on his left arm, pinning it to his ribs. I could use a one-on-one grip to pass his arm down to do this, but I just skipped ahead for this photo. This is a surprisingly strong way to trap the arm since it holds it in an awkward position.
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If they do straighten their arm to escape, you can hook it with your leg, like this:
Now he’s foyally rucked. You’ve now totally killed that arm, and if he takes out your right hook, you can still switch to the crucifix. What makes these work so well in combination with the stupid simple sweep is that when they posture back and trying to pull their arm out, they actually give you something solid to climb in order to get on their back. God, I’m just totally awesome.
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North-south Escape to the Back 28 November 2006 310 views 9 Comments Consider this the first edition of Aesopian’s Tournament Tested Techniques. I’m starting off the series with the north-south escape that saved my bacon in the final match of the light weight blue belt division. This move takes some flexibility in your back and hips, and long legs certainly help. I don’t recommend it as your main escape from north-south, but it’s well worth knowing so you can use it when the situation calls for it.
I am in the unfortunate situation of being stuck under north-south. I need to make sure he doesn’t hug my arms, or I won’t be able to push on his hips, and worse, I’m more vulnerable to kimuras.
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Reach out and grab his hips with both hands. Shove him away, trying to lift his hips and scoot your chest down.
At the same time, stretch your legs and plant your feet…
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...and drag yourself out some. Use the line between the mats as a reference to see how I’ve escaped my hips out. This is where the reverse shrimping you never do and I get scoffed at for drilling comes in handy.
Shoving their hips and escaping yours down should put your head under their chest. My arms and neck are extremely exposed so I need to be quick with the escape.
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When he sprawls to try to stop all of the wiggling I’ve been doing, I lock my arms out and shove his hips as high as I can.
I quickly start a backwards somersault motion, throwing my legs up on his back.
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I get the first hook in and use it to pry myself out the rest of the way. This is where a flexible back and long legs make themselves valuable. They will likely try to keep your upper body down and smash you from here.
To minimize the stress on your back and neck, roll over one shoulder.
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Just keep digging your hooks in and using them to pull yourself on to their back. “Walk” on your shoulders and shake your upper body out until you’re free.
Free your self completely and enjoy your new position on their back.
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OldDog53 said:
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You said, in part: “To minimize the stress on your back and neck, roll over one shoulder.” Does it matter which shoulder, based on which leg hook you get in first? And in the picture just above that caption, why doesn’t blue just push you back down (push forward)? (Yeah, I’ll have to try it, once we get open mat time so I can corner a practice partner….) # 28 November 2006 at 4:39 pm
Aesopian said: They will do that, and it will stop the escape sometimes, but once I’ve got a hook in I can almost always pull myself out. The counter to this escape is to drive in, drop your hips and flatten their hips out. # 28 November 2006 at 4:41 pm
blanko said: nice move # 28 November 2006 at 4:58 pm
Garbanzo Bean said: A hidden special feature of this technique is that inserting the first hook often off-balances the opponent enough to roll him over onto his side a bit, making it easier to insert the other hook and climb up the back. If you’re having trouble jumping all the way to the back with hooks in-be it from lack of flexibility, short legs, whatever-think about hooking your first leg to go over into the back of your opponent’s belt, then sinking your hooks from there. Much like the original escape, it’s not your best option, but it’s there and can be effective. # 28 November 2006 at 7:10 pm
Garbanzo Bean said: I guess I just learned how to strike through words. # 28 November 2006 at 7:12 pm
Dochter said: I’ve actually gotten this sortof via the method GB mentions. I have had the most success in setting this up by first doing the leg pendulum swingy thing and then going to the single hook.
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Didn’t JohnnyS post this awhile back on Bullshido? # 28 November 2006 at 7:53 pm
Aesopian said: Johnny showed a similar escape a long time ago but the photos are no longer online. I was trying to find it when I was putting up his other tutorials. # 29 November 2006 at 10:53 am
Dochter said: That’s what I figured. As I recall it was generally scoffed at when first posted. I too thought “no way in hell is that going to work for me”. I remember appreciating the irony when I first got it. # 29 November 2006 at 12:07 pm
Dochter said: In response to your opponent pushing you back down, depending on their hip placement and head position you can sometimes somersault them over you and take their back similar to how Viera takes people’s back while they’re turtled. The sometimes should really be “once in a very rare while”. Quite amusing to get though. # 29 November 2006 at 12:09 pm
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Stupid Simple Sweep 8 November 2006 158 views One Comment The first in the stupid simple sweep series. This sweep is not very flashy or complicated, nor is it at all original or unique. It is pretty simple, maybe even stupidly so, thus my name for it: the stupid simple sweep. And as I’ll explain later, you’ll rarely get it exactly as shown below. But none of that stops it it from being my one of my current favorites.
Jon is in my closed guard with posture, holding my lapels. I am cupping his right wrist with my left hand and cross gripping his sleeve with my right hand.
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I open my guard and step on his hips with both feet. I keep my knees pressing in towards him so he can’t easily reach back and push them down.
I straighten my legs and push off his hips to scoot away.
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I sit up then quickly jerk my chest back as I shove my hands up, stripping his grip off my lapel.
I sit up again after stripping his grip. My left foot comes off his hip and steps on the inside of his right knee.
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I sit forward and cross his arm as I kick his knee out, blocking it with my foot. EXTREMELY IMPORTANT DETAIL: Do not try to just push their knee straight back—that won’t work. They’ve got a lot of weight on the knee and pushing straight into it won’t move it much. Instead, push it out (from the inside) to spread their knees apart and then push it back. This is much, much easier, as you will see if you experiment a little with it.
From the other angle, notice how my foot is still on his hip. I’ve tried to switch to a butterfly hook at this point, but it doesn’t have much power to lift them when I’m sitting so far away. Instead, it serves more of a purpose on their hip, helping to stretch them out. I will also use my knee and shin on his chest to help twist him for the sweep.
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I fall back, using my body weight to pull his arm and I keep pushing his knee out. Notice how stretched out Jon is. You won’t always get it this good in sparring, but you can sure try.
If everything goes exactly as planned, you get this really exaggerated mid-sweep shot. Most people won’t really get this stretched out, but this gives you an idea of how much commitment I put into it.
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As he rolls sideways, I twist my hips and come on top.
Tudda. Mount. As I said at the start, you’ll rarely get this sweep as shown here. If you do get it, you’re lucky if you get it on your first try. But that’s not really why I go for it. I just like to use the threat of this sweep more than anything. This sweep is really simple, not much more than just pulling their arm and kicking out their knee, but this is actually its virtue. You can just keep repeating it over and over and over again until it works or they give you something else. Keep kicking out their knee, breaking their base, breaking posture, crossing the arm, stretching them out. Over and over and over. They’ll posture, they’ll pull back, they’ll try to post their hands and feet, they’ll try to stand up, they’ll go to combat base, they’ll do all sorts of stuff. But none of those really stop you
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from just trying to hit this sweep again. As simple as it is, they’ve got to defend it, and it’s how they react to this that will setup other sweeps and submissions. Later I’ll show how I armdrag and take the back off this. If you’re good boys and girls, I’ll also use it to setup a triangle-armbar. For example, just yesterday, I rolled with two purple belts and probably went for this sweep ten times on each one. I’d go for it but they’d defend somehow, so I’d reset enough to go for it again. And again. And again. By about the fourth or fifth time, they’d have fallen enough behind that the next time I tried, it actually worked. Or they’d be so messed up from trying to recover that I’d switch to another sweep or a triangle. Talking to one of them afterwards, he said that he felt like he was always behind, trying to catch up and could never settle himself to even start passing. So keep the pressure on, keep threatening this sweep, go for it with commitment over and over again, and they’ll fall more and more behind, until you finally get them with it or something better. A little more on the grips. Here is the one I use:
One hand cups the wrist and the other pistol grips the gi. I like this grip for several reasons, including 1) the pistol grip controls them trying to pull out and is good for pulling them back, 2) the grip on the wrist controls side to side movement well and prevents them from doing an easy circular grip break and 3) my fingers don’t get wrecked when they rip out. You could also grip this way:
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Pretty much the same, only with a different grip on the sleeve. It’s more secure but more taxing on your fingers. Or this way:
This grip probably gives you the most pulling power on their arm, but doesn’t control it much in other directions and is easier to escape with circular grip breaks. But mostly it just rubs my knuckles raw until they bleed and turns my hands to claws when they rip their arm out.
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codemonkey76 said: It’s all seriousness until photo7, both of you can’t keep a straight face, lol # 9 January 2007 at 10:45 pm
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Heel Drag Side Control Escape 25 November 2006 192 views 2 Comments I’ve had this sitting around for a while, but since I use it in my soon-to-be-released tournament footage, I felt I should get it up on the site so I can refer to it later. If I owe anyone for this escape, it’s probably Roy Harris. My first good mount escape (and still my favorite) is the heel drag, which he showed on his website as a drill to improve hip movement. Somehow, I mutated this move and applied it to escaping side control and the end result is a knee crank that ends with me in half guard.
I have been caught under side control. They are clasping their hands around my upper body and head. I have my right foot on my left knee to close the space around my stomach so they have less room to take mount.
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Most important of all, despite being under side control, I have good posture. My arms are between his chest and mine, with my elbows in and my hands by my face. My left forearm is across his neck and my right hand is by my cheek, defending the crossface. My left elbow is inside his arm, since he will be trying to underhook it to lock down the position. Regardless of what escape I want to do, having correct posture is extremely important. If he’s underhooking my arms or trapping them with his knees, I’ll have trouble with any escape. If I’m spazzing out and hugging him or grabbing over his back or headlocking him, I’m just preventing myself from escaping. And I must have reverted back to being a gotarded white belt or something. If you take anything away from this, it should be the importance of proper posture. This escape and most others won’t mean much without it.
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To begin the heel drag escape, I straighten my right leg (the one nearest to their knee) as I use the other one to turn my hips on their side.
I step over with my left leg over and hunt for their leg, trying to hook my heel on the far side of it. Someone with a good top game will hide their foot so you can’t hook it this easily, so don’t get your heart too set on this escape if you can’t hook their leg after 2-3 tries. Give up on it for the moment and just go back to the normal elbow-escapes and such. But while you’re doing your standard escapes, you may find that you’re forcing them to scramble to keep you down, and they’ll often leave their leg out by accident, giving you just what you need to nail this escape. So like all moves, use this in combination with others, not as a one-shotter.
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I catch their ankle and drag my heel back, lifting their foot as their knee gets blocked by my thigh.
I bend my leg, trying to bring my heel to my butt, so their foot slides up behind the back of my knee. This adjustment is what traps their leg (so they can’t drive up and pull their foot out) and is what really makes the move work.
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I scissors my legs, stepping on the floor with my left foot as I try to bring my right leg under their knee. I also hip into them like I want to roll them to my left (which will actually happen sometimes). This creates a knee cranking pressure that can hurt pretty bad, and they will usually try to relieve it by lifting their knee and straightening their leg, making it easier for you to pass your right leg under it.
From above, you can see how harshly I have twisted their leg. I am still cranking their leg back with their ankle trapped behind my bent knee. My right leg has now passed to the other side, giving me half guard. I am bending my leg and using it to block their knee from trying to drive back out to side control.
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To relieve the pressure on their knee, they will drive it to their right, which firmly lands them in my half guard. My escape is now complete. Next begins the half guard game, but we’ll go over that another day.
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Dochter said: This is a common technique at my school, and one that I personally use a lot under both mount and side control (and for the remaining leg under half). There is actually a nice way you can take mount from side if your opponent likes this move. Give your opponent the far leg (in this picture series, the left leg) to hook, without them realizing which leg it is. Now you basically have grapevined the one leg. Drive the knee of the free leg up to KOS and toward their stomach and then into their far armpit. This move works best when you’re grinding the hell out of their face with your shoulder from side and they can’t see what you’re doing. When your opponent is savvy to this method of taking mount it is easy for them to stuff it (and possibly sweep you) but it can be quite effective. It has been particularly effective against me when I’m facing an opponent where I have to be very effective and aggresive (i.e. when they way outclass me). # 28 November 2006 at 1:29 pm
Dochter said: I should say, I don’t do it quite how you do but similar. # 28 November 2006 at 1:30 pm
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Basic Rear Collar Choke 13 November 2006 164 views One Comment This weekend, I had planned on shooting a series on breaking posture from closed guard, but my training partner Trog showed up. We’ve been working on a series of back attacks and chokes together so we felt it’d be a better use of our time to shoot these instead. We’ve got some awesome collar chokes we’ve been doing that we wanted to share. But before we get on to the awesome ones, there are some fundamentals I wanted to cover first. Nothing below should be that new to anyone who trains, but I am trying to build up the number of detailed tutorials of basic moves that are available online. We’ve already got plenty of advanced moves and a lot of poorly done basics, but I’d like to see more solid fundamentals done in great detail. So with that in mind, here is the… Rear collar choke
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We are in a sitting rear mount. I have both arms under his armpits, gripping both lapels. This gi grip is very secure grip, giving you a lot of control over his upper body and allowing you to easily stay behind him if he tries to turn to face you. I have both my feet hooking over his thighs, with my heels pulling into his thighs. Do not cross your ankles or they’ll triangle their legs over your feet and ankle lock you. Do not grapevine their leg by hooking your toes behind their knees. This is just awkward and can lead to knee injuries.
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I pull out my right hand and reach over his shoulder, grabbing the opposite lapel.
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I reach deeper into his collar, using my left hand to pull the lapel down and feed it deeper. This is the detail I see most often forgotten, yet it can be the deciding factor to whether or not the choke works.
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I reach across with my left hand and grab the opposite lapel.
As I go to finish, I fall back to my right side to put them on the opposite side than they need to be to escape.
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To finish, I straighten my arms, stretching them out like I want my right to shave the top of my left. My right hand is pulling the collar across the neck as my left hand pulls down on the lapel, taking out the slack. I am arching my shoulders and puffing my chest out to get the power of my back into the choke. My hips are driving into him and my hooks are flexing back. The power of this choke comes from putting your entire body into it like this, not just pulling on the lapels with your arms alone. This may be one of the simplest chokes from the back, but it’s also one of the most powerful, and it is necessary to threaten it to setup the chokes I’ll be showing later, so be sure you have it down right.
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Afrofeet said: This is choke how I learned also. But last weekend i was at Leo Neves seminar (BB under Leo Vieira I think) an he ask me to choke him. I did it like this and he said that is no good. Then he show us the way he choke. The main thing is space. You have too much space for him to escape. Head to the head, and more one the side like on this picture http://www.grapplearts.com/Images/PhotoOfTheWeek/Joe-Doerkson-Collar-Choke.jpg # 2 May 2007 at 12:52 pm
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Marcelo’s Half to X-guard Transition 13 November 2006 243 views No Comment Leo Kirby showed me a way Marcelo gets x-guard from half that I found really interesting. It takes a movement that I never really liked doing from half guard (though sometimes do anyway when in the position) and gave it a good tweak.
You have half guard on their left leg. Your right hand is ready to defend the crossface. Your left arm is underhooking their right leg. Ideally, this would be really deep, with their leg on your shoulder, but realistically you’ll just get a hand under their knee.
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When they go for the crossface, duck your head and swim your right hand under their armpit.
Shove their armpit and ribs to send their upper body away.
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Big Important Step: Switch your hips in them hard, like you want to go between their legs and under to go behind them. This hip movement and the shoving of their chest throws their weight forward.
When they’re knocked forward, bring your left leg up behind them and step on their near hip.
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Then bring your right leg up and step on the hip too. Use this to keep their weight off you.
They’ll likely stand and try to turn into you. This is like the one-legged guard shown above. Keep your feet on the hip and pinch your knees around his leg. Your right hand pushes on their far knee to prevent them from coming closer.
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The left foot comes off the hip and hooks under their far leg, the start of x-guard hooking.
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Then your right foot comes off the hip and hooks under their far knee. Presto chango, x-guard.
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Stupid Simple Scissors Sweep 9 November 2006 198 views One Comment While planning the stupid simple series, I decided to show how to do it off a failed scissors sweep. But then it struck me: in all my interneting, I’ve never seen a good and detailed scissors sweep tutorial. Those that I have found lack a lot of important details or are not even what I’d call a “scissors sweep”. So I resolved to shoot my own instructional of the move and put it up along side my stupid simple sweeps.
Here it is.
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Jon is in my closed guard with posture. I grab just under both his elbows. I don’t know which way I want to sweep him yet so I hold both arms.
The placement of this grip is more important that you probably realize. If I were to just hold his wrists, when I went for the sweep, even if I pulled his hand away, he’d still be able to drop his elbow to the mat and post on it. With this elbow grip, I can take his elbow and forearm away.
Starting to stand, Jon gets to his right foot.
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Seeing his right foot go up, I get a cross collar grip on the opposite side, since that’s the direction I’ll be sweeping him.
I’m sorry to say that I made an error in this photo. I should have reached under his arm to grab the collar, not over. It just gives you better inside control of his posture.
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I open my guard and straighten my left leg, making it heavy and stiff on his thigh. I use this to lift my hips, slide backwards and turn sideways.
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In addition to my Halloween underwear, from this angle you can see how I am stiffening my leg against his thigh to lift my hips, scoot back and turn on my side.
After scooting away and turning sideways, I drive my knee across his waist, so my shin is across his stomach and my foot is hooking his hips.
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From the other side, you can see how my knee has penetrated all the way to the other side. Also notice how my bottom leg is laying on the mat away from his knee. This space is important later when I want to chop out his knee.
Now I pull him forward to break his balance and lift him with my shin. But there’s more to this than you may realize—I know there is more than I realized. Most people will just pull down into themselves, with their elbows going down to the mat. This is weak for two reasons: that just pulls their weight down on to you and your elbows hit the ground before they can generate much power.
I train with a brown belt codenamed Mean Jeff whose number one sweep is the scissors and has been for years. Having been on the receiving end of it several thousand times, I can tell you that he’ll make you do airtime and flip over before hitting the ground, not just fall sideways as you do in drilling.
While teaching a class on nothing but the scissors sweep, Jeff showed how he does this. When he pulls them, he actually tries to bring his elbows over his head, like he wants them to fly over him. He said its like how judoka do kazushi for throws. The movement is what a Raspado, a purple belt in BJJ and green in judo, calls “looking at your watch”, where you bring your wrists up to your face.
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When you do this, you’ll feel their weight come off their legs, making them really easy to scissors now, since their center of gravity is no longer resting over them.
From the side, you can see how I’m doing “judo elbows” on him and taking his weight off his legs.
My bottom leg chops out his knee. When I do this, I make sure to slide it along the mat and hit them at the very bottom of their knee. Some people have a habit of lifting this leg and chopping them at the waist, which doesn’t take out their leg.
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Twisting my hips to come on top.
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Now in mount. Notice how I’m still holding the same collar and elbow grip. You can use this to take an armbar in the last photo instead of mounting, but that’s for another day.
I’ve seen a lot of people complain about the scissors sweep, usually about it being so basic that everyone can counter it. I think part of this is that too many people wish it were a one-shot sweep, like it should magically work the first try. Another lesson that came out of Jeff’s class is that, like with anything in BJJ, you need to have different setups and follow-ups for the scissors sweep to get the most out of it.
So below I present the equivalent of the stupid simple sweep as a follow-up to a failed scissors sweep.
As should be clear from my expression, I went for a scissors sweep but it failed. Jon was able to keep his base.
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I bring my bottom leg up and step on the inside of his knee.
Kicking out his knee, I scissors my top leg again and do judo elbows. You should know the extremely important detail on how I push the knee from the last two tutorials.
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Twisting my hips to come on top.
Mount with smugness.
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slideyfoot said: Thanks for this – in combination with the Abhaya vid you found on Google, provided me with the basics in order to get the scissor sweep working in class today. Awesome tutorial! :D # 20 December 2006 at 5:20 pm
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Johnny’s Butterfly Guard Passes 22 November 2006 74 views One Comment More from black belt John Simon. Here are two butterfly guard passes for your pleasure. I like both of these and use them quite regularly and successfully. I consider them “lazy” guard passes because to do them properly you get your grips and then “fall” past their guard.
The set-up involves having both of my knees on his hooks. My left hand reaches around his right leg and grabs the bottom of the pants on his left leg.
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From here I use my right hand to grab his left sleeve.
Then I simply fall onto my right side.
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My opponent will try and put me in guard which he can’t do because I’m controlling his legs.
Straighten my left arm away from my body and get to side control. This next pass is good to use when your opponent is sitting forward.
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Start with the same grip on his pants.
Next, grab his collar and pull him forward. You need to make sure that his weight is on his ass, not his legs so he can’t pull his head away. If he does manage to pull his head away, then go straight into a toreando guard pass.
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I bring my right knee up with my foot against his left hip and my knee in the gap between his body and his legs.
Then I simply fall onto my right side to pass.
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Complete into side control.
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blanko said: n i c e # 2 February 2007 at 6:29 pm
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Brabo Choke Homework 12 March 2007 782 views 2 Comments First off, watch this 44 minute brabo choke tutorial by Bjoern of Grappling.de. This is what got me in the mood to go over this move. The brabo choke (or whatever you want to call it) is a technique I’ve been practicing on and off for a while now. Recently, with my focus on no-gi chokes, I’ve once again devoted myself to analyzing and developing it. Since the beginning of my training, I’ve had a habit of collecting grappling information online and cataloging it. This article and its brabo choke tutorials, photos and descriptions gathered from all over the internet are a result of this compulsion. This choke, like it’s cousin the anaconda, has gone in and out of vogue several times in recent years. Its rise in popularity tends to follow a victory in competition. The problem is that with each new appearance, it takes on a new name. Grappling and Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu suffers from horribly disorganized and confusing terminology. I believe this can be a fairly serious (or at least annoying) obstacle to beginners. It also makes broadly sharing techniques difficult since everyone seems to have their own vernacular. You have to dig through a maze of Japanese, Brazilian and English—much of it slang—and deal with different arts having their own names for the same thing. What’s the difference between a kimura, a bent armlock, a keylock, a double wrist lock and ude garami? Not much, besides the name. We won’t solve all the problems of grappling taxonomy today, but I will try to make sense of the brabo choke and its various names. The first name I heard this choke given was “the Shaolin”, after Vitor “Shaolin” Ribeiro’s success with it. (Vitor also has another “Shaolin choke” with the gi.) Otto Olsen credited it as such after using it in ADCC. Later it came to share the name “brabo” with a lapel choke that is done from a similar position. I dug up a little history on this name. From an interview with Leo Vieira: Q: In the current edition of Grappling, Jacare is in demonstrating the Brabo choke and he
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mentioned that you used the choke a lot. A: Yes, I used it a lot, but I don’t know why they say I created it, as I always look to develop something and look at the white belts training and I saw a white belt use it something like that, and then I think ‘man, this can happen’ and then I worked on this position and everyone started to call it the Brabo choke; Kid Peligro put the name to it, he loves to put names for position (laughs). Q: Does the name mean anything, Brabo? A: It’s when something is aggressive and my old email used to be Leobrabo, then when I showed it to Kid, came up with the name Brabo and it kind of stuck. I believe he’s talking about the lapel choke, but like I said, they’re similar in terms of position and ended up with the same name. Most recently, it has taken on the name “the darce”, after Joe D’arce who was taught the move by “New Zealand” John Danaher (both are Renzo Gracie black belts). Joe visited Marc Laimon’s school and was catching guys with it, so Marc took it and taught it to guys like Jeff Glover and Bill “The Grill” Cooper. At tournaments, Marc began yelling “D’arce him! D’arce him!” to coach his guys, and his competition quickly adopted the name too. This spawned variants such as the Marce for Marc’s own setup and the Sharce for Shinya Aoki’s uchimata with whizzer to brabo choke. Baret Yoshida calls it a reverse guillotine. Shinya Aoki calls it the spinning choke. Ignoring the nicknames, you might objectively call it a reverse arm triangle. There are really too many names for this move. I’m not an authority, but I’ll explain the ones I use: Brabo – The arm triangle grip and submission, regardless of setup or position. Darce – A brabo choke setup using a gable grip to crank their head into position. Those are the only two names I use. (And I may switch to using “darce” exclusively, since it can’t be confused with any gi chokes.) Another common confusion about the brabo choke is how it is different than the anaconda choke. They often look like the same thing, but they’re not. Viewed from the front headlock (your opponent on all fours, facing you, and you sprawled with your chest on his back), the difference is how you triangle your arms. In the anaconda, your hand grips your biceps on the side of their trapped shoulder. In the brabo, your grip is on the side of their head. That’s basically it—you just close the arm triangle on different sides. This is still enough to change the positions the brabo choke is available and the mechanics of finishing it. Aside from the different names, the other time line you can follow is the availability of instruction on the move. It can be found all over the place now, but information on it used to be very scarce. The first time I read about the brabo choke online, I was told you could see Mike Fowler doing it in the
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Grapplers.com photo gallery. I dug around and found my first glimpse of the technique:
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Around the same time, someone on mma.tv took a photo of a Grappling magazine tutorial with Vitor Shaolin teaching it. I later found and scanned this same one myself:
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In the heyday of MMALibrary.com, I posted a collection of information on the brabo choke (much like I’m doing now). This inspired Christian Graugart to include it in his tutorial on countering the underhook escape from side control. He also showed a setup for it from reverse scarfhold in his new blog. Around this this time in 2005, I spoke to a brown belt who’d just trained down at Gracie Barra in Rio and he told me they were drilling the gi and no-gi brabo chokes. It wasn’t until Stephan Kesting put his interview and techniques with Marcio Feitosa up that we got our first real online brabo choke tutorials, gi and no-gi. Soca shows it from half guard in the preview for his no-gi DVD, including a good detail on the pressure to apply to finish the choke. Indrek taught it in the top game section of Functional Half Guard. A while back, I scanned a special Brazilian Top Team edition of Tatame magazine for it’s brabo choke tutorial. They show getting it from sideride, using a gable grip to force them to their back (as well as knees to the body, since it’s MMA).
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One of Joe D’arce’s teammates said this (minus the striking) is the signature way he does it. An aspect of the brabo that I found for myself and later saw in instructionals is that even when you can’t finish the submission, you can use it as a half guard pass. This is shown in Mayhem Miller’s video tutorial: Mayhem Miller Teaching the Darce
Rick Estrada of subfighter.com has done very good video instructionals of the brabo and its variations for a while now. Just recently, he released an 8 minute video on using a combination of grips to get it and other chokes that I found very helpful: Brabo Choke To Darce Grip Snap Back To DB-Darce Choke
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A sample of Shinya Aoki’s instructional DVD made its way on to youtube. His variaion shows the creativity that has gone into finding new setups for this choke. It’s come a long way from just being forced from half guard. Shinya Aoki Counters a Butterfly Guard Pass with the Brabo Choke
Joe Camacho recently put out a brabo choke tutorial where he passes guard to get it and finishes from north-south (which he feels is what makes it different than his darce). Jeff Rockwell shows my favorite brabo choke setup and finish in his no-gi chokes instructional. These are the main brabo choke resources available online. You can find even more in almost any recent grappling or MMA magazine and a number of instructionals, such as ones by Baret Yoshida, Marcelo Garcia, Shinya Aoki and Jeff Glover. From all these tutorials and setups, you can breakdown a number of factors: the range of positions it can be gotten from, the triggers positions to take it, the variety of grips used to cinch it, and the positions and mechanics for finishing the submission. By seeing how different body types and personalities approach the same move, you can gain a broader understanding of it and find a way that works best for you. I don’t do the brabo exactly like any of the tutorials I’ve shown here, but I’ve taken something away from all of them in one way or another. I’ll lay out what I’ve figured out from all this material later. You can chew on it by yourself for a while.
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OldDog53 said: I really like the way you compile various sources and put them in perspective. That’s much underrated. Plus you put all this material right at our fingertips. Kudos! # 12 March 2007 at 11:05 am
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OldDog53 said: Ok, I’m going to take a private lesson based on this tutorial. I’ve asked my instructor to review the clips here and then work with me on these chokes. # 4 May 2007 at 12:32 pm
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Rubber Guard Tutorial B-side 21 November 2006 207 views One Comment When I shoot the photographs for a tutorial, I’ll often run through the move several times from different angles to make sure I capture all the details and don’t need to reshoot later. As a result, I end up with a large number of photos that never make it into instructionals. The most extreme case of this was my first rubber guard tutorial, where I had shot the sequence once all the way through, but felt the angle didn’t show the grip changes well enough so I did it again. This left me with a ton of photos with nothing was particular “wrong” with them, just not meeting my personal standard. But rather than let these go to waste, I’ve decided to share them since 1) it’s nice to have a second angle on a move and 2) I think they offer some insight into how much flexibility I’m using, especially in my hips. So here’s the rubber guard to omoplatarmbar again.
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Gable grip on neck after breaking posture. Right foot on hip.
Mission control. Here is when to start judging how much flexibility I’m using.
Fist in place to zombie.
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Zombie complete. Jon’s arm is on the floor.
New York.
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New York from another angle.
Karate block my arm to the other side.
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Second angle.
Chill dog.
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More chill dog.
Begin kung fu move.
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Forearm and shin parallel.
Buddha palm strike to my ankle.
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To prevent the omoplata, Jon grabs my knee.
Grabbing his elbow.
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Yank the elbow, kick the leg, break the grip.
Triangling the legs around the arms.
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Grabbing the wrist to finish. So how much flexibility do I seem to be using? It didn’t feel at all extreme when I did it, but maybe I’m just a weirdo.
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Rogue said: Yeah, you’re just a wierdo. I know of what I speak. # 21 November 2006 at 4:08 pm
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Robson’s Guard, a Sweep and a Takedown 14 February 2007 130 views 2 Comments Leo and John have some new insight into and a slick sweep that build on the game taught to them by Robson Moura. From Leo: I watched my instructor, Edson Diniz, play this game last night. I didn’t even know that he could. One of the things I noticed is that the elevator sweep from here is much easier than from the normal butterfly guard. Here is why: When you have both hooks in you have to fall to your side. A common mistake most people make is that they fall to their back, then try to roll the person over. When I teach an elevator sweep from regular butterfly guard I tell them that they need to put their ear on the mat, this corrects this error much of the time, but not always. But if you have an underhook and the other leg is on the outside of his leg as you lift with the inside hook you are already on your side. Note the first picture here. My right leg is already turned sideways to the mat. In other words you really can’t do the sweep wrong. The common error that most people make is corrected with the foot position prior to the sweep. Edson did something else that was really cool that Robson didn’t do. When he had the underhook (the 4th picture here) and the guy had a whizzer on his arm and tried to force him to his back he reached under his whizzered arm with his right hand and grabbed the guy’s belt. He then spun under the arm and came up to get side ride position and take the back. It was a great move and when I practiced it it was pretty easy to do. I was showing this to John this weekend and he showed me something he has been having success with from Robson Moura’s game so we did a quick clip on it. The spin under really isn’t as hard to get as it might look. Here’s the clip:
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Eduardo, my instructor, teaches a takedown that this sweep reminds me of. I actually played around with doing the takedown from butterfly guard as a sweep. I got my hands on the photos he took of it for a Grappling Magazine piece he was in, so here it is: It’s going to be hard to understand the speed and momentum of this move from pictures alone, so just try to understand that you need to use a lot of both to get your opponent to flip over like shown. This a fast move and you don’t stop moving until it’s done.
You need to start by getting this grip from standing. When he grabs your lapel with his right hand, cross grip his sleeve and reach under it with your left hand to grab his lapel.
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Drop down and spin under their arm, like you’re doing a barrel roll.
Keep spinning and rolling on your back, trying to do a full rotation. The momentum and grip on their arm and lapel will force them to flip forward.
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Keep spinning and rolling as they flip over.
You should be rolling belly down as they land on their back.
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Come to your knees. You’ve still got control of his arm and lapel from the start of the move. From here you’ll need to drive into him and establish side control.
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Younghusband said: That takedown series is classic judo. Also found in Takenouchi Ryu. Just FYI. # 14 February 2007 at 4:48 am
monoplata said: yo my friends! here is an even more ridiculous choke by Robson Moura, along with like 20 other techniques that he showed at a seminar http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gafre3AS-HE&mode=related&search= enjoy, de nada! # 3 April 2007 at 11:33 am
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Johnny’s Butterfly Guard 21 November 2006 76 views No Comment Big thanks to John Simon of Dominance Mixed Martial Arts in Melbourne, Australia for sharing his guard game with us. I thought I’d put up some of my favourite guard techniques from my own game. The first picture is the standard way I use my guard, which I based off Margarida, although I do some things differently to him.
My right hand is in the collar. This allows me to do a few things: 1. Stop him putting his head on my hips to pass 09/06/2009 8:31
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2. Keeps him wary of my chokes 3. Gives me a good handle to control his posture. My left hand is controlling his sleeve to: 1. Stop him controlling both of my legs 2. Takes away one of his arms for passing.
The first sequence has me pulling my opponent forward. From here I can underhook the arm, move my body underneath his and sweep him to my left. Make sure with this position that you keep pulling the guy forward really hard with the hand controlling his belt so he has to post with his hand. You can also go to the back quite easily from this position as well as do a whole bunch of other sweeps.
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The next sequence is one of my favourite submissions from here. When the guy posts after I pull him forward, I underhook his arm and apply a cutting armlock.
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This next sequence is one I use a lot to get the butterfly sweep. After I pull the guy forward, he pulls back and postures up. I grab his wrist with my right hand, join my left shoulder to his body and pull him in tight with my left hand then sweep him to my right.
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This next sequence is for when my opponent is trying to posture up and back off.
I change my grip from his sleeve to his knee.
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I then drive with my right hand and pull with my left.
From here, go straight into a knee-through guard pass. I find the problem with the underhooks and overhooks that people show for butterfly guard is that they don’t show how to get them. Anyone can sweep somebody if they’ve got the grips, but how do you stop someone passing while you’re attempting to get those grips? Another advantage of the grips I’ve shown is the cross-lapel choke. I probably get this submission more than any other from the guard.
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With the grips I’ve shown, if the guy starts to turn to pass to my right and exposes his neck, I can go for the cross-lapel choke. The first thing I do is straighten my right leg to hook his right knee and buy myself some time.
Then I nearly strike the guy’s neck with the blade of my left hand.
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After that, I grab a bunch of his gi (with my thumb NOT in – it takes too long) on his back.
Then fall back and make myself like a ball so he can’t get past my guard or mount me.
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An Omoplata Control Position 12 February 2007 97 views 3 Comments I’ve seen and been taught many ways of controlling the opponent while going for an omoplata. The most common I see is to grab the belt. Depending on the setup, some have you hug the knee/thigh to your shoulder. Eddie teaches the jiu-claw, hugging behind both thighs. They’ve all worked okay for me, but lately I’ve been doing this, after seeing my instructor do it a lot and having him show it to me:
I am grabbing the end of the pant leg and straightening my arm to stretch it up and away. I keep scooting my hips away and making my leg heavy, like I want to touch my hamstring to the ground, to pressure their shoulder down. If they try to lift their leg and step over me, I just keep stretching their leg up and away. Every time I do this, they are forced to go flatter and flatter, taking away their base. 09/06/2009 8:59
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If they try to roll forward, I just keep stretching their leg back and away, and they can’t. Once I feel I’ve got them broken down enough (e.g. no posture, almost on their belly, shoulder on the floor), I’ll sit up and start grabbing the belt or hips, climbing up the back and getting upper body control, like the haress grip or grabbing the far lapel. Then I arrange my legs and sit up and drive forward to finish. You can try this no-gi by grabbing the ankle, but like all no-gi grips like this, it’s not as strong. Give it a try and let me know how it goes.
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Raspado said: This crap is fake. Doesn’t work. :) # 12 February 2007 at 10:18 am
JohnJ said: hes right it is fake that guy your holding could have gotten out if he wanted to # 28 February 2007 at 2:26 pm
jtothex said: I tried this last night and it worked like a charm, although the guy I tapped out was different from the guys I normally have trouble tapping out with an omoplata, so you could argue that my method isn’t all that scientific. He was a blue belt, though, so… # 12 February 2009 at 12:25 pm
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Johnny’s Triangle Escapes 18 November 2006 392 views No Comment Black belt John Simon of Dominance Mixed Martial Arts in Melbourne, Australia has more escapes to share. This time it’s getting out of the triangle. I’ve also done some escapes from the triangle choke. There’s nothing really “out-there” with these escapes, but they’re good solid escapes. The first one is probably the easiest to pull off if you’re a white belt and you get caught with your butt in the air.
You’re stuck in a triangle.
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Push your fist into the mat next to your opponent’s head, across your body, and stand. Keep your weight bearing down on your opponent so he can’t even think about throwing a leg over your head to do an armbar.
Now bring your right leg over his head.
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Grab his left leg, either hold his leg in place or straighten your arms as you fall back to release the triangle. This next escape is probably the most correct escape to learn because it teaches posture.
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Start by grabbing your opponent’s belt with both hands and getting your knees as deep under your opponent as possible.
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Now posture up, and drag your opponent up half up your body. Look to the ceiling when you first practice this technique so that you have to have good posture.
Now that the choke is no longer on, start moving your knees back, bring your left arm through and grab your own right forearm.
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Keep moving your body back until you can duck your head out of his legs.
Bring your left arm around, grab your opponent’s lapel and start to work your basic guard pass. This last escape is one of my favorites. If I get caught bad, this is my “goto” escape.
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Grab your opponent’s left knee with both of your hands.
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Then you need to “run” sideways and nail your opponent’s knee to the floor. As you do this you “strike” him with your right hip against his butt cheeks.
Keep hip-bumping into your opponent and shrugging your head out of his legs until your head is free.
Now pass to his back. Notice I grab the back of my opponent’s collar and pull it hard towards myself so he can’t lift his butt in the air and put me back in guard. You can also check out my counter to this escape. (No Ratings Yet)
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The Shinplata 2 February 2007 162 views No Comment A while back, Jeff Rockwell sent me a tutorial for a move he calls the shinplata. He didn’t want me to share the pictures until he could get better footage of it. Thankfully, that day has come. Check it:
A nice little move to retain your guard, sweep, or reverse your opponent. Sorry if it seems a bit rushed, I only had a few minutes to shoot this clip! (I should be stiff-arming his armpit while my shin is inserted, and gripping farther across his back on the belt.) Careful observers will see my son, the future BJJ champ of the world, watching videos in the background. You might think he’s watching Elmo, but no, it’s Mundial highlights! ;) For the sake of completeness, I am also including the original pictures and explanations Jeff sent me since I think they help flesh out the instruction.
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Intro This series of techniques is a combination of a few different strategies of guard retention and sweeping. It is part omoplata, part north-south escape, and part all its own thing. I use it all the time and with the proper timing and energy, it works even against opponents who underpass the guard tightly with a lot of pressure. Though it is shown here with the gi, it also works very well no-gi – though I find I usually end up with the reversal than the sweep. I apologize in advance for the grainy quality of the pictures, they were “cut” from live video. Part 1 In this first picture, my partner Mike is beginning a stacking underpass. He could have one leg on his shoulder, or both; he could even be passing a failed triangle choke attempt. The technique works the same for them all.
As he pressures forward and begins to turn the corner, I will place my right palm on his left hip, just to slow him down for a moment. Then I will thrust my hips as high as possible into the air. Depending on how tightly he is passing, sometimes you are only able to create a few inches of space. Once you get good at this, a few inches is all you will need. As my hips reach their highest point, I will straighten my right arm and place the web of my hand in his right armpit, bracing him here for just a moment.
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I will now quickly drop my hips and slide my right knee and shin underneath the bend of his left arm. My right hand will guide and control his elbow, while my left hand will control his wrist.
My left foot is on the ground, helping me to pivot my body around so that we are facing in the same direction, and I maintain tight control of his arm.
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Now I quickly take my right hand and secure a tight grip on his belt or pants. Sitting all the way up and reaching across his waist to control his far hip is also an option, just more difficult to get. We will address what happens if you are not able to control his belt or waist a little later.
Now keeping tight control of his left wrist or sleeve, I will extend my hips and drive with my right shin, sweeping him forward. I will also use my belt or waist grip to push and guide him over. NOTE: my right elbow should be over top of his left thigh here, to block Mike’s legs from spinning over top of me. If that happens, I will have to abandon the sweep and switch to the reversal. In any case, it is shown correctly a little later on.
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Here you can see that I am not trying to drive him straight over his head, but forward and then to the side.
I start to take the top position, still controlling his arm with my shin on his bicep and my grip on his wrist or sleeve.
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I sit up and momentarily establish a knee ride position on his arm, still pulling up on his sleeve or wrist. There are a number of options from here…
…but the easiest and most reliable is to drive your right elbow down to the mat underneath his right armpit…
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And slide down towards his legs to a reverse scarf hold position.
Part 2 Okay, let’s rewind for a minute and look at some potential problems you’ll run into and variations you’ll have to employ. In this first picture, I have been able to drop my shin under his armpit, get to the side, and control his arm. Unfortunately, he stabilizes his base very quickly and I am caught “hanging out” in this position, with my foot dangling right in front of Mike’s face.
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Now, if Mike was strong, aggressive, and liked lower body submissions (WHICH HE IS and DOES! J), he might be able to rip his left arm out of my grip, attack my foot with a fig.4 toe-hold…
…and make me tap out and beg for my momma. Now against your average guy, this really is not much of a threat. He has no control over my leg, hips, or upper body here, he only has his figure 4 grip around my ankle. Usually, I am able to simply extend my right leg, bring my left leg into play to break his grip, and turn to face him with an open guard. Against aggressive leg lock specialists, however, you may not want to risk it, as they can sometimes create enough pressure to do real damage even without controlling the leg. So…
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If you get caught “hanging out” in this position, you may want to triangle your right foot behind your left knee for added security.
You can still execute the sweep just fine, you just have to change the angle of your hips slightly.
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Another option to protect your feet and actually add more power to the sweep is to keep control of his arm, lift it slightly to make a little space…
…and insert your left shin underneath his arm as well. Now you have double the sweeping power, and you can cross your ankles to prevent any footlock attacks.
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Here is Mike going over with both shins controlling his arm. Notice how (this time) my right arm is in the correct position, clamping down on his left hip/butt/thigh. This is so that he can’t jump his legs to the left over my body during my sweep.
Another angle of the sweep…
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…and the finish. As with the first sweep, I am going to post my left leg out wide for base, and continue to pull up hard on his left sleeve or wrist. From here I can slide down to reverse scarf hold, spin to knee on belly, or attack with my “flying-reverse-cowhand-ten-finger-double-top-wrist-lock-choke”. Sorry, that one is secret, I just can’t tell you… it’s too dangerous for the ring. Only Ninjas, Navy SEALS, and pressure-point fighters can be trusted with that type of knowledge.
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Johnny’s Armbar Escapes 17 November 2006 103 views 2 Comments Here is another tutorial from black belt John Simon of Dominance Mixed Martial Arts in Melbourne, Australia. This time he’s covering armbar escapes using a figure-four grip. I’ve got some pictures and descriptions for counters to armbar. My partner is Murray Ballenden, an accomplished and extremely good brown belt.
Basic Grip
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This first picture is the set-up for the first two defences. I like this defence a lot because it’s simple and it also allows for counters to kimura. It’s basically a figure-four with the arms, with one hand on the bicep, the other with the back of the hand on the forehead.
Armbar from Side Control Escape
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The first defence is when the guy has mount with one knee up. He has my right arm underhooked and is going to armbar it. My right hand is on my left bicep and my left hand is on my forehead.
As Murray puts his left leg over my head, my left hand grabs the back of his knee.
As Murray sits back, my left arm starts to straighten.
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Finally, I straighten my left arm, pushing his top leg away, and pull my right arm free.
Armbar from Guard Escape The next counter is for the armbar from guard.
Murray controls my right arm ready to armbar me.
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I put my right hand on my left bicep and my left hand on my forehead.
As Murray attempts to throws his leg over my head, my left hand catches it on the back of the knee.
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Once again, I straighten my left arm and pull my right arm free.
Armbar from Mount Escape This last armbar is a counter from under mount.
I grab my wrists and wait for my opponent to sit back.
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As my opponent throws his top leg over my head I throw my arms to the floor above my head, throwing his leg off.
I then move my body up, over his top leg, pinning it and stopping him from coming back on top of me. To finish I would then spin and end up in my opponent’s guard. Triangle escape coming up next. (No Ratings Yet)
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Bunnymonster said: I thought I was the only one who had come up with the “rear naked choke/grab behind the leg” escape. What do you do if your opponent switches straight away to the bicep slicer? Keep up the excellent posts Paul # 17 November 2006 at 11:56 am
Dochter said: Count that as at least three independent developments. I’ve never been put into a bicep slicer from this so can’t help you there. # 20 November 2006 at 3:17 pm
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Five Swords Top Game 5 January 2007 184 views One Comment Christian Graugart of Combat Sports Academy in Copenhagen, Denmark was happy to share a tutorial with me so I could put it up on the journal. It was his site MMALibrary.com and the incredible tutorials he produced that first inspired me to start putting my own techniques online. I had always thought he set the standard for online tutorials, so it is an honor to get to share one of his.
A simple way of thinking about top game I have played this top game for quite a while now, but it is not until recently that I actually started to think about what I have been doing. I am trying to think a little outside the box position-wise, so the game has no fixed positions, nor does it follow the fundamental five for top game. For many years I have been fixed in the 3 basic top game positions, but this new way of putting my game in a system has completely thrown that away for me. Positions are now kind of made up along the way. May sound silly, but works really well for me. It is really simple. All I think about when playing top game is controlling at least one of five parts of my opponent’s body, in this text called “control points”. Each control point has an objective which is fulfilled if I grab one or more “handles” for that body part. If I control one or more I am OK; if I control none, I have to turn it up and get one quickly. And apart from being aware of the guard, that is all I do to prevent my opponent from escaping. I don’t block the guard with hand/foot/hip always, as some of the “handles” for the control points makes it impossible for my opponent to pull guard anyway. Nor do I worry too much about my opponent getting the underhook, as many of the handles combined with correct weight distribution will nullify that completely. What these handles do is of course “just” to keep my opponent either flat or turned away from me, which prevents him from escaping in other ways than turning away from me. If he choose to do that, I attack the back. Below, I have listed the control points, the objectives and some examples of “handles” that I grab to control as many of the five as possible. There are probably more, but these are what I use. In the bottom, I have posted a little video clip, where I play this top game in isolation.
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Hope this is useful for someone out there :) —-
Here are the five control points:
1. The head 2. The near side elbow 3. The near side knee 4. The far side knee 5. The far side shoulder
Ze Master Gameplan: Prevent opponent from turning into you by controlling at least one of the five control points. Preferably two or more. Be aware of the guard If opponent gets on his side, move 180 degrees around his head and control handles on opposite side right away. If opponent turns away from you, go to harness. —-
Control point one – The head Objective: Keep head turned up or away from you.
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Crossface / Shoulder of Justice.
Use forearm to turn head.
Skullride.
Prybar.
Grab shoulder for one-armed prybar.
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Grab gi behind neck for one-armed prybar.
Control point 2 – The near side arm Objective: Keep elbow from touching the mat.
Lift arm above elbow.
Hold elbow up using thigh.
Kill arm using hip.
Sprawl on arm.
Control point 3 – The near side knee Objective: Keep knee from touching the mat.
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Scissor grip with hand.
Scissor grip with foot.
Grab leg and lift.
Lift knee with thigh.
Control point 4 – The far side knee Objective: Keep knee from crossing opponents centerline. Underhook leg – diaper check.
Scissor grip with hand.
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Scissor grip with foot.
Control Point 5 – The far side shoulder Objective: Keep shoulder touching the mat
Underhook and put weight on shoulder.
Overhook and put weight on shoulder. —Now all you have to do to play top game is control at least one of these at all times :) Here is a little video clip of me playing around with this in some isolation:
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I don’t move very well in this clip because I have a f*cked up back injury, I am going to make a new clip when my back gets better. But you probably get the idea. I control at least one point always using the handles. If my opponent turns into me, I go 180. If he turns away, I take the back. Now go play ze zhoozhits! -Christian, SBGi Denmark (Thanks to Ken Allen for the help on the pics and video)
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PKN said: Mike Chapman calls this “tether”. Graugart explains it really well though. Now all we need is equally good explanations for “glide” and “pike”. “Pike” in particular needs a good instructional. # 23 January 2007 at 6:19 am
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Side Choke Sweep from Butterfly Guard 17 November 2006 91 views No Comment Jeff Rockwell of The Oregon Pound has a slick butterfly guard sweep to side choke that he was happy to share. Hey, I thought I’d try to add this to your technique archive. Let me know if it makes sense. I was doing this move a lot last year, forgot about it, then brought it back against a 280 pound wrestler a few nights ago. This move works especially well when your opponent crosses his feet and commits his weight on his hands when you rock him forward.
Here you start in butterfly guard with double underhooks, your forehead under his neck on one side.
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Rock your opponent straight back, as if you were going to roll him directly forward over his head. He will post with both hands to prevent this. This opponent is wary, however, and crosses his feet as he posts with his arms to prevent his legs being attacked for submissions or sweeps.
As his weight is suspended above you, you must simultaneously perform several movements. The first is to place your left hand under his right armpit to hold his upper body in place…
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Then weave your right hand (in this example) from under his left arm, and shoot it past the left side of his neck; Then duck your forehead underneath his right armpit, as you shoot your right arm deeply past his neck, until your right bicep rests against the left side of his neck.
Immediately clasp your hands palm to palm behind his right shoulder, as you pinch your right ear toward the opponent’s right ear.
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Shift your hips to the right, post your left foot on the ground, and perform a butterfly hook sweep to the left.
Straighten both legs as you finish the sweep for maximum power and extension, then immediately raise your hips and perform a cross knee guard pass to the left, passing to side control while maintaining your head and arm lock.
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Sprawl your hips flat to the mat and walk clockwise towards his head to finish the side choke. Finish with the Aurelio Method (as uploaded by Jeff Rockwell) and you’ll be all set. (No Ratings Yet)
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Simple Anaconda Choke Escape 15 January 2007 115 views 3 Comments Sorry about the lack of updates over the last week. With my neck injury and flu, I’ve been out of training, and so I haven’t had a chance to shoot new tutorials. I just got back to class today, and I made sure to shoot a ton of photos for instructional I had planned. It was to be about a defense to the anaconda choke, and re-countering it with a brabo choke. Unfortunately, all of the photos came out horribly, except this one, and I’m not too crazy about it either. At least the technique is good.
I’m doing a simple and easy defense to the anaconda choke. With my trapped arm, I’m grabbing behind my opposite leg and mule kicking. This creates space around my neck and forces his arm triangle to loosen. From here, I just hang out until they release the failed anaconda.
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I plan to explore arm triangles, anaconda and brabo chokes in greater depth soon. You’ll just have to wait while I reshoot everything to keep standards up.
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crabjuice said: This is similar to an escape from an arm triangle that my instructor showed last week. You use your free hand to pull the opponent’s elbow down to create some breathing space. Then you bring your knees up to your face and use the trapped arm to grab the knee of the opposite leg (if the left arm is trapped you grab the right leg) or to create a better hold you grip the knee with both hands. Then use your legs to create momentum and you can sit up and reverse into side control. # 16 January 2007 at 1:10 am
WhiteShark said: Nice T-shirt! Brock is my martial inspiration! # 16 January 2007 at 10:14 am
Garbanzo Bean said: DHS approves of both the technique and the Venture Bros tee. # 16 January 2007 at 11:27 pm
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Ezekiel with Your Own Lapel 15 November 2006 109 views No Comment Chris Colquitt from the Atama BJJ Forum on mma.tv created a tutorial for a great technique. I helped him with the image hosting and he was generous enough to let me repost his tutorial. Here it is: This is one of my favorite chokes. I picked it up from Jorge Jimenez, a Pedro Sauer blackbelt. Let me know what you think. I’m being nice to my partner by not applying a lot of pressure since we had to hold poses for a second or three for the camera to get a good picture. I thought it a good idea not to make him pass out.
To start, you need to grab the end of your lapel near the tip.
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Next, underhook his head with your left hand and drop your right elbow inside the lapel so it wraps over your arm. It takes a little getting used to to do this.
Now feed that lapel to your left hand and your right will slip UNDER the lapel.
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Now the fun part. Your right hand comes up and around the lapel, across his throat and under your left arm. I prefer going under, I know some people will just grab the sleeve and apply pressure. Pull with the left hand, push with the right. His neck should be stuck in a triangle that is getting smaller and smaller.
For a really mean finish, put a leg up and use it to brace yourself as you apply the pressure. Let me know what you guys think. I’ve seen people complain that moves that use the lapels like this are “too complicated”, but I disagree. I’ve gotten a lot of the “tricky” lapel stuff to work on guys my level and slightly better. I’ve seen Marcio Feitosa and Carlos Gracie both teach moves with wrapping lapel grips, ranging from setting up armbars 09/06/2009 8:34
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from guard to maintaining spider guard. Last year, a visiting brown belt did a ton of moves where he’d wrap the lapels around, ranging from ways to keep them from escaping the turtle to playing open guard. These lapel grips were getting really popular for a while. Here are a couple more “skirt moves” from the famous Bill Jones: Skirt choke from the back North-south skirt choke Skirt cross choke Foo foo skirt choke Half guard pass with skirt Skirt guard pass Skirt armbar
Two more by Andreh: Shaolin choke Ninja choke
Jacare has used this lapel choke successfully in competition. And the gi brabo choke by Marcio Feitosa, which is a grip you can also do from guard. So again, lapel “tricks” like this aren’t too strange or hard to make work. You just need to practice them like any other move.
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The Theory of Game Plans 3 January 2007 139 views 9 Comments This article began as a response to readers asking me about how I prepared for tournament. Then it was to offer insight into how I got my purple belt. Most recently, it’s how I’m filling a request that I discuss the theory of Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu more, not just the application. Let’s see if I can’t hit all those targets. During the weeks leading up to the tournament, I was training without any direction in mind. I was still trying out new moves, playing with open guards, switching focus every couple days, some x-guard here, taking the back there, all sorts of chokes and sweeps. This is what I call “The Fun Game”. The Saturday before the tournament, my instructor Eduardo grabbed me for a round of sparring. I kept trying to pull all of the funky fresh moves, and he just kept crushing them with controlled pressure and weight. After Eduardo drove through my guard and tapped me for the fifth or sixth time, I decided I had to change what I was doing. I don’t know how yet, I just knew I had to do something different. The next time we started, I just did what came naturally and immediately jumped to the tightest triangle possible and started aggressively attacking the trapped arm. From inside the choke, Eduardo wheezed “Yes! That’s it!” At the end of the round, Eduardo told me “I’m giving you pressure where you need it.” I didn’t appreciate what this meant until a week later, after the tournament. The rest of the week leading up to the competition, all I did was drill and train my high guard. This is what I call “The Game Plan”. Suddenly, none of the other blue belts could touch me. I even started regularly catching purple belts who I’d never thought I had a chance with before.
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Going into the tournament, I was calm and confident. Having a game plan eliminated all of the “But what if he…?” thoughts that run through most people’s minds. I won 3 of my matches by submission, exactly as I had practiced. Even in the matches that were won differently, I was always able to keep myself on track by working towards my goals, as ingrained by drilling my game plan. I would like to share the theory behind this mindset, using the two extreme ends of my personal games to illustrate it.
The Fun Game Open, loose, flowing, experimental.
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In everyday training, I’ll play around with new positions, like the one above, which comes from Roleta’s upside down guard and helicopter sweeps. I’ll see how far I can go with a new grip or hook. When I’m playing like this, I’m not overly concerned with maintaining position or getting my guard passed, which is fine for sparring, but will get me smashed if they’re serious, like in tournament.
The Game Plan Closed, tight, constrictive, conventional.
If I’m serious, I’m going to snap on the tightest closed guard ever, relentlessly break posture and climb up as high as possible. From there I’m going to lock my guard over one shoulder and attack the neck and arms and look for triangles and omoplatas. I know exactly what I want and I’m going to go straight for it—they know what I want, but they are going to go through hell to escape. You will develop your own style, so I’m not saying you must have a tight closed guard like this. You could apply this line of thinking to any position, and in fact, all positions as a whole. I’m simply using my personal style of guard to illustrate the more important point of finding your ideal game plan. The take-away lesson here is the different mindsets of these two games, and knowing when to use them. In my fun game, I’m playing with possibilities: “Can I? Can he? What if? Let’s see.” In my game plan, I’m working towards inevitabilities: “If I… If he… I will. He will.” Don’t mistake imposing your game with muscling moves. You should be as technical as you can be and not force a square peg into a round hole. But you should be working towards definite goals. Don’t confuse being technical with being lazy.
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Building a comprehensive game plan is intermediate theory, and requires intermediate skill, so I don’t recommend all of you run out and make one. Beginners shouldn’t worry about this too much. Especially as a white belt and for much of blue belt, you just won’t yet know enough to put together a comprehensive game plan. Nor do I think you really need one at that point. At that time, you’re still learning and collecting basic techniques, working on defenses and escapes, developing gross motor skills like bridging and shrimping hip movement. These are more important than a game plan, since they are the foundation that the rest of your training (game plan included) will be built on. The one exception to this is when you’re preparing for a tournament, but then the depth and level of detail in the game plan should match your skill level. For example, my white belt game plan was simply “Close the bamboos. Climb the bamboos. Turn turn turn”, which is to say “Close guard. Climb. Turn your hips.” Anything more complicated than that would have been lost on me then. With all this talk about the importance of a solid game plan, I don’t want you to think that the fun game isn’t also important. You could also call it the “learning game”, since it is where you have a chance to try new moves. The danger of a game plan is stagnating by never gaining skill outside of it. When someone comes along who has an answer to your A-game, you need a plan B to fall back on. The fun game is a needed balance to the game plan because it takes you outside of your comfort zone, which is important to expanding and improving your overall game. In this article I have only just described the concept of game plans in a general sense. In later ones, I will go deeper into the specifics of how to choose the specific positions and techniques. I’ve never seen anyone write a piece on strategy like this before. I know when I was telling people about this article, they were overjoyed since they’d always wished someone would lay this topic out clearly, so they could have learned these lessons before they went into a tournament with no game plan and got smashed. I’m happy to help fill the void, and if you’d like to see more, please consider supporting the journal so I can continue to share.
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OldDog53 said: You cheated. You didn’t talk about the purple thingy. You seem to be a bit of a phenom – the blue was fast, but the hallowed purple, which most instructors seem a LOT more reticent to hand out, also came fast, right? It would be nice to hear how things clicked for you – whether it came from massive amounts of mat hours, natural talent, extra conditioning or a history of athletics, study on the side, etc. We have to assume luck didn’t play much of a part. :-) It would also be fun to hear about training, conditioning, diet, the foundations on which a long, sustained, and demanding practice rest, and which don’t get discussed much at the academy (but
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get discussed too much, in a disorganized fashion, on the internet). For example: 1. How many days of group classes per week do you take? How many do you recommend for others, and does skill level/experience make a difference? 2. How frequent are your injuries, how serious, what is your strategy – grin and bear it, work around them, triage and only take time off for injuries that won’t heal if you throw more rolling at them…. 3. How do you balance the demands of work (school), social life, etc. (One guy at our academy admitted that he is happy his gf lives out of state since it gives him more time to practice!) 4. Do you exercise with weights, kettlebells, bodyweight exercises? After class? On days alternating with classes? 5. Do you do any extra drilling, beyond shrimps etc. in class? Do you see benefits from doing extra conditioning drills that are jits specific? In short, there seems to be a need for a concise beginner’s guide to jiu jitsu. Not a book, but a syllabus for the semester ahead. Not a road map, but a checklist. Not the peripheral items, but the essentials. Cliff Notes for the first year of life on the mat. (And not a guide to being another Aeso; just a guide for the “average student” who wants to end the year “better than average.) # 3 January 2007 at 5:58 pm
Dochter said: Nice write-up. Something most of us probably do implicitly but rarely explicitly. One of the problems I have is imposing my game on others (three blues in particular, my main competition at this rank). The difficulty lies in their imposing their game (which seems to mainly be crushing me from top) on me. I end up playing catch-up the entire time. Obviously that is partly due to holes in my execution. # 3 January 2007 at 8:08 pm
Bunnymonster said: And this my friends is what Llyod Irvin charges bajillions of dollars for… I think everyone needs to work on a gameplan, it was the one huge thing I took away from watching “the Twister” a few years ago and it made me realise that all of the top guys only really use five or six moves in competition. They are great not because they know more moves but because they know them better than you do. My biggest problem now is being motivated to train the “A-Game” as I find it boring and repetetive. I guess I need to get back into competing, once my knee is repaired… Nice post btw. # 4 January 2007 at 1:14 am
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Tenebrous said: Olddog, I think he progressed so quickly by being so clearly obsessed and technical. But I want the answers to your questions too. :) # 4 January 2007 at 1:29 am
Aesopian said: I don’t have any broad reaching advice on all of those points to offer at the moment but I can answer your specific questions. 1. I usually go to group classes at least once per day Monday through Saturday. Sometimes twice. I’ll sometimes take a day off if I’m feeling beat up or have other important things to do, but usually only if I’ve already got in 3-4 classes already. I recommend training as much as you can (balanced against injuries and burn out). Three times per week is probably the ideal for most people, since it gives you time to rest but is still enough to improve. Two classes may be okay for maintenance but difficult to make gains in. One class is not enough for anyone. 2. I usually have some kind of injury, ranging from annoying to serious. I’ll often train through less serious stuff like cauliflower ear, jammed fingers, sore joints, a generally beat up feeling, etc. I will take time off to heal if I have a serious and acute injury like a popped elbow, twisted knee, bizarre hip injury (that only I seem to get). Right now, for example, I have a pulled back muscle from yesterday which I expect to heal by tomorrow with some stretching. Nothing serious. But I also tore something in my abdominal muscles three weeks which has yet to heal, and it may be a hernia. It has gotten progressively worse so I am planning on seeing a doctor, though I’ll probably keep training too and just trying to baby the spot. You need to know your own body and be able to tell which injuries to ignore, which need a little rest and ice to heal, and which should stop training and require a doctor. 3. I don’t have a day job any more and I don’t go to school. My social life is after class and on the weekends. 4. I don’t do any conditioning like that. Unless you count stretching. 5. I do a lot of extra drilling and functional exercises after class and on Sunday open mats. I think this is extremely valuable. This is where most of my extra conditioning comes from. # 4 January 2007 at 2:00 am
Rogue said: I love that you mentioned “climb the bamboos”. Though some of the effect is lost when you can’t hear Eduardo’s voice as he yells that across the mat… or see the other guy’s face when he realizes 09/06/2009 9:03
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he doesn’t know how to defend it, because he doesn’t know what “bamboos” are. # 4 January 2007 at 9:41 am
OldDog53 said: Thanks Aeso. Your point by point reply to my longish post is very helpful. In particular, this advice is golden for me: “I recommend training as much as you can (balanced against injuries and burn out). Three times per week is probably the ideal for most people, since it gives you time to rest but is still enough to improve. Two classes may be okay for maintenance but difficult to make gains in. One class is not enough for anyone.” It’s great to hear that three classes a week is the tipping point where you can make real progress. I haven’t hit that magic number yet, but I’m getting there. I originally started with a single class a week – I am in my 50’s so it was pretty daunting to take ANY class that was a lot like competing in a tournament every week (the rolling is pretty intense at our academy since it is located near a major university and we get a lot of younger, athletic students, often with a wrestling or judo background, who are really balls to the wall – think several merciles AJ’s). Increasing to two classes a week was the first major step for me – plenty of time to heal (although at the time I thought my bruises were getting bruises and my injuries were getting injuries). Then I found that two classes a week still weren’t enough to make tangible gains – at least not when my classmates were doing three or more. Trying to improve my general fitness level in between classes with weights, conditioning drills, and stretches was helpful, but no subsitute for more training. Without consciously planning it, my first step to getting in more mat time, even before I upped to twice a week at the academy, was to take some private lessons from one of 10th Planet’s brown belts. I thought I was just learning a little about no-gi vs. gi, but in fact I was learning general jiu jitsu principles and applications, and after a while started rolling with the instructor, as well as being shown movements. At first I was apprehensive about rolling at all with someone who’d been a wrestler and a bjj tournament competitor, but unlike the over-the-top group rolling at the academy, he eased me into rolling gradually and progressively moderated his resistance and counters, turning rolling into an instructional, as opposed to a purely competitive experience. Of course at the end of a session he’d tell me he wasn’t going to hold back, so I could get a full feel for things, and that was also eye opening. I’ve now finally bitten the bullet and signed up for private lessons at my own academy, lessons that will carry me through the summer, from my own instructor. I was very happy to find out that, unlike the two instructionals I had observed earlier at the academy, where the instructor called out solo drills to the student or the student worked out with another student while the instructor guided them, in my series of lessons the instructor will actually be rolling with me, no training dummy. I think that rolling with a Brazilian black belt is going to really teach (my body) something about the game. I only hope he does the progressive thing, instead of just crashing me into an immediate wall of frustration and helplessness. So while I haven’t hit the magic number of three classes (rolls) per week, I have hit a consistent twice a week schedule, with private lessons here and there so that most weeks I am on some sort of mat three times a week. This doesn’t leave much time to watch my hallowed DVD instructionals
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(and I’ve never been able to get Gustavo Machado’s Great Escapes to work for me consistently), but I still pull out Mastering Rubber Guard when I’m – ahem – in the el bano and review a section or two (that’s probably my most valuable book, it’s laid out so buffet style). This is my sixth month of practice. The most important lesson I’ve learned at this point is that no matter how much I dance around the issue, or look for substitute ways to advance (private lessons, DVDs, conditioning) there is simply, at the end of the day, no substitute for rolling. Unfortunately rolling is daunting at times (although I don’t dread rolling with some particularly tough class mates the way I used to), and I literally get/feel “beat up” after each such session. So I’m glad to hear that 3 classes, and not 5 classes, a week is the “magic number!” I am also happy to hear that the Aeso has made progress at Eduardo de Lima’s – even against the athletic onslaughts of the Darth Vader-ish, athletic AJ – primarily through dedication and technique rather than extreme weight lifting etc. But please expand on your point #5 at some future date – for example what kinds of extra functional exercises do you do. I have now purchased Kesting’s Drills DVD (grin of shame) so if you have pulled some favorite drills out of there, please let me know. # 4 January 2007 at 12:52 pm
camarao said: Aesopian is no cheater! He’s also not a phenom but just an average guy with a big work ethic. Much like anything really worthwhile, there are no secret shortcuts. BJJ is one of the most honest martial arts out there and you will get you back exactly what you put into it—no more or less. Aesopian not only works his butt off on this website, he’s no keyboard warrior and is on the mat more than most (sometimes even when the academy is closed). If he’s training 6-7 times a week sometimes twice a day and the average bear gets 2-3 classes a week in… I’m not mathematically inclined but I think most others can figure it out. I’m with you OldDog53! It helps to be young with time to burn. I think Aesopian mentioned a back injury in a post and explained some stretching he did to recover in a day or so. I once saw him get his elbow popped in a sparring session and he used his youthful powers to heal it between matches. Since you can’t rewind time, just quit working to train more and start AesopianII.com to become independently wealthy ;-). In all seriousness, I think a decent recipe for anyone to achieve some kind of personal success in BJJ would be: Train all you can, spend any of your daydreaming time on BJJ and always come to class with at least one question in mind, always spar with different people, and (injuries permitting) spar a minimum of 3 matches every class. I think this what our instructor has communicated to me over the years without actually verbalizing it. It works. Rank is nice, but what’s nicer is what it really represents—the knowledge to back it up. Congrats on all your accumulated knowledge in such a “short time” Aesopian. I’m happy for you buddy. # 5 January 2007 at 11:07 pm
ZakS said: Sorry to be commenting on this topic nearly a year late but I just found this journal a week or two ago from sherdog.
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I have been thinking ALOT about this topic lately, game plan vs. no game plan. i think there are great benefits to both; no plan lets me see more options whether they work out or not, lets me see more, but i’m not sure if my technique is getting much better and I’m finding myself to have no stong part of my game.but if i roll with a game plan i feel like i am getting better at what i am already good at and mmy weak positions are still weak because i’m avoiding them, hopefully. I use to be particularly good on top and slow on bottom but now i think i’m middle of the road at both top and bottom. when i focus on my weaker positions i feel like my better game is not developing and is slipping away because i am not working it as much. or shuold i be okay with having a rounded game with not being much better in a certain position? # 14 December 2007 at 10:40 pm
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Tightening and Finishing the Triangle 15 November 2006 83 views One Comment This was originally part of a longer tutorial on the triangle from s-mount but I often find myself referring to the part on tightening and finishing the triangle, so I’m making a stand-alone version of it.
I have his head and arm trapped in the circle of my legs, which is the start of the triangle, but at this point I am only crossing my ankles. I could just close my triangle all the way right now, but that’s just because I have long legs. So for all of you short legged suckers, here’s how I would have you continue. I also use this sequence when trying to triangle guys with really broad shoulders. I use my grip on the elbow to cross the arm.
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Then I shove his arm all the way across with both hands.
With his arm across, I reach up with my right hand and grab my shin.
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DO NOT grab your foot or ankle on the outside. You can break your ankle and heelhook yourself by pulling out here. It will also give you less leverage to break their posture since your ankle bends and your shin does not.
With a grip on my shin, I open my legs and step on their hip with my right foot. I keep my right knee squeezed tight to their shoulder so they cannot pull their elbow out that side. This simple grip on the shin is what I consider the most important point to do to prevent them from posturing out to escape. As you work to close the triangle, never uncross your ankles without grabbing your shin first, and likewise, never let go of your shin without crossing your ankles (or closing your triangle) first. You need to pull down on your shin to keep constant pressure on them and break their posture.
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Now I reach inside their knee with my left hand. This is another point that I think everyone should do. You can use it to turn for a better finishing angle, you can use it to sweep them to a mounted triangle if they try to stack, and it prevents them from slamming you if they stand.
Pushing on the hip with your right foot and pulling your head to their knee with your left arm, turn yourself perpendicular to them. You’ll know you’ve got a good angle when you can look in their ear.
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Keep turning, stepping on the mat to help if you need to, until your calf is chopping on the back of his neck. You don’t want your leg on his back or shoulders at all if you can help it.
With a great angle on the neck, I close my triangle, throwing the bend of my right knee over my left ankle.
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To finish, I pull down on the head, thrust my hips up and away and stiffening my back (not pulling him into me and bending at the waist, which helps him stack—a detail I picked up from Dean Lister’s movie) and squeezing my knees. In my opinion, squeezing the knees is the most important detail to finishing the triangle that most people miss. Whenever I hear someone complain about how hard they have to fight to finish what seems to be a good triangle or say that the choke is a “slow one”, I ask them to show me how they do it and they usually pull down on the head and lift their hips really hard, but not squeeze their knees. Once I add that detail, it becomes a very fast choke. Added bonus! Here’s a little variation I’ve been doing that turns this into an triangle-armbar combo.
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When I go to underhook their leg…
...I make sure I reach over their arm, trapping it in my armpit.
Now when I lift my hips, they get to enjoy an armlock too. Yes, I’m aware that my triangle isn’t closed tight in many of these finishing photos. I didn’t feel like making Trog suffer any more than needed.
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Younghusband said: Ooooh! I like the bonus! # 14 December 2006 at 3:20 am
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Ryan Hall’s Triangle from Inverted Guard 11 December 2006 1,304 views 5 Comments In case the marketing hype hasn’t reached you yet, Ryan Hall is Lloyd Irving’s latest “experiment”, a purple belt that he’s got doing The Game Plan and running through a ton of tournament, like Fowler did. Ryan has done extremely well in competition, winning the majority of them by triangle (earning him the nickname “Ryangle”). He’s got a particular setup for it that’s especially interesting since it comes from him playing inverted (or “upside down”) guard. Neither I nor Trog take any credit for the move shown below. We are admittedly ripping off Ryan Hall on this one. That said, Trog has devoted a lot of time to breaking down how Ryan does this move, watching and paying close attention to his tournament footage, and he has very successfully incorporated it into his game. He’s caught me with this more times than I care to count, and I’ve seen him hit it on many others of every belt color. Having had so much success with it, Trog wanted to put together tutorial on what he figured out from watching Ryan so others could make sense of it too. So all credit goes to Ryan. You can set this move up from many different situations, but a common one is to spin to it when defending a guard pass. We also took photos of how to do this from under north-south, because it’s easier to show, but I feel that this is the more representative way of explaining it. Here’s Trog showing how he defends the guard pass by spinning to inverted guard and then to the triangle:
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I am trying to pass Trog’s guard with a basic stacking pass, pinning one knee to the mat while driving my shoulder into the other. He has a cross grip on my sleeve since he was likely going for cross guard.
Rather than resisting my effort to drive into him, Trog rolls to his left, swiveling on his shoulder.
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As he spins, Trog grabs my other sleeve, so he’s controlling both of my arms.
With control of both sleeve and having spun all the way to inverted guard, Trog steps on each biceps like he’s playing an upside down spider guard.
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Trog steps on the same biceps with both feet.
Then he kicks his right foot into the armpit. He also pulls my right hand out, stretching it away.
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He takes his left foot off the biceps as his right leg shoots deeper under the armpit, which he uses to press against me and spins clockwise.
As he completes his spin, he traps my head and arm in the circle of his legs.
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Note that he uses the momentum of the spin to cross my arm.
Grab the shin, step on the hip and triangle your legs to cinch up the choke. Finish like usual. I won’t blame you if this move seems highly unusual, because it is. But I’ve come prepared to show you that it’s entirely possible and very effective, having gathered up all the footage I could find of Ryan doing it in competition. Here’s it in action: Grapplers Quest (Oct 2006)
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You can see him spinning to inverted guard and then a triangle at 0:14. Ryan Hall vs Justin Rader
A little bit of inverted guard at 5:55, then a lot more at 6:15, including a good triangle attempt. Ryan at Arnolds
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The match starts with some inverted guard action and a close triangle. Ryan defends a guard pass at 2:25 by spinning upside down, shooting for a triangle and returning to guard. At 3:25, he goes inverted one more time before spinning to the triangle that ends the match. Ryan Hall vs Renato Tavares
He defends a guard pass at 0:24 by spinning to inverted guard. He goes inverted against at 0:47 and shoots for a triangle but Renato avoids it. Another spin to inverted guard at 3:53. At 5:05, he comes dangerously close to having his guard passed but spins to inverted guard at the last second. At 8:10 he goes to inverted guard one last time then quickly spins into a triangle, which he has all but cinched closed when the time runs out. Lastly, you can check out this cheesy promo piece for Lloyd’s programs that does offer insight into what Ryan is looking to do when he spins to inverted:
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I hope this breakdown of Ryan’s move gave you some ideas. If you have any questions, feel free to ask and I’ll run them by Trog.
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Sawosz said: Nice one. I think you can also transfer to cross guard from 6th photo if your opponent postures too much too get the triangle. # 11 December 2006 at 4:45 am
OldDog53 said: Yes, I will definitely NOT try to practice this one. :-) But thanks for digging this stuff out. Seeing it at least keeps me from thinking there are too many “written in stone” rules or strategies in bjj. Who is Lloyd Irvin though and what is the Game Plan? Ah, http://www.lloydirvin.com/adult/bjj/testimonials.html Now, what is the Grappler’s Blueprint? Never mind, I’ll just read their website and go from there. (Sounds potentially controversial, though….) I do wish his students would just say “Coach Irving” instead of “Master Irving.” Or “Teach’”. Or even sensei; I think “sensei” for example, is used by grade school kids in Japan for their school teacher so it doesn’t have the kind of “heaviness” to it that “Master” does.
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# 11 December 2006 at 12:25 pm
Trog said: This is a kind of step by step setup . However, this is a move i use more on the fly. I use a single sleeve grip the majority of the time, and as soon as I go inverted I’m already looking for the opening to stick leg through their armpit. As they posture they give you the momentum to spin all the way into the setup; the grip on the sleeve helps but you can do this no-gi as well. Your hips must stay loose the entire time so you can swivel in and out of this guard from your regular guard. If you stay stiff your not going to hit it often. So just keep that in mind if any one gives it a shot. “Stay loose” If you look at the first two pics, you can see where I actually hit the triangle. As they go to pass the guard I push on the shoulder and bring my right leg over the top turning inverted. When I do I’m looking for my left heal to hook on his right hip. Then I use that heal and the sleeve grip to swing right back into the triangle. I’m using the “backwards” triangle almost constantly from this transition. Everyone who first saw me trying to figure this move out doubted it, and since then I’m triangled almost all of them with it. Or at least got in the position to triangle them but couldn’t quite close because my triangle ins’t good enough. Still you will get the head and arm you need to set up the triangle, and i think it will help a lot of people in opening their guards, and building good hip movement for everything else. # 12 December 2006 at 8:32 am
OldDog53 said: I think someone might have been applying this or a variant to me last week, based on Trog’s additional comment preceding this note. My practice partner wasn’t pulling a regular guard during sparring, it appeared he was sweeping but then triangling me…when I was watching him earlier it looked like he was “break dancing” when he was doing the same thing with another partner. Needless to say I was tapping a lot that session, because I was posturing but still getting triangled, and stacking the triangle wasn’t helping as much as it usually does. Any defensive suggestions? This is a little difficult to defend becuase my first reaction when guard is thrown at me is to posture up….which makes the triangle easier, I guess. # 12 December 2006 at 12:01 pm
Trog said: Biggest problem I’ve had is one brown belt swims both his arms inside my legs and then lays heavy on me. It kills my controls and puts me into north-south, where I have to change what I’m doing. He is a very aggressive player and does this well. He always says “Just fucking smash through it” and it works for him. To kill it my coach throws his hips really hard into my legs, causing me to lose control for a second. Then he makes his move to whatever position is given to him.
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# 13 December 2006 at 9:03 am
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Cross Guard - Armdrag to Sweep and Bow-and-arrow Choke 14 November 2006 77 views No Comment This choke isn’t from the “cross guard” position where you’re already all to one side, but he considers it part of that game since it uses the same cross grip on the sleeve. This also shows the versitility of the game, since you can use the same grip to armdrag and take the back if they are fighting you going to the normal cross guard.
Cross grip the sleeve and figure-four your arms to break the (non-existant, in this photo) grip on your 09/06/2009 8:35
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lapel. Do a crunch to bring your head and chest up. This cocks you into place for the grip break.
Arch your back and stretch out as you bench his arm straight up, breaking his grip.
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In the same motion, pull his arm across as you sit up and hug his back.
Escape your hips slightly to the side so you are sitting on his knee.
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Opposite angle: You can see how your hips are turned to one side, you’re hugging over his back and you’ve still got his arm pulled across your body.
When they try to sit back and posture up, bring your hips higher, closing them so you’re around their waist, sitting up on the top of their leg. The arm that was grabbing the back reaches around their head and grabs their collar. This has all been like we showed in the first sweep, but here is where it splits off. Instead of reaching under the far leg like a pendulum sweep, Trog does this:
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Reach under your own body, grabbing the wrinkled fabric outside their near knee.
Now open your guard and swing your hips out and lift them with your legs like you’re doing a pendulum sweep.
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When they flip over, you’ve already got the grip on their near pant leg.
Cross your legs over his far arm to lock down his upper body. You can also switch to hugging on the near leg instead of just holding the pants.
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Like before, you can also switch to the single wing choke by passing your arm under his arm and behind his head.
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What Robson Moura Taught Leo 29 December 2006 379 views One Comment I had the pleasure of training at American Top Team in Hollywood, FL this past Christmas weekend. Leo Kirby and I met up to share techniques and take photos. A while back, Leo did a private lesson with Robson Moura. He’s long wanted to show me what he learned, and the members of the SBG forum were clamoring for it as well, so we thought we’d shoot a tutorial of it. I have taken Leo’s notes on the private lesson that he posted on the SBG forum after training with Robson and mixed in the pictures we took. A BJJ collage of sorts. The guard variation that Robson did is very interesting to me since it plays right into the overhooking butterfly game but adds another element of being able to also stretch them out and away to keep from being flattened out (as you’ll see). I know Leo is always happy to answer questions, so feel free to ask below. Everything below is by Leo… —John Davis and I did a 2 hour private with Robson Moura. Really can’t say enough about the guy. I have trained and rolled with black belts but I have never seen anyone that truly understands the concept of non-attribute BJJ like this guy. Of course he is maybe 5’6”, 145 lbs so he really has no choice. He says he plays a faster no-gi game, but with gi it is all technique. We worked his guard game. This is where I began to understand how a small guy can play open guard from bottom without using strength and power to keep from getting crushed. He started in butterfly but went to one hip, something I have seen. Luis does it and I know I saw John Frankle teach that on a seminar DVD, as well as many others. I have never really been good at it though. But what Robson did was sit to one side, then x-guard the leg on that side. Leg position
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X-guard on that thigh with the legs pushing out with some pressure. Stretching the hooks to keep them off if they drive in
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So he was on his side with an underhook or overhook, whatever they gave him. Underhook
Overhook and far collar grip
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Then it was what they did that determined what he did next. A couple of points here. I have been playing x-guard for 2 years, trained with Marcelo twice, two private lessons with him, all of his DVD’s, as well as Kesting’s x-guard stuff. But it was never this easy. The thing I have heard over and over is: how do you set up x-guard? I have always waited for them to post or stand then go for the underhook on the leg, x-guard the other one. Or lift them from butterfly or butterfly half guard, then underhook the leg. The way Robson plays you can underhook the leg but you don’t need to. When they work to free the leg, post a hand, put a hand on your knee or grab the pant leg you sweep them a number of ways or take their back. He attacks the collar, but from that position normally they try to get an underhook so he takes the overhook. He will grab either collar from there. If the near collar, he uses the other side gi skirt and has several combos from there. Overhook and near collar grip
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He then went into gi control from this position with the lapel or by pulling the skirt out and wrapping it over their shoulder or back. Untucking and passing the far lapel over the back
Wrapping lapel across the back
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Wrapped lapel is gripped by overhooking hand
He had combinations for an overhook and switching the grip a number of ways, then sweeping or finishing with a choke. If you try to move back he just scoots with you because he has a hand posted and tries to keep contact. If you stand he can switch to the regular X guard or get both hooks in for a normal butterfly then switches to the x guard again that I described above. It was pretty amazing that while you are on your side, his thigh in the x-guard position controlled by both your hooks, you have plenty of time to play with his gi because if he tries to stop you you just lift him with the hooks and sweep him. We rolled with him for quite a while. His game is incredible—slow, and very technical. He is great at gi chokes and gets them just as you think you are passing his guard. All in all the best two hours I have ever spent in Martial Arts. I love
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training with Marcleo, but when you roll with him you know you have been in a fight. And after training with him I started working the fast game that he is so good at and that at 45, I am not sure I can play for more than a few minutes at a time. After the class with Robson, John and I started rolling/drilling on our own and it just made me want to get proper position, slow down, and see what he gave me. (1 votes, average: 1.00 out of 5)
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cretegolf said: Great article, It’s topical for me, I just recently had a private lesson from Robson Moura while in Scottsdale, Arizona @ Gustavo Dantas’ School (Robson was there right after his Pan-Am win & right before his Grapplers Quest win!!). Unfortunately, I didn’t bring my gi, which I now wish I did, but he showed me a bit of his x/butterfly guard, and some options from there. Even without the gi, it was very technical. There are many options from that position (he showed a cool sweep-taking the back from there) He also showed me a cool armbar sequence that’s in Nova Unaio’s Personal Jiu-Jitsu Magazine. Again, very simple, but very technical and effective. I was shocked that he wasn’t invited to ADCC, he would’ve cleaned up. Chris Fradelos(BJJ Addict-Toronto) # 24 May 2007 at 9:16 am
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Cross Guard - Pendulum Sweep 14 November 2006 68 views No Comment This is how Trog uses his cross guard game to setup the pendulum sweep.
You’ve setup the cross guard: cross grip on the sleeve, underhooking the knee, guard open, hips turned out. Trog says that he likes to play cross guard with his right knee pressing against the body, under their arm, like this. He uses his knee and shin to push them away and control their weight and posture.
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Use you left leg and right knee to push them back and to the right, so they resist and push back.
To fight getting swept, they drive in and try to crush your bent leg.
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Grab their elbow with your right hand.
Kick your right leg through and swing it out, turning your hips clockwise, as you begin the pendulum sweep.
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Use your left leg in their armpit to roll them and lift their knee to continue the sweep.
Keep ahold of the leg until you come into mount.
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Drop a couple elbows to the face.
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Triangle Troubleshooting - Doing It “Backwards” 5 December 2006 248 views 2 Comments Lately, Trog and I have been dealing with people defending the triangle by wrapping their arm around the hips and waiting for the omoplata. One wrestler in particular had been negating our triangles with this, and his defense to the omoplata was so good that switching to it wasn’t really an option. We were working on solutions when Trog came up with a great one. He said he’d been watching a ADCC highlight reel and saw one of the competitors run into the exact same situation, and easily handle it using a “backwards” triangle, i.e. locking the legs the wrong way. He uses the position to get their arm out, and actually finishes the match with a reverse armbar from it. You can see it this great video, between 1:12 to 1:45:
I think this is a great solution, and was also impressed that Trog spotted it in the video, so I asked him if I could share it on my site and he was happy to show it.
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You’ve trapped their head and arm in the circle of your legs for a triangle. But before you could cross their arm, they hugged under your hips. While it is sometimes possible to finish a triangle without crossing the arm, you can feel that they’re locking down your hips to prevent this. With their arm hugging your hips, you could switch to an omoplata, but you feel that they’re prepared for this and have already reached inside their thigh or joined hands to defend. Pay close attention to the next steps. They involve minor adjustments that are hard to see but they are important.
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Push their head to the left with both hands. You need to expose the side of their neck, and shoving their head to the side does this.
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Bring your right thigh against their exposed neck.
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With your right thigh snug against their neck, grab the back of their head and push it down into your stomach/hips. You are now exposing the back of their neck.
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Bring your left foot up and grab it, pulling it to the back of their neck.
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Figure-four your legs to lock the triangle. You’ve now got a triangle on the “wrong” side, but thanks to the adjustments made while securing it, you can actually make good use of it.
You can try using it to finish the choke by hugging your knees and squeezing your thighs together (think Thigh Master). This can put on the same pressure as a normal triangle, with your thigh against one side of their neck and their own shoulder in the other side. To be honest though, I’ve never had much success finishing anyone this way. It is a horrible position to be in and they’ll suffer, but they’ll survive. Instead of going for the finish, we’ll move on, using the backwards triangle for the control it offers.
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You’re going to use it to pry their arm out and cross it so you can get a normal triangle.
Dig your left hand under their arm and gable grip your hands together.
Bridge your hips up and start pulling their arm out. Slide your forearm down towards their wrist as you pull to gain better leverage as you go. With the triangle locked backwards, you’ve got a better angle to pull the arm out, and lifting your hips applies pressure that makes it easier to open them up.
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Keep pulling and shaking their arm out until you’ve freed it.
Bring their arm on to your shoulder.
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Trap their wrist at the bend of your neck, like you’re holding a phone with no hands. You can grab their elbow and manually turn it to make sure it’s facing outwards.
Cross your arms so the crook of your elbow is over their elbow. Apply the submission by hugging their arm to you as you expand your chest and arch your back and neck towards. The strength of this move should come from your core, not just squeezing really hard with your arms (though that does help).
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To escape, they have to bend their arm and bring it to the other side of your head. That’s fine since they just crossed their own arm for the normal triangle. Make sure to shove their arm all the way across so they can’t bring it back to the other side and hug your hips again.
Grab your right shin and open your legs.
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Step on their hip with your left foot to swivel your hips. Pull your right calf across the back of their neck.
Close a normal triangle and finish like usual.
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Dochter said: Nice series. I’ve done this a time or two mainly out of opprotunity but it is nice to see it laid out.
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# 6 December 2006 at 4:57 pm
timbaland said: Baret Yoshida also had a counter to people hooking their arm across the leg. He would take both of his hands and locks them across the knee that goes across your opponents neck. He then uses his arms along with his legs to pull his knees together and raises his hips. I’ve tried this and was able to get it to work. # 11 December 2006 at 7:38 pm
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Cross Guard Submissions 14 November 2006 78 views No Comment When you’re in the initial position to get these two submissions, the important point is that you first try hard for the sweeps. When it fails, it is because the opponent has postured or dropped their weight to the other side. If they posture, you get the triangle. If they drop their weight to the other side, you get the omoplata. First the triangle.
You’re in going for the first sweep and their left arm is out of your guard. They are resisting by posturing.
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Pass your right leg to the other side of their head.
Grab your right shin with your left hand and pull down to break their posture. Cross their trapped arm. Step on their hip with your left foot to turn your hips and keep your knee squeezed against their shoulder so they can’t pull their arm out.
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Lock the triangle.
Reach inside the knee with your right hand and pull yourself to it to turn yourself far a strong finishing angle. Now the omoplata.
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You’re entering cross guard with all your grips in place. This time, instead of passing your right leg to the other side of their body, you’re just pressing you knee in against them.
You are pushing into them with your left leg and they push back. At the same time, shove their arm back so their arm is wrapping your thigh as you chop your calf into their armpit.
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Keep chopping down with your leg, driving their shoulder down as you spin out.
Triangle your legs around their arm to secure the position.
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Take your arm out from under their leg and grab their belt. Keep holding their wrist down by your hip so they don’t uncross it and escape.
Untriangle your legs and drive your left leg flat to the ground to force the shoulder down as you use the other to scoot your hips away and turn slightly on your left side. The grip on the belt keeps them from rolling out and escaping. Finish like normal.
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Cross Guard - Second Sweep 14 November 2006 54 views No Comment This next sweep has to be used in combination with the first one. You go hard for the first sweep, and if they defend then they are susceptible to the this, and vice versa. This isn’t a sweep you will easily get from a static position. You have to switch back and forth back and forth, depending on which side their weight is on.
You’re going for the first cross guard sweep, but they’re countering by driving their weight forward and hugging your leg.
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Shoot your hips high in the air like your going for the first sweep. If they don’t fall its because their base is heavy in the other direction.
Switch your grip to their left elbow.
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Shoot your hips with as much force as possible in the opposite direction now.
They fall to their left. It’s hard to show this motion with photos, but you shouldn’t land here. You should land on their chest, or even better, all the way over on their far side.
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Keep riding up over them to land on their far side.
Turn towards them and come to your knees to establish a top position of some sort. Trog says he doesn’t use this sweep as much any more since it usually ends in a scramble. You’ll usually land sitting on their chest, so a good wrestler will knock you back down to your guard as they get up. Even if the sweep does work, you usually have to scramble to stay on top since there isn’t as much control and a firm place to finish.
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Cross Guard - Countering Knee-Through Pass 14 November 2006 88 views No Comment This next sweep is how Trog counters people trying to drive their knees though his cross guard. You can also get the same sweep when people do this to your De la Riva guard. You’ll notice that this is almost the same sweep as above, only applied to a different situation.
We join the action with Trog already in cross guard. His opponent has stood and is trying to drive his knee though his guard to pin his leg and defend submissions.
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From here you can see how he’s gripping the pants. If you got here from De la Riva, you’d be grabbing the back of the ankle.
When he feels they are really trying to drive their knee though to the ground on the other side of his knee, he turns his hips and brings his legs to that side.
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Here’s where we try to slow time so you can understand the hip movement. He straightens his whole body, shooting his legs and and tries to launch his hips up and over to the left.
Action shot of his hips shooting up and his opponent fall over.
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Shooting his hips up and over to the side collapses their base.
He stretches their leg out with his grip on the pants, and he keeps a grip on their sleeve. Continue to side control as shown earlier. This sweep looks and feels counter-intuitive. How am I sweeping him to that side if he’s driving his knee in so hard? That’s the problem I have with this sweep. It just doesn’t feel like it shoulder work. Strangely, the only reason you can sweep him like this is because he is putting so much weight on that knee. When he does so, he commits himself all to that side, and that’s what makes you able to knock him over. If he’s not really driving his knee that heavily or his weight is on the other leg, you won’t get this sweep. Trog said he rolls with a guy who will purposely try to get you to do this sweep, since he knows how to
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pull out when you shoot your hips, and you’ll just fly past him and he’ll take your back. So only go for this when you feel they are really committing themselves to driving the knee to the ground over your leg. Trog also said it took trying this (and the last sweep, which is similar) “a million times” and failing it before he started getting it. Now he’s sweeping Eduardo with it. It just took time to get down the timing, how you work with their weight, how you launch your hips up at different angles and the details on the grips.
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Cross Guard - A Second Introduction 14 November 2006 78 views One Comment This sweep is one of the moves we reshoot since Trog didn’t feel the motion of it was accurately captured. But rather than let the photos go to waste, I felt I would include them so you could see the sweep done with a slightly different entry and grips.
From closed guard, cross grip the sleeve with your right hand.
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Reach under the knee with your left hand.
Open your guard and step on the ground with your right foot to turn your hips clockwise. Keep your left leg somewhat tight to the body: you will need it to create resisting pressure.
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Swing your right leg out…
...and pass it to the other side of their head. Keep your hips very loose by lifting them and rolling your shoulders, so you can spin on your back.
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With your legs, pressure them back and to the right, so they defend by pushing their weight back.
When they push back, shoot your hips up against their right shoulder. You need to get up on your shoulders and launch your hips like you want to shoot back and to the left.
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As your hips shoot up into their shoulder, they’ll fall back to their right.
After sweeping them back, you will be sitting on their arm with it between your legs. Turn towards their legs and reach for their far side with your left arm. Keep the grip on their sleeve until you secure the cross body position.
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Post your left hand by their far side.
Turn towards their legs and post your right hand by their near side.
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Turn all the way and come to your knees, establishing side control.
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Leo Kirby said: I’ve been working on this every week since you posted it. It is really becoming a big part of my game. Last night I figured out a couple of problems while rolling. The first problem is actually getting in postion. The guy on top will try not to let your other leg out. I found if I start by gripping the outside pant leg, pulling my self around and putting the near side leg up by his arm pit and pushing out I can switch to the underhook on the leg. The key was to pull myself around, not try to pull his leg to me. When I went for the underhook a couple of guys really sprawled that leg back, but that didn’t stop it. I still got the underhook and pulled myself tight to their leg. At the same time I started working to get the other leg over his head. He was trying to defend the underhook and not let the leg out at the same time, eventually I was able to get the leg over his head. I got a couple of omaplata submissions, and a couple of nice sweeps. Once I am in postion I feel real comfortable with the game. # 6 December 2006 at 7:44 am
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Cross Guard - An Introduction 14 November 2006 164 views 2 Comments A while back, I shot a series of tutorials on a guard game that my training partner Trog has been playing. He does cross guard in the same style as Pe de Pano and Tinguinha, and he knows that others are interested in it so he wanted to show how he had developed his game. Trog was happy to share it freely, but his main concern was that he wouldn’t be able to show the dynamics of the game in static photos. The way you need to have loose hips and swing them freely, how you get your opponent rocking back and forth and play with his weight on posture, how you suddenly launch your hips in different direction—these are hard enough to teach in person, so they are even harder to show in pictures. When I first put together these tutorials, Trog didn’t want me to put them out unless he felt they adequately expressed these points. He said he’d rather just trash it than put out a bad instructional, since he doesn’t want people getting messed up for trying clunky Internet Jiu-Jitsu. And it just so turns out that Trog wasn’t happy with the first run of photos we took, and so this wasn’t going to be put up. But after showing it to a couple people in private, I found that if someone really wanted to get this game, they would still be able to learn a lot from this, especially if they took the time to go over it in detail and get a feel for it first. Heartened to hear this, Trog retook some of it and added more details to make up for what he felt was lacking in the first set. I also found footage of it being taught and used in competition, so the motion of the sweeps can be show in real time too. What I find really interesting is how he developed his cross guard game without the aid of instructionals. Only recently has he been watching Tinguinha’s and Pe de Pano’s instructionals on it, but what you’ll learn here came mostly from his own experimentation with the basic he learned from Eduardo, our instructor. If you’ve seen those videos, you’ll see how Trog has a slightly different style and does some of the positions and grips differently. Basic Grips, Positioning and Sweep There are several ways to grip and to get to cross guard, but he is the safest way that Trog does.
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With his right hand, he cross grips their sleeve. You can use a claw grip, but Trog uses a pistol grip since it is less stressful on his fingers. He grabs their leg with his left hand. Here he is grabbing the fabric of the pants, but you can also underhook the leg (as we’ll do later). Trog said he started gripping the pants after watching Pe de Pano use it in competition, since you can keep the grip when they stand, which isn’t easy with the underhook. He still underhooks the leg a lot, but he’s started using this grip more for standing guys (and for me, since I get him with my reverse omoplata passes, where I take the crucifix instead of passing his guard). Next, how he gets to the official cross guard position. He uses a few other positions before going to it, which allow him to get there securely.
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When he first opens his guard, he brings his knee across their chest. They’ll often drive into you when you open like this so having the knee there helps him control the space
He’ll drive his knee into the chest and stretch his body out to force their weight back. He’s creating space to start bringing his leg over their head.
With them shoved back, he’ll bring his foot up and step on their biceps and shoulder to create even more space. He said to expect them to grab your pants if you do this for more than a second.
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With all that space opened up, he can throw his leg over to the other side of their head and start playing cross guard proper. Now we’ll show how he plays with their weight and posture, and how it sets up one of the main sweeps.
He’ll press down on their head with his right leg and try to make them fall to the right. They’ll naturally resist and drive back to the left. This kind of pressure, putting weight on their head and trying to make them lean different directions and resist is a fundamental part of this game.
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When the resist being pushed over and come back into you, shoot your hips up and to the left, like you want to nail their shoulder with your butt.
Continuing the motion. His hips are still making hard contact with the shoulder as he comes up. The grip on the sleeve is extremely important so they don’t pull their arm out. This hip movement is the part that Trog has the hardest time showing in photos since it has to be done quickly and when their weight is moving to the left. You won’t get this sweep from a static position. You’ve got to have good timing and be able to launch your hips up well.
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As they fall and he comes up, he pulls their leg out and lifts it by the pants. This breaks their base and prevents them from fighting to stay on their knees.
Just another shot so you can see how he controls the sleeve and the pants as he comes up to sitting. The grip on the sleeve is still extremely important so they don’t pull out, and the grip on the pants helps prevent them from turning to their knees.
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Maintaining all his grips, he scoots his butt so he’s sitting on their arm as he turns towards their legs. You’ll be familiar with how to finish this sweep if you do a lot of omoplata sweeps, since they end in the same position.
He keeps turning until he can put the arm that was gripping the knee on the far side of their body, like he’s going for reverse scarf hold. With their upper body now locked down, he can release their sleeve and start doing side control however he feels like.
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Leo Kirby said: This is changing my guard game. I have been working on it for the last 3 weeks and decided to roll with it live on Thursday. I got 3 of the rolling sweeps an omaplata and a bicep pincher when they tried to pull the arm out of the grip. Tell Trog thanks a lot and thanks to you for posting this. # 20 November 2006 at 12:26 pm
meatgrinder said: In your first sequence of pictures…as you get to the side, I feel like the objective is to get your chest onto the back of his shoulder (one of the steps in marcelo’s armdrags). If he stops you from taking the back (by using his right hand to grip your left elbow and weighing into your shoulder), push his left hand across his face/neck and pass your sleeve grip to your right hand before coming back for the pendulum sweep…Having his arm across his neck gives much more leverage to rotate his shoulders as you sweep into mount. Even if he (with other potential attacks like returning to a triangle). At worst, you return to guard with your arm behind his head and his arm across his neck…total control of his posture; take your pick of attacks. # 22 June 2007 at 9:09 am
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Raspado’s Half Guard Top 14 November 2006 54 views One Comment Raspado, a purple belt at my school, was whining about how I get to goof off all day and put together BJJ tutorials. So I said I’d make one with him. We are covering what I consider to be a very strong part of his game (having been caught by everything he shows below). This is his guard opening, passing to half guard and maintaining position, and attacking with the ezequiel choke and americana in combination. First, we’ll start with opening the guard.
Raspado is in closed guard with good posture. His back is straight and his head is up; his arms are straight and he’s holding both lapels.
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He steps up with his right leg.
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Then with his left, coming all the way to his feet.
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He reaches back and grabs the knee with his left hand.
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He pushes down on the knee to open the guard and drive the leg to the mat.
As he pushes their leg down, he drives his knee through and drops it to the far side, trapping their thigh under his shin.
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Alternate angle: His rear knee is off the ground and he’s driving forward with it.
As he drives forward, he lays his weight on their chest and he reaches behind their head.
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Alternate angle: You can see how he is still pinning their thigh under his shin.
Here’s where Raspado has a dirty little secret. He should circle his rear foot out and pass all the way to side control. But he doesn’t. Instead, he releases their leg from under his shin and lets them take half guard.
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He drives his right hand under their arm for the underhook. This locks down their upper body and prevents them from taking his back.
To further secure the position, he drives his chest even higher and punches his underhook even higher. While securing his upper body, Raspado is also working on the lower in order to control their legs and hips.
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Here you see their legs in a mostly neutral position, just as Raspado is put into half guard.
He brings his left heel under their calf and lifts the leg.
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He then threads his left foot through and hooks his right ankle, and his right foot hooks their ankle. Doing this makes his top position very secure and kills the bottom man’s hip movement. For those of you paying attention, you’ll notice that he just did lockdown from the top. I find that very interesting. Here’s an example. The bottom man is going to bridge and try to throw Raspado off, once with lockdown and once without.
Without the lockdown, the bottom man’s bridge bumps Raspado’s really high and makes sweeping much easier.
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With the lockdown, the same bridge doesn’t have anywhere near the same effect. Raspado’s weight it locked to their hips, taking all the strength out of their bridge.
If they do try to bridge and roll him to his left, Raspado will post with his right foot (crossing over top of their leg) and on his left elbow. Now for the submissions, starting with the ezequiel choke.
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Once he feels secure, he’ll take out his right overhook and bring his arm up by their neck. He reaches behind the neck with his left and grabs inside his right sleeve.
Then he drives his closed right fist into their throat, aiming for their jugular. He doesn’t go all the way across the neck like in a normal ezekiel choke.
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And lastly, he brings his head down to close the space. Now for the americana off the ezequiel.
As Raspado goes to drive his fist into their throat for the choke, they bring their hand in to defend their neck.
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He grabs their wrist with his right hand and pushes it down to the mat.
As he pushes it down, he reaches behind their head and grabs their wrist with his left hand.
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His goal is to hold their wrist with the arm that’s behind their head.
Once he has grabbed the wrist, he reaches under and locks the figure-four, as if to do the americana. He can’t finish the submission yet since his arm is still behind their head.
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They will usually try to defend by pulling their arm to their chest.
As he feels them doing this, he slides his arm over the top of their head.
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And brings his elbow to the correct side.
It doesn’t take much to finish from here. Everything is already very tight. He just pulls their arm down a little more and lifts their elbow.
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If you’re going for this move and they try to escape by straightening their arm…
...he releases their arm and grab the back of their collar again.
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And drives his fist into their throat, like in the ezequiel. Drop your head to close up the space too.
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Raspado said: I am ugly. # 15 November 2006 at 12:15 pm
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The Marceloplata 14 November 2006 220 views No Comment This last bit is a new addition to my game. I learned it from Leo at the Marcelo seminar and saw Marcelo use it several times in sparring. It starts with the same knee drive that we use to go to s-mount, but it attacks them in an entirely different way and unique way. Again, this is a two parter. The second half of this addresses a common problem with many omoplata setups, where your bottom leg gets trapped under them and you can’t turn out for it. This is how Marcelo handles that. Let’s get started and you’ll see what I mean.
I have a vanilla mount on Trog. He has his arms in fairly good posture.
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I slide my left hand under his right forearm. This is easy to do since no one thinks to defend it. They are waiting for something more obviously like pushing their forearm down for an americana or trying to cross their arm for an armbar.
I drive my arm through until my elbow touches the mat.
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Then with one solid slide forward, I drive my left knee up under their arm. At the same time, I bring my left arm back and pinch my elbow to my ribs and grabbing their shoulder, trapping their arm.
Keeping their arm securely trapped, I step up with my left leg.
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Alternate angle. You can see how I am pinning their arm in place with my mine. I am also pressuring in with me knee to turn them on their side somewhat. The key is that I get their arm deeply wrapped around my hip at this point.
I throw my leg over like I want to put it across their face as I fall back to my right, letting them come to their knees.
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But as they come up, they pin my bottom leg and prevent me from turning out for the omoplata.
To being my re-counter to this, I make sure my left foot is on their face.
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I straighten my leg and drive my foot across their face as I roll belly down. This creates terrible pressure on the shoulder.
So they will roll out to escape the submission.
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Keep spinning faster than they roll, and keep your foot across their face as they roll to their back. Come up into an armbar-like position and make sure their arm is still wrapped around your hips. Keep spinning clockwiseto create a really tight shoulder lock.
But let’s say you’re not able to spin fast enough to get that submission, and they are able to come back up to their knees.
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You’ve just got the omoplata again, only now your bottom leg is no longer trapped and you’re free to finish like normal. Surprise bonus! I have crossbred my Garcia and Bravo material and started doing another move with this setup.
I get the Marcelo mount as shown above. This time I am also pushing down on their chest with my free hand to turn them more.
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I throw my left leg over their head and get my shin across the throat.
Instead of falling back for the omoplata, I reach behind their head and grab my own foot.
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I finish by falling back to mount with a gogoplata. Wow. I’m awesome.
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S-mount Re-counter: Omoplata 14 November 2006 61 views No Comment Continuing the re-counter game, this time I opt for the omoplata. Yes, an omoplata. From mount. That’s only the beginning of this awesomeness. The setup for this move was inspired by Jean Jacques Machado, who shows a variation in one of his books. Just as with my triangle from s-mount tutorial, the second half of this one is really just on how to finish an omoplata. I just threw it in as a bonus since I know people have trouble with it, and this way has worked well for me.
Once again, we find me going for an armbar from s-mount.
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And once again, Trog jerks his elbow down to the mat, escaping the armbar. As soon as he does this, I grab his far wrist with my left hand.
I shove his arm to my right, making his arm wrap around my thigh.
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I step over their head like I’m doing an armbar that isn’t there.
Then I fall backwards, letting them turn belly down and come to their knees.
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I triangle my legs around their arm and still have my grip on their knee. My left hand keeps pushing their arm down to my hip so they can’t uncross it and escape the omoplata.
I quickly take my arm out from under their leg…
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...and hug behind both of their legs. This is what Eddie calls the jiu-claw. It’s a no-gi grip for controlling them from the omoplata before you can sit up and grab their back.
I untriangle my legs and chop down on their arm really hard with my right leg. I want to stiffen my leg and try to force my hamstring and heel down to the mat. As I do this chopping, my left leg shrimps on the mat to move my hips away. This chopping and shrimping will drag them out and force their shoulder to the mat.
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Once their shoulder touches the mat, I sit up and hug their back. I keep shoving their arm down to my hip until I can bring my stomach and ribs over it and trap it. Make sure you do this really well, so you can let go of it and still have their wrist trapped. This is a little detail that a lot of people miss and leads to a lot of omoplatas being escaped.
With their wrist trapped by my torso and hips, my left arm is free to pull my legs and arrange them in the proper way to finish.
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I bend my right leg until my foot touches my knee, and I fold my left leg back, with my toes point straight back.
I raise my hips while pressing down on their arm with my right thigh and keeping weight on their hips and back. I lean like I want to go diagonally forward and to the right, across their shoulders. And about now, they should tap. To be honest, you really can just go for this omoplata without them escaping an armbar, but I thought presenting it this way would let me slip it by all of you that I actually give up mount to take a submission that a lot of people find really hard to finish and usually just results in a sweep. That said, here’s how to force them into the omoplata if they don’t want to come to their knees.
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I am pushing their arm around my thigh like before.
And like before, I step all the way over with my other leg, only this time I triangle my legs too. To prevent them from pulling out the back, I need to sit on their upper arm really tightly and pin it between my calf and thigh. This is also a common position after many omoplata sweeps, so you can apply this move then as well if you want to just go back to trying to finish the omoplata as a submission. Which I sometimes do.
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I put my head on the mat as I reach through with my right arm and do a shoulder roll towards his legs.
I keep rolling though, forcing his shoulder up and prompting him to try to get to his knees.
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When they post on the mat with their far arm to try to get up, I’ll usually hook under it with my right hand.
From here, I’ve basically got a crucifix where one of the arms is trapped by an omoplata. What I do from here is best left for another day (and I took it all from Nino Schembri’s omoplata video).
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S-mount Re-counter: Triangle 14 November 2006 63 views No Comment The s-mount game gets another layer deep with this tutorial. We’re entering the world of counters, re-counters and combos. This tutorial could have been broken in two. The second half is how I finish all of my triangles from guard, but I thought I’d cover that too. So you should mentally apply this new knowledge to other triangle setups than the one shown below. Let’s get started.
I am going for the armbar from s-mount, which you should be familiar with by now.
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But before I can pass my leg over for the armbar, Trog sharply turns into me and drives his elbow to the floor, bringing it lower than my hips. This is a common armbar escape. With his elbow out, I have no chance at recovering the armbar. Once his elbow is out, I drop my hips on his arm and sit on it to trap it.
With my left arm, I swim my under their far arm and grab their elbow, with their wrist resting on the bend of my elbow (as in the arm crush). I am also leaning towards their far hip and posting on the mat for balance.
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Leaning like this, my left leg is light and free to move. I stretch it out over their head…
...then bend it behind and around their head, trapping their head and far arm in the circle of my legs. As I do this, I fall back and let them come up to their knees.
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I am now on my back and Trog is on his knees. I have his head and arm trapped in the circle of my legs, which is the start of the triangle, but at this point I am only crossing my ankles. I could just close my triangle all the way right now, but that’s just because I have long legs. So for all of you short legged suckers, here’s how I would have you continue. I also use this sequence when trying to triangle guys with really broad shoulders. I use my grip on the elbow to cross the arm.
Then I shove his arm all the way across with both hands.
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With his arm across, I reach up with my right hand and grab my shin.
DO NOT grab your foot or ankle on the outside. You can break your ankle and heelhook yourself by pulling out here. It will also give you less leverage to break their posture since your ankle bends and your shin does not.
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With a grip on my shin, I open my legs and step on their hip with my right foot. I keep my right knee squeezed tight to their shoulder so they cannot pull their elbow out that side. This simple grip on the shin is what I consider the most important point to do to prevent them from posturing out to escape. As you work to close the triangle, never uncross your ankles without grabbing your shin first, and likewise, never let go of your shin without crossing your ankles (or closing your triangle) first. You need to pull down on your shin to keep constant pressure on them and break their posture.
Now I reach inside their knee with my left hand. This is another point that I think everyone should do. You can use it to turn for a better finishing angle, you can use it to sweep them to a mounted triangle if they try to stack, and it prevents them from slamming you if they stand.
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Pushing on the hip with your right foot and pulling your head to their knee with your left arm, turn yourself perpendicular to them. You’ll know you’ve got a good angle when you can look in their ear.
Keep turning, stepping on the mat to help if you need to, until your calf is chopping on the back of his neck. You don’t want your leg on his back or shoulders at all if you can help it.
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With a great angle on the neck, I close my triangle, throwing the bend of my right knee over my left ankle.
To finish, I pull down on the head, thrust my hips up and away and stiffening my back (not pulling him into me and bending at the waist, which helps him stack—a detail I picked up from Dean Lister’s movie) and squeezing my knees. In my opinion, squeezing the knees is the most important detail to finishing the triangle that most people miss. Whenever I hear someone complain about how hard they have to fight to finish what seems to be a good triangle or say that the choke is a “slow one”, I ask them to show me how they do it and they usually pull down on the head and lift their hips really hard, but not squeeze their knees. Once I add that detail, it becomes a very fast choke. Added bonus!
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Here’s a little variation I’ve been doing that turns this into an triangle-armbar combo.
When I go to underhook their leg…
...I make sure I reach over their arm, trapping it in my armpit.
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Now when I lift my hips, they get to enjoy an armlock too. Yes, I’m aware that my triangle isn’t closed tight in many of these finishing photos. I didn’t feel like making Trog suffer any more than needed. God, I’m awesome.
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S-mount Triangle + Troubleshooting + Armbar 14 November 2006 64 views No Comment The triangle is the second major attack I use from s-mount. Here is one way of getting it that works off the same grip as I use to take the armbar.
I am trapping the near arm for the armbar (hugging my hip, elbow to elbow), and Trog is defending like always. With my right hand, I grab his far wrist and shove it down and away from me.
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As I push his arm down, I throw my right leg over the arm.
I bring my right leg towards his head, trying to get my calf on his neck and my foot behind his head.
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I lean towards his far hip, posting on the mat for balance. I base on my right knee as I bring my leg deeper around his head and neck.
I triangle my legs and come back to center for a mounted triangle. Now for some troubleshooting. An opponent who is wise to the triangle will often try to defend it by not letting the leg pass over their far arm.
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Here we see me going for the triangle but Trog is holding his wrist and trying to keep his far arm inside so I can’t get the triangle.
I wedge my right hand in the exposed bend of his elbow.
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I drive my arm through as deeply as I can.
I remove the arm completely by prying it out by pulling their arm and opening my elbow. From here, just continue with the triangle like usual. That’s not all the trouble we’ll get though. Another common defense is to try to do a backdoor escape as the leg passes over. Here is a re-counter that picked up from David Camarillo’s new book, as well as Jean-Jacques Five Favorite Finishes video (though he does it from guard).
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As I go for the triangle, Trog grabs my leg with his outside arm and tries to shove it over his head as he scoots out the back.
I keep my hold on his near arm so he doesn’t pull out all the way. My right leg comes to the near side of his head.
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I throw my left leg over their head.
And fall back to finish a very tight armbar. Hooha.
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S-mount Far Arm Attacks 14 November 2006 67 views No Comment While the armbar on the near arm is the primary attack from s-mount, I have several ways of dealing with the far arm too. I use these to backup my armbar attempt, since they can counter defensive grips and set me up to take the arm. Even if they fail, you rarely lose position for attempting them. The trigger for each of the three armlocks below is the direction their arm is point. One if it’s up, one if it’s down and the last if it’s in between. First, the americana.
I have s-mount. I am reaching behind their head to hold my ankle and cinch the position tighter. I am posting with my right hand on the mat by their hips and my foot is somewhat behind me for balance. My chest leaning over them so I stay tight. My weight is low so I am harder to roll over.
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I see their far arm is by their face, so I grab the wrist with my left hand and push it down.
I reach behind their upper arm and grab my own wrist, figure-fouring my arms. I can crank it from here to finish it without driving their arm to the ground. This is a very harsh submission so be careful with it. Oh, and no thumbs. Monkey grip. To show how you can use an attack on the far arm to setup an armbar on the near one, let’s say they defend the americana.
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They try to escape by turning away and driving their elbow to the mat.
I release the americana and hook their near arm (grab my hip, elbow to elbow) and lean towards their far hip, posting on the mat for balance.
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Then I pass my left leg over the head.
And sit back in spider web, crossing my ankles and hugging the near knee. All of this (the armbar and spider web) were covered in the first tutorial. Now the kimura.
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I have s-mount and Trog is trying to create some space under my leg so he can elbow escape and bring his knee in.
I grab his wrist with my right hand.
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I push his hand down to the mat and to my left, trying to get his elbow to make a 90 degree angle, as I reach under his arm with my left hand.
I figure-four my arms for the kimura. To finish, I lean forward and base with my right elbow on the mat as I turn towards his head and crank the arm. Again, no thumbs. Lastly, the arm crush.
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I have s-mount and Trog’s arms are more or less in the middle, not pointing up or down as in the last two bent arm locks.
I thread my right arm between his forearms and grab his far elbow. It’s important that I swim my arm into place in such a way that he wrist is resting on top of my elbow.
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I pull the elbow to me, straightening his arm and turning towards me.
I keep pulling the arm, lifting it by levering my elbow up, until it is on my shoulder. I lean into it and tilt my head to trap their wrist on my shoulder like I’m holding a phone without my hands.
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To finish, I get his elbow in the crook of mine, then I grab my opposite elbows. I lean towards his far hip as I hug his arm to my chest and arch my back. Make sure you the pressure stays on their elbow and doesn’t slide up and down their arm. The power of this armlock should come from your back and shoulders and your body weight leaning into the arm, not just your arms squeezing theirs. Believe it or not, you can use this arm crush as a grip break to the armbar defense I showed in the first tutorial. Give it a try.
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S-mount Basics + Armbar + Grip Break 14 November 2006 544 views One Comment Last night, for no reason at all, I was struck with the urge to put together tutorial on how I do mount without the gi. So that’s what I did. My best game from mount is all built on the s-mount, which is where one of my legs is pointing up towards their head, making an S out of my legs. I have seen very little information on s-mount online, in books and in DVDs, so I figured I’d show what I’ve come up with so far. Below is how I setup the s-mount, how I take the armbar from it and a bonus armbar defense grip breaker. So this is really a three-in-one tutorial. I’m flexible enough to just jump into this s-mount much preparation, but for best results and less strain, you’ll want to start like this:
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I’ve got mount with both hands posting on the mat above his head for base.
I slide my left knee up, driving it under his arm. I was doing this slowly until Leo Kirby showed me how Marcelo taught him to just force the knee forward with battering ram speed.
Once my knee is up by his head, I swing my other leg around…
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...and fold it under his far armpit, so it’s point up towards his head. Be careful when you do this movement that you don’t give him space to elbow escape and bring his knee in. I stay tight and heavy with my thigh on his body and make the smallest circle with my foot possible.
After driving my knee up and folding my other leg, I should be sitting with my hips behind his shoulder, with his elbows being forced to his chest.
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I keep turning and driving my knee up until their head is resting on my thigh. My rear foot is somewhat behind me and I’m posting with my right hand on the far side of their hips for base. I am leaning forward with my chest low so my weight remains on them and I’m less likely to fall backwards or forwards. Maybe you need long arms and legs like me, but I’ll reach behind their head and grab my ankle. This puts pressure on the head and pulls my leg in tighter.
I can also grab the far knee and hug it to take away their bridging power. This is s-mount, the base of operations from which all attacks will be launched.
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But no, you won’t be happy if I end here. Where’s the submissions? What about the buku big attacks? Well, here’s an armbar for you. You may have noticed that Trog was already doing a RNC grip to defend the impending armbar. This is where we pick up.
I thread my left hand through his arms. I reach until I can grab my right hip and we are elbow to elbow.
I lean forward and to my right, towards his far hip. This puts a lot of weight on his chest and makes my left leg light and free to move.
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While leaning towards his far hip, I pass my left leg over his head.
I sit back and cross my ankles. I go right over left so the top one is holding my leg across their face. I’ve seen a lot of arguments over whether or not to cross the ankles when doing armbars, so I’ll explain why I cross them now. If my feet are under their far arm, I’ll cross my ankles to lock the shoulder in place. I will not cross my ankles otherwise since it wouldn’t lock their upper body and instead makes my legs a single unit which is easier to throw off when doing escapes.
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I switch from hugging the far leg to the near one. This is the position that Eddie Bravo calls the spider web. If you have his book, he goes over it in great detail and has a lot of great grip breaks he does to get the armbar or alternate submissions and transitions to other positions like taking the back. Eddie does such a good job of addressing this position that I actually thought I might just end this here, saying to check his book if you have any questions on how to proceed. I use mostly his material from here, like the slide grip break and switching to the triangle, and I didn’t feel like just copying out of his book for my tutorial. But I decided I should follow through and try to offer something new. So here is a grip break that I haven’t seen covered anywhere else yet.
I am sitting with spider web. My right arm is holding their knee and my left arm is hugging their near arm
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(elbow-to-elbow, grabbing my hip). Here’s some advice that was given to me that really helped me learn to overcome armbar defenses: Stop and examine the grip, then figure out a smart way to break. You should be in control and have the time to inspect it and figure out a good solution. Everyone runs into the problem of people defending the almost-on armbar. Some just jerk on the arm and kick the far arm and hope it’ll all just fly open. And this works, but I think you can find more intelligent ways to open them up. So let’s take a look—how is Trog defending the armbar? He is making the RNC grip even stronger by grabbing both elbows. I don’t have room to step on his biceps even if I tried, and jerking on the arm won’t do much against this. Here’s how I unlock this.
I wedge my right hand between his forearms…
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...and reach through until I’ve trapped the wrist of the arm I want to attack in the crock of my elbow.
I take my left arm out and grab his hand. And yes, hold the hand itself, not just the wrist. You need control over which direction the thumb is pointing for the next step.
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In one big, quick motion, lean to the side their head is on…
...then swing out and fall back, pulling their arm free…
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...and continuing the same motion, swing back to center and finish the armbar. You need to be very wary of them doing the hitch hiker escape when you use this grip break. That is where they point their thumb over their head (like they’re a hitch hiker), bend their arm and then spin out of the armbar and come to their knees. This is where your grip on the hand is important. You use it to counter the escape by turning their thumb back towards their hips, away from the direction you swing out. This turns their arm so they can’t bend their elbow and do the escape. Be careful when doing his grip break since the swinging motion can catch the elbow at odd angles, especially if you’re turning their hand and they try to hitch hiker. I recommend you drill how to take s-mount and the armbar that I’ve shown here to get started. The rest of this series builds on these.
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OldDog53 said: Since I’m getting sat upon and shat upon by an S-mounting mofo I thought I’d look up your S-mount materials. Hopefully I will find some defenses as I work my way through your tutorials. # 31 July 2007 at 12:21 pm
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09/06/2009 8:43
Omoplatarmbar from Rubber Guard | Jiu-jitsu Techniques | Brazilian Jiu...
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Omoplatarmbar from Rubber Guard 13 November 2006 195 views No Comment The second technique I took photos of today was a move I thought I developed. But I didn’t. I “made it up” one day and was further convinced of my genius, but later realized that I’d seen it in Nino Schembri’s omoplata instructional and forgotten it, until it subconsciously resurfaced while I was rolling. Nevertheless, I’ve taken it and infused it with the rubber guard I picked up at Eddie’s seminar, which is what I present to you today. Notice that I don’t use any gi grips, so don’t cry for a no-gi version just because my dummy is wearing a gi. My training partner is Jon, who was awarded his blue belt just yesterday.
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Jon is in my closed guard with good posture (head up, back straight, hands on my chest).
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I open my guard and put my feet on the floor, scooting back as I sit up and gable grip behind his head.
I fall back, pulling him down to break his posture. My right foot goes to his hip, and if I can’t step on his hip, I know I’m too close and need to scoot higher. I need to be able to push his hip away to keep from being stacked.
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Now and throughout this and all rubber guard moves, keep constant pressure with your legs, squeezing your knees, curling your legs. This will prevent them from pushing your legs down and driving a knee through your guard. Notice how he put his hands on my chest. If he just posted on the floor I’d skip ahead and go straight to overhooking and New York.
I bring my left foot high on his back and hook under it with my right wrist for mission control. Notice that I am not using the fingers or even the palm of my hand, but the actual wrist. Squeeze knees, leg curls.
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My left fist comes under his right elbow and punches up through the inside.
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I zombie my hand to the sky, which puts his arm on the ground and in my armpit so I can overhook it.
With his arm overhooked, I hug around my knee and grab my shin for New York. Squeeze knees, leg curls.
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I let go of mission control with my right hand and do a big circular karate block over his head, bringing my arm down on the other side of his head.
I regrip my shin with my wrist for what is called chill dog. Why? Because by now they know you want the omoplata and will try to hug your leg to stop you from turning out for it, so you need to “chill, dog” and wait for it.
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Not content to chill, I pull my foot in front of Jon’s face.
Time for the kung fu move, which may be hard to understand from photos since it’s a seemingly minor movement but one that Eddie is very adamant about being done precisely. Without taking my hand off my shin, I lift my elbow and circle my forearm behind my foot.
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As it comes around, I straighten my foot and bring my palm to the other side of my shin.
With my hand now on the other side of my ankle, I push it, forcing his head away and turning my so I can enter the omoplata.
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But as I’m turning out for the omoplata, Jon grabs my knee and presses it to the ground, trying to stop me and probably start bringing his knee through my guard.
I reach out and grab his elbow.
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I yank his elbow to me as I kick my leg straight, breaking his grip off my knee.
With his arm pulled to me, I triangle my legs around it and the arm in the omoplata.
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Both hands grab his wrist and make sure his thumb is pointing up as I pull his arm down and arch my hips to submit him with an armbar. Or an omoplatarmbar, as it were. If he managed to pull his elbow out of the armbar, I can just go back to the omoplata. Enjoy.
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Free TuneUp Utilities 2008 April 14, 2009 by maseko TuneUp Utilities merupakan salah satu software komersial untuk Windows yang dapat digunakan untuk berbagai fungsi seperti meningkatkan performance, pembersihan hardisk, mengelola dan mengatur berbagai fungsi pada Windows, dan juga beberapa tool tambahan. Melalui salah satu halaman webnya, Chip.de berbagi akses download TuneUP Utilities 2008 beserta lisence key-nya yang dikemas dalam sebuah file zip. Sayangnya, paket download installer TuneUp Utilities 2008 tersebut, seperti halnya halaman web yang menginformasikannya, juga menggunakan bahasa Jerman. Untungnya lisence key yang diberikan di dalamnya tetap dapat digunakan untuk TuneUp Utilities 2008 yang didownload langsung dari website TuneUp dengan interface Bahasa Inggris. Jika memang tertarik untuk menggunakan TuneUp Utilities 2008 tersebut, Anda dapat langsung mendownload installernyanya dari website Tune-Up yang menggunakan interface Bahasa Inggris melalui alamat ini. Lakukan instalasi, dan pada saat pertama kali menjalankan akan Anda temui pilihan versi Trial atau full version yang memerlukan product key. Disinilah, Anda dapat menggunakan product key yang diberikan Chip.de, yaitu: RFEAH-CDXKX-UMFBW-GSCES-YFWCM-WUHWB. Pada penggunaan selanjutnya, TuneUP Utilities 2008 tersebut sudah teregistrasi secara penuh. Posted in Free Stuff, Software
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40 Responses to “Free TuneUp Utilities 2008”
#1
Dee Tree said on April 14, 2009, 12:06 pm: Terimakasih infonya mas,saya pertama ya?
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#2
rojali said on April 14, 2009, 12:18 pm: mulai produktif lagi nih trims infonya.
#3
JagoanNeon said on April 14, 2009, 12:24 pm: Thanks info nya bro … wah mulai idup lagi nech … asik asik ,,, keep posting yeach ,,,
#4
didin said on April 14, 2009, 12:38 pm: wah…ini Genuine ya mas… saya cobain ah…
#5
echa bintang timur said on April 14, 2009, 12:55 pm: mantap,…… original man….
#6
Dee Tree said on April 14, 2009, 12:59 pm: Sudah saya coba,success mas
#7
jangan buang said on April 14, 2009, 1:32 pm: wah gratis dan ori neh thanks infonya
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#8
fachru said on April 14, 2009, 2:24 pm: enak nih, dah gratis full feature lagi, banyak gunanya lagi nih TU
#9
Ali said on April 14, 2009, 2:45 pm: sekarang kan sudah tahun 2009,, kenapa gak pake yang tahun ini aja bang,, apa ada kelebihan lain antara 2008 dengan 2009?.. boleh saya tahu dimana dan bagaimana kah kelebihannya itu? ;D maseko: alasan versi mana yang diberikan, saya tidak tahu, tapi beberapa software lain juga begitu, membebaskan versi lama sampai pengguna terpikat dan membeli yang versi baru.
#10
Acez Crewz said on April 14, 2009, 3:14 pm: Wew… Ternyata baru setelah Tune Up 2009 Keluar, Tune Up 2008 di bagi - bagikan gratis. Atau apa mungkin license keynya bisa dipakai buat yang 2009? Btw, Ini legal kan? maseko: saya belum mencoba product key tersebut untuk yang TU2009
#11
Michael said on April 14, 2009, 3:31 pm: wah hebat jadi tune up utilites 2008 ini legalkan mas syukur jadi gak perlu cari-cari software gratisan lagi
08/06/2009 14:40
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#12
Dels said on April 14, 2009, 3:39 pm: biasanya lisensi software dibagi2in di akhir quartal (misal April, yg merupakan awal quartal ke-2). . tapi entah software apakah itu… gw sih biasa cek di blognya Lifehacker atau Ghack soal infonya. . Btw buat yg serius hunting license software komersil, kunjungi : http://www.giveawayoftheday.com/ disini disediain license utk 1 software komersil setiap harinya
#13
Si kumb@ng said on April 14, 2009, 3:46 pm: sama yang 2007, bagus yang mana mas ? maseko: kalau tambahan fitur itu sudah pasti dan umunya ada berbagai perbaikan.
#14
http://lowpriceoke.blogspot.com/ said on April 14, 2009, 4:24 pm: kalo kerusakan filenya ga seberapa pake tune up ga ngaruh…
#15
Windu said on April 14, 2009, 7:32 pm: Hmm ada juga yang berbaik hati untuk memberikan SN-nya.
#16
Vai said on April 14, 2009, 8:49 pm: Waaww, itu serial code yg legal bukan ya? :/ tapi tool ini berguna banget, dulu pnah dikasih ama tmn sy great post ^^ Btw, ini pak eko teladan itu?
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#17
monk-q said on April 14, 2009, 10:01 pm: TuneUp Utilities 2009 bukannya dah lama ada … knpa msti pke yang 2008 … ??
#18
Aldi said on April 15, 2009, 12:31 am: Saya sudah pake TU2009.. lumayan oke programnya.. simpel..
#19
jojo said on April 17, 2009, 12:24 am: wah mas saya pernah pakai TU baik v2009 & v2008, beberapa kali saya mengalami kjadian yg sama, yaitu windows saya sering hAng. sehingga saya musti reInstal berkali-kali apakah ini akibat dari pemakaian TU? terus terang saya msh belum yakin ini akibat dari TU, karena pentingnya software ini maka mohon infonya Mas, thanks;)
#20
Om Dadang said on April 18, 2009, 7:59 pm: oke juga tuh,cuman terkadang bikin hang,ada solusi.saya pake P 4 2,4 GB,Ram 512 MB
#21
Download Gratis said on April 19, 2009, 4:19 pm: wah mas uda jaman’a TU2009 sekarang mah.. saya juga pake itu… kalo mau download silahkan masuk link saya… GRATIS..
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#22
Harry M said on April 19, 2009, 11:21 pm: Thanks berat MasEko, ini bener2 yang saya butuhkan…
#23
jenggot said on April 20, 2009, 1:32 am: Halo… lam kenal mas Setahu saya download dari official websitenya (versi inggris) dah gak bisa lagi menggunakan license dari chip.de Tapi ada cara lain yaitu dengan menghapus file resourcesnya (biasanya ada di C:\Program Files\Visagesoft \eXPert PDF\Resources). Boleh kunjungi http://for-free-on-internet.com/2009/04/expert-pdf-5professional-and-tuneup-utilities-2008-easter-gifts-from-chipde/ tuk keterangan lebih lanjut…
#24
jenggot said on April 20, 2009, 2:44 am: Duh maap… Cara lain dari komen saya sebelumnya itu untuk software lain (expert PDF 5 Pro). Sekali lagi maaf ya…
#25
Masbolet said on April 21, 2009, 9:31 am: Waduh . Mkch bngt neh . Ternyata versi register ampuh juga, he he he . Masbolet.blogspot.com
#26
Jasa Pasang Iklan said on April 21, 2009, 3:52 pm: Wah…Thanks atas Informasinya..Saya dari dulu memang perlu Tune Up Software…Sengaja ndak pake yang 2009 punya…Takut di detectsi ama Empunya…Mending pake yang 2008 aja…Ok…Sukses
#27
parulian said on April 21, 2009, 9:46 pm: 08/06/2009 14:40
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thanks ya, gua senang bngat tuh dah dapat key nya tune up, tambahan mas, tune up 2008 yang versi inggris juga bisa make key nya, terbukti sama tune up ku sukses mas. dah fully. klo ada key nya 1-abc Hard drive Washer 3.00 juga mas, lumayan bagus tuh buat ngebersihin sampah di hardisk. ntar kirim ke emailku ya mas. makasi banyak ya mas. sukses selalu.
#28
akhyar said on April 23, 2009, 5:13 pm: bro,,taskbar gw ilang,,dihidden ma si virus..jd startnya kgak ada..gmn y cranya??>
#29
wildan said on April 25, 2009, 11:39 pm: thanks banget, dah 3 hari nyari yang bener2 free kok susah banget. gak sengaja nyasar kesini malah dapat rejeki. matur nuwun
#30
agus said on April 26, 2009, 1:30 pm: thanks mas setelah menunggu lama maseko nggak ngeblog akhirnya ngeblog lagi dan bagi2 ilmu selalu upahmu besar di surga
#31
Vendy said on April 26, 2009, 8:11 pm: Thank TU Nya aq Punya Maslah Port USB NIh. Port Aq tiba2 tidak detect semua mulaidariPortPrinter,Mouse dan Semua Deh Setelah TakColokin Hd Portabel 3,5″ yang tidakpake casing next aq ganti pake PCI Usb. Tapi tetap aja untuk Hd portable aq tidak deteksi cuman muncul Drive Aja Tanpa Labelkalau di klik Hang. Gmana solusinya Thank Berat Bagi Rekan-rekanyang BISA
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#32
micio said on April 27, 2009, 9:18 am: bisa untuk perbaiki os ya?
#33
Eko said on April 30, 2009, 1:39 pm: Mas, salam kenal… mas aku mau tanya bagaimana sih caranya ngeblok website ? Thanks, EKo
#34
maul said on May 1, 2009, 7:29 pm: StepByStep : 1. Instal Tune Up Utilities 2008 cara instalnya sama Aja, Tinggal Next Terus…wkwkwkw 2. Setelah di Instal Buka C:PROGRAMFILESTUNEUPUTILITIES2008 disitu Letak semua Programnya 1. Integrator.Exe 2. SystemOptimizer 3. dan yang lainnya…wkwkwkwk 3. Coba Jalankan File Integrator.exe Clink…Akan muncul Window..Menunjukkan Program Trial 4. Sekarang Tutup Aplikasi Integrator.exe, Terus Ganti namanya Menjadi Integrator.exe jadi Integrator1.exe 5. Jalankan dan Lihat…Clinkkkk Gak Nunjukkin Window Trialnya Lagi. 6. Silahkan Lakukan Cara yang sama Untuk System Optimezer dan yang Lainnya. —————————————————— M..mm.. Entah ini pantas dinamakan cracking atau tidak tapi itu tak masalahlah.. yg jelas.. selamat menikmati software ini. “Ingat kalo memang mampu alias punya duit beli yg lisensinya karena bisa
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menyelamatkan kehidupan programmernya. Tapi kalo Programmernya kira-kira dah kaya kau lihat… udah crack aja kekekek “
#35
luthfie fadhillah said on May 3, 2009, 11:52 am: nice informasion veryververy helpful… Sucsess yoo..
#36
jie said on May 5, 2009, 3:32 pm: wahh thanks ya bossss
#37
joko said on May 20, 2009, 9:58 am: thanks for mr maul, its tips also worked on tu utilities 2009 its very useful thanks again mr maul
#38
yukam said on May 27, 2009, 6:51 am: Waduh, Thanks banget Boss,ternyata yang gue cari selama ini ada disini,sukses Boss.
#39
pangeran Kesepian said on May 27, 2009, 11:56 pm: mantap dah…. gue ckg udh pny Tune Up 2008 mksh bro….. qlo ada yg 2009…jgn lupa bagi2 ya…hehheehe
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#40
heri said on May 29, 2009, 12:41 am: thanks yah Om…
08/06/2009 14:40
Lazy London and the Gi-dependant Rubber Guard | Jiu-jitsu Techniques ...
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Grapplers Over 40 Only
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Lazy London and the Gi-dependant Rubber Guard 13 November 2006 123 views No Comment Today, before pulling up and cleaning all the mats in the entire school, I took some photos of two techniques I wanted to share. My training partner in these is Jon, who was awarded his blue belt just the day before. The first of these is a triangle setup that uses what I’m calling the Lazy Man’s London or the Know-gi Rubber Guard.
From closed guard, cross grip the sleeve and hold the wrist. I’m using a pistol grip since I don’t like my fingers turning into claws when they break the grip.
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They get to one foot as they go to stand. As they start to get to their second foot, they will be momentarily off balance. Quickly do a crunch and bring your knees to your head (without opening your guard) so they fall forward.
As they fall forward, pull their arm over your head. Your other hand reaches up through the middle and overhooks their arm.
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Bring your leg up and reach behind your knee. Keep pulling with your other hand over your head.
With the hand behind your leg, grab the back of their collar. This grip acts like London and lets you easily keep an overhook on their arm.
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To show how secure this grip is, I had Jon try to stand and lift me while I open my guard and hold on with nothing but my hand on the collar.
Back on the ground, I’ve let go of the sleeve and grabbed the wrist of their free arm instead. I’ve brought my knee up towards my chest and I’m using my shin to push his arm away.
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I can bring my foot up and step on his biceps to keep pushing his arm away.
I clear his arm and bring my leg up over his shoulder, closing my guard around his head and trapped arm. You can let go off your grips now and pull your shin to close the triangle tighter.
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Grab his wrist with both hands and lift your hips so you can…
...cross his arm to the other side.
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Reach inside his leg and pull your head to his knee, turning you perpendicular to him. This gives you a better angle and contact with just his neck. Lift your hips, pull the head and squeeze your knees to finish.
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Triangle Push-up Sweep 13 November 2006 109 views 2 Comments This is a simple move I’ve been using a lot lately. It came to me while I was doing passing the guard drilling and kept getting triangles. Everyone was doing the escape where they drive my knee to the mat but I didn’t really feel like fighting too hard to finish the triangle like this, so I just made this move. It has worked well on everyone ever since. It can be used as a re-counter or as a sweep in itself. Or maybe it’s a re-counter that is a sweep. Either way, I’ll start by showing it as a re-counter to their triangle escape attempt.
Shazam! I’ve got a triangle.
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They grab my kneecap with both hands and drive it to the ground. They’re going to try to escape by sprawling into me and posturing towards where my legs are crossed while pulling my knee down. If done right, this will force my triangle open. So before they can do all that, I start doing my re-counter.
Keeping my triangle closed tightly, I twist and try to go belly down and put my chest on the mat.
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As soon as I’ve twisted, I do push-up…
...and walk backwards on my hands…
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...ending in a mounted triangle. But not everyone will go to down so easily. Especially so if I go for this move as a sweep without them trying the above escape (so they’re in a fairly normal posture). They may try to posture and post on the mat with their outside hand to base and defend the sweep. My solution?
I just do an even bigger push-up and keep walking backwards on my hands. Fancy!
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I keep doing this, pushing up and driving my hips into them, trying to bring my hips higher than their posture, until they’re unable to resist the sweep. You can see in the photo how his arm is no longer posting in a way that prevents him from falling over.
So over he goes. And if that wasn’t enough awesomeness for you, I’ll throw this in, free of charge:
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Since I sometimes have trouble applying good finishing pressure with the triangle from mount, I’ll grab an americana on the trapped arm. Good times.
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KeithM said: since you reviewed the essential guard, i assume you own it. turn to page 184, technique 82. this is what i use in this situation(not the same entry)... but i do like the idea of sweeping to mount…i think i’m gonna play with your tech. thanks a bunch. # 11 December 2006 at 8:45 pm
codemonkey76 said: “Good times”, classic aesopian!!! # 9 January 2007 at 11:18 pm
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LDHG/DHG in Photos 11 May 2008 318 views 5 Comments Before I shot video, I took these photos of the basic long distance and deep half guard sweep that I use. This is the same one that I show in the first video.
Basic long distance half guard posture. Knee in the hip to maintain space and turn my on my side. Ankles crossed, left over right. Left hand on the shoulder, forearm framing the neck. Right hand controlling the far arm at the wrist or biceps. He cannot underhook me when my arm is framing his neck. He also can’t overhook for the brabo. I can use the knee to make space and choose when I want to dive for the underhook. The right hand keeps the crossface away. If he tries to drive in while sprawling his leg, I push off on his neck and pull my feet towards my butt to
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keep his leg trapped.
If he is particularly intent on crossfacing, I can go to the double paw and protect my face.
When I feel I have good control of the far arm, I slide my right hand to the wrist and reach over the arm with my left for the kimura. If I wanted to finish the kimura, I’d hug his arm to my chest and shrimp my hips under him and work from there.
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But he’s smart and postures up and straightens his arm and rips it out, but because he’s posturing and freeing his arm, the threat of the crossface is gone and he’s giving me access to his far knee.
I immediately dive under the leg with my right hand, bring my head to the thigh and gable grip my hands together.
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My knee is still on his hip to carry his weight. I’m trying to bring my elbow and knee together to create a frame against him.
Elbow and knee touching. Also notice how I have my feet crossed. The simple detail of my left being over my right makes a huge difference in terms of how strongly I can hold him in my half guard.
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My left arm becomes a shield to cover my head and hide my face so he can’t crossface. He’ll just slide off the top of my head.
I scoot my hips underneath him and try to throw his weight to his front. Notice how this puts his weight on his hands, making it hard for him to reach back and crossface. My elbow and knee are still touching, and my elbow is now jamming into his ribs/stomach to keep his weight off.
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I may need to open my ankles now as I rock him over me so my knee can carry his weight.
Notice how I’m spreading his legs to disrupt his base as I pull his leg on my shoulder and scoot underneath him.
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My hips keep going under him by shrimping and bumping my shoulder under his leg and throwing my right elbow to my left.
My right knee slides in under his thigh and keeps his hips up.
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I stretch him away with my right knee under his thigh. My left leg comes up and steps on the inside of his knee/thigh and pushes too. This puts his weight off of me and on to his far knee. It also creates space for me to get on my left elbow. The grip on the kneecap is important. It’s a strong grip that prevents him from kicking his leg out and run out of the sweep.
You can clearly see how my right knee/shin is creating space and where my left foot is going against his knee.
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Stretch my left leg to kick his leg away and scoot my hips out. Now I’m carrying almost none of his weight and have plenty of room to get all the way up on my hand. My right leg is stepping on the mat now in preparation for a technical stand-up. The sweep from here is easy. Just stand up or come to your knees and move towards him.
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codemonkey76 said: I was practicing this before class last week and my instructor was watching and then for the technique in class he decides to show us a counter to the guy trying a kimura from bottom half-guard. The top man, steps his free leg over his arm to protect it and then sits his left hip on the ground (assuming same positioning as in these photos) and then grips his own hand palm to palm and leans into the bottom mans shoulder and lifts, it applies a kimura to the bottom man. Needless to say i couldn’t use this entry for DHG lately… i have to wait until some people forget this kimura counter # 12 May 2008 at 5:15 pm
featherweight said: codemonkey im having trouble picturing that… any pics / videos? # 23 May 2008 at 4:30 am
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Blister said: Featherweight—you can see a vid of this kimura counter by looking at a snippet of volume 6:Counter Attacks of the Demian Maia instructional video found here: http://www.groundfighter.com/details/prodid/243.html # 27 May 2008 at 7:50 pm
featherweight said: thank you very much Blister. maia’s english is funny, “look. look, move so people can see. look.” i’ve seen a similar counter, people at my gym just lock their hands together and posture up hard, twists your arm really bad. this is better. # 28 May 2008 at 1:56 am
Balanced said: Thanks for laying this sweep out for us. I’ve seen it used a lot and I think it will go nicely with my game as well. I’ve developed a more defensive half guard (not a good thing) by using the knee in the chest just to keep from getting my guard passed, and I think this move will help me get on the offensive. # 21 June 2008 at 5:05 pm
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Marcio’s Back Control 13 November 2006 151 views No Comment My instructor gave me a great addition to the monkey feet game from rear mount. He saw me doing my monkey business on the back and showed me another way to lock them down without having both hooks in. He said that Marcio Feitosa does this as a signature way of keeping the back. It goes like this:
I am on their back with the harness, they’re turn on their choking side, choking-side hook is in, yadda yadda yadda. My top hook is free to do its monkeying and my bottom hook is in really deep. Fearing I’ll put my second hook in, Trog is bringing his knee up to block it out. I could go to trap his arm or get the reverse half guard like Marcelo does.
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Or I can do Marcio’s position. I bring my bottom hook up behind their thigh and my top leg over their hips and thigh, then cross my ankles. Opposite angle:
Holding them like this, I’ve trapped their leg and locked myself to their hips. This completely kills their ability to bridge or roll to the escaping side. I was playing around with this and comparing it to the reverse half guard and I think I’ll enjoy using this a lot more. It completely kills their hips movement. I should be charging for all this awesomemess.
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Jeff’s Half Guard Sweeps 13 July 2007 691 views 3 Comments Back in the days of MMALibrary.com, Jeff Rockwell had put up a series of half guard sweeps. He taught starting from a sitting guard and diving in deep as a counter to combat base. I’ve used my internet sleuthing to recover them so I could add them to my notes here. I’m currently focusing on half guard and want to work on these. It’s all Jeff below:
Sweep #1 I got the first of these from watching Shaolin Ribero and the last two from watching the Noguiera brothers in the last Pride. When you put them all together, it is a formidable series of sweeps and reversals, I’ve been having a lot of success with them recently. While the main place I’ve been applying them is vs. Combat Base (knee up inside guard), there are LOTS of places to aquire this position from, ie. escaping mount, escaping quarter mount, escaping backmount, etc.
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Alright, here I am facing an opponent who has taken a “Combat Base” posture (knee up inside my guard), to defend against standard attacks. As you can see, I am sitting up, not laying flat on my back, and my right hand is on the ground for base. My left hand checks his shoulder to moniter his movement. In this picture, there is a lot of space between his knee and his butt for me to work with; however, even if there is only a few inches of space, I have still found this entry to work.
My right leg is going to shoot inside the space between his right leg and his butt. Sometimes I will momentarily grab his right leg with my left hand to hold it in place. Here I am starting to dive my right leg in between his right calf and his butt. It is important that I dive DEEPLY, no half-hearted moves here. My right hand leaves its based-out position and follows my right leg…
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...also diving between his legs, and coming to rest as an underhook beneath his left leg. Even if he is sitting his weight back on his left leg, it is hard for him to resist this, as I am rocking all my bodyweight up underneath him.
This is the “Seated Half Guard” starting position. My head should be tight against his left hip, and I am so far under his body that we are almost facing the same direction. My ankles are crossed and my legs are squeezing to control his right leg. Here is an important detail: if at any time, he is able to put his right knee down on the ground, I simply put my left knee in front of his right hip and back out into a normal half-guard position. I don’t want to stay crunched up under him if his knee goes down, as he will be able to crossface me and kill my game. The knee in front is pretty easy to get here, though, so if you have a good normal half-guard game, this will won’t be too much of a concern.
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Now for the first sweep, this is a really nice one. My left hand stays tight to my body, and reaches for his right ankle.
Now I rock back to get some momentum, then rock forward and extend my left leg and lever forward, pushing on the top of his right thigh with my left hamstring, while pulling on his right ankle with my left hand.
I follow him up, keeping control of both legs…
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...as I start to sprawl downward, underhooking his left thigh with my right arm and overhooking his right thigh with my left arm…
..and capturing his right ankle with with the crook of my right knee. Keeping the under/over grip, I lean to a 45 degreee angle, keeping tight control of his hips, and extend my hips for the kneebar submission. If he bends his leg to avoid the tap, I get an easy guard pass.
Sweep #2 You can see this sweep attempted several times in the Pride fight where Rogerio Noguierra faces Shogun Rua. Though Shogun counters by repeatedly standing and running out of it, I have found it very effective. Enjoy!
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So you have attemped sweep number one from the initial sitting half guard position, but you aren’t able to grab his foot. So instead of underhooking his left leg, my right arm now underhooks his RIGHT leg, and my left arm joins it. Both hands are clasped together palm to palm over top of his right leg. This is a weird position at first, but there is not too much the top guy can do to you here. He can’t put much weight on you, can’t attack your arms, your legs, or your neck. The Noguierra brothers have used this position successfully in MMA, but I haven’t tried it in that scenario myself. I wouldn’t want to stay here long if someone was punching me in the face, but that’s just me. It does seem that it keeps the guy pretty off balance, not much power in his punches if you keep rocking. In any case…
...my first direction is out the back door. I have a lot of control over his leg here, and I rock my body hard to my left…
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...extending my legs as I bring his weight forward and pop my head out from under his leg…
...coming out the back door like so.
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If the opponent stays low, I look to block his left knee with my right hand, come to either back control or side control. Shogun showed us that this can be countered by standing up and twisting out of it, though, so be ready to follow with a single or double leg if he stands.
Sweep #3 The last sweep in this series. For now.
Here I have acquired the same position at the start of the previous sweep, and I am rocking my body hard to my left, attempting to come out the back door.
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My opponent knows my intentions, however, and sits his weight down hard back toward his butt to counter.
Keeping my arms gripped tight on his leg, I twist back to my right, following his momentum and turning upward…
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..to finish with a “single leg” type reversal. Minotauro hit this nicely in the first exchange of the Pride fight with the Polish judo champ.
Like many of the other sweeps so far, it leaves you in perfect position to once again hit the over/under – kneebar submission/guard pass.
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blanko said:
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Hey that’s my half guard game :P!!! I use all all of those sweeps and i love them. The only difference is that i trap his arm with the leg when i sweep. This prevents him from posting his arm when i sweep him AND it makes it harder for him to kimura me when he is in my halfguard. The only other thing i do different is sweep #1 i use an uppercut motion and try to hook his heel with my bicep instead of grabbign it. # 17 July 2007 at 11:12 am
deryk said: Good stuff Aesopian. I tried working with these during training last night, and although I wasn’t able to get them down exactly as shown, I got a lot of usage out of the concepts. My only problem though is the initial shooting in with the leg into halfguard. A lot of times, I end up in half guard with the guy’s knee down already or in some quarter-guard position. How do you manage to get in position for the first sweep? Seems really hard to do if the other guy doesn’t stay still. # 17 July 2007 at 3:49 pm
bjjeh said: Hi Aesopian, Great stuff. I think some of these sweeps are in video here (maybe helpful for some people—see vids 4/5): http://bjjeh.blogspot.com/2007/11/bjj-techniques-sweep-from-closed-guard.html # 30 November 2007 at 3:04 pm
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Playing Butterfly with an Overhook 13 November 2006 124 views No Comment Playing butterfly and half guard with an overhook was a game that confused me until recently. It runs against everything you’re taught about the importance of getting underhooks in order to prevent them from flattening them out. Yet I know guys like Jean Jacques and Mike Fowler are famous for triangles and ompplatas from these positions. I didn’t get how this was possible until I trained with a Gracie Barra black belt named David Vieira. He just opened a new school in my area and has visited my school a couple times to train. He took me and Trog aside one night and showed us the whizzer butterfly to triangle he used to win several matches in the Mundials. It was from this and watching his spar and observing him play his game that I picked up how to do it. The first part to understanding this game is knowing the grips.
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As they try to underhook my left arm, I overhook their right arm and whizzer my arm through so my hand is reaching across their chest. I grab their opposite collar as soon as I can. I will feed the collar deeper with my right hand until my left hand is as deep and tight around their neck as possible. I’ve seen Jean Jacques do several moves where he holds the same side collar, and I know that Robson Moura plays this game that way, but I would rather get the opposite collar since it gives me chokes. I will hold the same side collar if that’s all I can get and use it until I can get the right position to reach all the way across. For example, when they’re flattening me out in half guard and I can’t yet reach very deeply. An important detail on this grip is that I keep my left shoulder tight to his shoulder. This makes it more difficult for him to pull his overhooked arm out. You can play this position pretty much like a normal butterfly guard if you want, going for hooks sweeps to either side. Jean Jacques shows a lot of sweeps from an overhook butterfly guard like this in his books. I trained with a brown belt who did the usual sweeps from butterfly using this grip. But I don’t really play it like that though, and for the most part, neither does David, whose game I like more. You’ll see what I do instead below. In the above picture, you can see how I sit out to one side. This is a key to not being flattened out. Even if he drives me to my back (so I’m not sitting up into him), I’ll still be turned on my side with my hips free.
Even if he pushes me back, I’m still on my side and my hips are free. This actually plays right into my game from here, so I’ll purposely pull them down to this position. I’d rather have them down like this than trying to back away and free their arm. Another detail about how I’m staying aggressive from this position and not getting flattened out is to stay on my right shoulder, not on my back. I also turn my left shoulder down like I want to bring it to the mat. This presses their shoulder down and makes it harder for them to drive straight into my chest. The next important aspect of this game is how I use my hooks, knees and feet. As I said above, I don’t play this like a normal butterfly guard, where I’d be sitting up with my hooks under his thighs.
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In this picture, I’ve opened up the space so you can clearly see my legs. I took out my left hook and now have my foot stepping on his hip. This helps me create space, prevents him from smashing me, and moves my hips out so I can stay on my side. My right foot comes up and steps on his knee to break his base. This foot can also step on their hip to block them from passing or take a half guard position.
From the side, you can see that as I play the position, I step on their hip with my toes and bring my knee high, using it to press down on their back and shoulder. This is useful for several reasons later, but for now you should know that it prevents them from jumping over my hook on that side. My instructor was going over this overhooking butterfly with me on Thursday and he said the main
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problem with it is how the guy can jump over your butterfly hook on the side of the overhooked arm to pass guard. I showed him how instead of just butterfly hooking their thigh, I step on the hip and bring my knee slightly behind the back, which makes it much harder for them to jump to that side. He thought it was a good solution to that problem. From this angle, you can also more clearly see something about this position that I find interesting. It’s not quite normal butterfly guard, half guard or even half butterfly, and it’s not closed guard. But you can get to it from any of those guards, and it’s pretty easy to return to any of those guards from it. To me, it’s guard that’s between all of those ones and helps unite all of them. Lately, I’ve been getting my biggest improvements from learning these “in between” positions, since they fill the gaps between the standard positions.
Note how I’m so far out to the side that I have been able to bring my knee up on his shoulder. In addition to controlling the space and defending the pass like I said above, I’m now using it to get a straight elbow lock (hiza gatame) on the trapped arm. I keep escaping my hips and sliding down his arm until I feel his elbow under my elbow and his wrist in my armpit. I pinch my elbow in on his like I want to bring mine into my chest. I drive his shoulder down with my left knee. I twist my upper body to pressure down on the arm and help drive his shoulder down. To prevent him from posturing, I’ll kick out his far knee with my left foot. When I really go for the finish, I’ll bring my bottom knee up against his shoulder too and pinch it with my knees. You’ll need to experiment with this armlock some since it takes some practice and feedback from your training partner to get a feel for how to do it effectively to get a tap. You can see Koji Komuro demonstrate the submission here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B31pNfRj3a4 In addition to the straight elbow lock, I have a collar choke. I grab his collar with four fingers in and punch into his neck while pulling down on his other collar (with my overhooking arm). This first choke helps me create space to prevent him from driving into me and can be used to get the
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correct positioning for the armlock. I can also pull on the collar to break his posture if he tries to pull out. You can do the choke more like a cross collar choke by grabbing the wrinkled fabric on the shoulder (palm down), but I like doing it with my fist in the throat since it hurts more and can controls the space and posture better. I picked this up from Koji’s instructional and watching his matches. You can see Koji set this choke up from the top of half guard and finish it from the bottom here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hplbU2AaBcI And off the sprawl: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfBGSP2cefk Depending on how I enter this position (e.g. from closed guard vs half guard), I’ll either start with the collar choke then use it to get the armlock, or go for the armlock and add the collar choke. Ideally, I get both going at the same time so I can use them together. If I had to pick though, I’d say to go for the armlock more since it puts you in a better position, setups up alternate submissions and you can be done if you play this game no-gi.
Often while fighting to defend the armlock and choke, they’ll make themselves vulnerable to you climbing your leg to a triangle position too. You can go for the triangle much earlier without the collar choke and armlock, which is how David taught me, but I found that if I went for it first, I was more likely to have them counter by driving a knee though and passing my guard. Once I started going for the armlock and choke first, the triangle became safer.
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If you’re not content to have an armlock, choke and triangle all at once, you’ll happy to know that you can also throw your leg over for an omoplata. Again, you don’t need the other submissions first, but I found that going for the omoplata alone didn’t work well. The time to get it is when they’re in the armlock and try to escape the submission by driving their arm deeper (to take the pressure off their elbow) and bend it so their hand point down towards your hip. But really, I wouldn’t go for the omoplata if I had the other submissions I can do without switching to another position. It’s just nice to know it’s there. If they bend their arm up towards your head, you can go for an americana-like submission like Mir got on whatshisname. Watching David, I constantly see him with the whizzer grip, escaping his hips out as he goes for the armlock, working for the collar choke and climbing to the triangle, attacking all three at once. His opponent will be trying to give him the omoplata or let him sweep them just to escape, but he’ll roll around without letting go of anything. It was seeing this that inspired me to train this position more and helped me understand how it can be played. I’ve also seen him use this grip for hook sweeps and even swinging over to an armbar on the trapped arm, so that more to this game to explore too. In summary: Overhook and get a whizzer. Grab the far collar. Get your hips out and stay on your side. Get higher on their torso and step on their hips and knees. Attack the trapped arm, attack the neck, climb for triangles, watch for omoplatas. 09/06/2009 8:47
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One last comment on this game. Since I’ve started playing with it, I’ve found that my underhooking guards have gotten better too. How can this be? Because now I’m no longer afraid of them getting an underhook, while my opponent may actually give up his underhook to escape, giving me underhooks and even armdrags. (No Ratings Yet)
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Brabo Choke Homework: Trigger Position 28 June 2007 155 views 2 Comments I want to show how I’ve redefined the trigger position for myself and what this means to how I’m getting the choke. For the longest time, I thought of the brabo as only being available when they underhooked me. This is how it’s taught from half guard and when they escape side control. So the trigger position I came up with was “they underhook, I whizzer”, but that didn’t seem complete to me. As I learned more and more setups from all kinds of positions, I kept looking for aspects of the choke that stay true regardless of the particular setup. They didn’t always need to underhook me. In fact, it’s even better when they don’t since then I can skip crossing their arm. So what am I really looking for? Last week I got together to train with a friend. Normally I restrict myself to a few techniques, since I know I can go nuts and pull out a bunch of moves and have a lot of fun and learn nothing. But on a whim, I decided to run myself through an inventory of every brabo choke setup I know. Not to drill each one, but to refresh myself on all the ones I knew. To my surprise, rather than getting lost in techniques, I started consolidating my knowledge. The different setups started blending together and I saw how to take from one and apply it to another. The next day I was hitting brabos from all kinds of positions I normally never tried, since my arms were just finding the grips on their own. When I sat down and thought about it, I realized my arm was automatically going for this trigger position:
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My arm reaches through their armpit and grabs behind their neck. Them underhooking me is definitely one way to get there but far from the only way. This is good news, since people are already afraid of underhooking me, and now I don’t really care since I can work towards the choke without them feeding my the arm.
Side Control Armdrag Let’s look at how this bears out in action. You can make them give you the trigger position even if they don’t underhook.
I’m in side control. They have their arms in good posture and aren’t trying to get the underhook to escape.
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I give them some room to turn into me but they still don’t want to escape that way. Instead they are framing my neck and pushing away. My hand slides across their chest and grabs their triceps just above the elbow. I want their hand resting in the crook of my elbow, so we’re actually sharing a mutual grip. This traps their hand so they can’t circle their arm out.
I drag their arm across, crossing their elbow over their chest. I pull them to me slightly to turn their shoulder up. Then I lay my chest on their arm and use my chin to trap it. Keep control of the elbow since they’ll be fighting to pull it back or circle their arm out.
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I keep pulling their arm to me as I swim and uppercut my other arm through to the “new” trigger position.
I pull my arm out then shove their elbow in with my palm. They may try to swing their arm over their head to escape, so I need to make sure I keep their arm trapped with my chest and head in the moment when I let go to switch my grips. Once I’m shoving their arm in, I give myself enough room to put their arm on their neck (since it’s going to be up by their face at first), then I lay my chest on it again once it’s in place.
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From here I simply close the choke and do the usual to finish. You can do similar setups by grabbing their wrists or their sleeves and dragging their arm across. This also works from half guard when they are afraid to underhook.
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OldDog53 said: Another $25 in the “tip jar” for being so awesome. Yes, newness and novelty DO count. I’d like to learn stuff before it’s made its way through every academy and finally ends up in a book somewhere. So your efforts are appreciated. BTW, I don’t think this is a banned “advanced technique” for me. I have been working on arm triangle submissions starting from side control, but they call for a mount, then dismount off the other side. It will be fun to play with this and see if there are fewer steps (although snaking the arm “under” looks like it could be challenging). Anyway, for some reason I have been making more progress (in the relative sense of the term) with arm triangles and guillotines than with leg triangles…counter to the natural order of things. I’ve emailed my instructor to ask if he could try this out and then drill with me on Sunday. He’s pretty openminded about drawing from “all available sources” if he can validate the move for himself with his advanced students, which is very cool. # 29 June 2007 at 10:28 am
codemonkey76 said:
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i seem to always have trouble shooting the arm that deep, i don’t have long skinny arms like you though # 1 July 2007 at 5:11 pm
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One-leg Guard 13 November 2006 168 views No Comment At our meet up, Leo taught me a guard that Marcelo showed at his last seminar. He calls it the “one-legged x-guard” since it ties into the normal x-guard game. It’s a really strong position for sweeping and has obvious leglock potential. Marcelo taught it as what he has been doing now that people are wise to x-guard and will prevent him from underhooking their leg to avoid it. He’s now also playing a guard game that’s based on overhooking the leg (which is easier to do at a distance) and wrapping their trapped leg with both of his. I’d seen Marcelo use it successfully on black belts, but thought it was just improvised, but it turns out he really does play like this on purpose. You can see a similar sweep at about 1:00 in this video. Here’s how it goes:
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While playing open guard of some sort (probably sitting guard and trying to get x-guard) overhook their leg as you kick your left leg through the middle. Your right leg is hooking behind their far knee.
Wrap your left leg behind their leg and step on their near hip. Your right hand pushes on their far knee to keep it away.
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Then bring your right foot to the same hip. Or you can hook under their thigh like you’re doing a leglock. This is the main position. Keep your knees pinched tightly around their leg and push on their hip with both heels. As in x-guard, grab their far ankle as soon as you can. To sweep, straighten your body and shove your heels into their hip to push them back. This may be enough on its own to sweep them. Holding the ankle too makes it all the stronger.
After the sweep, there is an obvious ankle lock or you can take out your feet and come to your knees. Just tonight I used this successfully several times in a row on a blue belt with a 90 lbs. (or more) weight advantage. He tried to come down and crush into me but the power of both my feet on his hip was enough to push him off and straighten his leg. As with the ankle grab x-guard sweep, I couldn’t reach his ankle at first, so I tried to sweep without it, which he countered by bringing his base closer so I could grab his foot. Then I swept again and down her went. I ankle locked him after the sweep both times. He tried the normal leglock escape of kicking his leg through deeper, pulling my lapel, trying to sit up, etc. but because both of my feet were on his hip, none of this really worked.
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Brabo Choke Homework: Crossing the Arm 27 June 2007 96 views 3 Comments The next point to cover is how to deal with their underhooking arm. Like in the triangle, you want to cross their arm. Also like the triangle, it’s not completely necessary, but it’s best form, the cleanest technique and makes for the smoothest finish. They can use that arm to create a little space (so their shoulder doesn’t squash into their neck), or they can do Jeff’s escape of throwing the elbow back and grabbing their leg and kicking out. I’ll show how I prevent those escapes while adjusting the choke even deeper.
Here you see them trying to escape with an underhook, grabbing my leg as they come up for a takedown. The hand on my leg is my problem, so I’ve got to kill it somehow. Sprawling
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A simple and natural reaction is to sprawl like you would to defend a takedown. Throw your legs back and drop your hips to the floor. You may need to turn your hips from side to side and bounce a little to shake their arm off. Stay on your toes and drive in to put pressure on their triceps with your chest to help crush their arm and prevent them from reaching up (and maintaining their grip). You can finish from the sprawl too, but I’ve found you’re more likely to just crush their neck without choking them. As you’ll see, there’s still more adjusting you can do for a cleaner choke, and other finishing positions give you better pressure for the blood choke. Mule Kick
The problem I have with sprawling is that people can often hold on to my pants even with their arm stretched out. Or I’ll break their grip, but they get it again as I come back to my knees. This is why I
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prefer to do a mule kick. I switch my legs so the knee near their head is on the ground, then I kick my foot to the sky. I’ll keep kicking and shaking and lifting my leg until I feel their grip break and their arm fall between my legs. Put you chest on the back of their arm to press it down.
After I’ve broken their grip one way or another, I’ll come back to my knees, trapping their arm between them. Try walking slightly towards their head, but not all the way to north-south. Changing this angle between your bodies will let you reach your choking arm deeper since you’re not stretching it so far. The reason we didn’t do this earlier is because it gives them a better angle to get to their knees, but that’s less of a threat now that they don’t have the underhook any more. Take this moment to adjust and tighten your grips again; there is now usually an inch or two of space around their neck that you can close up now that the arm is crossed. Drop your shoulder, uppercut, wiggle deeper. You can finish fairly well from here by crunching them into you, pressing your elbow in like you want their head to meet their belly, and dropping your shoulder to the mat. But I like to take it even further since I’m going to sit-out to finish.
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I step up with my leg near their hips to give myself space.
Then I step in with my other leg, putting my knee up past their elbow, so my thigh is pressing on the back of their arm. Their arm is now crossed all the way to the other side of my body. I may even take a second here to adjust my grips even a little deeper.
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Now when I sit into them, my body (ribs, stomach, hips, thigh, knee, something) is blocking their elbow and pressing their arm across their neck. My top foot comes to their hip to prevent them from getting up. I keep scooting my hips into them, dropping my shoulder to the ground, twisting my upper body and squeezing the choke. The “best” time to cross the arm is when you’ve got the figure-four grip, since it’s the most secure. But you can do these steps while you’ve still got other ones. It depends on what they are defending. If they are blocking your next grip in the progression, start trying to cross their arm. Either you get that or they switch to defending it and you go back to working your grips. The idea is to be aware of your multiple goals and work towards each one, intelligently switching from one to the other so they’re trying to catch up.
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ShadowExplosion said: Just wanted to say thanks for your continued work on the brabo choke, its really added a strong element to my game that i was lacking before. Also wanted to add, that ever since seeing jeff’s brabo counter you posted i find it most efficient to hook over their left leg (and only the left leg) with my right leg and coming back through to the kneeling position (so that their hips/legs end up crossed, left over right), it seems to take away their option of getting flat to their back or working jeff’s counter, and gives me far greater control as they are locked up tight without the free range of movement they have if you only have a hold of the shoulder/head. Works especially well when i have to contend with the really strong guys that give me a hell of a time trying to finish the choke. # 28 June 2007 at 2:41 am
WhiteShark said:
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Does Trog ever get to choke you? :) # 29 June 2007 at 12:24 pm
sco said: i love those keiko gi shorts. where can i get a pair? oh, excellent stuff too. the brabo is now becoming one of my favorites. ;) thx! # 19 July 2007 at 3:48 pm
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Bow-and-arrow Choke Re-counter 10 November 2006 200 views No Comment So we’re clear, a re-counter is a counter to their counter. I stole the word from Stephan Kesting. If you’ve been following along with this series, you would have seen the basic rear collar choke, the totally awesome bow-and-arrow choke and the basics of back control and using monkey feet. Let us now return to the bow-and-arrow choke, only this time there are complications. You’ll often run into a problem when you go to spin out for the choke.
Everything looks good: they’re on their choking side, I’ve got the collar, I’m gripping the knee and ready to spin. But one big problem: my bottom leg is trapped.
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As you can clearly see from this side, my bottom leg is pinned to the floor. This prevents me from spinning out like I need to. This may happen when you’re going for the choke when you’ve already rolled them to their side. Or they will often try to escape this choke by driving their back to the mat. Or both. Regardless, you need to correct this before you can finish the choke.
To free my leg, I pull their knee towards me to lift their hips as I take out my hook and bring it under their body.
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Alternate angle: You can see me sliding my leg out from under their body. I am pulling their knee up to raise their hips and take their weight off my leg.
As my leg comes out from under them, I’ll drive forward and push their knee away so I can come up to my knee.
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Once I’m on my knee, I’ll slide it up towards their head.
From the other side, you can see that I am stepping on the floor with my left leg for base. All of my grips are still in place.
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A detail I worked out recently was to hide my elbow inside my knee and pinch it to the back of their head to prevent them from pulling my arm over their head.
I sit and throw my right leg forward.
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I pin the shoulder and trap the arms with my legs. Finish like usual. Huzzah.
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Brabo Choke Homework: Progressive Grips 27 June 2007 159 views 2 Comments More notes from my brabo choke homework.
Thinking Like It’s a Triangle This may seem obvious to you, but it took me a while think of the brabo as a triangle choke. Yeah, I knew literally that it’s an arm triangle—that’s not what I mean. I had a “just slap it on” attitude towards it, where I’d give up if I didn’t hit it in one shot, which isn’t how I think about the triangle choke with the legs. With that move, I know to be patient while I work towards my ultimate goal, fixing several points at once: maintaining position, breaking their posture, getting the correct angle, getting the proper contact with their neck, working to close the full figure-four, crossing their arm, etc. You have multiple simultaneous objectives, and which one you’re working on changes depending on its importance and how well they’re defending it. Once I started looking at the brabo along similar lines, it started clicking more and my success rate with it has gone way up. The main points I fleshed out were 1) how to get the arm triangle tight using progressive grips, 2) how to cross their arm and 3) how to apply finishing pressure. First, I want to go over the idea of using a series of grips to work towards tightening and closing the final choke. I’m big on giving people credit if they gave me ideas or teach me. I didn’t come up with any of these grips, but I did collect them from scattered resources and put them together. If you’re been following my brabo choke homework, you know the usual suspects for my inspiration/plagarism, so I don’t feel like re-re-recrediting them again here. It gets tiring to have to keep citing sources, but it’s a habit since people go “HURR RIGAN DID THAT FIRST” if I don’t. Or if I do. Doesn’t really make a difference. Anyway. Let’s start off. Assume we’re joining a brabo already in progress. They are trying to escape side control with an underhook, and I’ve whizzered my arm in for the brabo. Notice how I lay my head on them like I’m listening to their shoulder. This helps me drop my shoulder and reach deeper. I want to get my hand all the way to the back of their neck. If I don’t have my whole fist seeing the light of day, I won’t be able to get the choke.
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An important detail you’ll see in the photos below is how I keep pressure and weight on them so they can’t get to their elbow. They need to post on that elbow before they can get up. While I want them turned on their side enough to exposure their head and arm, I don’t want them to turn to all fours, since they have a better chance of taking me down or escaping then.
Progressive Grips You hopefully won’t need to use all of these grips to get the choke. You can usually skip ahead if you’ve got good timing and are quick, but I think the best way to approach a subject like this is to work from worst cases scenarios. Some of these grips are stronger than others, but each has its time and use. Each grip has the purpose of cranking their head in and bending their neck (or at least prevent them from straightening it any further). Pulling the Head
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This is one of the weaker grips but it’s also often one of the easiest to grab right away, particularly if you already had a crossface. It’s not very good for forcing their head in, but it’ll prevent them from stretching away too far. It’s also useful for maintaining control and contact if they start trying to bring their knee into your hips and stretch you out (like in z-guard) since you can reach farther with it. Stuffing the Head
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By rotating your palm on the back of their head, you can switch to one of the strongest grips. Shove their head in like you’re trying to stuff it down to their hips. You can really cram their head in with this one. Trog showed me how he was taught to use this grip to pass half guard by sprawling until their legs open and walking around. I can understand why, since it feels to me like the most pressure on the neck. Darce Grip
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Keeping constant pressure, slide from your palm to pushing with your wrist and grab a palm-to-palm grip. This is the famous D’arce grip. It offers a lot of control without being tiring to maintain. Scissor your forearms together and pinch your elbows. Pull their head towards you like you’re trying to shuck it under you. Short Man’s Brabo
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From the darce, you can shoot your outside arm through and grab your wrist and forearm. Keep your elbow in tight so you don’t give them room to pop their head out. You can use this to crank their head in as you slide your hand up your forearm towards your biceps. You can also use your outside hand to grab their shoulder and prevent them from getting up or (if they do get to their elbow) grabbing their triceps and breaking it down so they fall on their side again. Shove and Uppercut
One of my goals is to get the crook of my elbow tight to their adam’s apple and my forearm along the side of their neck. It’ll neck crank them more if I don’t get that deep since it’ll just be my forearm crushing their throat or muscles. As I’m progressing through all of these grips, I am constantly trying to shove my choking arm deeper and
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deeper. The motion is like doing an uppercut as I drop my shoulder. You can see this in the above photo. I’m doing it while I shove the back of the head. This is my favorite time to uppercut since I feel I can get really deep, but you can do it (to greater and lesser degrees) while holding any other grip. Try to do it any time you can, but the best times are right as and right after you’ve cranked their head in. In the moment it takes from them to try to straighten out again, you can shove and wiggle your arm through a little more. Finishing Grip
Once you’ve got your choking arm deep enough, you should be able to put your wrist in the crook of your elbow. Your palm and fingers should actually reach around to the back of your triceps. If you’re only just grabbing your biceps with your hand, you’re more likely to have the grip break or slip off, and you can actually hurt your fingers. It also probably means you didn’t get the choke tight enough. Your outside hand reaches up and grabs their top shoulder as high as it can. My personal trick for making
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sure I’m doing this right is to try to bring my hand up until I can put my chin on it. Doubt the chin really helps but it feels proper. That’s it for now. The next point I’ll go over crossing the arm.
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codemonkey76 said: good stuff, keep it coming # 27 June 2007 at 6:19 pm
chris colquitt said: I have a question for you: Have you seen the entry that Rick Estrada shows on subfighter? He basically get the “guillotine grip” with his overhooking arm gripping the arm around the head. He will then use his elbow as a pivot on the back of the head and pull the overhooking hand through straight to the “short man’s brabo”. if you’ve used it, let me know what you think. if not, give it a shot. I find its an easy way to keep pressure and get my hand through. CC # 2 July 2007 at 12:00 pm
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Bow-and-arrow Choke 10 November 2006 515 views No Comment It’s time for me to reveal my secrets. Below is my current favorite choke. It is extremely high percentage, so much so that you’ll actually feel like it was too easy. Oh, you think I’m joking but I’ve had people come back to me and say just that. You’ll have maybe two or three fingers in the collar and spin out for this and think there’s no way it’s really that tight. It doesn’t feel that tight to you. Then they tap. It’s magic. And I’m going to share this magic with you.
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I am going for the basic rear collar choke (as seen here), but they are keeping their left arm tight to their body, denying me from reaching under to grab the collar. Notice how low my grip is on the collar. This may be because I am unable to feed it deeper, or I just plan on doing the following choke already. This choke actually works better with a looser grip; gripping too deeply in the collar can actually put stress on your wrist later.
Unable to get under their arm, I reach down and grab their knee with my left hand.
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I pull myself to the knee as I throw my left hook across their body and take out my right hook. I need to spin out and bring my right leg behind their head before they can put their weight on my leg and prevent me from doing so.
After spinning out, it should be like they’ve fallen backwards into the space you opened up. Notice how I am sitting up, not letting my hips be trapped under them. You know you’ve got it right when their head is 09/06/2009 8:49
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resting on your thigh. Keep ahold of their knee so they can’t run or roll away.
To defend the choke, Greg has reached up and grabbed my arm to try to pull it over his head, which will stop it.
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To prevent this, I throw my legs over his arm until I’ve pinned it then I cross my ankles. Do this whether or not they attempt the defense. I just taught it in this context to show you how to stop a common defense.
The important detail at this point is to make sure your calf is on their shoulder in order to lock down their upper body. You’ll find that if you keep working to trap this arm, you’ll catch it like it’s in the crucifix or even put them into triangles.
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To finish, I lay back and arch my shoulders, pulling on the lapel and the knee. The grip on the knee prevents them from turning away from it. This is a really powerful choke since it puts your entire back into it.
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A Part of Bjarni’s Half Guard Game 30 November 2006 106 views 4 Comments Bjarni Baldursson of Straight Blast Gym in Iceland put together an excellent tutorial on two aspects of his half guard, and he was happy to let me share them here. What I found especially interesting about his material is how it’s very similar to Eddie Bravo’s, but has little variations. His lockdown has a slight difference in foot placement. He gets the underhook much like Eddie does with the Jaws of Life, and he gets the butterfly hook almost like Eddie’s Super Stomp, but neither are exactly the same. I like to see the little differences that happen when multiple sources work on the same positions and strategies, and what Bjarni shows is very solid material. I’m going to be working on this to see if I can’t revive my underhooking half guard game. From Bjarni’s Half Guard Game Just wanted to show you a part of my half guard game. It’s mainly what I use to get the underhook and block the cross face by using lockdown and pushing the guys chin, or if that doesn’t work I go to Butterfly half guard.
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Before I continue I’d like to point out that I don’t use this kind of lockdown, as it traps one of my legs and makes it harder to get to Butterfly Half Guard.
Instead I use this one. I pull my left heel towards me and press on my right calf with my left toes.
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When he’s cross facing me with his left shoulder I use the lockdown and extend my legs to pull him down, and get the pressure off my chin.
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1. I push on his chin to make him look to his right. (It’s important to push on the chin and not on the side of his head cause it’s really hard for him to resist that.) 2. By doing that I create enough space to get my right hand through his armpit and block the cross-face. 3. I simultaneously a) press with both hands to push his chin/head further away and b) move my torso left and turn a bit into him. 4. Continue pushing with my right arm while I get the underhook with my left hand. 5. Go as much under him as I can. 6. Move my right hand off of his chin and on his left bicep. If, on the other hand, he keeps his head down so I can’t push his chin to the side, I try to go to Butterfly Half Guard. Most of the time when he pushes his head down the legs get a little lighter so I’m able to lift them.
1. I lift his leg up, almost kicking it up. 2. Swing my left leg in. (It’s difficult to do this if you use the lockdown that’s on the first picture.) 3-6. Get the hook in and secure his leg.
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OldDog53 said: Pictures 1 & 2 in the unnumbered top sequence make sense; but I don’t understand the third unnumbered picture from the top. It looks like Bjarni’s no longer has his practice partner’s leg trapped, and looks more like a traditional figure 4 guard (with the left leg straight on the outside) but without a leg trapped. Huh? The comment about using the lockdown to relieve some pressure from the shoulder cross face to open up space for the Jaws of Life look-alike technique is helpful. I didn’t know that. Pushing on the jaw instead of the temple, huh? # 30 November 2006 at 7:03 pm
Bjarni said: Hi OldDog53 You were asking about….. “but I don’t understand the third unnumbered picture from the top.” Just wanted to show the cross-face. “Pushing on the jaw instead of the temple, huh?” If you push on the guys temple he can push back with his head, but if you push on his chin/cheek his jaw joint can’t take the pressure of pushing back against your hand! Hope this helps :D # 1 December 2006 at 7:41 am
blanko said: great stuff!!! # 2 December 2006 at 8:54 am
blanko said: also pushing his jaw turns his head and it “prevents” his neck and his back becomeing one “line”; that also takes some of his strength away. # 2 December 2006 at 8:57 am
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Back Control and Monkey Feet 13 November 2006 87 views No Comment Leo Kirby, a purple belt in South Florida, and I have been conspiring to breakdown Marcelo Garcia’s game from the back. Leo has been to four seminars and done like 16 hours of private lessons with Marcelo so he’s got more hands on experience with what I’m going to share. I picked up a lot of the same points from watching footage of Marcelo competing and watching him roll at the seminar. Here’s the basic formula: When you’ve got the harness, the arm that’s over the shoulder is the “choking arm”, the one that will attack the neck. You want to roll them to the side of the choking arm. And you only really need to worry about keeping the hook in on this side. So what can you do with the other hook? From watching footage of Marcelo competing and observing him roll at the seminar, I’ve picked up several options. Leo has confirmed these and given more several more. You will see Marcelo constantly working on his opponent with his free leg, busily hooking and dragging and locking it all over the place. Here are the tricks we’ve gleaned thus far.
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You can take it out and step on their hip to monitor it. You could even take it out and step on the floor to shrimp back and keep your hips free. When you’ve got someone like this, one of their main escapes will be to try to roll to the other side and drive their back to the mat as they turn to face you.
When the bridge to try to do this, you can put your hook behind their knee and lift, preventing them from turning.
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I don’t use this control much, but Leo was adamant that I include it since he says Marcelo will do this a lot and RNC from it. The bottom hook goes really deep and the free top hook triangles around the leg with it. It’s like a backwards half guard, and it’ll be familar to anyone who likes the twister. Leo says that Marcelo will get this when people are trying to scramble away. He does a really strong “cobra stretch” by driving his hips in and arching his legs back. He does this same stretch from this position or with both hooks in when he’s finish the RNC or any rear choke.
The top hand gets a one-on-one on the wrist and pushes it down towards the hips.
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The knee comes down on the elbow and pinches the arm to the body, pinning it.
They will usually straighten their arm while trying to free it.
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Which gives you an opportunity to throw your leg over the arm and hook it. Now that arm can’t help defend their neck. I actually just go straight to hooking his arm without breaking it down or pinching the elbow with my knee, but those are needed if they are keeping it well hidden from your hook. Happy hunting.
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Fixing Common Rubber Guard Problems 29 November 2006 149 views 6 Comments I was going to save this for after I’d covered everything about my tournament, but I couldn’t resist the urge to share it after receiving my copy of Mastering the Rubber Guard by Eddie Bravo yesterday. From what I’ve seen, the most common problems with (and arguments against) rubber guard are getting stacked, getting passed too easily, the demands on one’s flexibility and the risk of injury. I’ve experienced all of these problems myself and had mostly given up on rubber guard because of them. It wasn’t until I attended Eddie Bravo’s seminar that I gained renewed interest and faith in the rubber guard. He taught details that handily fix most these problems. Seeing him teach it in person and hearing him repeatedly stress certain points made me realize how I’d be doing it wrong all along. I was missing all the little details on the grips and positions that are hard to pick up from photographs. I now think most complaints about the rubber guard come from people who are studying it out of pictures in books and websites, like I was. It’s hard to learn the right pressure to maintain while doing rubber guard and you’ll miss little but important details without seeing and learning it in person. I’ve only just gotten into the book, but already I see that Eddie has devoted a lot of the book to breaking down these details and the strategies that are missing from his previous book and online tutorials. Let’s see if I can’t offer something he didn’t with a couple little details I’ve worked out.
A Common Problem I want to open with a common problem I used to have with rubber guard, and one I suspect many others are still having. If you’ve played with rubber guard, you’ve probably had this happen more times than you care to count.
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You’ve broken their posture and gotten mission control.
Your opponent reaches back. Oh boy, you can feel your triangle coming!
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But before you get anywhere, he’s blocked your leg with his elbow and is crushing it to the mat. He’s not out yet though, so maybe there’s still hope for you.
Oh no, now you’re screwed. He’s gotten his knee in and really killed your rubber guard.
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Maybe you’ll catch them in a “half rubber guard” of sorts and try to work from there (as I’ve seen done, and as Eddie shows in his book with moves like the Carni), but I’ll bet they’ll just keep driving through and try to explode your groin.
You’ll likely let go of your rubber guard because of the pain and pressure, and if you’re lucky and they don’t pass outright, you’ll end up in half guard.
The Fixes In his book, Eddie devotes an entire chapter to troubleshooting common problems from rubber guard, including what to do when you they’ve stepped over your free leg. But I’d rather just avoid the situation entirely.
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I worked out these details by experimenting with what he showed at his seminar, but I now see he describes them in the introduction to the rubber guard chapter of his book, in the section “Troubleshooting Mission Control”. Consider this the pictorial companion to his words. To start fixing this problem, we’ve got to move back to before we’re even in rubber guard.
I’ve got a normal closed guard and I’m breaking their posture.
I step with my right foot on the hip as I climb my other leg up the back. This is actually where you start setting it up so he can’t pass over your leg. It’s hard to see, but you need to understand that I am squeezing my knees together with constant pressure, pinching them to his sides. I call this the “thigh master”.
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When I grab my foot and go to mission control, my free leg is still thigh mastering against his ribs. Compare this to the first picture in this tutorial, paying special attention to the position of my knee, and the relationship of his arm to my thigh. My knee is up under his armpit and my thigh is behind his triceps, blocking him from behind his elbow or reaching back and pressing down on the inside of my thigh. Eddie stressed this point over and over again at his seminar, saying the ability to maintain this constant squeezing pressure with your legs is extremely important to a tight rubber guard (or any closed guard). He also said (and writes in his book) that it takes a while to build the endurance to keep the thigh master on all that time, but it will pay off when you can. I’ve been trying to work the constant thigh master into my closed guard, and it’s one factor I attribute my tournament wins to. If you keep a constant squeeze (as well as pulling your heels to your butt), any high guard game becomes drastically tighter and harder to posture out of. Once you’ve got your legs conditioned, it’s harder to high guard well with loose legs because they’ll be able to posture up and rip out whenever they feel in danger. So putting in a little extra effort beforehand will prevent a lot of problems from arising later. I can cover the basics of defending the stack as well as minimizing flexibility abuse and joint injury (which go hand in hand) at the same time.
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Here is a view of mission control from the side. The first point to notice is that I have my foot on the hip. This is my first defense to the stack, allowing me to push them off when they drive in. Simple enough. Eddie covers counters to the stack in his book that actually sweep and submit them. This foot on the hip is also what saves my joints and reduces the demands on my flexibility. Even before I use it to defend the stack, I can use my foot on the hip to tell if I’ll be able to easily get rubber guard or not. If I can’t get my foot on the hip, I know my guard is too low and I’ll have to pull my leg too high to work rubber guard. I’ve seriously hurt my hip joint before by not keeping this point in. Another way to gauge this is by the position of his head relative to my stomach. If he is at my sternum or above, I know I’ll have to really stretch to pull my leg up for rubber guard. If his face is in my stomach, down by my hips, then I know I am high enough that it won’t be hard to get rubber guard. Look at the angle between my back and my left leg, with my hip as the corner. It’s nothing extreme, like having to bring my foot to my face, and this is because I made sure to get my guard high enough that I could put my foot on the hip. I know a lot of people have hurt their knees and even their ankles while trying rubber guard. I’ve never had problems with this, thankfully, and I think it is because I have always tried to bend at the hips more than trying to pull my knees or feet around. When you’re going for more demanding moves like tight omoplatas or gogoplatas, be careful with how much you pull your foot and how much stress is on your knee, and try to get your leg into place by bending at the hips. Rubber guard does demand a degree of flexibility that most people have trouble with at first. Go easy at first, and don’t try it on anyone who’s going to spaz out and thrash out of it. Work on your flexibility; Eddie’s stretching chapter is great for this. Drill it for a while to get the steps and positions down. If you want to really get into the rubber guard, I highly recommend picking up a copy of Eddie Bravo’s book, Mastering the Rubber Guard. What I’ve shown here is just a couple little scraps of the complete game he’s designed.
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OldDog53 said: Most excellent, although on my Training Log I’ve been banned from discussing or showing any interest in Rubber Guard until I have lost my newbieness. # 29 November 2006 at 4:23 pm
Aesopian said: You are violating your parole. # 29 November 2006 at 4:24 pm
OldDog53 said: This isn’t a question about actual Rubber Guard techniques, just the general theory, so hopefully I’m not violating my parole. But IYHO (in your humble opinion) do you think Rubber Guard is principally no-gi, or do the techniques work well with a gi? We know that Eddie’s big thesis is that a lot of gi techniques don’t translate well into no-gi because you lose your gripping points, but is the opposite true as well, that no-gi techniques lose their edge when you put the kimono back on because of all the added gripping points? (By Rubber Guard I don’t mean just Mission Control etc., but rather the whole flow-charted and interrelated sequences Eddie shows in the new book, like Butterfly Guard, Twister Side Control, Half Guard, the gi-less guard passes, etc.) # 30 November 2006 at 12:24 pm
Aesopian said: It all works with the gi on. The friction is just different, sometimes for the better, sometimes for the worse. You can even add gi grips to most of his stuff to make it tighter, though your opponent can also use gi grips to defend it. # 30 November 2006 at 12:27 pm
Dochter said: Continue discussion here: http://www.aesopian.com/forum/general/topic-2/ ? # 30 November 2006 at 2:01 pm
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Aesopian said: Here, actually: http://www.aesopian.com/forum/techniques/topic-3/ # 30 November 2006 at 2:11 pm
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Stupid Simple Armdrag 8 November 2006 213 views No Comment This is the next installment in the stupid simple sweep series.
Starting from knees. I have combat base, where I’ve got one knee up and I’m sitting on my other leg.
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Jon reaches for my lapel to get the match started.
I grab his wrist with my left hand and pass it to my right.
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I cross grip his sleeve with my right hand, using a pistol grip.
I kick my left leg out and step on his knee. If you saw the first stupid simple sweep, you’ll know the extremely important detail on how I do this. Hint: push on the inside to the outside, then back, not straight back.
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I kick out my other leg and plant it on his hip to keep him stretched out. I am also crossing his arm to the other side.
I fall back using my upper body weight to stretch and keep crossing his arm. I keep kicking out his knee and pushing on his hip, going for the sweep.
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SURPRISE TWIST! He bases out and postures back to defend the sweep. This is what I said would happen when I taught the stupid simple sweep: they will often be able to defend it. So I sit back up and get ready to take advantage of this.
My right hand comes off the sleeve and grabs his triceps. My left hand is still gripping the wrist and passing it under my right arm.
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I lean forward, getting shoulder to shoulder. My left hand comes off the wrist and grabs the belt.
Wanting to just finish the sweep, I fall back again with my new super deep grip on the arm and keep kicking out his knee.
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I twist to come on top. Note the Halloween underwear.
Now in mount, with the arm still hugged across my body. In the super bright white of his arm, you can see I’m still grabbing his triceps. Let’s say I don’t want to sweep him but take his back instead. Rewind to this point:
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I’ve armdragged him and I’ve got a grip on his belt. Since I want to take his back, I’ve taken my right foot off his hip and put it between his legs, like I’m going to half guard.
I lift my left leg way up in the air…
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...and swing it down, giving me the momentum to sit up without posting my hands on the mat or releasing my grips.
I get my chest on his back and take a harness grip, reaching under his far armpit and joining hands. I cinch my elbows to my ribs to glue me to his back. It’s hard to make out in the photo, but I have also gotten to my right knee while keeping my foot in place to act as a hook.
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Instead of trying to climb all the way up on his back, I fall back and use my harness grip to pull him down on to his side. You know what to do here. But I’ve got some extra details I picked up from Marcelo Garcia and a friend named Leo Kirby that I’m going to share anyway. When I’ve got the harness grip, if I can put them on their side like this, I only need to keep one hook on the same side as my choking arm. In this case, this is his right side, my right hook and my right arm. My left foot is free to do different things. I could just put it in as a hook like normal, or I could do this:
I am stepping on his hip (to keep him turned on his right side) and I am pinching the side of my knee down on his left arm, pinning it to his ribs. I could use a one-on-one grip to pass his arm down to do this, but I just skipped ahead for this photo. This is a surprisingly strong way to trap the arm since it holds it in an awkward position.
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If they do straighten their arm to escape, you can hook it with your leg, like this:
Now he’s foyally rucked. You’ve now totally killed that arm, and if he takes out your right hook, you can still switch to the crucifix. What makes these work so well in combination with the stupid simple sweep is that when they posture back and trying to pull their arm out, they actually give you something solid to climb in order to get on their back. God, I’m just totally awesome.
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North-south Escape to the Back 28 November 2006 310 views 9 Comments Consider this the first edition of Aesopian’s Tournament Tested Techniques. I’m starting off the series with the north-south escape that saved my bacon in the final match of the light weight blue belt division. This move takes some flexibility in your back and hips, and long legs certainly help. I don’t recommend it as your main escape from north-south, but it’s well worth knowing so you can use it when the situation calls for it.
I am in the unfortunate situation of being stuck under north-south. I need to make sure he doesn’t hug my arms, or I won’t be able to push on his hips, and worse, I’m more vulnerable to kimuras.
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Reach out and grab his hips with both hands. Shove him away, trying to lift his hips and scoot your chest down.
At the same time, stretch your legs and plant your feet…
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...and drag yourself out some. Use the line between the mats as a reference to see how I’ve escaped my hips out. This is where the reverse shrimping you never do and I get scoffed at for drilling comes in handy.
Shoving their hips and escaping yours down should put your head under their chest. My arms and neck are extremely exposed so I need to be quick with the escape.
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When he sprawls to try to stop all of the wiggling I’ve been doing, I lock my arms out and shove his hips as high as I can.
I quickly start a backwards somersault motion, throwing my legs up on his back.
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I get the first hook in and use it to pry myself out the rest of the way. This is where a flexible back and long legs make themselves valuable. They will likely try to keep your upper body down and smash you from here.
To minimize the stress on your back and neck, roll over one shoulder.
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Just keep digging your hooks in and using them to pull yourself on to their back. “Walk” on your shoulders and shake your upper body out until you’re free.
Free your self completely and enjoy your new position on their back.
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OldDog53 said:
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You said, in part: “To minimize the stress on your back and neck, roll over one shoulder.” Does it matter which shoulder, based on which leg hook you get in first? And in the picture just above that caption, why doesn’t blue just push you back down (push forward)? (Yeah, I’ll have to try it, once we get open mat time so I can corner a practice partner….) # 28 November 2006 at 4:39 pm
Aesopian said: They will do that, and it will stop the escape sometimes, but once I’ve got a hook in I can almost always pull myself out. The counter to this escape is to drive in, drop your hips and flatten their hips out. # 28 November 2006 at 4:41 pm
blanko said: nice move # 28 November 2006 at 4:58 pm
Garbanzo Bean said: A hidden special feature of this technique is that inserting the first hook often off-balances the opponent enough to roll him over onto his side a bit, making it easier to insert the other hook and climb up the back. If you’re having trouble jumping all the way to the back with hooks in-be it from lack of flexibility, short legs, whatever-think about hooking your first leg to go over into the back of your opponent’s belt, then sinking your hooks from there. Much like the original escape, it’s not your best option, but it’s there and can be effective. # 28 November 2006 at 7:10 pm
Garbanzo Bean said: I guess I just learned how to strike through words. # 28 November 2006 at 7:12 pm
Dochter said: I’ve actually gotten this sortof via the method GB mentions. I have had the most success in setting this up by first doing the leg pendulum swingy thing and then going to the single hook.
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Didn’t JohnnyS post this awhile back on Bullshido? # 28 November 2006 at 7:53 pm
Aesopian said: Johnny showed a similar escape a long time ago but the photos are no longer online. I was trying to find it when I was putting up his other tutorials. # 29 November 2006 at 10:53 am
Dochter said: That’s what I figured. As I recall it was generally scoffed at when first posted. I too thought “no way in hell is that going to work for me”. I remember appreciating the irony when I first got it. # 29 November 2006 at 12:07 pm
Dochter said: In response to your opponent pushing you back down, depending on their hip placement and head position you can sometimes somersault them over you and take their back similar to how Viera takes people’s back while they’re turtled. The sometimes should really be “once in a very rare while”. Quite amusing to get though. # 29 November 2006 at 12:09 pm
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Stupid Simple Sweep 8 November 2006 158 views One Comment The first in the stupid simple sweep series. This sweep is not very flashy or complicated, nor is it at all original or unique. It is pretty simple, maybe even stupidly so, thus my name for it: the stupid simple sweep. And as I’ll explain later, you’ll rarely get it exactly as shown below. But none of that stops it it from being my one of my current favorites.
Jon is in my closed guard with posture, holding my lapels. I am cupping his right wrist with my left hand and cross gripping his sleeve with my right hand.
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I open my guard and step on his hips with both feet. I keep my knees pressing in towards him so he can’t easily reach back and push them down.
I straighten my legs and push off his hips to scoot away.
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I sit up then quickly jerk my chest back as I shove my hands up, stripping his grip off my lapel.
I sit up again after stripping his grip. My left foot comes off his hip and steps on the inside of his right knee.
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I sit forward and cross his arm as I kick his knee out, blocking it with my foot. EXTREMELY IMPORTANT DETAIL: Do not try to just push their knee straight back—that won’t work. They’ve got a lot of weight on the knee and pushing straight into it won’t move it much. Instead, push it out (from the inside) to spread their knees apart and then push it back. This is much, much easier, as you will see if you experiment a little with it.
From the other angle, notice how my foot is still on his hip. I’ve tried to switch to a butterfly hook at this point, but it doesn’t have much power to lift them when I’m sitting so far away. Instead, it serves more of a purpose on their hip, helping to stretch them out. I will also use my knee and shin on his chest to help twist him for the sweep.
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I fall back, using my body weight to pull his arm and I keep pushing his knee out. Notice how stretched out Jon is. You won’t always get it this good in sparring, but you can sure try.
If everything goes exactly as planned, you get this really exaggerated mid-sweep shot. Most people won’t really get this stretched out, but this gives you an idea of how much commitment I put into it.
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As he rolls sideways, I twist my hips and come on top.
Tudda. Mount. As I said at the start, you’ll rarely get this sweep as shown here. If you do get it, you’re lucky if you get it on your first try. But that’s not really why I go for it. I just like to use the threat of this sweep more than anything. This sweep is really simple, not much more than just pulling their arm and kicking out their knee, but this is actually its virtue. You can just keep repeating it over and over and over again until it works or they give you something else. Keep kicking out their knee, breaking their base, breaking posture, crossing the arm, stretching them out. Over and over and over. They’ll posture, they’ll pull back, they’ll try to post their hands and feet, they’ll try to stand up, they’ll go to combat base, they’ll do all sorts of stuff. But none of those really stop you
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from just trying to hit this sweep again. As simple as it is, they’ve got to defend it, and it’s how they react to this that will setup other sweeps and submissions. Later I’ll show how I armdrag and take the back off this. If you’re good boys and girls, I’ll also use it to setup a triangle-armbar. For example, just yesterday, I rolled with two purple belts and probably went for this sweep ten times on each one. I’d go for it but they’d defend somehow, so I’d reset enough to go for it again. And again. And again. By about the fourth or fifth time, they’d have fallen enough behind that the next time I tried, it actually worked. Or they’d be so messed up from trying to recover that I’d switch to another sweep or a triangle. Talking to one of them afterwards, he said that he felt like he was always behind, trying to catch up and could never settle himself to even start passing. So keep the pressure on, keep threatening this sweep, go for it with commitment over and over again, and they’ll fall more and more behind, until you finally get them with it or something better. A little more on the grips. Here is the one I use:
One hand cups the wrist and the other pistol grips the gi. I like this grip for several reasons, including 1) the pistol grip controls them trying to pull out and is good for pulling them back, 2) the grip on the wrist controls side to side movement well and prevents them from doing an easy circular grip break and 3) my fingers don’t get wrecked when they rip out. You could also grip this way:
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Pretty much the same, only with a different grip on the sleeve. It’s more secure but more taxing on your fingers. Or this way:
This grip probably gives you the most pulling power on their arm, but doesn’t control it much in other directions and is easier to escape with circular grip breaks. But mostly it just rubs my knuckles raw until they bleed and turns my hands to claws when they rip their arm out.
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codemonkey76 said: It’s all seriousness until photo7, both of you can’t keep a straight face, lol # 9 January 2007 at 10:45 pm
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Heel Drag Side Control Escape 25 November 2006 192 views 2 Comments I’ve had this sitting around for a while, but since I use it in my soon-to-be-released tournament footage, I felt I should get it up on the site so I can refer to it later. If I owe anyone for this escape, it’s probably Roy Harris. My first good mount escape (and still my favorite) is the heel drag, which he showed on his website as a drill to improve hip movement. Somehow, I mutated this move and applied it to escaping side control and the end result is a knee crank that ends with me in half guard.
I have been caught under side control. They are clasping their hands around my upper body and head. I have my right foot on my left knee to close the space around my stomach so they have less room to take mount.
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Most important of all, despite being under side control, I have good posture. My arms are between his chest and mine, with my elbows in and my hands by my face. My left forearm is across his neck and my right hand is by my cheek, defending the crossface. My left elbow is inside his arm, since he will be trying to underhook it to lock down the position. Regardless of what escape I want to do, having correct posture is extremely important. If he’s underhooking my arms or trapping them with his knees, I’ll have trouble with any escape. If I’m spazzing out and hugging him or grabbing over his back or headlocking him, I’m just preventing myself from escaping. And I must have reverted back to being a gotarded white belt or something. If you take anything away from this, it should be the importance of proper posture. This escape and most others won’t mean much without it.
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To begin the heel drag escape, I straighten my right leg (the one nearest to their knee) as I use the other one to turn my hips on their side.
I step over with my left leg over and hunt for their leg, trying to hook my heel on the far side of it. Someone with a good top game will hide their foot so you can’t hook it this easily, so don’t get your heart too set on this escape if you can’t hook their leg after 2-3 tries. Give up on it for the moment and just go back to the normal elbow-escapes and such. But while you’re doing your standard escapes, you may find that you’re forcing them to scramble to keep you down, and they’ll often leave their leg out by accident, giving you just what you need to nail this escape. So like all moves, use this in combination with others, not as a one-shotter.
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I catch their ankle and drag my heel back, lifting their foot as their knee gets blocked by my thigh.
I bend my leg, trying to bring my heel to my butt, so their foot slides up behind the back of my knee. This adjustment is what traps their leg (so they can’t drive up and pull their foot out) and is what really makes the move work.
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I scissors my legs, stepping on the floor with my left foot as I try to bring my right leg under their knee. I also hip into them like I want to roll them to my left (which will actually happen sometimes). This creates a knee cranking pressure that can hurt pretty bad, and they will usually try to relieve it by lifting their knee and straightening their leg, making it easier for you to pass your right leg under it.
From above, you can see how harshly I have twisted their leg. I am still cranking their leg back with their ankle trapped behind my bent knee. My right leg has now passed to the other side, giving me half guard. I am bending my leg and using it to block their knee from trying to drive back out to side control.
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To relieve the pressure on their knee, they will drive it to their right, which firmly lands them in my half guard. My escape is now complete. Next begins the half guard game, but we’ll go over that another day.
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Dochter said: This is a common technique at my school, and one that I personally use a lot under both mount and side control (and for the remaining leg under half). There is actually a nice way you can take mount from side if your opponent likes this move. Give your opponent the far leg (in this picture series, the left leg) to hook, without them realizing which leg it is. Now you basically have grapevined the one leg. Drive the knee of the free leg up to KOS and toward their stomach and then into their far armpit. This move works best when you’re grinding the hell out of their face with your shoulder from side and they can’t see what you’re doing. When your opponent is savvy to this method of taking mount it is easy for them to stuff it (and possibly sweep you) but it can be quite effective. It has been particularly effective against me when I’m facing an opponent where I have to be very effective and aggresive (i.e. when they way outclass me). # 28 November 2006 at 1:29 pm
Dochter said: I should say, I don’t do it quite how you do but similar. # 28 November 2006 at 1:30 pm
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Basic Rear Collar Choke 13 November 2006 164 views One Comment This weekend, I had planned on shooting a series on breaking posture from closed guard, but my training partner Trog showed up. We’ve been working on a series of back attacks and chokes together so we felt it’d be a better use of our time to shoot these instead. We’ve got some awesome collar chokes we’ve been doing that we wanted to share. But before we get on to the awesome ones, there are some fundamentals I wanted to cover first. Nothing below should be that new to anyone who trains, but I am trying to build up the number of detailed tutorials of basic moves that are available online. We’ve already got plenty of advanced moves and a lot of poorly done basics, but I’d like to see more solid fundamentals done in great detail. So with that in mind, here is the… Rear collar choke
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We are in a sitting rear mount. I have both arms under his armpits, gripping both lapels. This gi grip is very secure grip, giving you a lot of control over his upper body and allowing you to easily stay behind him if he tries to turn to face you. I have both my feet hooking over his thighs, with my heels pulling into his thighs. Do not cross your ankles or they’ll triangle their legs over your feet and ankle lock you. Do not grapevine their leg by hooking your toes behind their knees. This is just awkward and can lead to knee injuries.
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I pull out my right hand and reach over his shoulder, grabbing the opposite lapel.
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I reach deeper into his collar, using my left hand to pull the lapel down and feed it deeper. This is the detail I see most often forgotten, yet it can be the deciding factor to whether or not the choke works.
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I reach across with my left hand and grab the opposite lapel.
As I go to finish, I fall back to my right side to put them on the opposite side than they need to be to escape.
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To finish, I straighten my arms, stretching them out like I want my right to shave the top of my left. My right hand is pulling the collar across the neck as my left hand pulls down on the lapel, taking out the slack. I am arching my shoulders and puffing my chest out to get the power of my back into the choke. My hips are driving into him and my hooks are flexing back. The power of this choke comes from putting your entire body into it like this, not just pulling on the lapels with your arms alone. This may be one of the simplest chokes from the back, but it’s also one of the most powerful, and it is necessary to threaten it to setup the chokes I’ll be showing later, so be sure you have it down right.
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Afrofeet said: This is choke how I learned also. But last weekend i was at Leo Neves seminar (BB under Leo Vieira I think) an he ask me to choke him. I did it like this and he said that is no good. Then he show us the way he choke. The main thing is space. You have too much space for him to escape. Head to the head, and more one the side like on this picture http://www.grapplearts.com/Images/PhotoOfTheWeek/Joe-Doerkson-Collar-Choke.jpg # 2 May 2007 at 12:52 pm
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Marcelo’s Half to X-guard Transition 13 November 2006 243 views No Comment Leo Kirby showed me a way Marcelo gets x-guard from half that I found really interesting. It takes a movement that I never really liked doing from half guard (though sometimes do anyway when in the position) and gave it a good tweak.
You have half guard on their left leg. Your right hand is ready to defend the crossface. Your left arm is underhooking their right leg. Ideally, this would be really deep, with their leg on your shoulder, but realistically you’ll just get a hand under their knee.
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When they go for the crossface, duck your head and swim your right hand under their armpit.
Shove their armpit and ribs to send their upper body away.
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Big Important Step: Switch your hips in them hard, like you want to go between their legs and under to go behind them. This hip movement and the shoving of their chest throws their weight forward.
When they’re knocked forward, bring your left leg up behind them and step on their near hip.
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Then bring your right leg up and step on the hip too. Use this to keep their weight off you.
They’ll likely stand and try to turn into you. This is like the one-legged guard shown above. Keep your feet on the hip and pinch your knees around his leg. Your right hand pushes on their far knee to prevent them from coming closer.
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The left foot comes off the hip and hooks under their far leg, the start of x-guard hooking.
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Then your right foot comes off the hip and hooks under their far knee. Presto chango, x-guard.
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Stupid Simple Scissors Sweep 9 November 2006 198 views One Comment While planning the stupid simple series, I decided to show how to do it off a failed scissors sweep. But then it struck me: in all my interneting, I’ve never seen a good and detailed scissors sweep tutorial. Those that I have found lack a lot of important details or are not even what I’d call a “scissors sweep”. So I resolved to shoot my own instructional of the move and put it up along side my stupid simple sweeps.
Here it is.
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Jon is in my closed guard with posture. I grab just under both his elbows. I don’t know which way I want to sweep him yet so I hold both arms.
The placement of this grip is more important that you probably realize. If I were to just hold his wrists, when I went for the sweep, even if I pulled his hand away, he’d still be able to drop his elbow to the mat and post on it. With this elbow grip, I can take his elbow and forearm away.
Starting to stand, Jon gets to his right foot.
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Seeing his right foot go up, I get a cross collar grip on the opposite side, since that’s the direction I’ll be sweeping him.
I’m sorry to say that I made an error in this photo. I should have reached under his arm to grab the collar, not over. It just gives you better inside control of his posture.
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I open my guard and straighten my left leg, making it heavy and stiff on his thigh. I use this to lift my hips, slide backwards and turn sideways.
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In addition to my Halloween underwear, from this angle you can see how I am stiffening my leg against his thigh to lift my hips, scoot back and turn on my side.
After scooting away and turning sideways, I drive my knee across his waist, so my shin is across his stomach and my foot is hooking his hips.
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From the other side, you can see how my knee has penetrated all the way to the other side. Also notice how my bottom leg is laying on the mat away from his knee. This space is important later when I want to chop out his knee.
Now I pull him forward to break his balance and lift him with my shin. But there’s more to this than you may realize—I know there is more than I realized. Most people will just pull down into themselves, with their elbows going down to the mat. This is weak for two reasons: that just pulls their weight down on to you and your elbows hit the ground before they can generate much power.
I train with a brown belt codenamed Mean Jeff whose number one sweep is the scissors and has been for years. Having been on the receiving end of it several thousand times, I can tell you that he’ll make you do airtime and flip over before hitting the ground, not just fall sideways as you do in drilling.
While teaching a class on nothing but the scissors sweep, Jeff showed how he does this. When he pulls them, he actually tries to bring his elbows over his head, like he wants them to fly over him. He said its like how judoka do kazushi for throws. The movement is what a Raspado, a purple belt in BJJ and green in judo, calls “looking at your watch”, where you bring your wrists up to your face.
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When you do this, you’ll feel their weight come off their legs, making them really easy to scissors now, since their center of gravity is no longer resting over them.
From the side, you can see how I’m doing “judo elbows” on him and taking his weight off his legs.
My bottom leg chops out his knee. When I do this, I make sure to slide it along the mat and hit them at the very bottom of their knee. Some people have a habit of lifting this leg and chopping them at the waist, which doesn’t take out their leg.
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Twisting my hips to come on top.
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Now in mount. Notice how I’m still holding the same collar and elbow grip. You can use this to take an armbar in the last photo instead of mounting, but that’s for another day.
I’ve seen a lot of people complain about the scissors sweep, usually about it being so basic that everyone can counter it. I think part of this is that too many people wish it were a one-shot sweep, like it should magically work the first try. Another lesson that came out of Jeff’s class is that, like with anything in BJJ, you need to have different setups and follow-ups for the scissors sweep to get the most out of it.
So below I present the equivalent of the stupid simple sweep as a follow-up to a failed scissors sweep.
As should be clear from my expression, I went for a scissors sweep but it failed. Jon was able to keep his base.
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I bring my bottom leg up and step on the inside of his knee.
Kicking out his knee, I scissors my top leg again and do judo elbows. You should know the extremely important detail on how I push the knee from the last two tutorials.
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Twisting my hips to come on top.
Mount with smugness.
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slideyfoot said: Thanks for this – in combination with the Abhaya vid you found on Google, provided me with the basics in order to get the scissor sweep working in class today. Awesome tutorial! :D # 20 December 2006 at 5:20 pm
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Johnny’s Butterfly Guard Passes 22 November 2006 74 views One Comment More from black belt John Simon. Here are two butterfly guard passes for your pleasure. I like both of these and use them quite regularly and successfully. I consider them “lazy” guard passes because to do them properly you get your grips and then “fall” past their guard.
The set-up involves having both of my knees on his hooks. My left hand reaches around his right leg and grabs the bottom of the pants on his left leg.
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From here I use my right hand to grab his left sleeve.
Then I simply fall onto my right side.
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My opponent will try and put me in guard which he can’t do because I’m controlling his legs.
Straighten my left arm away from my body and get to side control. This next pass is good to use when your opponent is sitting forward.
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Start with the same grip on his pants.
Next, grab his collar and pull him forward. You need to make sure that his weight is on his ass, not his legs so he can’t pull his head away. If he does manage to pull his head away, then go straight into a toreando guard pass.
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I bring my right knee up with my foot against his left hip and my knee in the gap between his body and his legs.
Then I simply fall onto my right side to pass.
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Complete into side control.
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blanko said: n i c e # 2 February 2007 at 6:29 pm
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Brabo Choke Homework 12 March 2007 782 views 2 Comments First off, watch this 44 minute brabo choke tutorial by Bjoern of Grappling.de. This is what got me in the mood to go over this move. The brabo choke (or whatever you want to call it) is a technique I’ve been practicing on and off for a while now. Recently, with my focus on no-gi chokes, I’ve once again devoted myself to analyzing and developing it. Since the beginning of my training, I’ve had a habit of collecting grappling information online and cataloging it. This article and its brabo choke tutorials, photos and descriptions gathered from all over the internet are a result of this compulsion. This choke, like it’s cousin the anaconda, has gone in and out of vogue several times in recent years. Its rise in popularity tends to follow a victory in competition. The problem is that with each new appearance, it takes on a new name. Grappling and Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu suffers from horribly disorganized and confusing terminology. I believe this can be a fairly serious (or at least annoying) obstacle to beginners. It also makes broadly sharing techniques difficult since everyone seems to have their own vernacular. You have to dig through a maze of Japanese, Brazilian and English—much of it slang—and deal with different arts having their own names for the same thing. What’s the difference between a kimura, a bent armlock, a keylock, a double wrist lock and ude garami? Not much, besides the name. We won’t solve all the problems of grappling taxonomy today, but I will try to make sense of the brabo choke and its various names. The first name I heard this choke given was “the Shaolin”, after Vitor “Shaolin” Ribeiro’s success with it. (Vitor also has another “Shaolin choke” with the gi.) Otto Olsen credited it as such after using it in ADCC. Later it came to share the name “brabo” with a lapel choke that is done from a similar position. I dug up a little history on this name. From an interview with Leo Vieira: Q: In the current edition of Grappling, Jacare is in demonstrating the Brabo choke and he
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mentioned that you used the choke a lot. A: Yes, I used it a lot, but I don’t know why they say I created it, as I always look to develop something and look at the white belts training and I saw a white belt use it something like that, and then I think ‘man, this can happen’ and then I worked on this position and everyone started to call it the Brabo choke; Kid Peligro put the name to it, he loves to put names for position (laughs). Q: Does the name mean anything, Brabo? A: It’s when something is aggressive and my old email used to be Leobrabo, then when I showed it to Kid, came up with the name Brabo and it kind of stuck. I believe he’s talking about the lapel choke, but like I said, they’re similar in terms of position and ended up with the same name. Most recently, it has taken on the name “the darce”, after Joe D’arce who was taught the move by “New Zealand” John Danaher (both are Renzo Gracie black belts). Joe visited Marc Laimon’s school and was catching guys with it, so Marc took it and taught it to guys like Jeff Glover and Bill “The Grill” Cooper. At tournaments, Marc began yelling “D’arce him! D’arce him!” to coach his guys, and his competition quickly adopted the name too. This spawned variants such as the Marce for Marc’s own setup and the Sharce for Shinya Aoki’s uchimata with whizzer to brabo choke. Baret Yoshida calls it a reverse guillotine. Shinya Aoki calls it the spinning choke. Ignoring the nicknames, you might objectively call it a reverse arm triangle. There are really too many names for this move. I’m not an authority, but I’ll explain the ones I use: Brabo – The arm triangle grip and submission, regardless of setup or position. Darce – A brabo choke setup using a gable grip to crank their head into position. Those are the only two names I use. (And I may switch to using “darce” exclusively, since it can’t be confused with any gi chokes.) Another common confusion about the brabo choke is how it is different than the anaconda choke. They often look like the same thing, but they’re not. Viewed from the front headlock (your opponent on all fours, facing you, and you sprawled with your chest on his back), the difference is how you triangle your arms. In the anaconda, your hand grips your biceps on the side of their trapped shoulder. In the brabo, your grip is on the side of their head. That’s basically it—you just close the arm triangle on different sides. This is still enough to change the positions the brabo choke is available and the mechanics of finishing it. Aside from the different names, the other time line you can follow is the availability of instruction on the move. It can be found all over the place now, but information on it used to be very scarce. The first time I read about the brabo choke online, I was told you could see Mike Fowler doing it in the
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Grapplers.com photo gallery. I dug around and found my first glimpse of the technique:
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Around the same time, someone on mma.tv took a photo of a Grappling magazine tutorial with Vitor Shaolin teaching it. I later found and scanned this same one myself:
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In the heyday of MMALibrary.com, I posted a collection of information on the brabo choke (much like I’m doing now). This inspired Christian Graugart to include it in his tutorial on countering the underhook escape from side control. He also showed a setup for it from reverse scarfhold in his new blog. Around this this time in 2005, I spoke to a brown belt who’d just trained down at Gracie Barra in Rio and he told me they were drilling the gi and no-gi brabo chokes. It wasn’t until Stephan Kesting put his interview and techniques with Marcio Feitosa up that we got our first real online brabo choke tutorials, gi and no-gi. Soca shows it from half guard in the preview for his no-gi DVD, including a good detail on the pressure to apply to finish the choke. Indrek taught it in the top game section of Functional Half Guard. A while back, I scanned a special Brazilian Top Team edition of Tatame magazine for it’s brabo choke tutorial. They show getting it from sideride, using a gable grip to force them to their back (as well as knees to the body, since it’s MMA).
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One of Joe D’arce’s teammates said this (minus the striking) is the signature way he does it. An aspect of the brabo that I found for myself and later saw in instructionals is that even when you can’t finish the submission, you can use it as a half guard pass. This is shown in Mayhem Miller’s video tutorial: Mayhem Miller Teaching the Darce
Rick Estrada of subfighter.com has done very good video instructionals of the brabo and its variations for a while now. Just recently, he released an 8 minute video on using a combination of grips to get it and other chokes that I found very helpful: Brabo Choke To Darce Grip Snap Back To DB-Darce Choke
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A sample of Shinya Aoki’s instructional DVD made its way on to youtube. His variaion shows the creativity that has gone into finding new setups for this choke. It’s come a long way from just being forced from half guard. Shinya Aoki Counters a Butterfly Guard Pass with the Brabo Choke
Joe Camacho recently put out a brabo choke tutorial where he passes guard to get it and finishes from north-south (which he feels is what makes it different than his darce). Jeff Rockwell shows my favorite brabo choke setup and finish in his no-gi chokes instructional. These are the main brabo choke resources available online. You can find even more in almost any recent grappling or MMA magazine and a number of instructionals, such as ones by Baret Yoshida, Marcelo Garcia, Shinya Aoki and Jeff Glover. From all these tutorials and setups, you can breakdown a number of factors: the range of positions it can be gotten from, the triggers positions to take it, the variety of grips used to cinch it, and the positions and mechanics for finishing the submission. By seeing how different body types and personalities approach the same move, you can gain a broader understanding of it and find a way that works best for you. I don’t do the brabo exactly like any of the tutorials I’ve shown here, but I’ve taken something away from all of them in one way or another. I’ll lay out what I’ve figured out from all this material later. You can chew on it by yourself for a while.
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OldDog53 said: I really like the way you compile various sources and put them in perspective. That’s much underrated. Plus you put all this material right at our fingertips. Kudos! # 12 March 2007 at 11:05 am
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OldDog53 said: Ok, I’m going to take a private lesson based on this tutorial. I’ve asked my instructor to review the clips here and then work with me on these chokes. # 4 May 2007 at 12:32 pm
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Rubber Guard Tutorial B-side 21 November 2006 207 views One Comment When I shoot the photographs for a tutorial, I’ll often run through the move several times from different angles to make sure I capture all the details and don’t need to reshoot later. As a result, I end up with a large number of photos that never make it into instructionals. The most extreme case of this was my first rubber guard tutorial, where I had shot the sequence once all the way through, but felt the angle didn’t show the grip changes well enough so I did it again. This left me with a ton of photos with nothing was particular “wrong” with them, just not meeting my personal standard. But rather than let these go to waste, I’ve decided to share them since 1) it’s nice to have a second angle on a move and 2) I think they offer some insight into how much flexibility I’m using, especially in my hips. So here’s the rubber guard to omoplatarmbar again.
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Gable grip on neck after breaking posture. Right foot on hip.
Mission control. Here is when to start judging how much flexibility I’m using.
Fist in place to zombie.
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Zombie complete. Jon’s arm is on the floor.
New York.
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New York from another angle.
Karate block my arm to the other side.
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Second angle.
Chill dog.
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More chill dog.
Begin kung fu move.
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Forearm and shin parallel.
Buddha palm strike to my ankle.
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To prevent the omoplata, Jon grabs my knee.
Grabbing his elbow.
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Yank the elbow, kick the leg, break the grip.
Triangling the legs around the arms.
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Grabbing the wrist to finish. So how much flexibility do I seem to be using? It didn’t feel at all extreme when I did it, but maybe I’m just a weirdo.
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Rogue said: Yeah, you’re just a wierdo. I know of what I speak. # 21 November 2006 at 4:08 pm
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Robson’s Guard, a Sweep and a Takedown 14 February 2007 130 views 2 Comments Leo and John have some new insight into and a slick sweep that build on the game taught to them by Robson Moura. From Leo: I watched my instructor, Edson Diniz, play this game last night. I didn’t even know that he could. One of the things I noticed is that the elevator sweep from here is much easier than from the normal butterfly guard. Here is why: When you have both hooks in you have to fall to your side. A common mistake most people make is that they fall to their back, then try to roll the person over. When I teach an elevator sweep from regular butterfly guard I tell them that they need to put their ear on the mat, this corrects this error much of the time, but not always. But if you have an underhook and the other leg is on the outside of his leg as you lift with the inside hook you are already on your side. Note the first picture here. My right leg is already turned sideways to the mat. In other words you really can’t do the sweep wrong. The common error that most people make is corrected with the foot position prior to the sweep. Edson did something else that was really cool that Robson didn’t do. When he had the underhook (the 4th picture here) and the guy had a whizzer on his arm and tried to force him to his back he reached under his whizzered arm with his right hand and grabbed the guy’s belt. He then spun under the arm and came up to get side ride position and take the back. It was a great move and when I practiced it it was pretty easy to do. I was showing this to John this weekend and he showed me something he has been having success with from Robson Moura’s game so we did a quick clip on it. The spin under really isn’t as hard to get as it might look. Here’s the clip:
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Eduardo, my instructor, teaches a takedown that this sweep reminds me of. I actually played around with doing the takedown from butterfly guard as a sweep. I got my hands on the photos he took of it for a Grappling Magazine piece he was in, so here it is: It’s going to be hard to understand the speed and momentum of this move from pictures alone, so just try to understand that you need to use a lot of both to get your opponent to flip over like shown. This a fast move and you don’t stop moving until it’s done.
You need to start by getting this grip from standing. When he grabs your lapel with his right hand, cross grip his sleeve and reach under it with your left hand to grab his lapel.
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Drop down and spin under their arm, like you’re doing a barrel roll.
Keep spinning and rolling on your back, trying to do a full rotation. The momentum and grip on their arm and lapel will force them to flip forward.
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Keep spinning and rolling as they flip over.
You should be rolling belly down as they land on their back.
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Come to your knees. You’ve still got control of his arm and lapel from the start of the move. From here you’ll need to drive into him and establish side control.
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Younghusband said: That takedown series is classic judo. Also found in Takenouchi Ryu. Just FYI. # 14 February 2007 at 4:48 am
monoplata said: yo my friends! here is an even more ridiculous choke by Robson Moura, along with like 20 other techniques that he showed at a seminar http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gafre3AS-HE&mode=related&search= enjoy, de nada! # 3 April 2007 at 11:33 am
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Johnny’s Butterfly Guard 21 November 2006 76 views No Comment Big thanks to John Simon of Dominance Mixed Martial Arts in Melbourne, Australia for sharing his guard game with us. I thought I’d put up some of my favourite guard techniques from my own game. The first picture is the standard way I use my guard, which I based off Margarida, although I do some things differently to him.
My right hand is in the collar. This allows me to do a few things: 1. Stop him putting his head on my hips to pass 09/06/2009 8:31
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2. Keeps him wary of my chokes 3. Gives me a good handle to control his posture. My left hand is controlling his sleeve to: 1. Stop him controlling both of my legs 2. Takes away one of his arms for passing.
The first sequence has me pulling my opponent forward. From here I can underhook the arm, move my body underneath his and sweep him to my left. Make sure with this position that you keep pulling the guy forward really hard with the hand controlling his belt so he has to post with his hand. You can also go to the back quite easily from this position as well as do a whole bunch of other sweeps.
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The next sequence is one of my favourite submissions from here. When the guy posts after I pull him forward, I underhook his arm and apply a cutting armlock.
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This next sequence is one I use a lot to get the butterfly sweep. After I pull the guy forward, he pulls back and postures up. I grab his wrist with my right hand, join my left shoulder to his body and pull him in tight with my left hand then sweep him to my right.
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This next sequence is for when my opponent is trying to posture up and back off.
I change my grip from his sleeve to his knee.
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I then drive with my right hand and pull with my left.
From here, go straight into a knee-through guard pass. I find the problem with the underhooks and overhooks that people show for butterfly guard is that they don’t show how to get them. Anyone can sweep somebody if they’ve got the grips, but how do you stop someone passing while you’re attempting to get those grips? Another advantage of the grips I’ve shown is the cross-lapel choke. I probably get this submission more than any other from the guard.
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With the grips I’ve shown, if the guy starts to turn to pass to my right and exposes his neck, I can go for the cross-lapel choke. The first thing I do is straighten my right leg to hook his right knee and buy myself some time.
Then I nearly strike the guy’s neck with the blade of my left hand.
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After that, I grab a bunch of his gi (with my thumb NOT in – it takes too long) on his back.
Then fall back and make myself like a ball so he can’t get past my guard or mount me.
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An Omoplata Control Position 12 February 2007 97 views 3 Comments I’ve seen and been taught many ways of controlling the opponent while going for an omoplata. The most common I see is to grab the belt. Depending on the setup, some have you hug the knee/thigh to your shoulder. Eddie teaches the jiu-claw, hugging behind both thighs. They’ve all worked okay for me, but lately I’ve been doing this, after seeing my instructor do it a lot and having him show it to me:
I am grabbing the end of the pant leg and straightening my arm to stretch it up and away. I keep scooting my hips away and making my leg heavy, like I want to touch my hamstring to the ground, to pressure their shoulder down. If they try to lift their leg and step over me, I just keep stretching their leg up and away. Every time I do this, they are forced to go flatter and flatter, taking away their base. 09/06/2009 8:59
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If they try to roll forward, I just keep stretching their leg back and away, and they can’t. Once I feel I’ve got them broken down enough (e.g. no posture, almost on their belly, shoulder on the floor), I’ll sit up and start grabbing the belt or hips, climbing up the back and getting upper body control, like the haress grip or grabbing the far lapel. Then I arrange my legs and sit up and drive forward to finish. You can try this no-gi by grabbing the ankle, but like all no-gi grips like this, it’s not as strong. Give it a try and let me know how it goes.
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Raspado said: This crap is fake. Doesn’t work. :) # 12 February 2007 at 10:18 am
JohnJ said: hes right it is fake that guy your holding could have gotten out if he wanted to # 28 February 2007 at 2:26 pm
jtothex said: I tried this last night and it worked like a charm, although the guy I tapped out was different from the guys I normally have trouble tapping out with an omoplata, so you could argue that my method isn’t all that scientific. He was a blue belt, though, so… # 12 February 2009 at 12:25 pm
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Johnny’s Triangle Escapes 18 November 2006 392 views No Comment Black belt John Simon of Dominance Mixed Martial Arts in Melbourne, Australia has more escapes to share. This time it’s getting out of the triangle. I’ve also done some escapes from the triangle choke. There’s nothing really “out-there” with these escapes, but they’re good solid escapes. The first one is probably the easiest to pull off if you’re a white belt and you get caught with your butt in the air.
You’re stuck in a triangle.
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Push your fist into the mat next to your opponent’s head, across your body, and stand. Keep your weight bearing down on your opponent so he can’t even think about throwing a leg over your head to do an armbar.
Now bring your right leg over his head.
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Grab his left leg, either hold his leg in place or straighten your arms as you fall back to release the triangle. This next escape is probably the most correct escape to learn because it teaches posture.
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Start by grabbing your opponent’s belt with both hands and getting your knees as deep under your opponent as possible.
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Now posture up, and drag your opponent up half up your body. Look to the ceiling when you first practice this technique so that you have to have good posture.
Now that the choke is no longer on, start moving your knees back, bring your left arm through and grab your own right forearm.
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Keep moving your body back until you can duck your head out of his legs.
Bring your left arm around, grab your opponent’s lapel and start to work your basic guard pass. This last escape is one of my favorites. If I get caught bad, this is my “goto” escape.
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Grab your opponent’s left knee with both of your hands.
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Then you need to “run” sideways and nail your opponent’s knee to the floor. As you do this you “strike” him with your right hip against his butt cheeks.
Keep hip-bumping into your opponent and shrugging your head out of his legs until your head is free.
Now pass to his back. Notice I grab the back of my opponent’s collar and pull it hard towards myself so he can’t lift his butt in the air and put me back in guard. You can also check out my counter to this escape. (No Ratings Yet)
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The Shinplata 2 February 2007 162 views No Comment A while back, Jeff Rockwell sent me a tutorial for a move he calls the shinplata. He didn’t want me to share the pictures until he could get better footage of it. Thankfully, that day has come. Check it:
A nice little move to retain your guard, sweep, or reverse your opponent. Sorry if it seems a bit rushed, I only had a few minutes to shoot this clip! (I should be stiff-arming his armpit while my shin is inserted, and gripping farther across his back on the belt.) Careful observers will see my son, the future BJJ champ of the world, watching videos in the background. You might think he’s watching Elmo, but no, it’s Mundial highlights! ;) For the sake of completeness, I am also including the original pictures and explanations Jeff sent me since I think they help flesh out the instruction.
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Intro This series of techniques is a combination of a few different strategies of guard retention and sweeping. It is part omoplata, part north-south escape, and part all its own thing. I use it all the time and with the proper timing and energy, it works even against opponents who underpass the guard tightly with a lot of pressure. Though it is shown here with the gi, it also works very well no-gi – though I find I usually end up with the reversal than the sweep. I apologize in advance for the grainy quality of the pictures, they were “cut” from live video. Part 1 In this first picture, my partner Mike is beginning a stacking underpass. He could have one leg on his shoulder, or both; he could even be passing a failed triangle choke attempt. The technique works the same for them all.
As he pressures forward and begins to turn the corner, I will place my right palm on his left hip, just to slow him down for a moment. Then I will thrust my hips as high as possible into the air. Depending on how tightly he is passing, sometimes you are only able to create a few inches of space. Once you get good at this, a few inches is all you will need. As my hips reach their highest point, I will straighten my right arm and place the web of my hand in his right armpit, bracing him here for just a moment.
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I will now quickly drop my hips and slide my right knee and shin underneath the bend of his left arm. My right hand will guide and control his elbow, while my left hand will control his wrist.
My left foot is on the ground, helping me to pivot my body around so that we are facing in the same direction, and I maintain tight control of his arm.
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Now I quickly take my right hand and secure a tight grip on his belt or pants. Sitting all the way up and reaching across his waist to control his far hip is also an option, just more difficult to get. We will address what happens if you are not able to control his belt or waist a little later.
Now keeping tight control of his left wrist or sleeve, I will extend my hips and drive with my right shin, sweeping him forward. I will also use my belt or waist grip to push and guide him over. NOTE: my right elbow should be over top of his left thigh here, to block Mike’s legs from spinning over top of me. If that happens, I will have to abandon the sweep and switch to the reversal. In any case, it is shown correctly a little later on.
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Here you can see that I am not trying to drive him straight over his head, but forward and then to the side.
I start to take the top position, still controlling his arm with my shin on his bicep and my grip on his wrist or sleeve.
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I sit up and momentarily establish a knee ride position on his arm, still pulling up on his sleeve or wrist. There are a number of options from here…
…but the easiest and most reliable is to drive your right elbow down to the mat underneath his right armpit…
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And slide down towards his legs to a reverse scarf hold position.
Part 2 Okay, let’s rewind for a minute and look at some potential problems you’ll run into and variations you’ll have to employ. In this first picture, I have been able to drop my shin under his armpit, get to the side, and control his arm. Unfortunately, he stabilizes his base very quickly and I am caught “hanging out” in this position, with my foot dangling right in front of Mike’s face.
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Now, if Mike was strong, aggressive, and liked lower body submissions (WHICH HE IS and DOES! J), he might be able to rip his left arm out of my grip, attack my foot with a fig.4 toe-hold…
…and make me tap out and beg for my momma. Now against your average guy, this really is not much of a threat. He has no control over my leg, hips, or upper body here, he only has his figure 4 grip around my ankle. Usually, I am able to simply extend my right leg, bring my left leg into play to break his grip, and turn to face him with an open guard. Against aggressive leg lock specialists, however, you may not want to risk it, as they can sometimes create enough pressure to do real damage even without controlling the leg. So…
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If you get caught “hanging out” in this position, you may want to triangle your right foot behind your left knee for added security.
You can still execute the sweep just fine, you just have to change the angle of your hips slightly.
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Another option to protect your feet and actually add more power to the sweep is to keep control of his arm, lift it slightly to make a little space…
…and insert your left shin underneath his arm as well. Now you have double the sweeping power, and you can cross your ankles to prevent any footlock attacks.
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Here is Mike going over with both shins controlling his arm. Notice how (this time) my right arm is in the correct position, clamping down on his left hip/butt/thigh. This is so that he can’t jump his legs to the left over my body during my sweep.
Another angle of the sweep…
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…and the finish. As with the first sweep, I am going to post my left leg out wide for base, and continue to pull up hard on his left sleeve or wrist. From here I can slide down to reverse scarf hold, spin to knee on belly, or attack with my “flying-reverse-cowhand-ten-finger-double-top-wrist-lock-choke”. Sorry, that one is secret, I just can’t tell you… it’s too dangerous for the ring. Only Ninjas, Navy SEALS, and pressure-point fighters can be trusted with that type of knowledge.
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Johnny’s Armbar Escapes 17 November 2006 103 views 2 Comments Here is another tutorial from black belt John Simon of Dominance Mixed Martial Arts in Melbourne, Australia. This time he’s covering armbar escapes using a figure-four grip. I’ve got some pictures and descriptions for counters to armbar. My partner is Murray Ballenden, an accomplished and extremely good brown belt.
Basic Grip
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This first picture is the set-up for the first two defences. I like this defence a lot because it’s simple and it also allows for counters to kimura. It’s basically a figure-four with the arms, with one hand on the bicep, the other with the back of the hand on the forehead.
Armbar from Side Control Escape
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The first defence is when the guy has mount with one knee up. He has my right arm underhooked and is going to armbar it. My right hand is on my left bicep and my left hand is on my forehead.
As Murray puts his left leg over my head, my left hand grabs the back of his knee.
As Murray sits back, my left arm starts to straighten.
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Finally, I straighten my left arm, pushing his top leg away, and pull my right arm free.
Armbar from Guard Escape The next counter is for the armbar from guard.
Murray controls my right arm ready to armbar me.
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I put my right hand on my left bicep and my left hand on my forehead.
As Murray attempts to throws his leg over my head, my left hand catches it on the back of the knee.
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Once again, I straighten my left arm and pull my right arm free.
Armbar from Mount Escape This last armbar is a counter from under mount.
I grab my wrists and wait for my opponent to sit back.
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As my opponent throws his top leg over my head I throw my arms to the floor above my head, throwing his leg off.
I then move my body up, over his top leg, pinning it and stopping him from coming back on top of me. To finish I would then spin and end up in my opponent’s guard. Triangle escape coming up next. (No Ratings Yet)
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Bunnymonster said: I thought I was the only one who had come up with the “rear naked choke/grab behind the leg” escape. What do you do if your opponent switches straight away to the bicep slicer? Keep up the excellent posts Paul # 17 November 2006 at 11:56 am
Dochter said: Count that as at least three independent developments. I’ve never been put into a bicep slicer from this so can’t help you there. # 20 November 2006 at 3:17 pm
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Five Swords Top Game 5 January 2007 184 views One Comment Christian Graugart of Combat Sports Academy in Copenhagen, Denmark was happy to share a tutorial with me so I could put it up on the journal. It was his site MMALibrary.com and the incredible tutorials he produced that first inspired me to start putting my own techniques online. I had always thought he set the standard for online tutorials, so it is an honor to get to share one of his.
A simple way of thinking about top game I have played this top game for quite a while now, but it is not until recently that I actually started to think about what I have been doing. I am trying to think a little outside the box position-wise, so the game has no fixed positions, nor does it follow the fundamental five for top game. For many years I have been fixed in the 3 basic top game positions, but this new way of putting my game in a system has completely thrown that away for me. Positions are now kind of made up along the way. May sound silly, but works really well for me. It is really simple. All I think about when playing top game is controlling at least one of five parts of my opponent’s body, in this text called “control points”. Each control point has an objective which is fulfilled if I grab one or more “handles” for that body part. If I control one or more I am OK; if I control none, I have to turn it up and get one quickly. And apart from being aware of the guard, that is all I do to prevent my opponent from escaping. I don’t block the guard with hand/foot/hip always, as some of the “handles” for the control points makes it impossible for my opponent to pull guard anyway. Nor do I worry too much about my opponent getting the underhook, as many of the handles combined with correct weight distribution will nullify that completely. What these handles do is of course “just” to keep my opponent either flat or turned away from me, which prevents him from escaping in other ways than turning away from me. If he choose to do that, I attack the back. Below, I have listed the control points, the objectives and some examples of “handles” that I grab to control as many of the five as possible. There are probably more, but these are what I use. In the bottom, I have posted a little video clip, where I play this top game in isolation.
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Hope this is useful for someone out there :) —-
Here are the five control points:
1. The head 2. The near side elbow 3. The near side knee 4. The far side knee 5. The far side shoulder
Ze Master Gameplan: Prevent opponent from turning into you by controlling at least one of the five control points. Preferably two or more. Be aware of the guard If opponent gets on his side, move 180 degrees around his head and control handles on opposite side right away. If opponent turns away from you, go to harness. —-
Control point one – The head Objective: Keep head turned up or away from you.
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Crossface / Shoulder of Justice.
Use forearm to turn head.
Skullride.
Prybar.
Grab shoulder for one-armed prybar.
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Grab gi behind neck for one-armed prybar.
Control point 2 – The near side arm Objective: Keep elbow from touching the mat.
Lift arm above elbow.
Hold elbow up using thigh.
Kill arm using hip.
Sprawl on arm.
Control point 3 – The near side knee Objective: Keep knee from touching the mat.
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Scissor grip with hand.
Scissor grip with foot.
Grab leg and lift.
Lift knee with thigh.
Control point 4 – The far side knee Objective: Keep knee from crossing opponents centerline. Underhook leg – diaper check.
Scissor grip with hand.
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Scissor grip with foot.
Control Point 5 – The far side shoulder Objective: Keep shoulder touching the mat
Underhook and put weight on shoulder.
Overhook and put weight on shoulder. —Now all you have to do to play top game is control at least one of these at all times :) Here is a little video clip of me playing around with this in some isolation:
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I don’t move very well in this clip because I have a f*cked up back injury, I am going to make a new clip when my back gets better. But you probably get the idea. I control at least one point always using the handles. If my opponent turns into me, I go 180. If he turns away, I take the back. Now go play ze zhoozhits! -Christian, SBGi Denmark (Thanks to Ken Allen for the help on the pics and video)
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PKN said: Mike Chapman calls this “tether”. Graugart explains it really well though. Now all we need is equally good explanations for “glide” and “pike”. “Pike” in particular needs a good instructional. # 23 January 2007 at 6:19 am
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Side Choke Sweep from Butterfly Guard 17 November 2006 91 views No Comment Jeff Rockwell of The Oregon Pound has a slick butterfly guard sweep to side choke that he was happy to share. Hey, I thought I’d try to add this to your technique archive. Let me know if it makes sense. I was doing this move a lot last year, forgot about it, then brought it back against a 280 pound wrestler a few nights ago. This move works especially well when your opponent crosses his feet and commits his weight on his hands when you rock him forward.
Here you start in butterfly guard with double underhooks, your forehead under his neck on one side.
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Rock your opponent straight back, as if you were going to roll him directly forward over his head. He will post with both hands to prevent this. This opponent is wary, however, and crosses his feet as he posts with his arms to prevent his legs being attacked for submissions or sweeps.
As his weight is suspended above you, you must simultaneously perform several movements. The first is to place your left hand under his right armpit to hold his upper body in place…
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Then weave your right hand (in this example) from under his left arm, and shoot it past the left side of his neck; Then duck your forehead underneath his right armpit, as you shoot your right arm deeply past his neck, until your right bicep rests against the left side of his neck.
Immediately clasp your hands palm to palm behind his right shoulder, as you pinch your right ear toward the opponent’s right ear.
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Shift your hips to the right, post your left foot on the ground, and perform a butterfly hook sweep to the left.
Straighten both legs as you finish the sweep for maximum power and extension, then immediately raise your hips and perform a cross knee guard pass to the left, passing to side control while maintaining your head and arm lock.
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Sprawl your hips flat to the mat and walk clockwise towards his head to finish the side choke. Finish with the Aurelio Method (as uploaded by Jeff Rockwell) and you’ll be all set. (No Ratings Yet)
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Simple Anaconda Choke Escape 15 January 2007 115 views 3 Comments Sorry about the lack of updates over the last week. With my neck injury and flu, I’ve been out of training, and so I haven’t had a chance to shoot new tutorials. I just got back to class today, and I made sure to shoot a ton of photos for instructional I had planned. It was to be about a defense to the anaconda choke, and re-countering it with a brabo choke. Unfortunately, all of the photos came out horribly, except this one, and I’m not too crazy about it either. At least the technique is good.
I’m doing a simple and easy defense to the anaconda choke. With my trapped arm, I’m grabbing behind my opposite leg and mule kicking. This creates space around my neck and forces his arm triangle to loosen. From here, I just hang out until they release the failed anaconda.
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I plan to explore arm triangles, anaconda and brabo chokes in greater depth soon. You’ll just have to wait while I reshoot everything to keep standards up.
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crabjuice said: This is similar to an escape from an arm triangle that my instructor showed last week. You use your free hand to pull the opponent’s elbow down to create some breathing space. Then you bring your knees up to your face and use the trapped arm to grab the knee of the opposite leg (if the left arm is trapped you grab the right leg) or to create a better hold you grip the knee with both hands. Then use your legs to create momentum and you can sit up and reverse into side control. # 16 January 2007 at 1:10 am
WhiteShark said: Nice T-shirt! Brock is my martial inspiration! # 16 January 2007 at 10:14 am
Garbanzo Bean said: DHS approves of both the technique and the Venture Bros tee. # 16 January 2007 at 11:27 pm
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Ezekiel with Your Own Lapel 15 November 2006 109 views No Comment Chris Colquitt from the Atama BJJ Forum on mma.tv created a tutorial for a great technique. I helped him with the image hosting and he was generous enough to let me repost his tutorial. Here it is: This is one of my favorite chokes. I picked it up from Jorge Jimenez, a Pedro Sauer blackbelt. Let me know what you think. I’m being nice to my partner by not applying a lot of pressure since we had to hold poses for a second or three for the camera to get a good picture. I thought it a good idea not to make him pass out.
To start, you need to grab the end of your lapel near the tip.
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Next, underhook his head with your left hand and drop your right elbow inside the lapel so it wraps over your arm. It takes a little getting used to to do this.
Now feed that lapel to your left hand and your right will slip UNDER the lapel.
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Now the fun part. Your right hand comes up and around the lapel, across his throat and under your left arm. I prefer going under, I know some people will just grab the sleeve and apply pressure. Pull with the left hand, push with the right. His neck should be stuck in a triangle that is getting smaller and smaller.
For a really mean finish, put a leg up and use it to brace yourself as you apply the pressure. Let me know what you guys think. I’ve seen people complain that moves that use the lapels like this are “too complicated”, but I disagree. I’ve gotten a lot of the “tricky” lapel stuff to work on guys my level and slightly better. I’ve seen Marcio Feitosa and Carlos Gracie both teach moves with wrapping lapel grips, ranging from setting up armbars 09/06/2009 8:34
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from guard to maintaining spider guard. Last year, a visiting brown belt did a ton of moves where he’d wrap the lapels around, ranging from ways to keep them from escaping the turtle to playing open guard. These lapel grips were getting really popular for a while. Here are a couple more “skirt moves” from the famous Bill Jones: Skirt choke from the back North-south skirt choke Skirt cross choke Foo foo skirt choke Half guard pass with skirt Skirt guard pass Skirt armbar
Two more by Andreh: Shaolin choke Ninja choke
Jacare has used this lapel choke successfully in competition. And the gi brabo choke by Marcio Feitosa, which is a grip you can also do from guard. So again, lapel “tricks” like this aren’t too strange or hard to make work. You just need to practice them like any other move.
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The Theory of Game Plans 3 January 2007 139 views 9 Comments This article began as a response to readers asking me about how I prepared for tournament. Then it was to offer insight into how I got my purple belt. Most recently, it’s how I’m filling a request that I discuss the theory of Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu more, not just the application. Let’s see if I can’t hit all those targets. During the weeks leading up to the tournament, I was training without any direction in mind. I was still trying out new moves, playing with open guards, switching focus every couple days, some x-guard here, taking the back there, all sorts of chokes and sweeps. This is what I call “The Fun Game”. The Saturday before the tournament, my instructor Eduardo grabbed me for a round of sparring. I kept trying to pull all of the funky fresh moves, and he just kept crushing them with controlled pressure and weight. After Eduardo drove through my guard and tapped me for the fifth or sixth time, I decided I had to change what I was doing. I don’t know how yet, I just knew I had to do something different. The next time we started, I just did what came naturally and immediately jumped to the tightest triangle possible and started aggressively attacking the trapped arm. From inside the choke, Eduardo wheezed “Yes! That’s it!” At the end of the round, Eduardo told me “I’m giving you pressure where you need it.” I didn’t appreciate what this meant until a week later, after the tournament. The rest of the week leading up to the competition, all I did was drill and train my high guard. This is what I call “The Game Plan”. Suddenly, none of the other blue belts could touch me. I even started regularly catching purple belts who I’d never thought I had a chance with before.
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Going into the tournament, I was calm and confident. Having a game plan eliminated all of the “But what if he…?” thoughts that run through most people’s minds. I won 3 of my matches by submission, exactly as I had practiced. Even in the matches that were won differently, I was always able to keep myself on track by working towards my goals, as ingrained by drilling my game plan. I would like to share the theory behind this mindset, using the two extreme ends of my personal games to illustrate it.
The Fun Game Open, loose, flowing, experimental.
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In everyday training, I’ll play around with new positions, like the one above, which comes from Roleta’s upside down guard and helicopter sweeps. I’ll see how far I can go with a new grip or hook. When I’m playing like this, I’m not overly concerned with maintaining position or getting my guard passed, which is fine for sparring, but will get me smashed if they’re serious, like in tournament.
The Game Plan Closed, tight, constrictive, conventional.
If I’m serious, I’m going to snap on the tightest closed guard ever, relentlessly break posture and climb up as high as possible. From there I’m going to lock my guard over one shoulder and attack the neck and arms and look for triangles and omoplatas. I know exactly what I want and I’m going to go straight for it—they know what I want, but they are going to go through hell to escape. You will develop your own style, so I’m not saying you must have a tight closed guard like this. You could apply this line of thinking to any position, and in fact, all positions as a whole. I’m simply using my personal style of guard to illustrate the more important point of finding your ideal game plan. The take-away lesson here is the different mindsets of these two games, and knowing when to use them. In my fun game, I’m playing with possibilities: “Can I? Can he? What if? Let’s see.” In my game plan, I’m working towards inevitabilities: “If I… If he… I will. He will.” Don’t mistake imposing your game with muscling moves. You should be as technical as you can be and not force a square peg into a round hole. But you should be working towards definite goals. Don’t confuse being technical with being lazy.
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Building a comprehensive game plan is intermediate theory, and requires intermediate skill, so I don’t recommend all of you run out and make one. Beginners shouldn’t worry about this too much. Especially as a white belt and for much of blue belt, you just won’t yet know enough to put together a comprehensive game plan. Nor do I think you really need one at that point. At that time, you’re still learning and collecting basic techniques, working on defenses and escapes, developing gross motor skills like bridging and shrimping hip movement. These are more important than a game plan, since they are the foundation that the rest of your training (game plan included) will be built on. The one exception to this is when you’re preparing for a tournament, but then the depth and level of detail in the game plan should match your skill level. For example, my white belt game plan was simply “Close the bamboos. Climb the bamboos. Turn turn turn”, which is to say “Close guard. Climb. Turn your hips.” Anything more complicated than that would have been lost on me then. With all this talk about the importance of a solid game plan, I don’t want you to think that the fun game isn’t also important. You could also call it the “learning game”, since it is where you have a chance to try new moves. The danger of a game plan is stagnating by never gaining skill outside of it. When someone comes along who has an answer to your A-game, you need a plan B to fall back on. The fun game is a needed balance to the game plan because it takes you outside of your comfort zone, which is important to expanding and improving your overall game. In this article I have only just described the concept of game plans in a general sense. In later ones, I will go deeper into the specifics of how to choose the specific positions and techniques. I’ve never seen anyone write a piece on strategy like this before. I know when I was telling people about this article, they were overjoyed since they’d always wished someone would lay this topic out clearly, so they could have learned these lessons before they went into a tournament with no game plan and got smashed. I’m happy to help fill the void, and if you’d like to see more, please consider supporting the journal so I can continue to share.
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OldDog53 said: You cheated. You didn’t talk about the purple thingy. You seem to be a bit of a phenom – the blue was fast, but the hallowed purple, which most instructors seem a LOT more reticent to hand out, also came fast, right? It would be nice to hear how things clicked for you – whether it came from massive amounts of mat hours, natural talent, extra conditioning or a history of athletics, study on the side, etc. We have to assume luck didn’t play much of a part. :-) It would also be fun to hear about training, conditioning, diet, the foundations on which a long, sustained, and demanding practice rest, and which don’t get discussed much at the academy (but
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get discussed too much, in a disorganized fashion, on the internet). For example: 1. How many days of group classes per week do you take? How many do you recommend for others, and does skill level/experience make a difference? 2. How frequent are your injuries, how serious, what is your strategy – grin and bear it, work around them, triage and only take time off for injuries that won’t heal if you throw more rolling at them…. 3. How do you balance the demands of work (school), social life, etc. (One guy at our academy admitted that he is happy his gf lives out of state since it gives him more time to practice!) 4. Do you exercise with weights, kettlebells, bodyweight exercises? After class? On days alternating with classes? 5. Do you do any extra drilling, beyond shrimps etc. in class? Do you see benefits from doing extra conditioning drills that are jits specific? In short, there seems to be a need for a concise beginner’s guide to jiu jitsu. Not a book, but a syllabus for the semester ahead. Not a road map, but a checklist. Not the peripheral items, but the essentials. Cliff Notes for the first year of life on the mat. (And not a guide to being another Aeso; just a guide for the “average student” who wants to end the year “better than average.) # 3 January 2007 at 5:58 pm
Dochter said: Nice write-up. Something most of us probably do implicitly but rarely explicitly. One of the problems I have is imposing my game on others (three blues in particular, my main competition at this rank). The difficulty lies in their imposing their game (which seems to mainly be crushing me from top) on me. I end up playing catch-up the entire time. Obviously that is partly due to holes in my execution. # 3 January 2007 at 8:08 pm
Bunnymonster said: And this my friends is what Llyod Irvin charges bajillions of dollars for… I think everyone needs to work on a gameplan, it was the one huge thing I took away from watching “the Twister” a few years ago and it made me realise that all of the top guys only really use five or six moves in competition. They are great not because they know more moves but because they know them better than you do. My biggest problem now is being motivated to train the “A-Game” as I find it boring and repetetive. I guess I need to get back into competing, once my knee is repaired… Nice post btw. # 4 January 2007 at 1:14 am
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Tenebrous said: Olddog, I think he progressed so quickly by being so clearly obsessed and technical. But I want the answers to your questions too. :) # 4 January 2007 at 1:29 am
Aesopian said: I don’t have any broad reaching advice on all of those points to offer at the moment but I can answer your specific questions. 1. I usually go to group classes at least once per day Monday through Saturday. Sometimes twice. I’ll sometimes take a day off if I’m feeling beat up or have other important things to do, but usually only if I’ve already got in 3-4 classes already. I recommend training as much as you can (balanced against injuries and burn out). Three times per week is probably the ideal for most people, since it gives you time to rest but is still enough to improve. Two classes may be okay for maintenance but difficult to make gains in. One class is not enough for anyone. 2. I usually have some kind of injury, ranging from annoying to serious. I’ll often train through less serious stuff like cauliflower ear, jammed fingers, sore joints, a generally beat up feeling, etc. I will take time off to heal if I have a serious and acute injury like a popped elbow, twisted knee, bizarre hip injury (that only I seem to get). Right now, for example, I have a pulled back muscle from yesterday which I expect to heal by tomorrow with some stretching. Nothing serious. But I also tore something in my abdominal muscles three weeks which has yet to heal, and it may be a hernia. It has gotten progressively worse so I am planning on seeing a doctor, though I’ll probably keep training too and just trying to baby the spot. You need to know your own body and be able to tell which injuries to ignore, which need a little rest and ice to heal, and which should stop training and require a doctor. 3. I don’t have a day job any more and I don’t go to school. My social life is after class and on the weekends. 4. I don’t do any conditioning like that. Unless you count stretching. 5. I do a lot of extra drilling and functional exercises after class and on Sunday open mats. I think this is extremely valuable. This is where most of my extra conditioning comes from. # 4 January 2007 at 2:00 am
Rogue said: I love that you mentioned “climb the bamboos”. Though some of the effect is lost when you can’t hear Eduardo’s voice as he yells that across the mat… or see the other guy’s face when he realizes 09/06/2009 9:03
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he doesn’t know how to defend it, because he doesn’t know what “bamboos” are. # 4 January 2007 at 9:41 am
OldDog53 said: Thanks Aeso. Your point by point reply to my longish post is very helpful. In particular, this advice is golden for me: “I recommend training as much as you can (balanced against injuries and burn out). Three times per week is probably the ideal for most people, since it gives you time to rest but is still enough to improve. Two classes may be okay for maintenance but difficult to make gains in. One class is not enough for anyone.” It’s great to hear that three classes a week is the tipping point where you can make real progress. I haven’t hit that magic number yet, but I’m getting there. I originally started with a single class a week – I am in my 50’s so it was pretty daunting to take ANY class that was a lot like competing in a tournament every week (the rolling is pretty intense at our academy since it is located near a major university and we get a lot of younger, athletic students, often with a wrestling or judo background, who are really balls to the wall – think several merciles AJ’s). Increasing to two classes a week was the first major step for me – plenty of time to heal (although at the time I thought my bruises were getting bruises and my injuries were getting injuries). Then I found that two classes a week still weren’t enough to make tangible gains – at least not when my classmates were doing three or more. Trying to improve my general fitness level in between classes with weights, conditioning drills, and stretches was helpful, but no subsitute for more training. Without consciously planning it, my first step to getting in more mat time, even before I upped to twice a week at the academy, was to take some private lessons from one of 10th Planet’s brown belts. I thought I was just learning a little about no-gi vs. gi, but in fact I was learning general jiu jitsu principles and applications, and after a while started rolling with the instructor, as well as being shown movements. At first I was apprehensive about rolling at all with someone who’d been a wrestler and a bjj tournament competitor, but unlike the over-the-top group rolling at the academy, he eased me into rolling gradually and progressively moderated his resistance and counters, turning rolling into an instructional, as opposed to a purely competitive experience. Of course at the end of a session he’d tell me he wasn’t going to hold back, so I could get a full feel for things, and that was also eye opening. I’ve now finally bitten the bullet and signed up for private lessons at my own academy, lessons that will carry me through the summer, from my own instructor. I was very happy to find out that, unlike the two instructionals I had observed earlier at the academy, where the instructor called out solo drills to the student or the student worked out with another student while the instructor guided them, in my series of lessons the instructor will actually be rolling with me, no training dummy. I think that rolling with a Brazilian black belt is going to really teach (my body) something about the game. I only hope he does the progressive thing, instead of just crashing me into an immediate wall of frustration and helplessness. So while I haven’t hit the magic number of three classes (rolls) per week, I have hit a consistent twice a week schedule, with private lessons here and there so that most weeks I am on some sort of mat three times a week. This doesn’t leave much time to watch my hallowed DVD instructionals
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(and I’ve never been able to get Gustavo Machado’s Great Escapes to work for me consistently), but I still pull out Mastering Rubber Guard when I’m – ahem – in the el bano and review a section or two (that’s probably my most valuable book, it’s laid out so buffet style). This is my sixth month of practice. The most important lesson I’ve learned at this point is that no matter how much I dance around the issue, or look for substitute ways to advance (private lessons, DVDs, conditioning) there is simply, at the end of the day, no substitute for rolling. Unfortunately rolling is daunting at times (although I don’t dread rolling with some particularly tough class mates the way I used to), and I literally get/feel “beat up” after each such session. So I’m glad to hear that 3 classes, and not 5 classes, a week is the “magic number!” I am also happy to hear that the Aeso has made progress at Eduardo de Lima’s – even against the athletic onslaughts of the Darth Vader-ish, athletic AJ – primarily through dedication and technique rather than extreme weight lifting etc. But please expand on your point #5 at some future date – for example what kinds of extra functional exercises do you do. I have now purchased Kesting’s Drills DVD (grin of shame) so if you have pulled some favorite drills out of there, please let me know. # 4 January 2007 at 12:52 pm
camarao said: Aesopian is no cheater! He’s also not a phenom but just an average guy with a big work ethic. Much like anything really worthwhile, there are no secret shortcuts. BJJ is one of the most honest martial arts out there and you will get you back exactly what you put into it—no more or less. Aesopian not only works his butt off on this website, he’s no keyboard warrior and is on the mat more than most (sometimes even when the academy is closed). If he’s training 6-7 times a week sometimes twice a day and the average bear gets 2-3 classes a week in… I’m not mathematically inclined but I think most others can figure it out. I’m with you OldDog53! It helps to be young with time to burn. I think Aesopian mentioned a back injury in a post and explained some stretching he did to recover in a day or so. I once saw him get his elbow popped in a sparring session and he used his youthful powers to heal it between matches. Since you can’t rewind time, just quit working to train more and start AesopianII.com to become independently wealthy ;-). In all seriousness, I think a decent recipe for anyone to achieve some kind of personal success in BJJ would be: Train all you can, spend any of your daydreaming time on BJJ and always come to class with at least one question in mind, always spar with different people, and (injuries permitting) spar a minimum of 3 matches every class. I think this what our instructor has communicated to me over the years without actually verbalizing it. It works. Rank is nice, but what’s nicer is what it really represents—the knowledge to back it up. Congrats on all your accumulated knowledge in such a “short time” Aesopian. I’m happy for you buddy. # 5 January 2007 at 11:07 pm
ZakS said: Sorry to be commenting on this topic nearly a year late but I just found this journal a week or two ago from sherdog.
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I have been thinking ALOT about this topic lately, game plan vs. no game plan. i think there are great benefits to both; no plan lets me see more options whether they work out or not, lets me see more, but i’m not sure if my technique is getting much better and I’m finding myself to have no stong part of my game.but if i roll with a game plan i feel like i am getting better at what i am already good at and mmy weak positions are still weak because i’m avoiding them, hopefully. I use to be particularly good on top and slow on bottom but now i think i’m middle of the road at both top and bottom. when i focus on my weaker positions i feel like my better game is not developing and is slipping away because i am not working it as much. or shuold i be okay with having a rounded game with not being much better in a certain position? # 14 December 2007 at 10:40 pm
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Tightening and Finishing the Triangle 15 November 2006 83 views One Comment This was originally part of a longer tutorial on the triangle from s-mount but I often find myself referring to the part on tightening and finishing the triangle, so I’m making a stand-alone version of it.
I have his head and arm trapped in the circle of my legs, which is the start of the triangle, but at this point I am only crossing my ankles. I could just close my triangle all the way right now, but that’s just because I have long legs. So for all of you short legged suckers, here’s how I would have you continue. I also use this sequence when trying to triangle guys with really broad shoulders. I use my grip on the elbow to cross the arm.
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Then I shove his arm all the way across with both hands.
With his arm across, I reach up with my right hand and grab my shin.
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DO NOT grab your foot or ankle on the outside. You can break your ankle and heelhook yourself by pulling out here. It will also give you less leverage to break their posture since your ankle bends and your shin does not.
With a grip on my shin, I open my legs and step on their hip with my right foot. I keep my right knee squeezed tight to their shoulder so they cannot pull their elbow out that side. This simple grip on the shin is what I consider the most important point to do to prevent them from posturing out to escape. As you work to close the triangle, never uncross your ankles without grabbing your shin first, and likewise, never let go of your shin without crossing your ankles (or closing your triangle) first. You need to pull down on your shin to keep constant pressure on them and break their posture.
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Now I reach inside their knee with my left hand. This is another point that I think everyone should do. You can use it to turn for a better finishing angle, you can use it to sweep them to a mounted triangle if they try to stack, and it prevents them from slamming you if they stand.
Pushing on the hip with your right foot and pulling your head to their knee with your left arm, turn yourself perpendicular to them. You’ll know you’ve got a good angle when you can look in their ear.
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Keep turning, stepping on the mat to help if you need to, until your calf is chopping on the back of his neck. You don’t want your leg on his back or shoulders at all if you can help it.
With a great angle on the neck, I close my triangle, throwing the bend of my right knee over my left ankle.
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To finish, I pull down on the head, thrust my hips up and away and stiffening my back (not pulling him into me and bending at the waist, which helps him stack—a detail I picked up from Dean Lister’s movie) and squeezing my knees. In my opinion, squeezing the knees is the most important detail to finishing the triangle that most people miss. Whenever I hear someone complain about how hard they have to fight to finish what seems to be a good triangle or say that the choke is a “slow one”, I ask them to show me how they do it and they usually pull down on the head and lift their hips really hard, but not squeeze their knees. Once I add that detail, it becomes a very fast choke. Added bonus! Here’s a little variation I’ve been doing that turns this into an triangle-armbar combo.
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When I go to underhook their leg…
...I make sure I reach over their arm, trapping it in my armpit.
Now when I lift my hips, they get to enjoy an armlock too. Yes, I’m aware that my triangle isn’t closed tight in many of these finishing photos. I didn’t feel like making Trog suffer any more than needed.
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Younghusband said: Ooooh! I like the bonus! # 14 December 2006 at 3:20 am
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Ryan Hall’s Triangle from Inverted Guard 11 December 2006 1,304 views 5 Comments In case the marketing hype hasn’t reached you yet, Ryan Hall is Lloyd Irving’s latest “experiment”, a purple belt that he’s got doing The Game Plan and running through a ton of tournament, like Fowler did. Ryan has done extremely well in competition, winning the majority of them by triangle (earning him the nickname “Ryangle”). He’s got a particular setup for it that’s especially interesting since it comes from him playing inverted (or “upside down”) guard. Neither I nor Trog take any credit for the move shown below. We are admittedly ripping off Ryan Hall on this one. That said, Trog has devoted a lot of time to breaking down how Ryan does this move, watching and paying close attention to his tournament footage, and he has very successfully incorporated it into his game. He’s caught me with this more times than I care to count, and I’ve seen him hit it on many others of every belt color. Having had so much success with it, Trog wanted to put together tutorial on what he figured out from watching Ryan so others could make sense of it too. So all credit goes to Ryan. You can set this move up from many different situations, but a common one is to spin to it when defending a guard pass. We also took photos of how to do this from under north-south, because it’s easier to show, but I feel that this is the more representative way of explaining it. Here’s Trog showing how he defends the guard pass by spinning to inverted guard and then to the triangle:
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I am trying to pass Trog’s guard with a basic stacking pass, pinning one knee to the mat while driving my shoulder into the other. He has a cross grip on my sleeve since he was likely going for cross guard.
Rather than resisting my effort to drive into him, Trog rolls to his left, swiveling on his shoulder.
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As he spins, Trog grabs my other sleeve, so he’s controlling both of my arms.
With control of both sleeve and having spun all the way to inverted guard, Trog steps on each biceps like he’s playing an upside down spider guard.
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Trog steps on the same biceps with both feet.
Then he kicks his right foot into the armpit. He also pulls my right hand out, stretching it away.
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He takes his left foot off the biceps as his right leg shoots deeper under the armpit, which he uses to press against me and spins clockwise.
As he completes his spin, he traps my head and arm in the circle of his legs.
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Note that he uses the momentum of the spin to cross my arm.
Grab the shin, step on the hip and triangle your legs to cinch up the choke. Finish like usual. I won’t blame you if this move seems highly unusual, because it is. But I’ve come prepared to show you that it’s entirely possible and very effective, having gathered up all the footage I could find of Ryan doing it in competition. Here’s it in action: Grapplers Quest (Oct 2006)
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You can see him spinning to inverted guard and then a triangle at 0:14. Ryan Hall vs Justin Rader
A little bit of inverted guard at 5:55, then a lot more at 6:15, including a good triangle attempt. Ryan at Arnolds
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The match starts with some inverted guard action and a close triangle. Ryan defends a guard pass at 2:25 by spinning upside down, shooting for a triangle and returning to guard. At 3:25, he goes inverted one more time before spinning to the triangle that ends the match. Ryan Hall vs Renato Tavares
He defends a guard pass at 0:24 by spinning to inverted guard. He goes inverted against at 0:47 and shoots for a triangle but Renato avoids it. Another spin to inverted guard at 3:53. At 5:05, he comes dangerously close to having his guard passed but spins to inverted guard at the last second. At 8:10 he goes to inverted guard one last time then quickly spins into a triangle, which he has all but cinched closed when the time runs out. Lastly, you can check out this cheesy promo piece for Lloyd’s programs that does offer insight into what Ryan is looking to do when he spins to inverted:
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I hope this breakdown of Ryan’s move gave you some ideas. If you have any questions, feel free to ask and I’ll run them by Trog.
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Sawosz said: Nice one. I think you can also transfer to cross guard from 6th photo if your opponent postures too much too get the triangle. # 11 December 2006 at 4:45 am
OldDog53 said: Yes, I will definitely NOT try to practice this one. :-) But thanks for digging this stuff out. Seeing it at least keeps me from thinking there are too many “written in stone” rules or strategies in bjj. Who is Lloyd Irvin though and what is the Game Plan? Ah, http://www.lloydirvin.com/adult/bjj/testimonials.html Now, what is the Grappler’s Blueprint? Never mind, I’ll just read their website and go from there. (Sounds potentially controversial, though….) I do wish his students would just say “Coach Irving” instead of “Master Irving.” Or “Teach’”. Or even sensei; I think “sensei” for example, is used by grade school kids in Japan for their school teacher so it doesn’t have the kind of “heaviness” to it that “Master” does.
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# 11 December 2006 at 12:25 pm
Trog said: This is a kind of step by step setup . However, this is a move i use more on the fly. I use a single sleeve grip the majority of the time, and as soon as I go inverted I’m already looking for the opening to stick leg through their armpit. As they posture they give you the momentum to spin all the way into the setup; the grip on the sleeve helps but you can do this no-gi as well. Your hips must stay loose the entire time so you can swivel in and out of this guard from your regular guard. If you stay stiff your not going to hit it often. So just keep that in mind if any one gives it a shot. “Stay loose” If you look at the first two pics, you can see where I actually hit the triangle. As they go to pass the guard I push on the shoulder and bring my right leg over the top turning inverted. When I do I’m looking for my left heal to hook on his right hip. Then I use that heal and the sleeve grip to swing right back into the triangle. I’m using the “backwards” triangle almost constantly from this transition. Everyone who first saw me trying to figure this move out doubted it, and since then I’m triangled almost all of them with it. Or at least got in the position to triangle them but couldn’t quite close because my triangle ins’t good enough. Still you will get the head and arm you need to set up the triangle, and i think it will help a lot of people in opening their guards, and building good hip movement for everything else. # 12 December 2006 at 8:32 am
OldDog53 said: I think someone might have been applying this or a variant to me last week, based on Trog’s additional comment preceding this note. My practice partner wasn’t pulling a regular guard during sparring, it appeared he was sweeping but then triangling me…when I was watching him earlier it looked like he was “break dancing” when he was doing the same thing with another partner. Needless to say I was tapping a lot that session, because I was posturing but still getting triangled, and stacking the triangle wasn’t helping as much as it usually does. Any defensive suggestions? This is a little difficult to defend becuase my first reaction when guard is thrown at me is to posture up….which makes the triangle easier, I guess. # 12 December 2006 at 12:01 pm
Trog said: Biggest problem I’ve had is one brown belt swims both his arms inside my legs and then lays heavy on me. It kills my controls and puts me into north-south, where I have to change what I’m doing. He is a very aggressive player and does this well. He always says “Just fucking smash through it” and it works for him. To kill it my coach throws his hips really hard into my legs, causing me to lose control for a second. Then he makes his move to whatever position is given to him.
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# 13 December 2006 at 9:03 am
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Cross Guard - Armdrag to Sweep and Bow-and-arrow Choke 14 November 2006 77 views No Comment This choke isn’t from the “cross guard” position where you’re already all to one side, but he considers it part of that game since it uses the same cross grip on the sleeve. This also shows the versitility of the game, since you can use the same grip to armdrag and take the back if they are fighting you going to the normal cross guard.
Cross grip the sleeve and figure-four your arms to break the (non-existant, in this photo) grip on your 09/06/2009 8:35
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lapel. Do a crunch to bring your head and chest up. This cocks you into place for the grip break.
Arch your back and stretch out as you bench his arm straight up, breaking his grip.
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In the same motion, pull his arm across as you sit up and hug his back.
Escape your hips slightly to the side so you are sitting on his knee.
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Opposite angle: You can see how your hips are turned to one side, you’re hugging over his back and you’ve still got his arm pulled across your body.
When they try to sit back and posture up, bring your hips higher, closing them so you’re around their waist, sitting up on the top of their leg. The arm that was grabbing the back reaches around their head and grabs their collar. This has all been like we showed in the first sweep, but here is where it splits off. Instead of reaching under the far leg like a pendulum sweep, Trog does this:
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Reach under your own body, grabbing the wrinkled fabric outside their near knee.
Now open your guard and swing your hips out and lift them with your legs like you’re doing a pendulum sweep.
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When they flip over, you’ve already got the grip on their near pant leg.
Cross your legs over his far arm to lock down his upper body. You can also switch to hugging on the near leg instead of just holding the pants.
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Like before, you can also switch to the single wing choke by passing your arm under his arm and behind his head.
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What Robson Moura Taught Leo 29 December 2006 379 views One Comment I had the pleasure of training at American Top Team in Hollywood, FL this past Christmas weekend. Leo Kirby and I met up to share techniques and take photos. A while back, Leo did a private lesson with Robson Moura. He’s long wanted to show me what he learned, and the members of the SBG forum were clamoring for it as well, so we thought we’d shoot a tutorial of it. I have taken Leo’s notes on the private lesson that he posted on the SBG forum after training with Robson and mixed in the pictures we took. A BJJ collage of sorts. The guard variation that Robson did is very interesting to me since it plays right into the overhooking butterfly game but adds another element of being able to also stretch them out and away to keep from being flattened out (as you’ll see). I know Leo is always happy to answer questions, so feel free to ask below. Everything below is by Leo… —John Davis and I did a 2 hour private with Robson Moura. Really can’t say enough about the guy. I have trained and rolled with black belts but I have never seen anyone that truly understands the concept of non-attribute BJJ like this guy. Of course he is maybe 5’6”, 145 lbs so he really has no choice. He says he plays a faster no-gi game, but with gi it is all technique. We worked his guard game. This is where I began to understand how a small guy can play open guard from bottom without using strength and power to keep from getting crushed. He started in butterfly but went to one hip, something I have seen. Luis does it and I know I saw John Frankle teach that on a seminar DVD, as well as many others. I have never really been good at it though. But what Robson did was sit to one side, then x-guard the leg on that side. Leg position
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X-guard on that thigh with the legs pushing out with some pressure. Stretching the hooks to keep them off if they drive in
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So he was on his side with an underhook or overhook, whatever they gave him. Underhook
Overhook and far collar grip
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Then it was what they did that determined what he did next. A couple of points here. I have been playing x-guard for 2 years, trained with Marcelo twice, two private lessons with him, all of his DVD’s, as well as Kesting’s x-guard stuff. But it was never this easy. The thing I have heard over and over is: how do you set up x-guard? I have always waited for them to post or stand then go for the underhook on the leg, x-guard the other one. Or lift them from butterfly or butterfly half guard, then underhook the leg. The way Robson plays you can underhook the leg but you don’t need to. When they work to free the leg, post a hand, put a hand on your knee or grab the pant leg you sweep them a number of ways or take their back. He attacks the collar, but from that position normally they try to get an underhook so he takes the overhook. He will grab either collar from there. If the near collar, he uses the other side gi skirt and has several combos from there. Overhook and near collar grip
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He then went into gi control from this position with the lapel or by pulling the skirt out and wrapping it over their shoulder or back. Untucking and passing the far lapel over the back
Wrapping lapel across the back
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Wrapped lapel is gripped by overhooking hand
He had combinations for an overhook and switching the grip a number of ways, then sweeping or finishing with a choke. If you try to move back he just scoots with you because he has a hand posted and tries to keep contact. If you stand he can switch to the regular X guard or get both hooks in for a normal butterfly then switches to the x guard again that I described above. It was pretty amazing that while you are on your side, his thigh in the x-guard position controlled by both your hooks, you have plenty of time to play with his gi because if he tries to stop you you just lift him with the hooks and sweep him. We rolled with him for quite a while. His game is incredible—slow, and very technical. He is great at gi chokes and gets them just as you think you are passing his guard. All in all the best two hours I have ever spent in Martial Arts. I love
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training with Marcleo, but when you roll with him you know you have been in a fight. And after training with him I started working the fast game that he is so good at and that at 45, I am not sure I can play for more than a few minutes at a time. After the class with Robson, John and I started rolling/drilling on our own and it just made me want to get proper position, slow down, and see what he gave me. (1 votes, average: 1.00 out of 5)
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cretegolf said: Great article, It’s topical for me, I just recently had a private lesson from Robson Moura while in Scottsdale, Arizona @ Gustavo Dantas’ School (Robson was there right after his Pan-Am win & right before his Grapplers Quest win!!). Unfortunately, I didn’t bring my gi, which I now wish I did, but he showed me a bit of his x/butterfly guard, and some options from there. Even without the gi, it was very technical. There are many options from that position (he showed a cool sweep-taking the back from there) He also showed me a cool armbar sequence that’s in Nova Unaio’s Personal Jiu-Jitsu Magazine. Again, very simple, but very technical and effective. I was shocked that he wasn’t invited to ADCC, he would’ve cleaned up. Chris Fradelos(BJJ Addict-Toronto) # 24 May 2007 at 9:16 am
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Cross Guard - Pendulum Sweep 14 November 2006 68 views No Comment This is how Trog uses his cross guard game to setup the pendulum sweep.
You’ve setup the cross guard: cross grip on the sleeve, underhooking the knee, guard open, hips turned out. Trog says that he likes to play cross guard with his right knee pressing against the body, under their arm, like this. He uses his knee and shin to push them away and control their weight and posture.
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Use you left leg and right knee to push them back and to the right, so they resist and push back.
To fight getting swept, they drive in and try to crush your bent leg.
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Grab their elbow with your right hand.
Kick your right leg through and swing it out, turning your hips clockwise, as you begin the pendulum sweep.
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Use your left leg in their armpit to roll them and lift their knee to continue the sweep.
Keep ahold of the leg until you come into mount.
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Drop a couple elbows to the face.
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Triangle Troubleshooting - Doing It “Backwards” 5 December 2006 248 views 2 Comments Lately, Trog and I have been dealing with people defending the triangle by wrapping their arm around the hips and waiting for the omoplata. One wrestler in particular had been negating our triangles with this, and his defense to the omoplata was so good that switching to it wasn’t really an option. We were working on solutions when Trog came up with a great one. He said he’d been watching a ADCC highlight reel and saw one of the competitors run into the exact same situation, and easily handle it using a “backwards” triangle, i.e. locking the legs the wrong way. He uses the position to get their arm out, and actually finishes the match with a reverse armbar from it. You can see it this great video, between 1:12 to 1:45:
I think this is a great solution, and was also impressed that Trog spotted it in the video, so I asked him if I could share it on my site and he was happy to show it.
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You’ve trapped their head and arm in the circle of your legs for a triangle. But before you could cross their arm, they hugged under your hips. While it is sometimes possible to finish a triangle without crossing the arm, you can feel that they’re locking down your hips to prevent this. With their arm hugging your hips, you could switch to an omoplata, but you feel that they’re prepared for this and have already reached inside their thigh or joined hands to defend. Pay close attention to the next steps. They involve minor adjustments that are hard to see but they are important.
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Push their head to the left with both hands. You need to expose the side of their neck, and shoving their head to the side does this.
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Bring your right thigh against their exposed neck.
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With your right thigh snug against their neck, grab the back of their head and push it down into your stomach/hips. You are now exposing the back of their neck.
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Bring your left foot up and grab it, pulling it to the back of their neck.
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Figure-four your legs to lock the triangle. You’ve now got a triangle on the “wrong” side, but thanks to the adjustments made while securing it, you can actually make good use of it.
You can try using it to finish the choke by hugging your knees and squeezing your thighs together (think Thigh Master). This can put on the same pressure as a normal triangle, with your thigh against one side of their neck and their own shoulder in the other side. To be honest though, I’ve never had much success finishing anyone this way. It is a horrible position to be in and they’ll suffer, but they’ll survive. Instead of going for the finish, we’ll move on, using the backwards triangle for the control it offers.
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You’re going to use it to pry their arm out and cross it so you can get a normal triangle.
Dig your left hand under their arm and gable grip your hands together.
Bridge your hips up and start pulling their arm out. Slide your forearm down towards their wrist as you pull to gain better leverage as you go. With the triangle locked backwards, you’ve got a better angle to pull the arm out, and lifting your hips applies pressure that makes it easier to open them up.
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Keep pulling and shaking their arm out until you’ve freed it.
Bring their arm on to your shoulder.
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Trap their wrist at the bend of your neck, like you’re holding a phone with no hands. You can grab their elbow and manually turn it to make sure it’s facing outwards.
Cross your arms so the crook of your elbow is over their elbow. Apply the submission by hugging their arm to you as you expand your chest and arch your back and neck towards. The strength of this move should come from your core, not just squeezing really hard with your arms (though that does help).
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To escape, they have to bend their arm and bring it to the other side of your head. That’s fine since they just crossed their own arm for the normal triangle. Make sure to shove their arm all the way across so they can’t bring it back to the other side and hug your hips again.
Grab your right shin and open your legs.
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Step on their hip with your left foot to swivel your hips. Pull your right calf across the back of their neck.
Close a normal triangle and finish like usual.
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Dochter said: Nice series. I’ve done this a time or two mainly out of opprotunity but it is nice to see it laid out.
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# 6 December 2006 at 4:57 pm
timbaland said: Baret Yoshida also had a counter to people hooking their arm across the leg. He would take both of his hands and locks them across the knee that goes across your opponents neck. He then uses his arms along with his legs to pull his knees together and raises his hips. I’ve tried this and was able to get it to work. # 11 December 2006 at 7:38 pm
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Cross Guard Submissions 14 November 2006 78 views No Comment When you’re in the initial position to get these two submissions, the important point is that you first try hard for the sweeps. When it fails, it is because the opponent has postured or dropped their weight to the other side. If they posture, you get the triangle. If they drop their weight to the other side, you get the omoplata. First the triangle.
You’re in going for the first sweep and their left arm is out of your guard. They are resisting by posturing.
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Pass your right leg to the other side of their head.
Grab your right shin with your left hand and pull down to break their posture. Cross their trapped arm. Step on their hip with your left foot to turn your hips and keep your knee squeezed against their shoulder so they can’t pull their arm out.
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Lock the triangle.
Reach inside the knee with your right hand and pull yourself to it to turn yourself far a strong finishing angle. Now the omoplata.
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You’re entering cross guard with all your grips in place. This time, instead of passing your right leg to the other side of their body, you’re just pressing you knee in against them.
You are pushing into them with your left leg and they push back. At the same time, shove their arm back so their arm is wrapping your thigh as you chop your calf into their armpit.
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Keep chopping down with your leg, driving their shoulder down as you spin out.
Triangle your legs around their arm to secure the position.
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Take your arm out from under their leg and grab their belt. Keep holding their wrist down by your hip so they don’t uncross it and escape.
Untriangle your legs and drive your left leg flat to the ground to force the shoulder down as you use the other to scoot your hips away and turn slightly on your left side. The grip on the belt keeps them from rolling out and escaping. Finish like normal.
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Cross Guard - Second Sweep 14 November 2006 54 views No Comment This next sweep has to be used in combination with the first one. You go hard for the first sweep, and if they defend then they are susceptible to the this, and vice versa. This isn’t a sweep you will easily get from a static position. You have to switch back and forth back and forth, depending on which side their weight is on.
You’re going for the first cross guard sweep, but they’re countering by driving their weight forward and hugging your leg.
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Shoot your hips high in the air like your going for the first sweep. If they don’t fall its because their base is heavy in the other direction.
Switch your grip to their left elbow.
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Shoot your hips with as much force as possible in the opposite direction now.
They fall to their left. It’s hard to show this motion with photos, but you shouldn’t land here. You should land on their chest, or even better, all the way over on their far side.
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Keep riding up over them to land on their far side.
Turn towards them and come to your knees to establish a top position of some sort. Trog says he doesn’t use this sweep as much any more since it usually ends in a scramble. You’ll usually land sitting on their chest, so a good wrestler will knock you back down to your guard as they get up. Even if the sweep does work, you usually have to scramble to stay on top since there isn’t as much control and a firm place to finish.
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Cross Guard - Countering Knee-Through Pass 14 November 2006 88 views No Comment This next sweep is how Trog counters people trying to drive their knees though his cross guard. You can also get the same sweep when people do this to your De la Riva guard. You’ll notice that this is almost the same sweep as above, only applied to a different situation.
We join the action with Trog already in cross guard. His opponent has stood and is trying to drive his knee though his guard to pin his leg and defend submissions.
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From here you can see how he’s gripping the pants. If you got here from De la Riva, you’d be grabbing the back of the ankle.
When he feels they are really trying to drive their knee though to the ground on the other side of his knee, he turns his hips and brings his legs to that side.
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Here’s where we try to slow time so you can understand the hip movement. He straightens his whole body, shooting his legs and and tries to launch his hips up and over to the left.
Action shot of his hips shooting up and his opponent fall over.
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Shooting his hips up and over to the side collapses their base.
He stretches their leg out with his grip on the pants, and he keeps a grip on their sleeve. Continue to side control as shown earlier. This sweep looks and feels counter-intuitive. How am I sweeping him to that side if he’s driving his knee in so hard? That’s the problem I have with this sweep. It just doesn’t feel like it shoulder work. Strangely, the only reason you can sweep him like this is because he is putting so much weight on that knee. When he does so, he commits himself all to that side, and that’s what makes you able to knock him over. If he’s not really driving his knee that heavily or his weight is on the other leg, you won’t get this sweep. Trog said he rolls with a guy who will purposely try to get you to do this sweep, since he knows how to
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pull out when you shoot your hips, and you’ll just fly past him and he’ll take your back. So only go for this when you feel they are really committing themselves to driving the knee to the ground over your leg. Trog also said it took trying this (and the last sweep, which is similar) “a million times” and failing it before he started getting it. Now he’s sweeping Eduardo with it. It just took time to get down the timing, how you work with their weight, how you launch your hips up at different angles and the details on the grips.
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Cross Guard - A Second Introduction 14 November 2006 78 views One Comment This sweep is one of the moves we reshoot since Trog didn’t feel the motion of it was accurately captured. But rather than let the photos go to waste, I felt I would include them so you could see the sweep done with a slightly different entry and grips.
From closed guard, cross grip the sleeve with your right hand.
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Reach under the knee with your left hand.
Open your guard and step on the ground with your right foot to turn your hips clockwise. Keep your left leg somewhat tight to the body: you will need it to create resisting pressure.
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Swing your right leg out…
...and pass it to the other side of their head. Keep your hips very loose by lifting them and rolling your shoulders, so you can spin on your back.
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With your legs, pressure them back and to the right, so they defend by pushing their weight back.
When they push back, shoot your hips up against their right shoulder. You need to get up on your shoulders and launch your hips like you want to shoot back and to the left.
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As your hips shoot up into their shoulder, they’ll fall back to their right.
After sweeping them back, you will be sitting on their arm with it between your legs. Turn towards their legs and reach for their far side with your left arm. Keep the grip on their sleeve until you secure the cross body position.
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Post your left hand by their far side.
Turn towards their legs and post your right hand by their near side.
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Turn all the way and come to your knees, establishing side control.
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Leo Kirby said: I’ve been working on this every week since you posted it. It is really becoming a big part of my game. Last night I figured out a couple of problems while rolling. The first problem is actually getting in postion. The guy on top will try not to let your other leg out. I found if I start by gripping the outside pant leg, pulling my self around and putting the near side leg up by his arm pit and pushing out I can switch to the underhook on the leg. The key was to pull myself around, not try to pull his leg to me. When I went for the underhook a couple of guys really sprawled that leg back, but that didn’t stop it. I still got the underhook and pulled myself tight to their leg. At the same time I started working to get the other leg over his head. He was trying to defend the underhook and not let the leg out at the same time, eventually I was able to get the leg over his head. I got a couple of omaplata submissions, and a couple of nice sweeps. Once I am in postion I feel real comfortable with the game. # 6 December 2006 at 7:44 am
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Cross Guard - An Introduction 14 November 2006 164 views 2 Comments A while back, I shot a series of tutorials on a guard game that my training partner Trog has been playing. He does cross guard in the same style as Pe de Pano and Tinguinha, and he knows that others are interested in it so he wanted to show how he had developed his game. Trog was happy to share it freely, but his main concern was that he wouldn’t be able to show the dynamics of the game in static photos. The way you need to have loose hips and swing them freely, how you get your opponent rocking back and forth and play with his weight on posture, how you suddenly launch your hips in different direction—these are hard enough to teach in person, so they are even harder to show in pictures. When I first put together these tutorials, Trog didn’t want me to put them out unless he felt they adequately expressed these points. He said he’d rather just trash it than put out a bad instructional, since he doesn’t want people getting messed up for trying clunky Internet Jiu-Jitsu. And it just so turns out that Trog wasn’t happy with the first run of photos we took, and so this wasn’t going to be put up. But after showing it to a couple people in private, I found that if someone really wanted to get this game, they would still be able to learn a lot from this, especially if they took the time to go over it in detail and get a feel for it first. Heartened to hear this, Trog retook some of it and added more details to make up for what he felt was lacking in the first set. I also found footage of it being taught and used in competition, so the motion of the sweeps can be show in real time too. What I find really interesting is how he developed his cross guard game without the aid of instructionals. Only recently has he been watching Tinguinha’s and Pe de Pano’s instructionals on it, but what you’ll learn here came mostly from his own experimentation with the basic he learned from Eduardo, our instructor. If you’ve seen those videos, you’ll see how Trog has a slightly different style and does some of the positions and grips differently. Basic Grips, Positioning and Sweep There are several ways to grip and to get to cross guard, but he is the safest way that Trog does.
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With his right hand, he cross grips their sleeve. You can use a claw grip, but Trog uses a pistol grip since it is less stressful on his fingers. He grabs their leg with his left hand. Here he is grabbing the fabric of the pants, but you can also underhook the leg (as we’ll do later). Trog said he started gripping the pants after watching Pe de Pano use it in competition, since you can keep the grip when they stand, which isn’t easy with the underhook. He still underhooks the leg a lot, but he’s started using this grip more for standing guys (and for me, since I get him with my reverse omoplata passes, where I take the crucifix instead of passing his guard). Next, how he gets to the official cross guard position. He uses a few other positions before going to it, which allow him to get there securely.
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When he first opens his guard, he brings his knee across their chest. They’ll often drive into you when you open like this so having the knee there helps him control the space
He’ll drive his knee into the chest and stretch his body out to force their weight back. He’s creating space to start bringing his leg over their head.
With them shoved back, he’ll bring his foot up and step on their biceps and shoulder to create even more space. He said to expect them to grab your pants if you do this for more than a second.
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With all that space opened up, he can throw his leg over to the other side of their head and start playing cross guard proper. Now we’ll show how he plays with their weight and posture, and how it sets up one of the main sweeps.
He’ll press down on their head with his right leg and try to make them fall to the right. They’ll naturally resist and drive back to the left. This kind of pressure, putting weight on their head and trying to make them lean different directions and resist is a fundamental part of this game.
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When the resist being pushed over and come back into you, shoot your hips up and to the left, like you want to nail their shoulder with your butt.
Continuing the motion. His hips are still making hard contact with the shoulder as he comes up. The grip on the sleeve is extremely important so they don’t pull their arm out. This hip movement is the part that Trog has the hardest time showing in photos since it has to be done quickly and when their weight is moving to the left. You won’t get this sweep from a static position. You’ve got to have good timing and be able to launch your hips up well.
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As they fall and he comes up, he pulls their leg out and lifts it by the pants. This breaks their base and prevents them from fighting to stay on their knees.
Just another shot so you can see how he controls the sleeve and the pants as he comes up to sitting. The grip on the sleeve is still extremely important so they don’t pull out, and the grip on the pants helps prevent them from turning to their knees.
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Maintaining all his grips, he scoots his butt so he’s sitting on their arm as he turns towards their legs. You’ll be familiar with how to finish this sweep if you do a lot of omoplata sweeps, since they end in the same position.
He keeps turning until he can put the arm that was gripping the knee on the far side of their body, like he’s going for reverse scarf hold. With their upper body now locked down, he can release their sleeve and start doing side control however he feels like.
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Leo Kirby said: This is changing my guard game. I have been working on it for the last 3 weeks and decided to roll with it live on Thursday. I got 3 of the rolling sweeps an omaplata and a bicep pincher when they tried to pull the arm out of the grip. Tell Trog thanks a lot and thanks to you for posting this. # 20 November 2006 at 12:26 pm
meatgrinder said: In your first sequence of pictures…as you get to the side, I feel like the objective is to get your chest onto the back of his shoulder (one of the steps in marcelo’s armdrags). If he stops you from taking the back (by using his right hand to grip your left elbow and weighing into your shoulder), push his left hand across his face/neck and pass your sleeve grip to your right hand before coming back for the pendulum sweep…Having his arm across his neck gives much more leverage to rotate his shoulders as you sweep into mount. Even if he (with other potential attacks like returning to a triangle). At worst, you return to guard with your arm behind his head and his arm across his neck…total control of his posture; take your pick of attacks. # 22 June 2007 at 9:09 am
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Raspado’s Half Guard Top 14 November 2006 54 views One Comment Raspado, a purple belt at my school, was whining about how I get to goof off all day and put together BJJ tutorials. So I said I’d make one with him. We are covering what I consider to be a very strong part of his game (having been caught by everything he shows below). This is his guard opening, passing to half guard and maintaining position, and attacking with the ezequiel choke and americana in combination. First, we’ll start with opening the guard.
Raspado is in closed guard with good posture. His back is straight and his head is up; his arms are straight and he’s holding both lapels.
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He steps up with his right leg.
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Then with his left, coming all the way to his feet.
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He reaches back and grabs the knee with his left hand.
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He pushes down on the knee to open the guard and drive the leg to the mat.
As he pushes their leg down, he drives his knee through and drops it to the far side, trapping their thigh under his shin.
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Alternate angle: His rear knee is off the ground and he’s driving forward with it.
As he drives forward, he lays his weight on their chest and he reaches behind their head.
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Alternate angle: You can see how he is still pinning their thigh under his shin.
Here’s where Raspado has a dirty little secret. He should circle his rear foot out and pass all the way to side control. But he doesn’t. Instead, he releases their leg from under his shin and lets them take half guard.
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He drives his right hand under their arm for the underhook. This locks down their upper body and prevents them from taking his back.
To further secure the position, he drives his chest even higher and punches his underhook even higher. While securing his upper body, Raspado is also working on the lower in order to control their legs and hips.
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Here you see their legs in a mostly neutral position, just as Raspado is put into half guard.
He brings his left heel under their calf and lifts the leg.
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He then threads his left foot through and hooks his right ankle, and his right foot hooks their ankle. Doing this makes his top position very secure and kills the bottom man’s hip movement. For those of you paying attention, you’ll notice that he just did lockdown from the top. I find that very interesting. Here’s an example. The bottom man is going to bridge and try to throw Raspado off, once with lockdown and once without.
Without the lockdown, the bottom man’s bridge bumps Raspado’s really high and makes sweeping much easier.
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With the lockdown, the same bridge doesn’t have anywhere near the same effect. Raspado’s weight it locked to their hips, taking all the strength out of their bridge.
If they do try to bridge and roll him to his left, Raspado will post with his right foot (crossing over top of their leg) and on his left elbow. Now for the submissions, starting with the ezequiel choke.
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Once he feels secure, he’ll take out his right overhook and bring his arm up by their neck. He reaches behind the neck with his left and grabs inside his right sleeve.
Then he drives his closed right fist into their throat, aiming for their jugular. He doesn’t go all the way across the neck like in a normal ezekiel choke.
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And lastly, he brings his head down to close the space. Now for the americana off the ezequiel.
As Raspado goes to drive his fist into their throat for the choke, they bring their hand in to defend their neck.
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He grabs their wrist with his right hand and pushes it down to the mat.
As he pushes it down, he reaches behind their head and grabs their wrist with his left hand.
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His goal is to hold their wrist with the arm that’s behind their head.
Once he has grabbed the wrist, he reaches under and locks the figure-four, as if to do the americana. He can’t finish the submission yet since his arm is still behind their head.
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They will usually try to defend by pulling their arm to their chest.
As he feels them doing this, he slides his arm over the top of their head.
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And brings his elbow to the correct side.
It doesn’t take much to finish from here. Everything is already very tight. He just pulls their arm down a little more and lifts their elbow.
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If you’re going for this move and they try to escape by straightening their arm…
...he releases their arm and grab the back of their collar again.
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And drives his fist into their throat, like in the ezequiel. Drop your head to close up the space too.
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Raspado said: I am ugly. # 15 November 2006 at 12:15 pm
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The Marceloplata 14 November 2006 220 views No Comment This last bit is a new addition to my game. I learned it from Leo at the Marcelo seminar and saw Marcelo use it several times in sparring. It starts with the same knee drive that we use to go to s-mount, but it attacks them in an entirely different way and unique way. Again, this is a two parter. The second half of this addresses a common problem with many omoplata setups, where your bottom leg gets trapped under them and you can’t turn out for it. This is how Marcelo handles that. Let’s get started and you’ll see what I mean.
I have a vanilla mount on Trog. He has his arms in fairly good posture.
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I slide my left hand under his right forearm. This is easy to do since no one thinks to defend it. They are waiting for something more obviously like pushing their forearm down for an americana or trying to cross their arm for an armbar.
I drive my arm through until my elbow touches the mat.
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Then with one solid slide forward, I drive my left knee up under their arm. At the same time, I bring my left arm back and pinch my elbow to my ribs and grabbing their shoulder, trapping their arm.
Keeping their arm securely trapped, I step up with my left leg.
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Alternate angle. You can see how I am pinning their arm in place with my mine. I am also pressuring in with me knee to turn them on their side somewhat. The key is that I get their arm deeply wrapped around my hip at this point.
I throw my leg over like I want to put it across their face as I fall back to my right, letting them come to their knees.
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But as they come up, they pin my bottom leg and prevent me from turning out for the omoplata.
To being my re-counter to this, I make sure my left foot is on their face.
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I straighten my leg and drive my foot across their face as I roll belly down. This creates terrible pressure on the shoulder.
So they will roll out to escape the submission.
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Keep spinning faster than they roll, and keep your foot across their face as they roll to their back. Come up into an armbar-like position and make sure their arm is still wrapped around your hips. Keep spinning clockwiseto create a really tight shoulder lock.
But let’s say you’re not able to spin fast enough to get that submission, and they are able to come back up to their knees.
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You’ve just got the omoplata again, only now your bottom leg is no longer trapped and you’re free to finish like normal. Surprise bonus! I have crossbred my Garcia and Bravo material and started doing another move with this setup.
I get the Marcelo mount as shown above. This time I am also pushing down on their chest with my free hand to turn them more.
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I throw my left leg over their head and get my shin across the throat.
Instead of falling back for the omoplata, I reach behind their head and grab my own foot.
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I finish by falling back to mount with a gogoplata. Wow. I’m awesome.
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S-mount Re-counter: Omoplata 14 November 2006 61 views No Comment Continuing the re-counter game, this time I opt for the omoplata. Yes, an omoplata. From mount. That’s only the beginning of this awesomeness. The setup for this move was inspired by Jean Jacques Machado, who shows a variation in one of his books. Just as with my triangle from s-mount tutorial, the second half of this one is really just on how to finish an omoplata. I just threw it in as a bonus since I know people have trouble with it, and this way has worked well for me.
Once again, we find me going for an armbar from s-mount.
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And once again, Trog jerks his elbow down to the mat, escaping the armbar. As soon as he does this, I grab his far wrist with my left hand.
I shove his arm to my right, making his arm wrap around my thigh.
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I step over their head like I’m doing an armbar that isn’t there.
Then I fall backwards, letting them turn belly down and come to their knees.
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I triangle my legs around their arm and still have my grip on their knee. My left hand keeps pushing their arm down to my hip so they can’t uncross it and escape the omoplata.
I quickly take my arm out from under their leg…
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...and hug behind both of their legs. This is what Eddie calls the jiu-claw. It’s a no-gi grip for controlling them from the omoplata before you can sit up and grab their back.
I untriangle my legs and chop down on their arm really hard with my right leg. I want to stiffen my leg and try to force my hamstring and heel down to the mat. As I do this chopping, my left leg shrimps on the mat to move my hips away. This chopping and shrimping will drag them out and force their shoulder to the mat.
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Once their shoulder touches the mat, I sit up and hug their back. I keep shoving their arm down to my hip until I can bring my stomach and ribs over it and trap it. Make sure you do this really well, so you can let go of it and still have their wrist trapped. This is a little detail that a lot of people miss and leads to a lot of omoplatas being escaped.
With their wrist trapped by my torso and hips, my left arm is free to pull my legs and arrange them in the proper way to finish.
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I bend my right leg until my foot touches my knee, and I fold my left leg back, with my toes point straight back.
I raise my hips while pressing down on their arm with my right thigh and keeping weight on their hips and back. I lean like I want to go diagonally forward and to the right, across their shoulders. And about now, they should tap. To be honest, you really can just go for this omoplata without them escaping an armbar, but I thought presenting it this way would let me slip it by all of you that I actually give up mount to take a submission that a lot of people find really hard to finish and usually just results in a sweep. That said, here’s how to force them into the omoplata if they don’t want to come to their knees.
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I am pushing their arm around my thigh like before.
And like before, I step all the way over with my other leg, only this time I triangle my legs too. To prevent them from pulling out the back, I need to sit on their upper arm really tightly and pin it between my calf and thigh. This is also a common position after many omoplata sweeps, so you can apply this move then as well if you want to just go back to trying to finish the omoplata as a submission. Which I sometimes do.
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I put my head on the mat as I reach through with my right arm and do a shoulder roll towards his legs.
I keep rolling though, forcing his shoulder up and prompting him to try to get to his knees.
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When they post on the mat with their far arm to try to get up, I’ll usually hook under it with my right hand.
From here, I’ve basically got a crucifix where one of the arms is trapped by an omoplata. What I do from here is best left for another day (and I took it all from Nino Schembri’s omoplata video).
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