3-4 Session Trim Defects.doc

Trims 

Trims must be compatible with base fabric and where appropriate match with the shade of the base fabric

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Trims must conform to standards specified by Buyer with respect to colour, quantity, quality, safety and utility

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All trims including draw strings, piping, buttons, zippers must be checked for colour fastness and shrinkage prior to production

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Trimmings should have the ability to be attached in a secure manner to the body fabric

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Trims must be safe with respect to toxicity, colorants, coatings etc

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Trims must not cause irritation or hurt the customer after adorning the garment

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Dyes used on trims must not be carcinogenic

Fusing/Interlinings 

Interlinings must be compatible with base fabric weight and fibber composition

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Interlinings must conform to standards specified by buyer

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The colour must be compatible with the base fabric especially as the fusible could show through or influence base fabric shade

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Fusible should be selected based on type of construction(woven, non-woven, knitted), the resin and the process to be used(pressure and temperature applied)

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Fusible after fusing must withstand laundering, cleaning and abrasion

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Fusible which causes a strike back(penetration of adhesive to other surfaces in the interlining) and strike through(penetration of adhesive to the outer fabric surface) `will be rejected

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Interlinings must be positioned to provide support and shape where required

Linings 

Colour fastness and performance of lining to be compatible with base fabric

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Linings must conform to standards specified by buyer

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Where wadded linings are used polyester weight and density

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Dye should not be carcinogenic

wadding is required of specified

Accessories 

All accessories(hangers, tags, card boards, poly bags, pins, clips) must be, colour fast, and conform to other standards prescribed by buyer

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Accessories must not damage/distort the garment directly or indirectly

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Accessories must be uniform within a lot

Elastic 

Must have the specified width , sufficient strength and elasticity for garment comfort

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Elastics must maintain the properties throughout the life of the garment with due allowances for wash and care

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It must be free of additives that can adversely affect the base fabric, lining or trimmings and must be odour free

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Elastic shrinkage must be specified

Bindings 

Must be appropriate and compatible for base fabric

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Must be colour fast, have the specified strength and width, and the proper finish

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Must not cause puckers or twisting after attaching

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Must not have joints along the length

Labels 

Must be colour fast and have a sound construction

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The words/logos/instructions/pictures must be clearly printed/embroidered on the label

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Labels instructions must be clearly understood by the supplier and only then manufactured

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Labels should have the right margin for attaching/insertion

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Labels should have no loose fibres or uneven edges

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Whenever loop labels are used the label should be inserted appropriately with the allowance on the label pushed fully into the seam and not showing outside

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Whenever labels have to be secured on four sides the stitch lines have to be even and label shape undistorted

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Raw edges must be concealed within seams and labels positioned at a consistent distance from a referral point e.g. Main label positioned centrally at 3 cm below the neckband

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Threads attaching the labels must be neatly trimmed

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The embroidered/printed matter on the label must not be concealed

Drawstrings/Cords 

Cords once knotted should not open up

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End toggles should not open up, should be colour fast, lead and toxic free and should not distort on laundering

Pocketing 

Pocketing colour must be appropriate for body fabric, unless specified and must conform to standards specified by buyer

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Pocketing fabric must be able to withstand very high stress and also be colour fast

Buttons 

Must be dyed to match unless specified

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Must be colour fast

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Must be compatible with body fabric when secured

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Must be non toxic

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Buttons should not have sharp edges

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Material should not chip off when subjected to laundering, ironing or other forces

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Buttons should not melt when subjected to high temperatures

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Buttons should not be affected by solvents

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The holes should be symmetrical with respect to its centre

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Metal buttons should have rust proof finish

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Buttons must retain its properties throughout the life of the garment

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Buttons must be able to withstand scratches

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The buttons are spaced correctly for their size and for the location of their use

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The buttons are reinforced according to the dictates of the fabric and location

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The buttons are sewn on securely

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The buttonholes are the correct type for the garment design and fabric

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The buttons and buttonholes are correctly aligned

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The buttons should be securely attached with no fraying or loose threads

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The buttonholes fit the buttons without gaping open or allowing the buttons to come through too easily

Rivets & Studs 

These must be rust proof, colour fast and have a good finish

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The sizes must be as specified

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Compatible washers should be supplied along with the rivets and studs

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If there is an embossing or print it should be able to withstand the die force applied

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Fasteners are the correct size for the closure requirement

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Fasteners are attached securely, whether mechanically or by hand

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Concealed application of fasteners are inconspicuous

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Fasteners used in visible applications are suitable for the apparel design and fabric

Zippers 

Zippers should conform to the specified length and width

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Zippers should be rust proof

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It should have a good quality stopper/slider and teeth

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It should have auto lock mechanism

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The zip slider must be free from obstruction when functioning and not catch base fabric in its movement

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It should be colour fast and not wear out on frequent use

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It should be compatible with base fabric

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It should posses the ability to allow stitch formation and securable to the base fabric

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The top of the zip should have a top stop where necessary as the slider can come off

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The zipper teeth should have even edges to allow free movement of the slider

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The zipper teeth and tape materials are suitable for the apparel design and fabric

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The zipper length is adequate for ease in wearing or using the item

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The method of attachment is appropriate to the garment design

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All visible stitching is neatly done

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The zipper is securely inserted into the garment (Zippers in trousers should come upto the waistband, in dresses should come upto the fabric)

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Zipper teeth are concealed adequately by lapped applications

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Lapped applications are evenly done

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Zipper should be attached neatly with the correct stitch margin taken and without puckering

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During construction sufficient clearance should be given to allow smooth operation and to minimize likelihood of slider catching base fabric or lining

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On open ended zips bar tacking or securing to base is required

Threads 

Thread selected must be appropriate for the fabric in size, composition, strength and shrinkage characteristics.

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Manufacturers should discuss thread selection with suppliers and equipment technicians whenever necessary.

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Thread colour must match the base fabric (unless otherwise specified) and be colour fast.

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Overlocking thread should match the base fabric where practicable.

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Bartack and other threads should match the base fabric where practicable.

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Thread properties should be maintained during storage.

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Sewing thread affects the strength of the finished garment, the quality of seams sewn and the effectiveness with which equipment can be used; hence correct selection is essential.

Embroidery

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Embroidery threads must be consistent with the performance characteristics of the base fabric

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Embroidery threads must match the base fabric and remain colour fast

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Direct embroidery motifs must have the backing of soft tissue or interlining removed(if present) prior to delivery

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Embroidery must be correctly positioned and aligned. Embroidery threads must be securely tied off and clipped. Embroidery must appear flat without pucker or distortion.

Accessory Application and Detailing Pockets Inseam pockets 

The lining should not extend past the hem or facing of the garment

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Openings angular or on bias to be reinforced to prevent stretching. Twill or seam tape to be used for this purpose

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Seams should lie flat without pulling or puckering edges have been finished as the fabric and location demand

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Lining fabric, if used for the pocket bag, is durable, appropriate, and has the same care requirements as the fabric (dyeing, shrinkage and fabric structure)

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The body of the pocket has been anchored where possible to maintain position and prevent sagging

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The edges of the pocket opening are the same size, with no puckering or pulling on either side

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Pocket lining is recessed enough so as to not show during movement or while sitting

Slashed pockets 

Openings, flaps, and welts have been interfaced where necessary for body and shape maintenance

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Flaps, when present, are the same length as the welts and lie flat

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Fashion fabric if applied to the pocket lining should be directly beneath the pocket opening when buttonholes or narrow single welts are used, to prevent the lining from showing when the pocket is being used

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Fabric triangles formed at the ends of the slashed openings are secured with bartacks or several small stitches to prevent holes from developing when the pocket is being used

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Paired pockets are identical in length and width and are equidistant from the garment edge

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Pockets lie flat without pulling, twisting or puckering

Applied pockets 

Pockets were cut on grain and any fabric designs were matched. If a biased cut was used, pockets were not stretched and have been properly stabilized with a lining

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The corners are free of any raw edges or any lining fabric visible

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Curves, if present are smooth and sides are symmetrical

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Paired pockets are the same height, size and shape

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The location on the turning point of lined pockets is not visible from the right side

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Linings do not roll to the right side at the edges of the pocket, but remain out of sight

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If used, top stitching is an equal distance from the edges at all points

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An appropriate stitch length has been used, and all loose thread ends have been removed

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Pockets and flaps lie flat without puckering, twisting sagging or rolling

Standards for evaluating waistline facings 

The facing is cut so that it’s grainline matches the garment grainlines

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The facing lies flat and smooth against the garment

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No seam wells are evident at any point on the facing

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The raw edges of the facing are finished appropriately

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Belt loops or thread carriers, if present, are securely attached, evenly spaced, and identical in size and construction

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At any opening(s) in the garment, the facing is neat, flat and concealed