2019-03-01 Global Traveler.pdf

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A WORLD OF WONDERS

UNESCO’s World Heritage list aims to protect and promote outstanding natural and cultural sites. p. 48

March 2019

BELFAST p. 70 HARTFORD p. 62 LISBON p.72 MOAB DESERT p. 76 MONTEVIDEO p. 68 MUSCAT p.56 PARIS p. 66 TAHITI p. 80

letter from the editor ®

EDITORIAL

INSIGHT AND AWE I’M ALWAYS INSPIRED and intrigued each month as I read our various articles, but I was particularly taken by this month’s feature on UNESCO World Heritage sites. Admittedly, I’ve seen several in my travels and always knew to appreciate the experience and what the UNESCO designation meant. Beyond that, though, I never knew what it took for a site to receive the acknowledgment, how the landmarks LOOKING FORWARD: were selected, how many there are, Kimberly Krol at the oneworld event what the criteria are and so on. I read PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL with voracity Karin Leperi’s report, on page 48, and I think you will, too. It started me on a trip down memory lane, recalling my favorites of the UNESCO World Heritage sites I’ve been fortunate enough to see. I spent New Year’s Day sailing through Austria’s Wachau Cultural Landscape before arriving in Budapest and strolling the banks of the Danube. I’ve marveled at the wonders of the Acropolis in Athens and the archaeological site of Delphi in Greece. In Israel I was captivated by the Bahá’i Holy Places in Haifa and explored my heritage with my father in the historic center of Warsaw. Sukhothai, Thailand, fascinated, and who wouldn’t stand in awe at the rock sites of Cappadocia, Turkey? Here at home there’s the Statue of Liberty and Yellowstone National Park. That is only a handful; my list of sites yet to see still remains long. What’s left on your bucket list? Tell me at [email protected], or share with me on Instagram @kimk928. Just a couple of weeks ago I overnighted at a hotel steps from another: the Tower of London. One of my favorite cities, I crossed several UNESCO sites off my list as a college student studying abroad in the U.K. capital. While my recent visit was short and didn’t include any of the city’s more famous institutions, it was a worthwhile visit to help the oneworld alliance celebrate its 20th anniversary! There are exciting times ahead for the alliance, and you can catch a glimpse of its fun, uplifting new branding in this month’s picture. For more on the alliance’s future, turn to page 20 for an exclusive interview with CEO Rob Gurney. What else awaits? Join the party on page 34 as we recap our 15th annual GT Tested Reader Survey awards, then jet off to Auckland; Muscat; Hartford, Connecticut; Paris; Montevideo; Belfast; Lisbon; the Moab desert; and Tahiti. Next month we unveil our third annual Green Issue and take a look at animal conservation efforts around the globe. Bon voyage!

Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL [email protected] Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK [email protected] Senior Editor JANICE HECHT [email protected] Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS [email protected] Associate Editor ANGELIQUE PLATAS [email protected] Assistant Editor ERICH J. MARTIN [email protected] News Editor ALLIE MOORE [email protected] Editor at Large HOLLY RIDDLE [email protected]

ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN [email protected] Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK [email protected] Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN

COLUMNISTS

WRITERS

KRISTY ALPERT MARGARET BACKENHEIMER J.D. BROWN MARK CHESNUT EUNICE FRIED MARY B. GALLAGHER JACK GUY ALLIE MOORE

KRISTY ALPERT TERRI COLBY DEBRA BOKUR MARLENE GOLDMAN JACK GUY SHARON KING HOGE KARIN LEPERI KATIE MCELVEEN

ete bios, For compl usa.com altraveler visit glob

CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD, TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE

comOman’s of n o ti a bin in and mounta cales beach lo in the e u q ni is u ast. E le d Mid about e or m n Lear page 56. Muscat on

ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN, Director of Technology BOB HANCOCK, Director of Digital Advancement JARED TORGAN GENERAL COUNSEL THOMAS F. GOLDMAN

KIMBERLY KROL, EDITOR IN CHIEF

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letter from the publisher ® ®

EVERYDAY DIPLOMACY WHAT AN HONOR TO HAVE Terry Waite as our guest of honor at the 15th GT Tested Reader Survey awards! This was the third time Terry joined us: initially, when we launched Global Traveler at the first GT Tested Reader Survey awards at the Hudson Theater in Manhattan, again at the 10th anniversary at The Peninsula Beverly Hills ballroom and this past Dec. 12 at The Peninsula’s rooftop venue. A great CAMARADERIE: Fran shares a laugh with Terry Waite at the GT Tested Reader Survey humanitarian, Terry helps us all reflect on awards. what is important in the world: diplomacy PHOTO: © NICOLAS BATES and peace. Is there any better way to be part of peace and diplomacy than to travel and meet people of other countries? It’s astonishing when individuals are quick to judge other countries and their peoples without ever traveling there. A friend recently referred to “the people of the world” — even if we have differences or disagreements with governments, people everywhere usually share the same desires and hopes as we do: simply the opportunity to be happy, safe and to raise families with respect. Terry reminded us war is never the answer, a profound statement we need to contemplate. We must deal with the differences and evils of the world, but the results of war are often far more consequential and devastating. Think of the young people affected by the actions of war, the displacement and misery it causes. As travelers we often live in a bubble of opulence, but by going to other countries — sometimes those our neighbors deem dangerous or far away — we invite a better understanding of who we really are. In a way, we all contribute to making the world a better place through travel. This issue salutes those who help us get there and do it in a way that helps us continue our diplomatic travel efforts. Now is the time to step up your travels and to vote for the best in business and luxury travel. The 2019 GT Tested Reader Survey voting ballot appears in this issue and at globaltravelerusa.com. The silent auction is also live for the Leukemia & Lymphoma Society’s annual Red & White Ball. Please log on to redwhiteballphilly.org to link to the auction site. Kimberly Krol, editor in chief, is the auction chair; she and many at GT worked tirelessly to collect travel-related donations from our clients. When you donate to the auction, keep in mind this disease can hit anyone: you, a family member or an associate. The recent death of Constance Lacroes, a dear client and friend from Meliá Hotels & Resorts, reminded me of the devastation this disease causes. Connie lost her battle with leukemia Jan. 10 and will be greatly missed. She was a loving person and always helpful; losing her reminded me we still have a long way to go in curing all forms of blood cancers. Please travel, contribute, be a diplomat of the world and remember those who need your assistance.

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Turkey SABA SAROL CORZO tel 90 532 311 6704 or 1 310 562 2580 [email protected]

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March 2019 48

PHOTOS: © NICOLAS BATES, © SORIN COLAC - DREAMSTIME.COM, © WAUPEE - DREAMSTIME.COM

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FEATURES

BUSINESS DESTINATIONS

34 Fifteen and Fabulous Global Traveler celebrates the 2018 GT Tested Reader Survey award winners.

56 Destination One: Muscat Muscat flourishes in the prosperous and peaceful Sultanate of Oman.

48 A World of Wonders UNESCO’s World Heritage list aims to protect and promote outstanding natural and cultural sites.

62 Stateside: Hartford Hartford reinvents as it builds an innovations ecosystem.

52 Center Stage Auckland prepares for a leading role in the global business events market.

66 9–5: Paris Add a bit of flair to meetings with clients in Paris. 68 After 5: Montevideo Transition from work to play with Montevideo’s after-hours activities.

ON THE COVER globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99

A WORLD OF WONDERS

March 2019

BELFAST p. 70 HARTFORD p. 62 LISBON p.72 MOAB DESERT p. 76 MONTEVIDEO p. 68 MUSCAT p.56 PARIS p. 66 TAHITI p. 80

UNESCO’s World Heritage list aims to protect and promote outstanding natural and cultural sites. p. 48

COVER PHOTO: TERRACOTTA WARRIORS — A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE IN XIAN, CHINA PHOTO: © AVSTRALIAVASIN - DREAMSTIME.COM

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

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FRONT END DISCOUNTS As a member of Turkish Airlines Corporate Club, you will receive exclusive front end discounts on fares for to/beyond Turkey travel. There’s also the option to earn free tickets if you meet an annual flight quota and the opportunity to earn upgrades. BAGGAGE ALLOWANCE Ease worries about fitting all the necessities for your business trip as a Turkish Airlines Corporate Club member. Enjoy an enhanced baggage allowance on international flights. FLEXIBILITY As all corporate travelers know, changes happen. As a member, you will have the flexibility to change flight routes and dates for

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March 2019

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LIFESTYLE

CONNECTIONS

LEISURE DESTINATIONS

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70 Neighborhoods: Belfast The Cathedral Quarter’s historic streets come alive with local culture.

Technology Wine & Spirits Wealth Tours Spas Chefs Cruising LGBTQ+ Health

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Mail Call News Reviews One on One Chicago O’Hare International Airport One on One oneworld One on One Dream Hollywood Airport Update Preview

MARCH 2019

72 Friends & Family: Lisbon Lisbon lures visitors with unexpected treasures and modern-day pleasures. 76 Bucket List: Moab Desert Arches National Park and the Moab desert rest at the heart of Utah’s wild beauty. 80 Kicking Back: Tahiti Pause for a luxurious break in the Tahitian Islands.

FX E X P R E S S

P U B L I C AT I O N S , I N C .

Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions. The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material. AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 © 2019 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

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mail call Q&A WITH JANICE HECHT, SENIOR EDITOR

Q&A WITH STEPHANIE MAKOWSKI, ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

In our January 2019 issue and first publication of the new year, Jan Hecht, senior editor, mentioned the importance of optical care in daily life and while traveling. Discussing a personal experience on a trip brought up the questions: Do you take special precautions to protect your eyes when traveling? Have you experienced eye problems while traveling? I have incredibly sensitive eyes and make sure I always have drops and sunglasses with me. I have a backup pair in my car, purse and several around the house to make it easier for me to just grab and go.

March is our GT Tested Reader Survey awards recap. I’m interested in knowing what our readers value most when voting for a brand. Between customer service, product and convenience, which do you find is most important when choosing your favorite? Email us: [email protected]

items (many travel-centric) to bid on. This inspired a few readers to write in.

JESSICA REED, via email

JONATHAN B. MCFARLAND, via email

LETTER TO THE PUBLISHER In the January 2019 issue, publisher and CEO Francis X Gallagher discussed his month of planned business trips along with the upcoming Leukemia & Lymphoma Society’s Red & White Ball. The event is hosted in Philadelphia, and Global Traveler’s editor in chief co-chairs the ball’s silent auction, offering a long list of

I’ve been a long-standing supporter of LLS and will keep my eye out for the link to bid. ANGELA NEWMAN, via email Supporting organizations like the Red Cross and Leukemia & Lymphoma Society is a great way to give back. Keep up the good work! WILLIAM T., via email

TSA WORKERS MAINTAIN AIR SECURITY In our Jan. 9 eFlyer USA newsletter, we discussed the government shutdown and how TSA employees worked to maintain security despite no pay and low morale. A few readers wrote in with thoughts. TSA workers receiving no pay: Truly deplorable! All this is a political ploy from outrageous politicians. TSA workers are

there to ensure national security. They need to be paid. Creating bad morale and causing vital TSA people to leave their jobs to find a way to pay their bills puts our nation in dire security danger. The ones who need to find new jobs are the politicians. Both sides act worse than a 3-year-old in temper tantrums.      PAT LENHART, Los Angeles, California

CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: [email protected] or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler. We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

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PHOTOS: © NICKOLAS BATES, © SUSAN SHELDON - DREAMSTIME.COM

Optical health is so important but so easily overlooked. We definitely take our vision for granted when we’re young.

mail call

Knowing TSA agents and staff are losing steam and morale every day they don’t get paid is truly concerning. I didn’t have any trouble myself flying through Newark to Los Angeles during the shutdown — no delays or outrageous lines — but the concern for maintaining security measures was still there. RICHARD MESKIN, via email Traveling over the New Year, just after the government shut down, I was able to go through TSA, no problem. I visited some national parks, which I was lucky were still open but quickly closed just after I left. Traveling through TSA again on my way home, I found the staff a bit more impatient than when I left, but who could blame them? Had I planned my trip any later, I might have rescheduled. REAGAN MARLEY, via email It’s such a shame so many government workers were completely sidelined by the shutdown. We need to work on supporting vital employees providing us with security and not forget about them during budget talks. TINA WELLS, via email

CATCHING MORE THAN FLIGHTS In our Jan. 23 eFlyer USA newsletter, we discussed a recent study detailing the 12 most common diseases caught while traveling and how to prevent catching them. The article inspired a few readers to write in with recent experiences. I just returned from Thailand with a

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nasty case of strep throat. No fun. Not sure if I got it in Chiang Mai or Bangkok, and unsure how I got it.

9–5 | CAPE TOWN

TOM LINHARD, via email I caught some sort of bug while traveling to London last year. I was sick for the first two days of the trip and, luckily, felt better before a few work meetings. I can only assume I caught something at the airport or on the flight over, but taking Advil Cold and Sinus seemed to help. In hindsight, I should have taken something before the flight to help boost my immune system. COLIN CHAPMAN, via email I never get sick while I travel (knock on wood), but I was unfortunate enough to have a bad reaction to some food on vacation over the holidays. I think it had to be a mix of spices I wasn’t used to because my wife tried my dish and was fine. I was better by the next afternoon, but I don’t know how I could have foreseen getting sick, enough to prevent it. BILL PRESTON, via email I take vitamin C tablets during my flights and try to stay hydrated while I travel. It seems to work well. While keeping up with sleep can sometimes be tricky, especially on trips with long flights, it’s definitely directly connected to how well I feel the next day. JENNIFER ROBINSON, via email

Captivating Cape Town This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world. You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers

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passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet. Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle. Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25). The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million. Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center. Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you ap proach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background. Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300. While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques

globaltravelerusa.com JANUARY 2018

CONNECT WITH GT GT is more than just a magazine. If you

have a computer or smartphone, you can connect with GT.

GT APP Available for iPhone and iPad, the GT app lets you search archives, read the current issue, bookmark favorites and more. Download the app today from the App Store.

globaltravelerusa.com Visit our website to access past and present articles, reports, guides, hot travel links and deals and video interviews, as well as forms for subscribing to the magazine and our eFlyer newsletters.

WHAT’S HAPPENING ON GT BLOGS? Updated daily, our blogs offer readers an inside look at the lives and travels of the GT staff. Last month we featured blogs about everything from visiting Montréal to urban skating in New York.

globaltravelerusa.com/blog

PARTICIPATE IN VOTING Visit our website to vote for your favorites in the 2019 GT Tested Reader Survey.

globaltravelerusa.com/ gt-tested-awards-ballot

news State of WiFi Provider Gogo

While the demand for in-flight WiFi peaks, the future of WiFi provider Gogo is uncertain as it attempts to make it as a standalone company catering to multiple airlines. Since going public in 2013, Gogo has yet to post a profitable quarter. Although Delta Air Lines adopted the provider with open arms, American Airlines recently removed the service from 550 planes and has chosen other providers for in-flight connectivity, such as Viasat. Gogo remains the provider in 140 of American’s aircraft, but the removal from the majority of planes resulted in a big hit for the company. Despite this move from American, Gogo’s revenue from all North American airlines increased by 18 percent within the last year, and the number of passengers who used the service in flight increased from 7.5 percent to 14 percent. When incorporating the figures from American Airlines, however, revenue decreased by 1 percent. gogoair.com

NEW AMERICAN AIRLINES ROUTES

This year, American Airlines will introduce 18 new regional routes, including connections to the new destination of Glacier Park International Airport in Kalispell, Montana. Flights from Dallas/Fort Worth International, Los Angeles International and Chicago’s O’Hare International airports will service Glacier Park. Other new domestic routes include flights from American’s DFW hub to Augusta, Georgia (AGS); Burbank, California (BUR); and Gainesville, Florida (GNV); as well as a few flights south to Durango, Mexico (DGO), and Tegucigalpa, Honduras (TGU). Across the border to the north, American will serve Halifax Stanfield International Airport in Nova Scotia, Canada, from origin airports in Philadelphia (PHL) and New York (LGA). Starting this summer, American Airlines will expand its service from Dallas/Fort Worth to the European cities of Paris (CDG) and Madrid (MAD). Other future international routes include service from Philadelphia to Berlin (TXL), Bologna (BLQ) and Dubrovnik (DBV).

PHOTOS: © AMERICAN AIRLINES, © COLICARANICA - DREAMSTIME.COM

aa.com

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The Most Environmentally Friendly Airlines

As some of the planet’s major contributors to carbon emissions, airlines continue to test ways to reduce these emissions and leave a smaller carbon footprint on the world. A recent report from German environmental group atmosfair ranks the world’s airlines in terms of eco-friendly initiatives. Each airline in the report received a rating based on its aircraft (the Boeing 787-9 and the Airbus 350-900 require less fuel, for example), the type of engine and winglets, seat and freight capacity, and total occupancy. England’s TUI Airways came out on top with a rating of 79.3, followed by LATAM Airlines and China West Air. Smaller airlines were more likely to top the list due to their consistently maximum capacities and their biennial aircraft replacement. Discount airlines were not included in the report, as their low prices make it more likely for them to fill seats and thus possess an unfair advantage. atmosfair.de

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news SANTARENA HOTEL

BELLEVIEW INN

Delta Updates Boarding Policy

Boarding airplanes using designated zones has become the norm among major airlines, but Delta Air Lines’ recent change to its boarding policy will eliminate zone boarding. Instead, passengers will board based on their ticket type, noted on their color-coded boarding passes. As of Jan. 23, Delta passengers with Delta One suite tickets for international flights as well as Delta SkyMiles Diamond Medallion members board first, followed by first-class or premium select passengers, then Comfort Plus passengers, then frequent flyers with Delta SkyMiles platinum or gold status, followed by three groups of Main Cabin passengers: 1, 2 or 3. Group 1 includes Delta’s silver members and some members who have Delta credit cards. delta.com

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The new year brings a slew of hotel openings across the country and across the border. From incredible design to boutique brands, here are some of the top properties opening this year. Advertised as a “surfside resort,” the Asbury Ocean Club is a combination boutique hotel and residential building. Located on New Jersey’s coast, the 17-story, 54-room hotel features terraces with expansive ocean views, an outdoor pool located adjacent to the beach, and an immaculate interior with wooden accents. Constructed in the late 19th century, Florida’s Belleview Inn served as a country club and a lodge for celebrities of the Gilded Age. Now the property re-opens as a 35-room hotel with easy access to a communal pool and Florida’s first golf course. Santarena Hotel — “where life comes to Life” — is located in Las Catalinas, Costa Rica. The spaces offer style and luxury but with an essence of accessibility and comfort, including a beachfront pool, rooftop lounge and easy access to the beach of Playa Danta. Opening next month, Nobu Hotel Los Cabos in Cabo San Lucas touts “laidback luxury” with 97 rooms, 103 suites and Japanese fusion cuisine at the world-famous Nobu Restaurant.

United Airlines Releases Cookbook

If you’ve ever craved the mouthwatering and flavorful food you’ve tasted at 30,000 feet, you’re in luck: United Airlines is set to release a cookbook with recipes based on the menu offered in its Polaris class. Executive chefs who work with United conceptualized more than 40 recipes such as coconut soup, served on board with sambal oelek chicken. When you purchase the United Polaris Cookbook on United’s online shop for $29.99, a portion of the proceeds will be donated to The Trotter Project, a nonprofit offering culinary education for aspiring chefs. united.com

Questionable Future of First Class

Airlines have considered reducing or completely eliminating first-class seats for a few reasons, not the least of which are financial. First-class seats can cost up to $300,000 to install, but tickets are typically only about $1,000 per hour when they’re not booked using miles or points. At such a low price point, airlines almost never make a profit on these seats. The competition from business-class seats — which can include fully outfitted suites with lie-flat beds, privacy doors and on-demand dining — makes it even less sensible to maintain first class if business travelers can upgrade to a better option.

PHOTOS: © SANTARENA HOTEL, © BELLEVIEW INN, © UNITED

BELLEVIEW INN

New Hotel Openings in 2019

deals & rewards

Royal Air Maroc Joins Oneworld

By 2020 Royal Air Maroc will be fully integrated into the oneworld alliance of airlines, further expanding the alliance’s presence on the African continent. With its entry into the alliance, Royal Air Maroc will also add 34 new destinations to 21 new countries, not just in Africa. Royal Air Maroc will be the first new member to join oneworld in four years and will bring the total number of airlines to 14, a number that includes American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair and Qantas. royalairmaroc.com oneworld.com

Banks Encumber Rewards Redemption

PHOTOS: © SCHULZHATTINGEN - DREAMSTIME.COM, © EXHALE SPA

Hyatt Adds Spas to Loyalty Program

Hyatt’s recently acquired spa company Exhale is now a part of its loyalty program, World of Hyatt. As of October 2018, World of Hyatt members can earn and redeem points at any of Exhale’s 20 spa locations in the United States and the Caribbean. The facilities offer spa treatments, fitness classes, massages and even an on-site nail salon. This collaboration marks one of the first between a hotel rewards program and a wellness company, allowing hotel rewards members to earn and redeem points outside of the hotel industry. The acquisition of Exhale in August 2017 complements Hyatt’s other wellness companies such as FIND and Miraval Group, the latter a wellness and resort spa company Hyatt also added to the World of Hyatt rewards program. world.hyatt.com

Credit cards with stellar travel rewards programs have become staples in many a frequent traveler’s wallet, but the impact of the cards on banks has not been as rewarding. As members rack up points quickly and pay off their balances just as quickly, banks are left with few benefits and find themselves essentially paying for members’ free flights and hotels earned with their points. Once members earn and redeem their points on their cards with high annual fees, they may stop using the card and eventually let it expire. Banks anticipate annual revenue of 14 percent from credit cards but without the high interest rates or late fees they used to expect with irresponsible spenders, as smarter travelers find a way to work the system and earn the maximum number of points without having to overspend. In response, banks like Chase have begun to remove some of their perks, such as price protection, sign-on bonuses, certain insurances or the ability to combine features from different rewards programs.

American Airlines’ Economy Web Specials

American Airlines’ new Economy Web Specials allow rewards members to book flights for as little as 5,000 miles for a one-way ticket, a threshold that used to be 7,500 miles. This new special is applicable only to six routes to start, all less than 500 miles: Dallas/Fort Worth (DFW) to Wichita (ICT), Corpus Christi (CRP), Brownsville South Padre Island (BRO) and McAllen (MFE); Phoenix (PHX) to Long Beach (LGB); and Charlotte (CLT) to Orlando Melbourne (MLB). As of Jan. 8, customers can view these specials by clicking the Economy Web Specials heading on the awards chart on AA’s website. Flights cannot be changed at any time after booking. aa.com

exhalespa.com

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GT tested

CORINTHIA HOTEL LONDON Reviewed by Francis X. Gallagher

Arrival/Check-In: We arrived in Southampton, crossing the Atlantic on board the Queen Mary 2. As Cunard does not pre-arrange car pick-ups prior to departure, I decided to book my reservation with LimoPlus per a recent article I read on globaltravelerusa.com. The trip from Southampton to London was quick and easy with our driver, Kumaran, taking back ways when needed. When we arrived at the Corinthia London, we were welcomed like we were coming home — this was my third visit since the property opened in 2011. As we had a lot of bags from the crossing, full of casual and elegant attire, staff took our bags and swiftly escorted us to our suite, one of the property’s London Suites.

Services/Amenities: The entertainment and dining at the Corinthia are a must. We enjoyed drinks and dinner at Kerridge’s Bar & Grill where the place was hopping, the staff was there to please, and

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TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Did I tell you about my butlers? They helped with a charger converter, using the hotel car (a lovely Jag) and other great services — you just text them. Giulia was helpful!

the menu was as unique as the building itself. I had the venison from the restaurant’s rotisserie, and I understand all the dishes were equally tasty. The sommelier and I selected a Chablis to go with our starters, and it was perfect. Pauline and Denis Banks, whom we met on a previous cruise, were our guests, and we had an enjoyable time. Another night we retired to the Bassoon bar for crafted cocktails and shared a yummy cheese and meat platter accompanied by crispy bread. Other lovely things to do include the spa and a proper British tea where you can speak to the on-site Futurists in Residence regarding your questions and thoughts about future trends.

◆ Corinthia London may be one of the best-kept secrets, with a location across the river from the London Eye and walkable to everything. CORINTHIA HOTEL LONDON Whitehall Place Westminster, London SW1A 2BD United Kingdom tel 44 20 7930 8181 corinthia.com

PHOTOS: © CORINTHIA HOTEL LONDON

Guest Quarters: The room was lovely and the building painstakingly restored. It was formerly part of the War Department, housing Winston Churchill’s office (at least when he was not in the underground bunker — worth a tour if you are near 10 Downing Street). Prior to the Crown’s ownership, the property was the Hotel Metropol. The suite was bright with clean, white walls and trim. We entered through a large door into a hallway. Immediately to the left, a powder room featured an exquisite built-in door that matched the façade of the wall. Down the hallway our path branched left and right (notice the art all over the suite). To the left, an expansive living room held an open-sided bookcase that divided the room from a full dining room. Perusing the books, I noticed they were entertaining coffee table types. This is where I housed my command center with my laptop, briefcase and chargers; my only complaint was the distance from the electrical outlets to the dining table, which meant my cables stretched across the passage all the time. To the right, another hallway led to a massive bathroom with twin sinks, a shower and tub. The shower, once I got used to the operation of the nozzles and faucets, was superb, with lots of water pressure and various spraying options. The bedroom was equally large with a comfortable king-sized bed and lots of pillows and comforters. The dressing room seemed to be right out of a design book, with plenty of room for everything and creative shelving for luggage. A vanity with a mirror separated the his and hers sections, and the generous space made it easy to prepare for a night on the town.

GT tested

HONG KONG AIRLINES | BUSINESS CLASS

Hong Kong (HKG) to Los Angeles (LAX)

Reviewed by Carly Allen

PHOTOS: © HONG KONG AIRLINES

On the Ground: Hong Kong Airlines’ recent entry into the United States allowed a great new innovator into this space, and I have to say this fresh and modern airline made quite an impression. After a week of meetings throughout Asia, I headed home from Hong Kong on a Sunday morning. HKG is always busy, and the Hong Kong Airlines check-in was to the right and a bit confusing for me to find at first. I was checked in within a few minutes at the business-class counter and received a VIP passenger pass, enabling me to use a VIP line through security, easily cutting my time by 20 minutes. I had about an hour before boarding, so I was able to experience the Hong Kong Airlines lounge. The lounge, on the second level, sports an open-air ambience, so it wasn’t too loud. Despite the bustle of passengers, there was plenty of seating at couches and large tables for families, but my favorite was casual tables against the windows facing the taxiway with warm sunshine spilling in. The buffet-style cuisine included dim sum, juices and a made-to-order omelet bar. Pre-Flight: The Airbus A350 business class features a 1-2-1 herringbone configuration, giving everyone lots of space — especially the window seat. I arrived at seat 15A, where the crew greeted me with a choice of water or lemon tea. I went with the slightly sweet lemon tea. Hot towels, newspapers and menus were promptly offered. We took off shortly, and I settled in to enjoy this new aircraft.

In-Flight: As we reached cruising altitude, I began to scope out my seat. The 180-degree lie-flat seat featured a warm red fabric, a decent width and lots of extra storage for my personal items. The technology was also a great surprise, starting with a large screen with excellent quality. I was interested to see a new handheld remote for the entertainment system that looked and ran like an iPhone, which made choosing movies or shows much easier compared to the old gamerlooking consoles or reaching over your seat. Decent entertainment choices included new Hollywood releases. As our flight attendants began to take our orders, the menu really caught my eye — the unique design featured cute, cartoon drawings and figures on all the pages, lightening a normally boring piece of paper. The items on the menu were also diverse and, more importantly, tasted delicious. My favorite dishes were the foie gras starters, seafood stir-fry main course and the chocolate pancakes for breakfast. I am not the best flyer, as I hardly sleep on planes, so a 14-hour flight can seem endless. However, the beyond-friendly cabin crew made my trip easy and fun. It started mid-flight (I was the only one up, watching a movie), and they surprised me with a cup of tea and a warm doughnut (yes, a warm doughnut). On my first flight the crew also realized I wasn’t sleeping and offered to chat in the galley if I got bored and brought me tea and chocolate. I am not sure how they knew sweets were the way to my heart, but they did.

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TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Menu options offered traditional dishes like dim sum and modern perks like chocolate pancakes! ◆ Onboard technology was convenient and of great quality. I enjoyed the wide selection of new movies and easy, iPhonelike controls. ◆ The onboard crew went above and beyond to make the flight enjoyable and memorable. HONG KONG AIRLINES hongkongairlines.com

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one on one

JAMIE RHEE Commissioner, Chicago Department of Aviation ernment is an amazing space to consider. Every day I impact people’s lives. You gain a world of experience working in government.   AS A TRAVELER  Favorite travel memory or story: I was backpacking in Europe with my sister, on the train from Amsterdam to Paris. I went to the bathroom, where I ended up locked in for 2.5 hours. My sister had fallen asleep, and when I returned to the seat, she was chatting with another passenger about the person trapped in the bathroom. I told her it was me!  One travel tip you cannot live without: Pack light. I think I’ve finally perfected it. Best advice for business travelers: Look at your surroundings; give airports feedback. We want to hear from you, as there’s nothing like a fresh set of eyes.

YOUR BUSINESS  What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? Enhanced technology is the future; there’s already improvement with the use of biometrics and facial recognition. Next up is reimagining airport space in anticipation of the new technology. How can we use the space smarter and build for the future with such rapid technology changes?  Best career advice you’ve received: Twenty-five years ago, when I started out in government, someone gave me the advice, “No sudden moves.” You gain invaluable perspectives from reaching out to others. You evolve into the right space when you let people weigh in.   What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? The gov-

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Chicago O’Hare recently won its 15th consecutive GT Tested Reader Survey award as Best Airport in North America. What makes ORD the best? It’s the employees! They have a passion and love for the airport with a focus on customer service. The message is we care; this is our home. Update our readers on the progress of O’Hare’s modernization project. Several separate projects are underway, and we continue to move our modernization programs forward at both of Chicago’s airports by involving the talents of local residents and firms. One of my favorite aspects is the way we incorporate Chicago’s communities in everything we do. We’ve launched incentives to help bring small minority-, women- and veteranowned businesses into the mix, and to also inspire more local youth to consider futures in aviation. We are the first airport in North America to open a Changing Places facility for travelers with disabilities, and we’ve just launched a task force dedicated to making the airport more accessible for travelers with disabilities. We are excited about many key projects on the horizon, including our final runway extension to be complete in 2020/2021. The terminal expansion — the biggest in the airport’s history — is gearing up for construction. The City of Chicago recently launched a global search for architect teams to design the centerpiece of our expansion, the new O’Hare Global Terminal, along with two new satellite concourses. Later this year we expect to break ground on an extension of Terminal 5 at O’Hare, set to deliver nine new gates to support Chicago’s leading global connectivity. Our passengers have a lot to look forward to, with added space making way for new amenities, concessions, increased travel options and many other improvements to elevate the traveler experience from curb to gate.

PHOTO: © CHICAGO DEPARTMENT OF AVIATION

Name: Jamie Rhee Title: Commissioner  Company, city: Chicago Department of Aviation; Chicago, Illinois  Number of employees: 1,400  Recent project: O’Hare International Airport is always on the move, with new services, new amenities and projects opening to serve our customers. Most recently, we opened a Multi Modal Facility, centralizing all our rental car operations for the first time, and expanded economy parking capacity. We also just opened a centralized deicing pad for use by all our carriers, which will enhance operational efficiency, improve gate capacity and further reduce delays during Chicago’s winter operations. First job: I’ve come full circle; it was providing foreign language assistance at ORD. I also served as general counsel here 2004–2008.  Little-known fact about you: I grew up on a farm in a small town with only one stoplight!

ABOUT YOUR BRAND  Air New Zealand recently launched the first-ever flight between New Zealand and Chicago O’Hare. Tell us about other new routes. For the first time we’re offering a bid incentive that includes help for airlines in marketing new flights. In 2018 we announced or launched 17 new destinations, including Avianca to Bogotá, TAP Air Portugal to Lisbon and LOT Polish Airlines to Budapest. Flights to Addis Ababa on Ethiopian Airlines also launched, and we’re one of only six airports in the world with direct, non-stop service to all major inhabited regions. We hope these trends continue!

Beyond Asia. To the Future. F lying with You. ASIANA AIRLINES

Reservations • 1-800-2ASIANA • flyasiana.com

one on one | CEO SERIES

ROB GURNEY CEO, oneworld GLOBAL PARTNERS:

Rob Gurney (front left, holding sign) at the oneworld 20thanniversary press event with CEOs and other executives from member airlines PHOTO: © ONEWORLD

AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: While at a café in Italy, I noticed a missing-dog poster. Later, while walking, I noticed a dehydrated dog lying under a bush. It was the dog from the poster. I gave him some water and carried him back to the café, where he was reunited with his owners.   One travel tip you cannot live without: Steam your shirts in the bathroom. It’s useful with today’s baggage restrictions.   Best advice for business travelers: Just take carry-on. It’s convenient, you can move more quickly, and it’s better for the environment. And fly with a oneworld carrier! 

Name: Rob Gurney Title: CEO Company, city: oneworld; New York, New York  Number of employees: The central oneworld team numbers around 30, but oneworld member airlines collectively employ 400,000. Recent project: I don’t think of things as projects but as a stream of initiatives to make the customer experience better. In that vein, we’re updating technology, growing revenue by making it easier to do business with us and reimagining our brand. First job: Unpaid, I ran errands for my grandfather; he owned multiple businesses, from jewelry to betting shops. In the travel industry, I started as a management trainee with Qantas.   Little-known fact about you: I’m a long-time surfer. It’s not as easy to surf in NYC as it has been in some of my other postings.   YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? Capabilities rapidly enabled by technology are the driving force of the future, from serving customers to aircraft technology. In order to exploit the full potential, we need to make a more effective, efficient use of space and infrastructure. Developments are underway, but we have to use technology without compromising safety and security.   Best career advice you’ve received: I’ve received no shortage of advice, but one piece that stuck with me is never to think any experience or knowledge is wasted. Even lateral career moves can be massively useful in building a broader skillset and understanding.   What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? This isn’t an industry for everybody; it’s a field with a much broader purpose. That should be part of your ethos in order to succeed.  

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ABOUT YOUR BRAND In celebration of oneworld’s 20th anniversary, the alliance plans to roll out branded lounges. Tell us more. Airport co-location and branded lounges are focused projects with longer lead times. We want to create a great customer experience, so we are looking for our airlines to move together at airports where it makes sense and where opportunities allow. We are committed to this idea, and we’ve identified several airports to look at closely. We’re welladvanced in the process, but it is still a work in progress. What was the inspiration behind oneworld’s new brand positioning as it turns 20? It’s hard to relaunch a well-recognized brand. Our new slogan, “Travel Bright,” has a few connotations; we’re becoming a more human brand and telling our story in a more compelling, modern way. Our focus groups largely comprised our target business travelers flying on more than one airline to make sure we deliver products and services of use to them. Tell us about the digital initiatives behind oneworld’s milestone. We are investing in technology to deliver the promise of seamless travel on alliance carriers digitally. Each member airline’s app and website will offer the opportunity first to check in for a connecting flight on a oneworld partner airline, with more services and facilities to come later. This will also offer a better infrastructure for disruption management. We want to be able to do things in a more agile way. Share a fact you want our readers to know as oneworld turns 20. Our member airlines tell us, “We may not be the biggest alliance, but we have the most fun.” The special chemistry of the oneworld alliance was on display during a meeting with our first and new oneworld connect partner, Fiji Airways. When one observes the chemistry in the room among all the partners, it’s something you want to be part of.

Enjoy more places. And how you get there. oneworld® member airlines connect you to more than 1,000 destinations in 150 countries. Exploring the world has never been easier. If you’re planning to visit three, four, five or more continents in a single trip, booking a oneworld Explorer fare is the simpler way to travel around the world. Select routes, plan stopovers, and book your itinerary by searching global travel options that fit your needs. Learn how you can travel bright at oneworld.com.

one on one

AYO AKINSETE Managing Director/Vice President of Operations, Dream Hollywood

almost anywhere you stand you see the Tyrrhenian Sea. And I must mention the incredible food and Aperol spritzes. One travel tip you cannot live without: Email the hotel directly for any needs; email the general manager if you can get the information. Typically, the best hotels try to be as accommodating as possible. We are here to serve, so why not reach out? Best advice for business travelers: Get Global Entry and TSA PreCheck, and email your preferences. If you travel to the same city frequently, find a hotel you love and stay loyal. They will typically take great care of you: upgrades, early check-in, late check-out. If something goes wrong during your stay, speak with the GM. If you come to L.A., stay at Dream Hollywood.

YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? With recent findings about the impact of industries on the environment and the volatility in weather trends, I think we will see hotel companies truly establish their commitment to eco-friendly, sustainable methods of operating and building hotels. Companies will revisit the building materials and become more discerning about the amount of plastic used on property, finding options that don’t compromise the guest experience. Luxury and sustainability are not mutually exclusive. Best career advice you’ve received: If you make a mistake, quickly own it and apologize. What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Work harder than everyone, do the right thing and do the job you want to get before getting that job. Lastly, watch your peers and learn from their mistakes. This has always served me well. AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: When I traveled to Positano with my wife this summer, surreal beauty surrounded us everywhere. Wander the narrow roads in this colorful vertical village lined with bougainvillea and lemon trees, and

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What can premium travelers expect from the hotel group in 2019? Dream Nashville opened in February in the city’s historic Printers Alley. Beautifully designed by architects Meyer Davis Studio and developed by 4PANT LLC in partnership with Dream Hotel Group, Dream Nashville represents a driving force in the ongoing restoration and revitalization of downtown Nashville. The 168-room hotel features 21 suites and six experiential dining and nightlife venues, offering extensive programming for both hotel guests and locals. Dream Hotel Group includes a number of brands. Tell us about each. Dream Hotel Group believes forward-thinking design, service and guest experiences should be available across all market segments.  Dream Hotels, our upper-upscale lifestyle brand, offers individually curated properties whose designs are informed by their locales through world-renowned architects and interior designers. The stay experience is well-suited to the discerning traveler who seeks comfort in a truly cosmopolitan atmosphere.  Time Hotels caters to a clientele looking for progressively designed spaces and forward-thinking dining options in centrally located cities. Boutique in ethos regardless of room count, Time Hotels delivers an evolved space between luxury and lifestyle, a streamlined approach to the upper-upscale segment. The Chatwal offers bespoke experiences, impeccable world-class interiors, serene wellness components, the finest haute cuisine and wines, and a deep understanding of local cultures to provide highly personalized and distinguished 5-star luxury hospitality in the world’s most desired locales. Unscripted is a new hospitality concept for the progressive, creative traveler, focusing on smaller, secondary cities and emerging markets worldwide. Powered by a philosophy that travel should be an adventure and not a routine, Unscripted adapts to each location, offering beautifully designed, highly activated spaces that meet the needs of both its guests and its home cities.

PHOTO: © DREAM HOLLYWOOD

Name: Ayo Akinsete Title: Managing director/vice president of operations Company, city: Dream Hollywood; Los Angeles, California  Number of employees: 250 Recent project: Dream Hollywood First job: Football player for West Ham United in the U.K. Little-known fact about you: I love music; sometimes people call me a jukebox. I DJ as a hobby.

ABOUT YOUR BRAND Tell our readers about the philosophy of Dream Hotel Group. Selling hotel beds is secondary to what Dream really does. We sell an immersive experience that creates amazing memories for guests to share with other people. The onus is on us to give them a story worth telling. If we execute on part one, then the rooms sell as by-product. There are so many well-designed hotels, but many lack soul. Our staffs give our hotels a soul and personality; guests want to feel special and welcomed, something only great staff can provide. Our management serves our employees as well as our guests. If management prioritizes taking care of its employees, it becomes second nature to take good care of guests.

technology

PLUG AND PLAY Tap into the best devices to suit your lifestyle. BY JACK GUY

PHOTOS: © FITBIT, © ULTIMATE EARS, ©PRO-JECT, © SOLGAARD

FITBIT IONIC Best known for its advanced fitness trackers, Fitbit also makes an impressive smartwatch. The Ionic can track a variety of different workouts thanks to a selection of algorithms, as well as offering best-in-class GPS performance and more than four days of battery life. Combining the best fitness tracking features with a well-designed smartwatch means Fitbit is on to a winner. $269.95 fitbit.com

MEGABOOM 3 Bluetooth speakers have quickly become a must-have for many travelers, and this model from Ultimate Ears boasts a full IP67 waterproofing rating for safe use by the pool or on the beach. The manufacturer claims you can fully submerge the speaker in water with no ill effects, but you’ll probably have more fun listening to its top-notch audio above water. Choose from blue, red or black models, and download the accompanying app for easy controls. $199.99. ultimateears.com

PRO-JECT JUKE BOX E Add a touch of classic sophistication to your home stereo system with this all-inone turntable from Pro-Ject. Connect it to a pair of speakers and make yourself a complete audio system with vinyl playback and Bluetooth connectivity so you can play tunes from your other devices. If you want to play records without getting caught up in a super-complicated hi-fi setup with separate amplifiers, the Juke Box E makes a great choice. $499. project-audio.com

LIFEPACK Business travel often involves taking valuable gadgets along for the ride, as well as some security worries. Solgaard came up with an anti-theft backpack for great peace of mind. The Lifepack features an anti-theft lock, secret pockets for vital documents and a drop-proof laptop compartment, as well as a solar charger and battery pack so you will never run out of juice. Plus, it’s water-resistant, so you won’t have to worry about damaging your stuff if you get caught in the rain. $179. solgaard.co

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wine & spirits

TASTING NOTES Chappellet celebrates 50 years of its acclaimed Napa wines.

BY EUNICE FRIED

llet appe ly h C on The was y r e n built wi ond c e s the fter pa, a davi, a N in on rt M Robe he repeal t since hibition. ro of P

FIFTY YEARS AGO, Molly and Donn Chappellet left their life in swanky Beverly Hills and moved their family to a rugged, 320-acre mountainside in Napa Valley called Pritchard Hill. Donn’s goal: to make fine wine that would echo some of the world’s top growths. Throughout the years while the Chappellets produced a number of other excellent varietal wines, the highest-quality wine has always been Pritchard Hill Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, made from mountainside-grown grapes. And throughout those years, it has proven to be outstanding and long-lived, one of Napa’s and, possibly, one of the world’s finest Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines. To celebrate its 50th, Chappellet held a tasting that featured 10 vintages of its Pritchard Hill Cabernets. We began with the 2016, deep, dark-shaded and with an aroma of rich, ripe berry followed by a taste that is toasty with spicy notes and a long, delicious finish. Next came 2012, also deep and dark in color. Four years older and more evolved, it features a smooth, silky taste and an overall lovely melding of berry flavors. We moved to 2007: deep-shaded, lightly toasty, smooth,

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mouth-filling, with aromas and tastes suggesting a mix of berries; well-structured and rich. The 2004 was especially focused, concentrated and big, a mouth-filling wine of depth. We moved to 1997: big, complex and full-bodied with a depth of flavors, and then to 1992, which I found complex and spicy although slightly less rich than later Pritchard Hills. The color of the 1987 is still deep and dark. The taste still shows richness and spice, with an interesting complexity in the flavors and balance. On to the 1980: firm, complex, with depth of flavors; delicious and fascinating. The 1975 still displays a sturdy acidity along with a ripeness and just a hint of age; and finally, the 1969, which at 50 years of age still shows remarkable vigor and depth. Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon sells for about $250. Donn Chappellet died in 2016 at age 84. His son Cyril now heads the winery, with the promise of many more vintages of Chappellet Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon to come.

VINEYARD VISTAS:

Chappellet garden view (left), and Molly and Donn Chappellet in 1968 PHOTOS: © MOLLY CHAPPELLET

wealth

TAX TIME

PHOTO: © TIAGO ESTIMA - DREAMSTIME.COM

The government shutdown took its toll on the IRS. AS WE ALL KNOW, the U.S. government shut down for 35 days earlier this year. As of this writing, another shutdown loomed. Because of the shutdown, the IRS has been short-staffed. Even though IRS workers were ordered to return to work, many continued to skip, claiming financial hardship due to not receiving a pay check, citing their inability to put gas in their car or pay for child care, among other reasons. They were to receive back pay upon returning to work. This tax season was already shaping up as a tough one due to the new tax laws enacted for 2018. The government shutdown exacerbated the situation. The new tax laws have had a ripple effect for a few different reasons. First, the withholding tables were changed; as a result, some groups estimate tax refunds will be more common, while others believe taxpayers will owe more this year. There have been discussions about lowering or abating the penalties for taxpayers who have not had enough tax dollars withheld due to the changing of the tax tables. Also, because of the tax law changes — and historically speaking — more incorrect tax returns will be filed, slowing the IRS’s ability to process tax returns. In addition, since the new tax laws were enacted so quickly, many tax professionals are still waiting for guidance, further slowing things down. Many cases were put on hold during the shutdown and now need to be resurrected. The amount of work to be done exceeds the number of workers who can do it quickly. It will make the IRS employees’ to-do lists rather lengthy. If you have a question for the IRS or an audit or issue that was to be worked on prior to the shutdown, it will take some time, and you may be on hold for lengthy periods before you can get your issue resolved. For those hoping or knowing they will receive a refund and looking for the best way to receive it expeditiously, take these two important steps. File your return electronically; while most taxpayers do this already, some still file with paper. If your tax return shows you are entitled to receive a refund, be sure to have it electronically deposited into your bank account. The tax laws are different for 2018, so if you are preparing your own return, be cognizant of the changes. If you have a professional assisting you, be sure to ask what, if anything, you should do differently in 2019. The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional financial advice. Always seek the expertise of a certified financial advisor or other qualified provider with any questions you may have regarding personal finance, investment and money-related issues.

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tours

THE GREAT UNKNOWN Explore the less familiar cities and sights of Europe.

BY KRISTY ALPERT

IT WASN’T BY ACCIDENT I arrived early to the train platform that morning. Rumors of the Swiss train system’s punctuality had not only piqued my curiosity but also inspired my 15-minuteearlier wake-up call. I took a seat near my platform in the Zürich Main Station, one of the busiest in the world, and marveled endlessly as the iconic Swiss Railway Clock took its 1.5-second pause before it started its next minute rotation, a design thought to “bring calm in the last moment and easy punctual train departure.” Like many European travelers, I’ve picnicked beneath the Eiffel Tower in Paris, pröst-ed at Oktoberfest in Munich and snapped a selfie at the Tower of Pisa, and now the lesser-known destinations and obscure experiences beckoned. Armed with a Swiss Travel Pass from Rail Europe — the pass gives holders access to trains, buses and boats as well as free entrance to 500-plus museums, with suggested itineraries and tips for getting off the beaten path — I boarded the train on time and set off on a journey to explore the cities I had never heard of before and experience Europe’s less famous foods, sights and smells. In response to a recent travel report from Intrepid Adventure Travel that found 43.4 percent of travelers look to get off the beaten track, many tour operators increase their offerings to include tours of little-known sites throughout Europe. Rail Europe makes it easy to hop around to these undiscovered destinations, but tour operators like Intrepid Travel also offer options such as hiking tours through Andorra and rafting trips through Slovenia. Best of the Alps, a cooperation among many Alpine destinations, encourages travelers to get out and interact with locals throughout Germany, Austria, Italy and Switzerland. Its website features a range of artists, adventurous men and women, chefs and others who tell their stories and offer inspiration for ideas on what to eat, drink and do while in town. Hear from a wooden sledge maker about the 100-year-old history of these hybrid snow bicycle/sleds before taking to the hills in his native Grindelwald for a test drive through the snow, or learn why one of the country’s most celebrated chefs now cooks for an exclusive crowd within a furniture store in Davos before you book one of the few tables in the store.

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK:

Wine tasting at Cramele Recas in Romania (above); on the train to Montenegro along the most historic and unchanged train journey in Europe, from Belgrade to Bar (left); and exploring the Vintgar Gorge in Bled, Slovenia (below) PHOTOS: © MARK ALPERT

2019 GT Tested Reader Survey Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.

HOTEL BEST AIRLINE BEST

Overall Best Airline in the World ____________________________________________________ Airline Alliance _______________________________________________________________________ Aircraft Type ________________________________________________________________________ Airline Website ______________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing Airline – Trans-Pacific _____________________________________________ Best Corporate Program for Business Travelers _________________________________ Best Airline for . . . Business Class __________________________________________________________________ International First Class ________________________________________________________ Domestic First Class ____________________________________________________________ Onboard Service _______________________________________________________________ Lounges ________________________________________________________________________ Flight Attendants _______________________________________________________________ Flight Attendant Uniforms _____________________________________________________ Airline Cuisine __________________________________________________________________ Security _________________________________________________________________________ First-Class Seat Design ______________________________________________________________ Business-Class Seat Design ________________________________________________________ Best New Airline Service Launch ____________________________________________________ Best Frequent-Flyer Programs Overall Best Frequent-Flyer Program __________________________________________ Elite-Level Program _____________________________________________________________ Bonus Promotion ______________________________________________________________ Award Redemption _____________________________________________________________ Customer Service ______________________________________________________________

BEST AIRLINE BY LOCATION Best Airline in . . . Africa____________________________________________________________________________ Australia and New Zealand_____________________________________________________ Central/South Asia and India _________________________________________________ China ___________________________________________________________________________ Eastern Europe _________________________________________________________________ Europe __________________________________________________________________________ Mexico __________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East ________________________________________________________________ North America __________________________________________________________________ North Asia (excluding China) ___________________________________________________ The South Pacific _______________________________________________________________ To South America and Central America ____________________________________________ To Japan _____________________________________________________________________________ Trans-Atlantic Airline ________________________________________________________________ Trans-Pacific Airline _________________________________________________________________

AIRPORT BEST Overall Best Airport in the World ___________________________________________________ Overall Best Duty-Free Shop in the World __________________________________________ Airport Staff/Gate Agents ___________________________________________________________ Airport Dining _______________________________________________________________________ Airport Shopping ___________________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing U.S. Airport ________________________________________________________ Duty-Free Shops in . . . Asia _____________________________________________________________________________ Africa____________________________________________________________________________ Europe __________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East ________________________________________________________________ Best Airport in . . . Asia _____________________________________________________________________________ Africa____________________________________________________________________________ Europe __________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East ________________________________________________________________ North America __________________________________________________________________ South America __________________________________________________________________

Best Individual Hotel in the World ________________________________________________ International Hotel Chain _________________________________________________________ Domestic Hotel Chain _____________________________________________________________ Lifestyle Hotel _____________________________________________________________________ MICE Hotel ________________________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) Hotel Website _____________________________________________________________________ Best Frequent-Stay Programs Best Hotel Rewards Program in the World __________________________________ Elite-Level Program ___________________________________________________________ Bonus Promotion ____________________________________________________________ Award Redemption ___________________________________________________________ Customer Service_____________________________________________________________

HOTEL BEST BY LOCATION Best Hotel in . . . Asia ___________________________________________________________________________ Europe ________________________________________________________________________ South Korea __________________________________________________________________ The Middle East ______________________________________________________________ The United States ____________________________________________________________ Best Hotel Chain in . . . Asia ___________________________________________________________________________ Europe ________________________________________________________________________ Latin America _________________________________________________________________ Mexico ________________________________________________________________________ The Middle East ______________________________________________________________

OTHER BEST Overseas Delivery Program ______________________________________________________ Rental Car Company ______________________________________________________________ Tourism Destination ______________________________________________________________ MICE City __________________________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) WiFi Service ________________________________________________________________________ Luggage Brand ____________________________________________________________________ Hotel App __________________________________________________________________________ Airline App _________________________________________________________________________ Best Small- to Mid-Sized Business Program _____________________________________ Credit Cards Best Overall Credit Card __________________________________________________________ Best Small-Business Credit Card _________________________________________________ Best Credit Card Special Events __________________________________________________ Credit Card Rewards Program ____________________________________________________ Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card ________________________________________________ Promotions ___________________________________________________________________ Benefits _______________________________________________________________________ Redemptions _________________________________________________________________ Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card________________________________________________ Promotions ___________________________________________________________________ Benefits _______________________________________________________________________ Redemptions _________________________________________________________________ Best Cruise Line Affinity Credit Card ______________________________________________

PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO: Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or FAX to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/gt-tested-awards-ballot Name Street Address City Home Phone

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ZIP Code Email

spas

ISLAND BLISS Indulge in a pampering paradise for two at The Spa at Ko‘a Kea in Hawai‘i.

RELAXATION AND ROMANCE: Resort aerial view

PHOTO: © KO’A KEA HOTEL & RESORT AT PO‘IPŪ BEACH

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THE TUCKED-AWAY LOCATION of the Koʻa Kea Hotel & Resort on the island of Kauaʻi proves a most appealing feature to couples seeking a quiet, romantic Hawaiʻian interlude. It also presented a bit of a challenge to my husband and me as we sought the entrance to its drive off the lushly landscaped boulevard which parallels Poʻipū Beach on the island’s sunny south shore. Armed with precise directions and using our vehicle’s navigation feature, we still managed to drive right past before reversing our course and spotting an inconspicuous sign tucked among the foliage. The grounds and buildings of two large resorts flanked the winding road which ended at the circular drive in front of Koʻa Kea’s main building. As we entered the lobby, the floor-to-ceiling windows drew our gaze out over the saltwater pool, the palm-studded lawn and fire pits to the ocean just a few hundred feet away. Koʻa Kea boasts the closest hotel accommodations to the water on Kauaʻi, offering immediate access to water sports and stunning sunset views. The property opened in 2009 and has garnered numerous “most romantic” and “best hotel” awards from a host of travel publications and organizations. Its name, meaning “white coral” in Hawaiʻian, honors the goddess representing spiritual power and new life. Fitting, as Koʻa Kea was built on the site of the former Poʻipū Beach Hotel,

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BY PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS

destroyed by devastating Hurricane Iniki in 1992. We anticipated it boded well for our upcoming couple’s treatment at the spa, too, as we looked forward to a little rejuvenation after several full days of touring the island. We stayed at another property on Kauaʻi but were drawn to The Spa at Koʻa Kea for its focus on the use of natural, indigenous ingredients in its treatments. The Garden Isle provides the seaweed, pineapple, guava, coconut and a plethora of other botanicals as well as the famous Kauaʻi red clay and red sea salt which inform the scrubs, wraps, facials, and hair and skin treatments on the spa menu. While featuring just five treatment rooms, the spa offers an impressive selection of massages, body treatments and facials, individually or in packages. In addition to the locally sourced, indigenous botanicals of Mālie Organics, the spa highlights Kerstin Florian products as well. We made our way to the second-floor spa where Brandy, the spa concierge, greeted us and had us fill out the spa paperwork before she introduced us to our therapists, Jenny and Machiko. They escorted us to the couple’s suite, its pale walls, dark wood accents and dim lighting creating a calm ambience. Once Harry and I settled on our tables, neroli oil was placed in an infuser beneath us, offering a

light, refreshing, slightly citrusy scent. We had decided on a Pohaku hot stone massage, as neither of us had ever had one before, and it seemed only fitting here in Hawaiʻi to experience a massage using smooth, heated volcanic stones bathed in tropical nut oils. The spa menu stated this ancient healing treatment would encourage relaxation and wellbeing while melting knotted muscles and increasing circulation. It proved to be every bit as relaxing and soothing as promised. Jenny began by gently massaging my back with warm oil before settling a row of stones down my spine. The combination of the weight and heat felt so comforting, draining tension from my chronically tight shoulders and neck. I’ve benefited from more intense massages with much firmer pressure in the past, but I found this approach much more in line with my vacation mindset and the island vibe. As the stones worked their magic, Jenny quietly massaged my arms, hands and calves before removing the stones and

having me turn onto my back. (Aside from having to get off the table at the conclusion of a treatment, I’ve always found this the most difficult maneuver, as I’m too relaxed to want to budge!) My feet, legs, shoulders, neck and scalp received more gentle kneading before Jenny softly announced she would be leaving the room, and I could take my time getting up. Harry voiced my own wish after Machiko also left the room: “Can’t I just lie here and take a nap?” We resisted that urge, but we did take our time getting dressed and making our way back to the reception area. The spa doesn’t offer a lounge area or changing rooms, as most visitors are guests of the resort and can unwind in their rooms. We did appreciate the opportunity to sit by the pool and explore the grounds, including the oceanside spa cabana. As the valet brought our car around, we agreed that a future visit to Kauaʻi would have to include a stay at this peaceful resort and some more rejuvenating pampering in its spa.

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OCEAN OF CALM: Spa cabana

PHOTO: © KO’A KEA HOTEL & RESORT AT PO‘IPŪ BEACH

The Spa at Ko‘a Kea Ko‘a Kea Hotel & Resort at Po‘ipū Beach 2251 Poipu Road Koloa, Hawai‘i 96756 tel 808 835 9793 koakea.com meritagecollection.com

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chefs

BACK IN THE U.K. Chef Martin Cahill takes the helm at Rosewood London. BY KIMBERLY KROL

WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? This is a challenging question, as I’ve worked in a range of places alongside many talented chefs. However, you cannot deny the chefs who stood the test of time. Those I’ve had the pleasure of working with include Thomas Keller, Martín Berasategui, Joël Robuchon and the Roca brothers — all represent how to preserve a longstanding reputation, maintain simplicity and consistency and effectively develop your team. It is no coincidence chefs who worked under these greats often became esteemed chefs in their own right.

HOSPITALITY IS NO STRANGER to Chef Martin Cahill. After a career working in high-profile, luxury hotels in the Americas, Asia and the Middle East, Cahill returned home last year to take the helm at Rosewood London. Responsible for overseeing and managing the daily operations at the hotel’s Scarfes Bar and Mirror Room, he also looks to ensure culinary excellence at all times — something he’s been known to do around the globe, from Mandarin Oriental properties in Asia to DUKES hotel in Dubai. Diners feel like sparkling gems in the jewelry box that is Mirror Room, serving an all-day dining menu alongside a selection of fine wines and Champagnes. At Scarfes Bar, which finds inspiration in drawing rooms, cozy up with cocktails, live music and shelves filled with more than 1,000 antique books hand-picked by a Portobello antiques dealer.

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WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE? Since leaving the United Kingdom at an early age and subsequent to honing my style at The Savoy and The Dorchester, both extraordinary schools, I spent time working for Ross Lusted in Sydney, who really showed me a refreshing and novel approach to cooking. He managed to strike an impressive balance between the impeccably high standards achieved by the entire team and a strong sense of fun and camaraderie. This experience changed my outlook. WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? Taipei is a sensational city for food.

I found the level of authenticity and simplicity so refreshing, with a perfect balance of flavor profiles. It is a destination worth visiting, and I like how it is not generally regarded as a foodie destination. Stand-out dishes were xiao long bao, the world-famous steamed buns, and char siu bao, barbecue pork buns. The dim sum cuisine is treated as an art, with many restaurants receiving fresh produce every morning and showcasing chef talent in an open kitchen. Hong Kong also inspired me with its abundance of local food, including snake soup, chicken feet and dim sum. Although the city holds numerous Michelin stars, it also takes great pride in simple eateries. The quality of produce in this area is also phenomenal, showcasing the best of Southeast Asia with some of the greatest fish accompanied by great, committed people. WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? This is a difficult question to approach; however, I hope we divert back to the basics and core elements of hospitality, with chefs having a real love for their produce and seasonality, with farmto-table approaches the ultimate goal. Providing an experience for guests with more focus on personable service, a great atmosphere conducive to relaxation and a homey feel is what we should aim for in terms of consistent trends. I also recognized an increased tendency for high-end restaurants to offer menu items appealing to a health-conscious crowd, accompanied by wine pairings, so perhaps we can expect to see more of this. ROSEWOOD LONDON 252 High Holborn London WC1V 7EN United Kingdom tel 44 20 7781 8888 rosewoodhotels.com

PHOTO: © ROSEWOOD LONDON

WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR CULINARY CONCEPTS? I love travel; I’ve been lucky to live and work in some extraordinary places. It all began in London, where I learned fundamental skills. Since then, I’ve spent many years in Southeast Asia, Hong Kong and Thailand; cities like Mumbai also strongly inspired me. I am particularly fond of places that showcase fresh, local produce, keeping it simple and allowing the ingredients to speak for themselves. In Asia, a lot of the best offerings are street food, prepared in minutes — proving simplicity and consistent techniques remain the backbone of the industry.

cruising

ALL IN THE FAMILY Cruise lines know how to please passengers of all ages.

MANY CRUISE LINES are only too happy to keep the whole family entertained these days, as some 42 percent of parties now sail with children under 18. Mid-sized to mega-sized ships offer the widest range of programs and facilities dedicated to kids and teens, although these playgrounds at sea are not the only option. Some all-inclusive luxury liners and smaller expedition ships are also family-friendly. Among major premium line choices, Disney Cruise Line takes center stage. Not only do Mickey and friends roam the decks, but dashing figures from Star Wars and the superheroes of Marvel Comics also come to life. Especially popular with children ages 4–11, Disney runs programs for every age group, from babies to teens and beyond, capped by its 1820 Society, which sponsors exclusive get-togethers for passengers ages 18–20. Although Disney dedicates nearly a full deck of space exclusively to kids, many onboard activities bring families together, from themed deck parties, Broadway-style musicals and character breakfasts to mother-daughter and father-son spa treatments. Disney’s top rivals offer plenty of kid-friendly diversions, too. Royal Caribbean International’s big ships feature some spectacular attractions, including bumper cars, zip lines, rock climbing walls and ice rinks. Norwegian Cruise Line’s Splash Academy teaches circus skills, from tumbling to juggling, that children (ages 3–17) then perform in a special show for parents. Holland America Line

BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER

and Princess Cruises both offer extensive kids’ clubs and slightly lower-key, more “mature” activities. Princess, for example, provides Ping-Pong and bocce as well as family shore excursions with Animal Planet-themed tours focused on whales, sharks and other wild critters. While high-end, all-inclusive cruise lines lack the full onboard facilities and array of programs for children of the larger mainstream operators, several are quite welcoming to parents with kids, especially on summer and holiday cruises. Celebrity Cruises maintains “fun factories” for children and a GenNXT program for 18- to 20-year-olds. On the final evening of some voyages, Celebrity’s Parents Night Out gives parents a night of dining and entertainment to themselves while children attend a pizza feast and slumber party on their own. Many of Crystal Cruises’ luxury sailings also set aside special spaces with Junior Activities programs for 3- to 17-year-olds that include water polo and teen discos. A third but rarer option is an expedition cruise designated as a family adventure. Forget water parks and disco parties; instead, these educational cruises focus on parents and children interested in exploring nature, both separately and together. On select Galápagos and Alaska sailings, for example, Lindblad Expeditions’ National Geographic Global Explorers Program enables kids to earn a Zodiac “driver’s license” while recording wildlife sightings and participating in guided field activities on shore.

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FUN FOR ALL:

Bumper cars and rock climbing wall on a Royal Caribbean International cruise PHOTOS: © ROYAL CARRIBEAN INTERNATIONAL

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HOSPITALITY MORE THAN JUST A WORD

Our Business Class experience is made of true hospitality which comes from our hearts. It is central to everything we do. MORE THAN JUST MOVIES AND GAMES

MORE THAN JUST A MEAL

Hundreds of movies and music albums, Live TV, free Wi-Fi connection and much more will be at your fingertips.

During your flight, a truly fine dining experience will take your taste buds above the clouds.

MORE THAN JUST A VISIT MORE THAN JUST A TRANSFER With the Exclusive Drive* service, private chauffeur driven vehicles will take you to or from the airport, with a pleasant, luxury ride.

Lounge Istanbul will refresh you before your meetings with five-star facilities such as gourmet dining, suite rooms, shower, piano, massage therapy and mini golf.

*Now available in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, Montreal, New York, San Francisco, Toronto and Washington.

MORE THAN JUST A SEAT A special seat that turns into a fully flat bed, an abundant legroom, seat separators for your privacy, luxury amenity kits and more. All for your comfort.

turkishairlines.com

EXCLUSIVE DRIVE STILL ABOVE THE CLOUDS Exclusive drive service makes your travel experience all the more comfortable. Whether you are travelling to or from the airport, luxury chauffeur-driven vehicles are on hand to drive you to meet your flight or to take you to your hotel, office or home.

exclusivedrive.turkishairlines.com

feature

Fifteen and Fabulous Global Traveler celebrates the 2018 GT Tested Reader Survey award winners. BY KIMBERLY KROL | PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK AND NICOLAS BATES

OVERLOOKING THE CITY OF LOS ANGELES atop The Peninsula Beverly Hills, Global Traveler lauded its milestone 15th annual GT Tested Reader Survey awards. It was truly a night to remember as we celebrated those travel companies consistently going above and beyond, as voted by our readers. In addition to honoring those winners, we also feted the Airline and Hotel of the Year; winners of our 2018 Wines on the Wing airline wine competition; the Quint Status winners; and, for the first time, the Crystal Status winners, those companies that won the same GT Tested Reader Survey award for the 15th consecutive year. The Peninsula Beverly Hills proved the perfect host venue for the eighth year in a row. As always, its staff, cuisine and views stunned. A number of sponsors

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joined in the festivities, including JP Morgan Chase, celebrating wins for its cobranded United MileagePlus cards with a Dom Perignon raffle; and Ontario International Airport, which awarded one lucky winner round-trip tickets to Taiwan. Terry Waite, a humanitarian and truly compelling speaker, joined us once again as our guest of honor. Waite kicked off our celebrations as the guest of honor at our first event 15 years ago, and again when we commemorated our 10th. As an official of the Church of England, Waite was taken hostage on his third trip to Lebanon in 1987 and released 1,763 days later. Today he remains a consummate traveler and peacekeeper, and we thank him for sharing his time with us again. Be part of the action as we recap the night’s festivities on the following pages.

WINNERS' CIRCLE  Best Overall Airline in the World Singapore Airlines Fourth Consecutive Year Best Airline Alliance oneworld Ninth Consecutive Year Best Aircraft Type Airbus A380 Best Airline Website aa.com Second Consecutive Year Fastest-Growing Airline, Trans-Pacific American Airlines Second Consecutive Year Best Airline for International First Class Korean Air Best Airline for Business Class Turkish Airlines Second Consecutive Year Best Airline for Domestic First Class American Airlines Third Consecutive Year Best Airline for Onboard Service Asiana Airlines 15th Consecutive Year Best Airline for Flight Attendants Asiana Airlines 15th Consecutive Year Best Airline Cuisine Alitalia Ninth Consecutive Year Best Flight Attendant Uniforms Hong Kong Airlines Best Airline for Security EL AL Israel Airlines 12th Consecutive Year

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WINNERS’ CIRCLE Best Business-Class Seat Design Alitalia Best First-Class Seat Design Air France Best Airline for New Service Launch Hong Kong Airlines (SFO–HKG) Best Corporate Program for Business Travelers Turkish Airlines Corporate Club

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Best Overall Frequent-Flyer Program United MileagePlus 15th Consecutive Year Best Frequent-Flyer Elite-Level Program Alaska Airlines Mileage Plan – MVP Gold Best Frequent-Flyer Bonus Program United MileagePlus Sixth Consecutive Year Best Frequent-Flyer Award Redemption Air Canada Aeroplan

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Best Frequent-Flyer Customer Service American Airlines AAdvantage Best Airline in North America American Airlines Best Airline to South America LATAM Airlines Group Fifth Consecutive Year Best Airline in Mexico Aeromexico Ninth Consecutive Year Best Airline in Australia and New Zealand Qantas Best Airline in the South Pacific Air Tahiti Nui Best Airline in Europe TAP Air Portugal Eighth Consecutive Year

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1. Perry Cantarutti, senior vice president, alliances, Delta Air Lines; Terry Waite 2. Jiho Choi, general manager, marketing, regional headquarters, Asiana Airlines; Terry Waite 3. Tara From, director of member management, United Airlines; Terry Waite 4. Damion Rose, director, marketing promotions, South African Airways; Terry Waite 5. Jamie Rhee, commissioner, Chicago Department of Aviation

6. Mark Thorpe, CEO, Ontario International Airport; Terry Waite 7. Brianna Dingman, senior marketing associate, JP Morgan Chase; Terry Waite 8. David Canty, vice president, global loyalty programs, InterContinental Hotels Group 9. Nick Teare, vice president, global brand marketing, Marriott International Luxury Brands

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WINNERS’ CIRCLE Best Airline in Eastern Europe LOT Polish Airlines Second Consecutive Year Best Airline in Africa South African Airways 15th Consecutive Year Best Airline in the Middle East Emirates 4

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Best Airline in North Asia EVA Air

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Best Airline in China Hainan Airlines Sixth Consecutive Year Best Airline in Central/ South Asia & India Air India Fifth Consecutive Year

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Best Airline to Japan Japan Airlines Second Consecutive Year Best Trans-Atlantic Airline Brussels Airlines Best Trans-Pacific Airline Japan Airlines Second Consecutive Year Best Overall Airport in the World Singapore Changi Airport Third Consecutive Year Best Airport in North America Chicago O’Hare International Airport 15th Consecutive Year

1. Jason Brusa, director, co-brands, United Airlines; Terry Waite 2. Offer Nissenbaum, managing director, The Peninsula Beverly Hills; Terry Waite 3. Pablo Chiozza, vice president, USA, Canada, Caribbean, LATAM Airlines Group 4. Charles “Chilly” Ewing, airport concessions director, Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport 5. David Kammann, finance director, CFO, Citibank; Terry Waite

6. Neelja Sharma, West Coast sales manager, Air India; Terry Waite 7. Dennis Robbins, general manager, Hertz; Terry Waite 8. John Boettcher, vice president, commercial and membership, oneworld 9. Laura Stringel, director of sales, direct channels, reputation and community management, resorts, Posadas

Best Airport in Asia Incheon Airport Second Consecutive Year Best Airport in Africa Addis Ababa Bole International Airport Best Airport in Europe Amsterdam Airport Schiphol

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WINNERS’ CIRCLE Best Airport in the Middle East Hamad International Airport Second Consecutive Year Best Airport in South America El Dorado International Airport, Bogotá Best Airport Staff/Gate Agents Turkish Airlines Second Consecutive Year

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Best Airport Dining Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport Fifth Consecutive Year Best Airport Shopping Amsterdam Airport Schiphol Second Consecutive Year Fastest-Growing U.S. Airport Ontario International Airport, Ontario, California Best Duty-Free Shopping in the World Dubai Duty Free 12th Consecutive Year

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Best Duty-Free Shopping in Asia Singapore Changi Airport Second Consecutive Year Best Duty-Free Shopping in Africa Addis Ababa Bole International Airport Best Duty-Free Shopping in Europe Amsterdam Airport Schiphol Second Consecutive Year Best Duty-Free Shopping in the Middle East Dubai Duty Free Second Consecutive Year Best International Hotel Chain The Ritz-Carlton Fourth Consecutive Year Best Domestic Hotel Chain The Ritz-Carlton Fourth Consecutive Year

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1. Carlos Paneiro, vice president of sales, TAP Air Portugal; Fern Ottavio, director, passenger sales and marketing, North America, TAP Air Portugal 2. Gregory Stranz, executive director, JP Morgan Chase 3. Kyle Mabry, vice president, Western division sales, American Airlines 4. Abdulaziz Abdulla Al Mass, vice president, commercial and marketing, Hamad International Airport, Doha

5. Christophe Allard, director, North America, Brussels Airlines 6. Mathieu Bechonnet, CEO, Air Tahiti Nui 7. Michael Bolmer, vice president, travel, entertainment and affinity partnerships, Barclays 8. Mert Dorman, senior vice president, Turkish Airlines Corporate Club 9. Ersen Engin, general manager, Turkish Airlines

Wonderful moments await IHG Rewards Club® wants to thank Global Traveler readers for voting us Best Frequent Stay Program in 2018. And we want to make sure you don’t miss out on our best rate – Your Rate. This exclusive rate is only available to IHG Rewards Club members, and is just one of our many benefits. - Earn points on each stay - Enjoy complimentary Internet - Redeem your points for Reward Nights, gift cards, and more

To get the best rate, book on IHG.com or in the IHG app.

© 2019 IHG. All rights reserved.

InterContinental Sydney Double Bay

Most hotels are independently owned and operated

Sydney, Australia

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WINNERS’ CIRCLE Best Lifestyle Hotel Aloft Hotels Best MICE Hotel Lotte Hotel Seoul Fourth Consecutive Year Best Hotel Club Floor Grand Hyatt Grand Club 5

Best Hotel Website peninsula.com

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Best New Luxury Hotel in Asia Le Méridien Seoul Best Luxury Hotel in Asia SIGNIEL Seoul Best Hotel Rewards Program in the World InterContinental Hotels Group IHG Rewards Club 14th Consecutive Year Best Frequent-Stay Elite-Level Program Marriott Rewards Platinum Elite

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Best Frequent-Stay Bonus Program Marriott Rewards Best Frequent-Stay Award Redemption Hilton Honors Best Frequent-Stay Customer Service Marriott Rewards Best Hotel in the United States The Peninsula Beverly Hills Eighth Consecutive Year Best Hotel in Asia Mandarin Oriental, Taipei Second Consecutive Year Best Hotel in South Korea Lotte Hotel Seoul Seventh Consecutive Year

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1. Dragan Drobnjak, sales manager, Aeroflot Russian Airlines 2. Sinead El Sibai, vice president, marketing, Dubai Duty Free 3. Jayson Goh, managing director, airport operations management, Singapore Changi Airport 4. Mark Law, director, product management, Boingo 5. Tim Lee, vice president, Western United States, Singapore Airlines 6. Gonzalo Robles Daud, vice president, sales, Aeromexico

7. Hideki Takarada, vice president, passenger marketing, the Americas, Japan Airlines 8. Alvaro Werner Gonzalez, CEO, El Dorado Airport 9. Laurinda Rainey, managing director, travel and affinity co-brand, JP Morgan Chase 10. Jennifer Plasket, senior vice president, sales and marketing, Bank of America 11. Richard Krulik, CEO, Briggs & Riley 12. Adrian Kubicki, director of corporate communications, LOT Polish Airlines

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WINNERS’ CIRCLE Best Hotel in Europe Belmond Hotel Cipriani, Venice Best Hotel in the Middle East Burj Al Arab Jumeirah Second Consecutive Year Best European Hotel Chain St. Regis Hotels & Resorts Third Consecutive Year

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Best Hotel Chain in Asia Shangri-La Hotels & Resorts Best Hotel Chain in Latin America InterContinental Hotels and Resorts Second Consecutive Year Best Hotel Chain in Mexico Fiesta Americana Eighth Consecutive Year Best Hotel Chain in the Middle East Jumeirah International

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Best Overseas Delivery Program Volvo Third Consecutive Year Best Rental Car Company Hertz Fifth Consecutive Year Best Tourism Destination Kenya Best MICE City Seoul Fourth Consecutive Year Best WiFi Service Boingo Wireless Eighth Consecutive Year Best Noise-Cancelling Headset Sony Digital Noise-Cancelling Headphone MDR1000XM2 Wireless Best Luggage Brand Briggs & Riley Ninth Consecutive Year Best Ride Share Lyft

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1. Dean Maxwell, sales and marketing director, Hong Kong Airlines 2. Francesca Luce, head of customer relationship marketing, Alitalia 3. Sam Shank, CEO, HotelTonight 4. Kai Zhao, general manager, Hainan Airlines 5. Diederik Scheepstra, commercial director, USA, Air France 6. Alexandra Romero, director, Hilton product management, American Express; Stephanie Miller, director, co-brand product management, American Express 7. Tanja Dik, director, consumer

products and services, Amsterdam Airport Schiphol; Andre van den Berg, chief commercial officer, Amsterdam Airport Schiphol 8. Anna Althoff, director, Hyatt 9. Gerardo Murray, regional vice president of marketing, Mexico, Latin America & the Caribbean, InterContinental Hotels Group 10. Frances Tsai, hotel manager, Mandarin Oriental Taipei; Luanne Li, director of marketing communications, Mandarin Oriental Taipei 11. Jaesung Rhee, president and CEO, Seoul Tourism Organization

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New nonstop service to Bologna. Introducing the only new nonstop service to Bologna (BLQ) from Philadelphia International (PHL). This gateway to Tuscany offers a variety of things to do – from a hike to the top of San Luca or a stroll through Piazza Maggiore. Whatever you choose, the splendor of Bologna awaits. Book now at aa.com

American Airlines, Flagship and the Flight Symbol logo are marks of American Airlines, Inc. oneworld is a mark of the oneworld Alliance, LLC. © 2019 American Airlines, Inc. All rights reserved.

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WINNERS’ CIRCLE Best Hotel App HotelTonight Best Airline App American Airlines Best Overall Credit Card United MileagePlus Club Card from Chase Seventh Consecutive Year Best Credit Card Rewards Program United MileagePlus Club Card from Chase Seventh Consecutive Year

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Best Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card Marriott Rewards Premier Credit Card from Chase Seventh Consecutive Year Best Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card Promotions Hilton Honors Card from American Express Third Consecutive Year Best Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card Benefits Marriott Rewards Premier Credit Card from Chase Second Consecutive Year

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Best Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card Redemptions IHG Rewards Club Select Visa Card Best Credit Card Special Events Inside Access from Chase Third Consecutive Year Best Small Business Credit Card Chase Ink Cash Business Preferred Credit Card Best Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card Alaska Airlines Visa Signature Card from Bank of America Seventh Consecutive Year Best Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card Promotions Citi / AAdvantage Platinum Select World Elite Mastercard Fifth Consecutive Year Best Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card Benefits Citi / AAdvantage Platinum Select World Elite Mastercard Best Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card Redemptions United Explorer Card from Chase Sixth Consecutive Year Best Cruise Line Affinity Credit Card Princess Cruises Visa Signature Card from Barclays

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1. Stephen Thompson, senior executive vice president, Qantas 2. Shin Han, assistant manager, public relations, Incheon Airport 3. Caroline McDonald, vice president, global sales and marketing, Rosewood Hotels & Resorts; Achim Lenders, senior vice president, operations, Americas and Europe, Rosewood Hotels & Resorts; Tricia Rosentreter, corporate director, brand communications, Americas and Europe, Rosewood Hotels & Resorts 4. Bridget Higgins, senior director, global brand management, Aloft 5. Amanda Bailey, director,

marketing worldwide, Hilton Honors; Bradley Anderson, director, strategy and program management, Hilton Honors 6. Yoram Elgrabli, managing director, North and Central America, EL AL Israel Airlines 7. David Lim, executive vice president, Lotte Hotels & Resorts 8. Ken Chung, senior vice president, EVA Air 9. Rick Bryant, vice president sales operations, Volvo 10. Nikhil Takalkar, vice president, loyalty operations, Marriott Rewards

HAVE A SWING IN PORTUGAL BEFORE YOUR NEXT STOP. Fly TAP Air Portugal and experience a Portugal Stopover in the "World´s Best Golfing Destination" on your way to over 65 destinations throughout Europe and Africa. It´s two destinations for the price of one. Get the best value at

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AIRLINE AND HOTEL OF THE YEAR Airline of the Year Delta Air Lines

Hotel of the Year Rosewood Hotels & Resorts

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WINES ON THE WING AWARDS Best International Business Class Wines on the Wing Delta Air Lines

Best International First Class Wines on the Wing All Nippon Airways

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Best Champagne International Business Class American Airlines Best Champagne International First Class All Nippon Airways Best White Wine International Business Class Aeroflot

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Best White Wine International First Class EL AL Israel Airlines Best Red Wine International Business Class United Airlines Best Red Wine International First Class American Airlines Best Alliance Wines on the Wing oneworld Best North American Wines on the Wing American Airlines Best North American Sparkling Wine JetBlue Best North American White Wine American Airlines Best North American Red Wine American Airlines

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1. Jason Brusa, director, co-brands, United Airlines; Tara From, director, member management, United Airlines; Richard T. Evans, senior vice president, FXExpress 8 Publications, Inc. 2. Francis X. Gallagher, publisher and CEO, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Terry Waite 3. Mark Thorpe, CEO, Ontario International Airport; Stephen Thompson, senior executive vice president, Qantas; John Boettcher, vice president of membership 12 and customer experience, oneworld 4. Brianna Dingman, senior marketing associate, JP Morgan Chase; Gregory Stranz, executive director, JP Morgan Chase 5. Francis X. Gallagher, publisher and CEO, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Ersen Engin, general manager, Turkish Airlines; Mert Dorman, senior vice president, Turkish Airlines Corporate Club; Terry Waite, with Turkish Airlines flight attendants 6. Carly Allen, executive vice president and associate publisher, FXExpress Publications, Inc; Francis X.

Gallagher, publisher and CEO, FXExpress Publications, Inc. 7. Perry Cantarutti, senior vice president, alliances, Delta Air Lines 8. Damion Rose, manager, marketing promotions, South African Airways; Paula Newtown, director, sales development, Western region, South African Airways 9. Angelique Platas, associate editor, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Katie Skrzek, vice president and digital director, FXExpress Publications, Inc. 10. Tim Lee, vice president, Western USA, Singapore Airlines; Amy Sarto, brand and marketing manager, Americas, Singapore Airlines; David Rezaieh, director, Hotel Financial Strategies 11. Rina Nehdar, journalist; Howard Nehdar; Kimberly Krol, editor in chief, FXExpress Publications, Inc.; Tara From, director, member management, United Airlines 12. The American Airlines team celebrates their 14 wins! 13. Offer Nissenbaum, managing director, The Peninsula Beverly Hills

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feature

A World of Wonders UNESCO’s World Heritage list aims to protect and promote outstanding natural and cultural sites. BY KARIN LEPERI NATURAL AND CULTURAL:

(Left to right) Wildlife in the Okavango Delta in northern Botswana; Angkor, Cambodia; Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor (terracotta warriors); and Banff National Park in the Canadian Rockies PHOTOS: © STEVE ALLEN DREAMSTIME.COM, © SORIN COLAC - DREAMSTIME.COM, © TATSUO115 - DREAMSTIME.COM, © HELLEN8 - DREAMSTIME.COM

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THE CULTURAL AND NATURAL DIVERSITY around the world is breathtaking; however, in the past it was up to each country to protect that heritage. For decades, UNESCO — the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization — bestowed locations with the World Heritage Site designation, requiring the protection of properties with “outstanding universal value” in order to be listed. To quote directly: “To be deemed of Outstanding Universal Value, a property must also meet the conditions of integrity and/or authenticity and must have an adequate protection and management system to ensure its safeguarding.” By doing so, all countries of the world

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took a big step forward in promoting a world consciousness of the innate value of country heritages — both cultural and natural. UNESCO inscribed the first World Heritage sites in 1978, with 12 making the list. The United States contributed two of the 12 that year: Yellowstone National Park, the most seismically active area of the Rocky Mountains with more than 200 features like geysers, hot springs, mud pots and fumaroles; and Mesa Verde, an architectural tribute to the lost Anasazi (Ancestral Pueblans) civilization. The Galápagos Islands, famous for the sheer number of unique and endemic species, also made the list, as did two sites from Canada: Nahanni National Park in the Northwest Territories for its river, cave and canyon landscape; and L’Anse aux Meadows, a national historic site in Labrador marking the earliest European presence in North America. TODAY THE UNESCO WORLD Heritage list includes 1,092 properties. Of these, 845 are deemed culturally significant while 209 meet the natural criteria, and 38

properties contain a mixture of both cultural and natural value. That’s the upside. The downside? Two have been delisted (Arabian Oryx Sanctuary of Oman and Dresden Elbe Valley in Germany), and 54 properties are in danger. And the list does not recognize gender equality, either, as two religious sites are restricted to men only — Okinoshima Island in Japan and Mount Athos in Greece. Initially, it was believed a UNESCO World Heritage listing would bestow prestige and prove economically beneficial to countries by promoting tourism and providing incentives to protect cultural and natural heritage for future generations. Unfortunately, that hasn’t always been the case. While the list of manmade and natural landscapes around the world may be dazzling, the reality is environmental issues stemming from over-popularity by making the list, terrorism and perceived cultural bias can detract from the original noble purposes of UNESCO. For example, in 2016 the organization was challenged for referring to sites in Jerusalem through a Muslim lens, thus detracting from Jewish people and their historic connection. SOME SITES, ONCE THEY MAKE the World Heritage list, discover the designation may not be permanent. The List of World

Heritage in Danger was designed to bring world attention to areas requiring corrective measures and cooperation. Listings can result in positive outcomes; the Galápagos Islands and Yellowstone National Park have subsequently been removed from this list because of positive developments. Another danger listing — Everglades National Park — was on the list from 1993 to 2007 and again since 2010 because of “continued degradation of the site resulting in a loss of marine habitat and decline in marine species.” Removal from the list occurs when there are improvements in management and conservation to the original reasons for inclusion. However, UNESCO succumbed to sustained lobbying efforts by the Australian government to de-list the Great Barrier Reef as late as 2016, in direct defiance of evidence showing widespread destruction and substantial die-off of the coral reef. THE UNITED NATIONS’ cultural agency meets annually to decide the newest nominations to join the UNESCO World Heritage List. Debate centers around 10 criteria, of which at least one must be met in addition to being of “outstanding universal value.” That translates into unmatched natural beauty or environmental, cultural or historic

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SITES TO SEE:

Rock Sites of Cappadocia, Turkey (top); and sunrise over the Masada fortress in the Judean Desert (bottom) PHOTOS: © TETYANA KOCHNEVA - DREAMSTIME .COM, © VVVITA - DREAMSTIME .COM

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significance that can include art, architecture, cultural traditions, landscape and Earth’s history, according to UNESCO. It can also include communities of plants and animals. But first a site must be nominated. To be considered for nomination to the World Heritage Site List, a property must be designated on a Tentative List. This is merely a cumulative inventory of those properties countries/ nations intend to consider for nomination. For example, over the years the United States designated these properties for the Tentative List Process (ironically, that is where they remain): Petrified Forest National Park (2008), White Sands National Monument (2008), Dayton Aviation Sites (2008), civil rights movement sites (2008), Ellis Island (2017) and the Brooklyn Bridge (2017).

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FOR MANY TRAVELERS, the World Heritage list provides yet another opportunity to create a bucket list, offering the necessary motivation to directly experience some of the world’s greatest heritage. But with more than a thousand sites currently listed, where does one start? I find the easiest way is to visit the ones in your home country. Begin with the state where you reside; for me, that’s New Mexico. The list includes cherished treasures such as Carlsbad Caverns National Park, Chaco Culture National Historical Park and Taos Pueblo. Then expand your horizons by including the listed national parks. They are the Everglades, Grand Canyon, Great Smoky Mountains, Mammoth Cave, Mesa Verde, Olympic National Park, Redwood National Park and State Park, Yellowstone and Yosemite. Next, go global. With 110 countries under my belt and still counting, some of my favorite UNESCO sites include Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park in Australia; Wachau Cultural Landscape, Austria; Okavango Delta, Botswana; Angkor, Cambodia; Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks; Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor (terracotta warriors) in China; LedniceValtice Cultural Landscape, Czechia; Galápagos Islands, Ecuador; Cathedral of Notre-Dame, Former Abbey of Saint-Remi and Palace of Tau, Reims, France; Upper Svaneti, Georgia; Upper Middle Rhine Valley, Germany; the Acropolis, Athens; Budapest, Hungary, including Banks of the Danube, Buda Castle Quarter and Andrassy Avenue; Masada, Israel; Archaeological Areas of Pompei, Herculaneum and Torre Annunziata in Italy; Mount Kenya National Park/Natural Forest, Kenya; Kathmandu Valley, Nepal; the Kremlin and Red Square, Moscow; Singapore Botanic Gardens; Göreme National Park and Rock Sites of Cappadocia, Turkey; Ngorongoro Conservation Area, Tanzania; and Mosi-oa-Tunya/Victoria Falls in Zambia. Wherever and whatever you visit, UNESCO World Heritage sites are all part of an enriching and culturally enhancing experience that can only promote intercultural understanding of manmade heritage and appreciation of the awe-inspiring natural world in which we live.

ion lect , e s s 10 site the e g t a u bo rit f ils a rld He t list o a t e o d te en ebsi For a for W he curr w t eri CO s to ES crit s e N c ac eU plus visit th g. .or s, site .unesco hc at w

mice | AUCKLAND

Center Stage Auckland prepares for a leading role in the global business events market. BY MARLENE GOLDMAN MAIN EVENT: Artist’s rendering of the New Zealand International Convention Centre PHOTO: © AUCKLAND TOURISM, EVENTS AND ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT

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NEW ZEALAND’S HUB FOR ARTS AND CULTURE is about to gain momentum as a mecca for MICE groups. As Auckland readies its upcoming New Zealand International Convention Centre, due to open in 2020, a slew of new hotel developments will introduce an additional 4,000 rooms over the next five years. “The development of the New Zealand International Convention Centre means Auckland is able to be more competitive on the global stage for largescale business events,” said Anna Hayward, head, Auckland Convention Bureau. “At an impressive 32,500 square meters [nearly 350,000 square feet], with 33 meeting spaces and a 2,850-seat theater, the NZICC will be the largest and most versatile confer-

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ence, exhibition and entertainment space in New Zealand.” The NZICC will be five times larger than the current largest convention facilities in New Zealand and will be capable of hosting conferences of around 3,150 attendees and one-off events of around 4,000 people. It already proves a popular venue, with several conferences booked throughout 2020 and 2021. Projections indicate by 2025 Auckland will welcome more than 4 million visitors a year (58 percent more than now), creating an estimated $13.9 billion visitor economy (up 85 percent). The expanded accommodation capacity of the NZICC will help support the forecast growth of Auckland’s business events sector, predicted to rise to $438 million in 2025, a 105 percent increase compared to 2014. Auckland’s luxury hotel sector is particularly booming, according to Hayward, with a number of international brand names entering the market for the first time, including Four Points by Sheraton, The Ritz-Carlton, Park Hyatt and SO/Auckland, just recently opened. Plans are also in the works to expand the Auckland Cordis hotel, making it the biggest in New Zealand by room count. Its new 16-floor tower is scheduled to open in late 2020, in time for the America’s Cup and Asia-Pacific Economic Forum. The addition will include 250 rooms and increase its event space. A host of hotels are also undergoing renovations. Castle Resorts & Hotels recently announced a 125-room hotel conversion: the Liberté Hotel, opening in the Aotea Quarter in 2019. IHG’s significant investment into Auckland encompasses two large develop-

DINING AND DISPLAY: The Museum of Transport and Technology PHOTO: © MOTAT

UNIQUE VENUES One of Auckland’s icons and New Zealand’s largest transport, technology and social history museum, The Museum of Transport and Technology offers a range of unique venue spaces to host up to 800 people cocktail-style or 350 for a seated dinner. Across its 40 acres guests can dine among heritage aircraft in the Aviation Display Hall, suitable for award ceremonies, dinners and cocktail events, among other options. motat.org.nz

ments, Hotel Indigo and InterContinental Auckland. The latter, part of Auckland’s $1 billion Commercial Bay waterfront precinct, will include 244 rooms due to open in 2022. Sudima Hotels & Resorts also announced it will build a 200-room Sudima Hotel in Auckland’s city center, due for completion in 2020, complementing its existing property at Auckland’s airport precinct. “Auckland is undergoing an unprecedented transformation, with more than $26 billion of public sector investment on top of the billions of dollars of private investment flowing into the city in the next decade,” Hayward said. Major transformational projects include the Auckland City Rail Link — the largest transport infrastructure project ever undertaken in New Zealand. It allows the rail network to at least double rail capacity. New rail transport growth statistics suggest that by 2035, CRL stations will need to cope with 54,000 passengers an hour at peak travel times, compared to the original estimate of 36,000. NZICC will connect to public transit and will lie a short ride from the Auckland International Airport. Hayward also notes all major central city attractions and venues will be no more than a 10-minute walk from the site. According to Hayward, Auckland Council’s Planning Committee recently voted to pedestrianize Queen Street and some surrounding inner-city streets in the hope the city center will become a tourist destination itself. “Auckland’s increasing infrastructure, greater air con-

nectivity and now the 4,000-people capacity of NZICC mean a number of previous barriers to attracting largerscale international business events are gone. Auckland is now a serious player in the global business events market,” Hayward said. Aside from the upgrade in its infrastructure, Auckland also ramps up its venue offerings. The Aotea Centre, currently undergoing a phased refurbishment. will transform to enable innovative performing arts activities and attract more world-class creative talent and events. Its interior refresh began in October, with the Centre set to reopen this month. Other popular options include the Auckland Museum – Tamaki Paenga Hira, known for its Neoclassical architecture, and SKYCITY Auckland Convention Centre, a conference venue accommodating 20 to 2,000 guests. Another MICE option, Hilton Auckland, features a unique waterfront location and harbor views. The 165-room hotel offers seven multipurpose rooms overlooking the water and can host up to 700 guests. The ASB Waterfront Theatre, another unique conference and events venue, combines business with the city’s arts and culture scene. Located in the heart of Auckland’s Wynyard Quarter precinct, the theater complex offers several versatile event spaces with the ability to host more than 600 guests. Located on picturesque Waiheke Island and just a 35-minute ferry ride from the central city, Cable Bay Vineyards offers space for business events, from an intimate board meeting to a dinner for 180 delegates.

The Auckland War Memorial Museum also caters to groups. The architecture of the building itself makes it a unique draw, including its Neolithic columns. MICE groups can enjoy a Māori cultural performance or experience a welcome surrounded by sacred taonga (treasures). Other options include a special after-hours exhibition tour or cocktails with dinosaurs. aucklandmuseum.com One of the city’s large-capacity venues, Shed 10 is a 100-year-old cargo shed full of history and offering views of Auckland’s Waitematā Harbour. Its industrial character, which groups can use as a blank canvas, represents an important remnant of Auckland’s early maritime heritage. The only original building still standing on Queens Wharf, it now serves as the default terminal for Auckland’s cruise industry and an events space perfect for a gala dinner for up to 800 people. aucklandlive.co.nz/shed-10 Kauri Bay Boomrock, an experiential venue located about a 45-minute drive from downtown Auckland, sits on a private, 500acre property with coastal views. It focuses on quality New Zealand cuisine, including a whiskey tasting option, and a wide range of on-site activities. Options include clay bird shooting, hot lapping with professional drivers, archery or a 4×4 all-terrain experience. kauribayboomrock.co.nz

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WE LCO M E

H OME

Experience the newly redesigned rooms, suites and villas complemented by residential comfort, contemporary furnishings and legendary Peninsula service.

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BUSINESS destinations

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MONTEVIDEO

PHOTOS: © ADAM WASILEWSKI - DREAMSTIME.COM, © JOSEMARIA TOSCANO - DREAMSTIME.COM

LEISURE destinations

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BELFAST

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LISBON

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MOAB DESERT

The color ful tiles adorning buildings many of in Lisbon the are know and you n as azule can learn jos, about the history a ir 500-y t the Nat ear ional Tile Museum.

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destination one | MUSCAT

State of Calm Muscat flourishes in the prosperous and peaceful Sultanate of Oman. BY SHARON KING HOGE COASTAL STROLL: Muttrah Corniche PHOTO: © REJI ITTIACHAN DREAMSTIME.COM

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SITUATED ON THE ARABIAN PENINSULA, often amid Middle East chaos and turmoil, Oman manages to maintain a countenance of decorum and civility. Evading military clashes between its neighboring states, it implemented long-range plans for development and emergence. Much of the activity focuses on its capital city, Muscat. Lying between the El Hajar Mountains and the Arabian Sea, Muscat serves as the seat of the country’s political, administrative and economic systems and home to a third of the country’s 4.5 million residents. With its proximity to the sensitive

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Strait of Hormuz, Muscat proved a historically important trading port in the Gulf of Oman, attracting foreign tradesmen and settlers who came to trade in fishing and agriculture. Persians, Spaniards and Ottomans were among overseas travelers to ancient Muscat, admired as “very elegant” by a 16th-century Portuguese writer. Muscat’s sprawling 1,400 square miles divide into three principal urban areas: Muscat proper, the original settlement and now an enclave of restored historic homes and buildings; Waterfront Muttrah, the harbor scene of shipping and cruise ship anchorages, upgrading to enhance its appeal to visiting tourists; and the commercial district centered in Ruwi, a cluster of high-rise apartments, office buildings and headquarters of international companies. Ruled since the 18th century by the Al Said Dynasty, friction with imams of the interior destabilized the sultanate until 1970 when

COMING AND GOING

U.S. citizens must have a valid passport with six months validity and a visa. No sponsor is required for 10-day, single-stay visas, which can be obtained online. Visas must be used within a month of approval; the fee is $62.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE

Arabic is official; many residents are familiar with English. Hindi and Urdu are common among the sizeable Indian population.

Qaboos bin Said, with assistance from the British, overthrew his father in a bloodless coup. Consolidating and renaming the region the Sultanate of Oman, Sultan Qaboos united tribal territories and launched programs to end the country’s isolation and to use oil revenues for modernization and development. Slavery was abolished, and freedom of religion was allowed. To promote internal stability and to supplement expats and immigrants, in 1988 the country initiated Omanization. The local population is enlisted and trained to integrate into the workforce, expanding the economy and infrastructure. Companies are rewarded for increasing their quota levels toward the target goal of 72 percent local personnel. Five-year development plans initiated in 1976 resulted in the establishment of the petroleum industry; construction of the new shipping port, Mina Qaboos; and new ministries for social services, health, education and the tourist industry. Oman emerged with a higher standard of living than that of neighboring countries. As it has throughout history, trade dominates the economy, with oil products joining the traditional exports of dates, fish and mother-of-pearl. Muscat is home to multibilliondollar conglomerate CK Industries, and major trading companies Suhail Bahwan Group and Saud Bahwan Group partnered with dozens of international corporations including Toshiba, Toyota, Hewlett-Packard, Mitsubishi, General Motors and Chrysler. Petroleum Development Oman — a joint operation of the government, Shell, Total and Partex — reported a combined oil, gas and condensate production record for 2016 equal to 1.29 million barrels of oil equivalent per day, with a growing expansion into hydrocarbon,

LODGING

AL BUSTAN PALACE, A RITZCARLTON HOTEL Said to be one of the world’s finest hotels, this splendid urban resort is a favorite project of Sultan Qaboos. Al Bustan Street, Quron Beach $$$$$ GRAND MILLENNIUM MUSCAT Conveniently located in the heart of the city’s business and diplomatic district near the two great malls, this 5-star hotel offers a Zanta spa and meeting rooms with panoramic city views.

Dohat al Adab Street, Al Khuwair $$$ KEMPINSKI HOTEL MUSCAT Arab and contemporary décor blend in this luxury 5-star beach resort with spa, tennis court and watersports on its three-mile stunning coastline. 335 Street 6, Al Mouj $$$$

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WELCOME TO OMAN:

Port of Muscat (top); and Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque (bottom), which allows non-Muslims to visit PHOTOS: © WAUPEE - DREAMSTIME.COM, © GALINASAVINA - DREAMSTIME.COM

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renewable energy generation and water management. Established in 1988, the principal stock exchange, the Muscat Securities Market, operates with transparency, disclosure regulations and requirements. Numerous hospitals, clinics, universities and schools thrive in the private sector. The country applies a multitude of assets to lure investors: the educated and largely bilingual workforce; good health care and schools for families; easy access to global markets through a modern infrastructure network; and a stable, secure and predictable investment climate. Dependent on imported goods, Oman promotes policies that welcome entrepreneurs and small businesses. Grain and vegetable farming, gas stations and haulage, tourism and perfume shops, electronics and home appliances, commodity stores, bars and restaurants list among suggested venture opportunities. Clearly, the leadership of Sultan Qaboos deserves credit as a key to Oman’s progress. The longest-serving monarch in the Arab world, a devotee of opera and classical music, he received his education in India and at the Royal Military Academy Sandhurst in England. While his rule is absolute, he is said to rely more on the business elite than on family members for counsel. Nearing age 80 with no clear heir, the delicate issue arises of whether his successor would maintain absolute power or take steps to separate state powers. Peaceful protests following the Arab Spring raised issues of job opportunities, salary increases, establishment of Islamic banks and expulsion of some current ministers. But for the time being, the outlook for Muscat includes a continued, methodical integration into the global scene.

CHECKING IN WITH HAURA AL-WAHAIBI

Oman Commercial Attaché, Washington, D.C. Embassy of The Sultanate of Oman in the United States   Living in America, what do you miss about Muscat? I miss special occasions, national and religious holidays, and weekends when extended families get together and have picnics and trips, every time to different places. Also I miss the weather — it can be hot there, but at least it is warm and sunny. Mainly, I miss the people.   How has the country changed during your lifetime? My mother didn’t have the opportunity to study; school was limited to boys. And Muscat’s big city gate closed after sunset. You were either locked in or locked out. You had to go through the government to get eyeglasses. Now His Majesty modernized education and health, and everybody is happy about the changes.   Why is Muscat a good place to do business, and what are compelling opportunities?   The government supports foreign direct investment, offering a package of incentives: five years’ tax exemption, plus Americans have 100 percent ownership of their companies and can send their money home with no restrictions. Business is flourishing because Oman has spent a lot of money developing the seaport and the new airport. We focus on economic zones, free zones and seaports that are logistic hubs. South of Muscat, Duqm on the Indian Ocean is the largest economic zone in the Middle East. Trade is good business — shipping American products not only for use in Oman but for distribution. We have storage and seaports, so it is easy to distribute to the Middle East and to Indian and African markets.    What is the attitude toward women? We deal with men and women like brother and sister, even in government and operations. We are

DINING

AL ANGHAM Situated within the impressive Royal Opera House complex, Al Angham features Omani culture and décor, dishes, motifs and silverware inspired by the Sultanate’s heritage. Royal Opera House, Sati Al-Qurmt $$$$ BAIT AL LUBAN Situated with views of the old port, the “house of Omani hospitality” serves traditional meals combining flavors from the early trading routes to East Africa and India. Al Mina Street, Muttrah Corniche $$$$ KURKUM Indian cooking — biryani, prawn curry, coconut rice — is the focus at this cozy and casual spot on the Corniche near the souk on Muttrah Harbor. Way No. 08, Muttrah Corniche $$$ BUSINESS CONTACT: Haura Al-Wahaibi

PHOTO: © HAURA AL-WAHAIBI

equal, and the government believes in women and gives preference to them.    What tourism is encouraged, and is the country safe to visit? We focus on culture and community-based activities in nature. Oman has wilderness parks, mountains, beach resorts and a combination of sea and mountains you can’t find in other Middle Eastern countries. Oman is one of the safest countries in the world, 100 percent safe. The Omani people and our leaders don’t believe in war and self-promotion. Oman has no issue with its neighbors.   Is there concern about leadership after Sultan Qaboos? Our government is stable. We don’t have your kind of competition between parties. We are working in one party and one system, so we don’t have competition about who will rule.  

JUST THE FACTS

Time zone: GMT +4 Phone code: Country code: 968 City code: 24 Currency: Omani rial Key industries: Oil, manufacturing, transportation, tourism, fisheries, agriculture, mining

INFO TO GO

Lying about 20 miles south of the old city on Sultan Qaboos Highway and originally called Seeb, Muscat International Airport is the country’s main airport and the hub for Oman Air and Salam Air. A new passenger terminal with 118 check-in counters and 45 gates opened in 2018, with further expansion planned to number it among the world’s top 20 airports by 2020. Public buses stop in front of the airport area; hotel shuttles are preferred. Blue-andwhite metered taxis to the business district cost around $25.

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CULTURAL EXCHANGE:

Arabian lamps for sale at a souk (top), and The Royal Opera House Muscat (bottom) PHOTOS: © LUKASZ KASPEREK DREAMSTIME.COM, © TYPHOONSKI - DREAMSTIME.COM

DIVERSIONS

History, beaches and culture provide abundant options for sightseeing and recreation. Visitors can charter boats for fishing and diving. The waterside corniche lined with date palms and monuments connects the historic fish market and extensive bazaar. Follow it south toward the massive city gates into the ancient center, now a region of restored historic adobe huts and flowery boulevards surrounding the sultan’s palace. Scattered in both regions, museums feature culture and folklore, and tourist attractions include restored Portuguese forts. Keep in mind offices close for lunch from noon to 2:30 p.m.; stores close from noon to 1 p.m., then remain open until 8 p.m. At night, the area north of Seeb transforms into a warren of fish restaurants and clubs where shop windows display dazzling, colorful women’s ensembles of harem pants, gauzy veils and jangling coinage. The multidisciplinary Royal Opera House presents an incredible array of programs, among them ice skating shows, La Traviata, classical ballet, blues, a Mahler symphony, timeless Arab songs and the Chucho Valdés Quintet. Oman’s leading arts and cultural institution, this mammoth gold and marble structure, surrounded by extensive gardens, merits a visit in itself.

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

The Perfect Ski Resort

Look no further than LOTTE Arai Resort for a luxurious stay paired with some of the world’s best skiing. IT MAY ALREADY BE MARCH, but that doesn’t mean ski season is wrapping up. At LOTTE Arai Resort in Myoko City, Niigata Prefecture, Japan, skiers can swish down the slopes and enjoy some of the world’s best skiing until May. So far this year, the area boasts more than 16 feet of powdery, light, fluffy snow. SKI SEASON KICKED OFF December 2018, and skiers around the globe descend on LOTTE Arai Resort for downhill skiing surrounded by a picturesque snowy landscape and 5-star accommodations. The luxury boutique resort reopened December 2017 after an

extensive renovation and is now equipped with some of the world’s best facilities. Niigata Prefecture in the northeastern part of Japan is widely known as the origin of skiing in the country. ADDING TO THE EXCEPTIONAL skiing, LOTTE Arai Resort’s location at Mt. Ohkenashi allows skiers at the top to enjoy stunning sea views on a clear day. A total of 14 courses are on offer, with the longest at more than 17,000 feet. The resort caters to all levels of skiers, with courses for beginners, mid-levels and experts distributed throughout. LOTTE Arai Resort

hosts the world-renowned Freeride World Tour Japan Series this month. CHILDREN WILL RELISH in the sleigh area, and everyone in the group will love the abundance of winter sports on offer. It’s not all about skiing. Asia’s longest zip line, at nearly 5,000 feet and more than 3,000 feet above sea level, can be found at LOTTE Arai Resort, as can the longest tubing course in Japan. Other amenities include bouldering, a square trampoline and more. After hitting the slopes, unwind in a fantastic outdoor onsen created naturally by alkaline-based spring water. Complete your après ski experience by indulging in delicious, fresh seafood and traditional Japanese liquor. WINTER DELIGHTS AWAIT travelers to LOTTE Arai Resort. For inquiries and reservations, visit lottehotel .com/aria-resort/en.

stateside | HARTFORD

Yankee Ingenuity Hartford reinvents as it builds an innovations ecosystem. BY JANICE HECHT RIVERFRONT:

Hartford skyline across the Connecticut River PHOTO : © SEAN PAVONE DREAMSTIME.COM

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QUIET CONNECTICUT. The Land of Steady Habits. Not sobriquets you’d expect to define the home state of an emerging technology hub tucked between New York and Boston. In fact, Hartford — deeply engaged in the digitized economy — ranks as the fourth-best city for tech jobs in the country, according to the Brookings Institution. A big accomplishment for a mid-sized city. The state and its capital boast a long history of ideas and inventions — from the Colt revolver to a Revolutionary War submarine to the Frisbee. The first insurance company opened here in 1810, setting Hartford on its path as the Insurance Capital of the World. Defining cultural figures such as Mark Twain, Harriet Beecher Stowe, J.P. Morgan and Katharine Hepburn called Hartford home. As insurance, finance and health care drive the digital economy, this region proves a great place for people with technology skills to work, live and play. The commitment of CVS to keep its new acquisition, health insurer Aetna,

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in the city helps Hartford retain jobs and its status as insurance capital. And as technology transforms the insurance sector, the city looks to innovate within its legacy industries. Last year the National League of Cities and Schmidt Futures named Hartford “the country’s premier destination for insurance technology,” as part of the new City Innovations Ecosystem initiative. Last December, India-based Infosys, a global leader in technology and next-generation services, opened its $21 million Technology and Innovation Hub in Hartford’s recently refurbished Goodwin Square building, one of the company’s six new regional U.S. hubs. It will hire 1,000 workers here by 2022 and focus on insurance, health care and manufacturing clients. The new InsureTech Hub startup accelerator will transform the insurance industry with new technology to improve the customer experience and simplify policy management. In the manufacturing sector, Stanley Black & Decker’s Advanced Manufacturing Center of Excellence, “Manufactory 4.0,” leads the company’s worldwide automation efforts with the internet of things, cloud computing, artificial intelligence, 3D printing, robotics and advanced materials, with the goal of bringing startups to Hartford. This May, the first-ever International Space Trade Summit in Hartford will give Connecticut’s aerospace components manufacturers — including United Technologies Corp.’s Collins Aerospace — the opportunity to partner with global companies and stake a claim in the space sector. Skilled talent is critical for employers, especially with rapid changes in technology. The state recently earmarked $2.5 million to open two technology training schools, one in Hartford, to provide hundreds of job seekers

with skills in data analytics and code writing. Infosys partnered with the city’s Trinity College to create educational programs that prepare liberal arts students and employees for the digital workplace of the future. As Connecticut strives to attract and keep professional, creative millennials, Metro Hartford makes strides in the lifestyle assets that appeal to this demographic. These include the successful Lime bike-sharing program and a Complete Streets initiative, as well as the return of commuter rail with the opening of the Hartford Rail Line connecting to New Haven and Springfield. Professional sports get a boost with the arrival of the Hartford Yard Goats Double-A MLB team and the Hartford Athletic United Soccer League team. Visitors and residents enjoy a growing arts, craft brewery and restaurant scene as well as new neighborhood parks and communities in this vibrant, walkable city. Facing bankruptcy before a controversial state bail-out kicked in, Hartford now works to change from a 9-to-5 city, attracting people to live downtown and encouraging daily commuters to stay to enjoy its offerings. Look for the June opening of Parkville Market, a vibrant food hall reminiscent of Manhattan’s Chelsea Market, boasting more than 50 curated, owner-operated shops in the emerging arts enclave of Parkville. Over the past 18 months, a dynamic entrepreneurial movement also emerged, with organizations providing support and space for innovators to connect and collaborate. Innovation Destination, TechStars and Upward Hartford all launched operations to empower entrepreneurs, and Makerspace CT will open soon. Don’t look to the skyline for dramatic changes. Rather than erecting new structures, developers focus on renovating historic factories and office towers into apartments. Since 2015 the downtown added 885 rentals receiving funding from The Capital Region Development Authority, with occupancy averaging 95 percent. Another 551 units are in progress, with 110 more on the drawing board. Business visitors find Hartford a compact, convenient city. Bradley International Airport, 16 miles from downtown, boasts convenient parking, plentiful charging stations, free WiFi, restaurants and a relaxed atmosphere. All of these and direct Aer Lingus flights to Dublin make it an attractive alternative to New York and Boston gateways. The 540,000-square-foot Connecticut Convention Center — the largest between New York and Boston — hosts trade shows, conventions and business events in a dramatic riverside setting. The exciting news on the hotel scene is the reopening of the landmark Goodwin Hotel with a renewed cosmopolitan vibe in the heart of downtown. Maintaining its historic architectural details, The Goodwin excels at modern luxury in its guestrooms, duplexes and suites; J.P. Morgan called it home on his stays in Hartford. At its Restaurant Porrón, Chef Tyler Anderson goes all in with Spanish-inspired meals. In a state that once hummed at the center of historic industrial revolutions, Hartford looks to transform with a new wave of technology companies and entrepreneurs, living up to the state’s tourism motto: “Connecticut: Still Revolutionary.”

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SCENIC DRIVES

Connecticut’s name derives from the Algonquian Quinnehtukqut, meaning “beside the long tidal river.” The 410-mile Connecticut River flows from the Canadian border, passing through Hartford on its way to Long Island Sound. A charming ride takes you across the river on the Hadlyme-Chester Ferry, in operation since 1769, to Gillette Castle State Park. William Gillette, Hartford native and an actor renowned for his stage portrayal of Sherlock Holmes, built the 24-room castle in 1914 on his 184-acre estate that offers woodland hiking trails. Head south on I-91 to Exit 22S to merge onto CT-9S toward Middletown/Old Saybrook. Take Exit 7 for CT-82E; follow to CT 431 to CT-148W and follow the signs for the ferry. The ferry operates April 1–Nov. 30. Enjoy a day in the coastal village of

CITY CHARACTER:

Mark Twain House, where the author and his family lived from 1874 to 1891 PHOTO : © F11PHOTO - DREAMSTIME.COM

Mystic, about an hour’s drive, where you can stroll among shops and restaurants and savor some of the best seafood in New England. Mystic Aquarium’s indoor and outdoor exhibits feature rescued seals, beluga whales and endangered African penguins. Mystic Seaport Museum recreates a 19th-century seaport village with a collection of whaling ships and period crafts. Take I-91S to Exit 22S to merge onto CT-9S, from which you can pick up I-95N in Old Saybrook. Take Exit 90 and continue on Frontage Road to the aquarium, or turn right on Route 27 S to reach the seaport.

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Take Me to Tahiti Consider Air France for your next trip to the beautiful Tahitian islands. a perfect sunset view beckons you to the pool bar. You can also enjoy breakfast in room, delivered via canoe, before snorkeling in the coral garden or indulging in a massage at the hotel spa. The island is also the spot to learn how to play ukulele with the locals.

Mana is the life force Tahitians believe connects all things. Feel the mana for yourself on a visit to the islands of Tahiti, and sample some of these activities as you connect with the breathtaking nature of the South Pacific.

PHOTOS: © TAHITI TOURISME

WHEN IN RAIATEA Get to know Raiatea on a catamaran tour or kayak adventure on the Faaroa River. Travelers can also opt to stand-up paddle board on the waterway. Ripe for exploration are the island’s vanilla plantations and Taputapuatea Marae, a UNESCO World Heritage site featuring a number of marae and stone structures and once considered a central temple

WHEN IN MOOREA After you check in at Sofitel Moorea Ia Ora Beach Resort, enjoy the various on-site facilities before a romantic dinner on the beach. Explore further on a subsequent day and rent a buggy to tool around the island, stopping at Belvédère for breathtaking views or shopping for locally made crafts. Other options for your Moorea adventure include a tasting at a fruit juice factory, lagoon tours, swimming with sharks and rays, a motu picnic, zip lining, underwater helmet diving, golfing, snorkeling and more.

WHEN IN TAHA’A An overwater bungalow at Le Taha’a Island Resort & Spa – Relais & Châteaux awaits on Taha’a, and

WHEN IN HIVA OA Horseback through the mountains or explore the Atuona village during your time in Hiva Oa. Fill your suitcase with the local arts and crafts after you get to know one of the island’s sculptors. There’s also the archeological site of me’ae in Puama’u, home to a large tiki statue. WHEN IN TAHITI It’s back to the island of Tahiti for your Air France flight home, but the dream vacation doesn’t have to end just yet. Explore Tahiti further before departing; find romance over dinner at Le Coco’s or sample from les roulottes, or food trucks, gathered near the wharf. Boat to see the legendary Teahupo’o wave and then hike to waterfalls. After checking out Papeete’s sights, take one last moment to savor the incredible beauty surrounding you. For more information, visit airfrance.us.

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9–5 | PARIS

French Finesse Add a bit of flair to meetings with clients in Paris. BY KATIE MCELVEEN UP ON THE ROOF: View of the Eiffel Tower from The Peninsula Paris L’Oiseau Blanc rooftop dining room. PHOTO: © THE PENINSULA PARIS

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AWASH IN HAUTE-COUTURE FLAIR, world-famous restaurants, revelatory museums and iconic sites, Paris is widely regarded as one of the most magnificent cities in the world. But there’s more to Paris than beauty and culture: This hard-working French capital generates more than 30 percent of France’s gross domestic product through businesses representing a wide range of industry sectors that include pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, aeronautics and digital systems. Paris also hosts 27 Top 500 corporate headquarters — more than any other city in Europe — and boasts the fifth-largest urban economy in the world. For business travelers, this means everything you need to do your job — a strong transportation network, a choice of locations for business entertaining and meetings, loads of lodging options and a workforce comfortable with international business representatives — is at your fingertips.

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Start with transport. Two large international airports make Paris accessible from anywhere in the world; RER trains, an easy-to-navigate subway system — the Metro — and legions of taxis have you in town less than an hour after clearing immigration. Lodging proves equally accessible. Hotels abound within the city’s 20 arrondissements, or boroughs; choose one near the city center and you’ll be able to get anywhere quickly on the Metro. If your agenda includes breakfast meetings, consider a larger property where the first meal of the day is served in a quiet space where you won’t have to line up at a buffet or speak over clattering cups. One option: the Hôtel Ritz Paris, where L’Espadon serves a full breakfast under a domed skylight seven days a week. The hotel’s location on the Place Vendome makes it a convenient location from nearly anywhere as well. On the Left Bank, where boutique hotels are the norm, the full-service Hôtel Lutetia, an elegant outlier, reopened in early 2018 after a full renovation. The breakfast menu in chic L’Orangerie includes gluten-free and organic choices.

If you’d rather discuss business over a meal later in the day, opt for lunch over dinner, considered more of a social occasion. Still, it’s best to wait until the end of the meal to discuss nuts and bolts. Instead, chat about culture, food and wine; skip discussions about politics and anything of a personal nature. Whether you choose lunch or dinner, reservations are vital at most restaurants in Paris. Alain Ducasse’s Versaillesinspired, 2-Michelin-starred restaurant within Le Meurice hotel remains one of the city’s top dining rooms; for a meal that includes the glittering lights of Paris as your backdrop, head to The Peninsula Hotel’s L’Oiseau Blanc rooftop dining room. Helmed by one of the first female chefs ever awarded three Michelin stars, Anne-Sophie Pic’s La Dame de Pic serves updated French classics in a polished, comfortable setting. Book a round corner table for privacy with a view of the scene. Dinner in France generally consists of a three-hour affair with multiple courses and several wines. After the host wishes his guests bon appétit, Parisian diners eat slowly but with gusto, enjoying each bite. Bread is generally served as an accompaniment rather than something to nibble before dinner; it’s customary to place your bread on the table next to your dinner plate. French manners also dictate both hands should remain on the table at all times; take care you don’t allow your elbows to join the party. Although most Parisian executives speak English, learning a few simple French words and phrases — starting with hello, please, thank you, nice to meet you and have a good evening — will earn respect from your hosts. Introduce yourself using your first and last names as well as your title; call your associates Monsieur or Madame until they make it clear you’re on a first-name basis. Beyond stellar dining, one of the best things about a business trip to Paris is the chance to explore the city during your downtime and enjoy its iconic vistas. The Eiffel Tower, erected in 1889 as a temporary structure, mesmerizes from any distance but presents a distinct panorama from each of its three levels. From the top-floor balcony of the Musée d’Orsay, occupying a former

CLASSIC PARIS: View of Paris from the Arc de Triomphe (top), and Hôtel Lutetia’s L’Orangerie (bottom) PHOTOS: © SEBIKUS DREAMSTIME.COM, © HÔTEL LUTETIA

train station, the graceful Seine curves and sparkles. Visitors who climb the stairs to the viewing platform atop the Arc de Triomphe, honoring Napoleon’s Grande Armée, are rewarded with a view down the length of the tree-lined Champs-Élysées. If you’d like to take in a museum but need to slip in a quick visit between meetings, pop into the Rodin Museum, a stunning 18th-century manse filled with thousands of the artist’s sculptures and drawings as well as works from Monet and Van Gogh, located amid the boutiques and atmospheric cafés of Saint-Germain-des-Prés on the Left Bank.

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after 5 | MONTEVIDEO

Day and Night Transition from work to play with Montevideo’s after-hours activities. BY SHARON KING HOGE

BUSINESS IN MONTEVIDEO may wind up at 5 p.m., but in this typical Latin heritage city, evenings don’t actually get underway until well after 9 p.m. For those on a Western schedule, there’s plenty to fill in the gap before joining nighttime festivities. At the base of the financial district, separating the old town and the new, Plaza Independencia offers a range of activities in a central location. Bordering the square, the Radisson Montevideo Victoria Plaza Hotel offers one-stop opportunities: a spa, casino, restaurant and bars. Buying a one-day pass for about $30 entitles visitors to use facilities of the comprehensive sixth-floor health club: a large swimming pool with city views; a multiroom gym stocked with weights and Life Fitness machines; a room for exercise classes; and even a bright green, indoor, 80-meter jogging track on which 20 laps equal a mile. To rejuvenate, book body scrubs, hot stone massages, mud therapies and other spa procedures. Downstairs, roulette wheels, slot machines and card dealers amuse gamblers in the Radisson’s Casino Victoria Plaza. Upstairs, Arcadia, one of the city’s finest restaurants, serves dinner — as early as 7 p.m. — and drinks are on tap in the blue neon-lit lobby bar. Look for live music and dramatic performances in two nearby theaters. The ultramodern Auditorio Nacional del Sodre and the landmark Teatro Solís entertain audiences 8–10 p.m. Farther afield, you may find a soccer game scheduled at the home stadium of Uruguay’s national team which, in 1930, won the inaugural FIFA World’s Cup. By 9 or 10 p.m., it’s time to walk a block or two west to the traditional nightlife precinct around Bacacay and Mitre streets. The Pony Pisador plays live music indoors and out on both sides of Mitre Street for patrons snacking on mounded chivito sandwiches while downing the media y medio sweet combination of white and sparkling wines. Next door, fiddlers play jigs and reels at The Shannon Irish Pub, where a full-page menu lists draft beers from Denmark, Russia and Spain as well as Belgian brews such as Delirium Tremens and nine local Uruguay brands. At Parrilla del Teatro, perch on red banquettes for barbecue grilled on the open fire, then walk a few more blocks to Baar Fun Fun to enjoy tango dancing until morning. Known to be gay-friendly, the city has many LGBTQ+ choices, and nearby Chains Pub remains a popular favorite.

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NIGHT MUSIC

Teatro Solís (top), and a band playing Brazilian style music outdoors (bottom) PHOTOS: © PAURA - DREAMSTIME.COM, © DANFLCREATIVO - DREAMSTIME.COM

can sinos a c d een an betw Spas s r u life. he ho night fill t d n ess a busin

An

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SOFITEL LOS ANGELES AT BEVERLY HILLS | 8555 BEVERLY BLVD. LOS ANGELES, CA 90048 | 310-278-5444 WWW.SOFITEL-LOS-ANGELES.COM

neighborhoods | BELFAST

Belfast Revival The Cathedral Quarter’s historic streets come alive with local culture. BY JACK GUY FOR DECADES, TOURISTS largely avoided Belfast, put off by the violent sectarian struggle known as the Troubles. From the late 1960s until a ceasefire was declared in 1994, the largest city in Northern Ireland resembled a war zone, but in the 25 years since, it has undergone something of a renaissance. Thanks to an injection of cash from the British government and the European Union, a wave of shopping centers, hotels, bars and restaurants changed the face of the city. Now home to around 600,000 people, the city of Belfast proves an attractive destination for travelers who want to eat, drink and make merry in a place where history is never far from the surface. Donegall Square serves as the traditional central hub of a city divided into areas known as quarters. One of the best for visitors is the Cathedral Quarter, where the charming streets house great pubs and restaurants. In this historic central district you will find The Muddlers Club, a widely renowned restaurant tipped to be the next Belfast establishment to receive a prestigious Michelin star. Nearby, the local favorite Coppi serves Italian-style tapas known as cicchetti. Wherever you eat, make sure to try some seafood; the cold, deep waters off Belfast provide a huge range of delicious marine treats, and it would be a shame to miss out. The area is known for its traditional architecture and features plenty of old-school pubs where you can spend time getting to know the locals. Check out Bittles Bar, an old pub housed inside a distinctive red-brick flatiron building, as well as Whites Tavern, in operation since the 17th century. Victorian-era gin palaces are also a calling card of the city, with the Crown Liquor Saloon arguably the most spectacular example. Settle into one of the snugs to admire the stained-glass windows and mosaic floors

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PUB FARE: Bittles Bar (above), and Crown Liquor Saloon (left) PHOTOS: © PAULMCCABE1 - DREAMSTIME.COM, © JINGMIN310 - DREAMSTIME.COM

NORTHERN IRELAND Belfast

Dublin IRELAND

over a drink. For a taste of old-school Belfast, explore the winding streets of the Cathedral Quarter and listen for the sounds of traditional music from the pubs. It’s the beating heart of a city that has been through a lot but lived to tell the tale.

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friends & family | LISBON

Ready for Discovery Lisbon lures visitors with unexpected treasures and modern-day pleasures. BY TERRI COLBY IN LISBON, UNLIKE IN OTHER European capitals, first-time visitors arrive without a lot of expectations. There’s no Eiffel Tower, Buckingham Palace or Sistine Chapel. That’s not to say Lisbon has no outstanding historical monuments. Of course it does. They’re just not as well-known as those iconic examples of European travel tours. And that just might be what gives this darling of the must-visit-now lists its special allure. An unexpected treat awaits around every corner. Start with the sidewalks. Who would think

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the material below your feet could be interesting? But Lisbon’s stone-cobbled walkways with gray and white patterns are photo-worthy … and worth keeping your eye on, as they’re not always smooth. And then there are the tiles, the vibrant painted ceramics known as azulejos adorning walls everywhere across the city. Any storefront, office building or even a modest home becomes a colorful work of art. With a city center filled with every high-end store imaginable, the Avenida Liberdade still feels like a place apart, a grand boulevard with

INFO TO GO

Multiple U.S. and international airlines fly non-stop to Humberto Delgado Airport, also known as Lisbon Airport, TAP Air Portugal’s home base. Because the airport is located just six miles from the city center, getting to your hotel can be a snap. Frequent and inexpensive Metro and shuttle services get you into the city in about 20–30 minutes. A taxi, from the stand outside Terminal 1, gets you to the city center in 15–20 minutes in light traffic.

tree-lined promenades, sidewalk cafés dotting the park-like space and tiny streets heading out and upwards at every imaginable angle. Lisbon has become a traveler magnet, bringing it a lot of energy. But it also means tourists need to pack their patience and plan ahead to avoid crowds and grab the restaurant reservations of the coveted fine-dining establishments in town. In fact, the burgeoning foodie scene means you might need to book months in advance for tables at some of the hottest places like Alma and Belcanto, among the city’s top dining spots, both of which display two Michelin stars. Why doesn’t Lisbon rank alongside London, Paris or Madrid in the world’s imagination? Perhaps because Portugal’s golden age lies half a millennium in the past. In the 1500s, Portugal wrestled with Spain for control of the Americas, and Portuguese explorers such as Ferdinand Magellan and Vasco de Gama sailed to Africa and Asia, establishing trading outposts at Goa in what is now India, at Macau in China, and elsewhere. But an invasion by Spain in 1580 sent Portugal into decline, and in 1755 a devastating earthquake leveled Lisbon. As many as 50,000 people perished in the quake and subsequent fires and tsunami. However, the disaster also laid the foundation of the Lisbon visitors see

LISBON TREATS:

(Left to right) Ajuda National Palace, pasteis de nata, azulejos, and city center tram PHOTOS: © TURISMO DE LISBOA, © TURISMO DE LISBOA, © BOGGY - DREAMSTIME.COM, © TURISMO DE LISBOA

LODGING

artwork in a townhouse-style building in one of Lisbon’s best neighborhoods.

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL RITZ LISBON Built at the urging of dictator Antonio Salazar to demonstrate Lisbon could deliver luxury, the hotel proved his point. Luxury endures under Four Seasons with a fabulous art collection.

Ave. da Liberdade 164 $$$$

Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca 88 $$$$$ HOTEL VALVERDE LISBOA This boutique 25-room hotel is comfortable and stylish with vintage and contemporary furnishings and vivid

TIVOLI AVENIDA LIBERDADE LISBOA The location of this grande dame couldn’t be better, along Lisbon’s finest boulevard. Its light-filled, extravagant lobby is elegant and welcoming, just like the staff. Ave. da Liberdade 185 $$$$

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GOLDEN AGE: Belém Tower

PHOTO: © SEAN PAVONE - DREAMSTIME.COM

16, n 20 i d e s Open , Lisbon’ T , A t MA of Ar m u Muse ure and itect Arch , explores y ary nolog Tech ontempor t s c is ju d n a ure cultu zens of m . isit f do one o worth a v s seum

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today: The rebuilt city was the first of its size to be designed in a grid system, with broad avenues and expansive squares. Reminders of Portugal’s golden age are most evident in the city’s Belém district, well worth a visit. About five miles from the city center, Belém is easily accessible via tram or taxi. It was from Belém the famed Portuguese explorers began their worldwide voyages. You can visit the ship-shaped Monument to the Discoveries, built in 1960 to commemorate 500 years of maritime exploration; the Belém Tower, a UNESCO World Heritage monument and the starting point for many of the voyages; and the late-Gothic-style Monastery of Jerónimos, built in 1502 and where Vasco de Gama once prayed and is buried. Check hours and closing dates before you go. After all that historical discovery, it’s time to sample some more recent history. Portugal is famous for its egg custard tarts, known as pasteis de nata, and arguably the most famous pastry shop in Lisbon sits right next door to the monastery in Belém, where the tarts originated. Pasteis de Belém sold its first tarts in 1837; and if you only have time to try one shop, this is it. But you could spend days sampling the tarts all over town. You can spend hours walking around the mostly flat central Lisbon areas along Avenida Liberdade, but to really

experience Lisbon you must go up the hills of the neighborhoods like Barrio Alta and Alfama. Unless you want a workout, consider a tram, a taxi or an Uber to get you to the hilltops. Tram 28, which you can board at Martim Moniz Square for a few euros, has become well-known to tourists for its low-cost, scenic route up and around the city. But there are often long lines, so consider a backup plan like a taxi if your time is limited. To get an overview of this city built on seven hills, take advantage of one of Lisbon’s miradouros, or viewpoints, like Miradouro da Graca, where you can get a coffee or a cold beer while you savor the panoramic views. Or at Lisbon’s most famous landmark and most visited tourist attraction, the Castelo de São Jorge. Perched on the highest of Lisbon’s hills, in Alfama, the city’s oldest district, the Moorish castle housed Portuguese kings from the 12th century, when the Moors were overthrown, until the 16th century. Fado music — the mournful, passionate music played in clubs around the city — gained global renown as a Lisbon experience. Some of my contacts warned me visiting a fado club was too touristy, but we didn’t find it so, and the evening was one of the best we had in the city. In fact, the music was classified in 2011 as a UNESCO Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

We took a cab to the well-known Clube de Fado in the Alfama district on a rainy Friday night and squeezed into a tiny table near the entrance as the music was about to begin. The dark, crowded room barely offered a stage for the performers, but the audience went silent as the female singer emerged. Backed by 12-string Portuguese guitars, her mournful tones reached the dark corners, carrying a tale with no need for translation. Yearning, heartbreak, grief all seemed to be mixed into one sorrowful song. As she finished, the applause erupted from this crowd of locals ranging in age from 20 to 60 and up. Some were clearly hipsters; others were older but still fashionable. We noticed only a few obvious tourists. Europe’s westernmost capital city, Lisbon enjoys a subtropical Mediterranean climate with more hours of sunshine per year than Athens, so it makes sense beaches are a big draw here. The official tourist agency notes the city gets 290 days of sunshine a year. With a free day, or even just an afternoon, consider

visiting Carcavelos Beach, about a half-hour’s drive or ride on public transit. Stop at a waterfront restaurant for fresh seafood, some drinks and a spectacular sunset view. A must-do daytrip is Sintra, reachable by commuter trains from Rossio Station. The train ride takes about 45 minutes to this small village with castles and palaces, gardens and hiking trails. Catch a morning train and spend the day. If you have more time, Sintra makes a fine place to stay a few days and combine relaxation and romance. Its forested mountains with outstanding views drew the wealthy and the royals who built elaborate residences here in the 1800s. Not surprisingly, Sintra is often described as a fairy-tale destination. One of the most popular stops in Sintra, the Pena Palace, provides an ostentatious example of Romanticism, built by King Ferdinand II in 1838. A forest and gardens with more than 500 species of trees from around the world surround this multicolored palace.

FAIRY-TALE TOWN: Pena Palace in Sintra

PHOTO: © BALATE CRISTIAN MIRCEA - DREAMSTIME.COM

DINING BAIRRO DO AVILLEZ Celebrity chef José Avillez offers multiple dining venues at this spot in Chiado. Check out the Páteo and its memorable grilled tiger prawns and smooth sheep’s cheese. Rua Nova da Trindade 18 $$$$ OLIVIER AVENIDA Don’t miss the house favorite, picanha beef (sirloin cap in the United States), at Chef Olivier da Costa’s signature restaurant.

Thin-sliced and served with truffle sauce, it’s rich but delicious. Rua Júlio César Machado 7 $$$$ SEEN LISBOA Come to this new hot spot atop the Tivoli Avenida hotel for the fabulous city views and innovative cocktails. The food is top-notch, too. Savor the banana peanut cake. Tivoli Avenida Liberdade Lisboa, Ave. de Liberdade 185 $$$

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bucket list | ARCHES NATIONAL PARK, MOAB DESERT

Rock Stars Arches National Park and the Moab desert rest at the heart of Utah’s wild beauty. BY DEBRA BOKUR

FANTASTIC FORMATIONS: (Left to right) Arches National Park, Morning Glory Bridge and Landscape Arch PHOTOS: © JOSEMARIA TOSCANO - DREAMSTIME .COM, © ALYSTA DREAMSTIME.COM, © NUVISTA - DREAMSTIME .COM

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MY FIRST VIEW OF THE DESERT near Moab, Utah, comes into focus as the rising sun darts across red rocks stacked in layers across the landscape. Light snow left a dusting of ice crystals on the face of the stone, glittering like a million tiny lights as the dawn sun briefly catches it. It’s the sort of sight that can actually take away your breath, a moment when the concept of magic blurs with reality. The drama increases in nearby Arches National Park. The rock itself, though predominantly rust-red in color, also glints in shades of green, black, orange and even purple, depending upon the amount of iron contained within sections and the specific geologic forces that shaped its composition. Formed naturally of sandstone, more than 2,000 rock arches and windows punctuate the park landscape. New ones are in the process of formation all the time, thanks to the erosive action of wind, rain, snowmelt and the cracking that occurs when water freezes in narrow clefts and fissures. Beyond these iconic, evanescent bridges of stone arcing against the sky, the park also presents a humbling collection of tower-

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ing pinnacles; domes; hollow, honeycombed tafoni formations; otherworldly rock hoodoos; and massive boulders suspended at the tops of narrow, soaring plinths, including the 3,500-plus-ton Balanced Rock. Given that the area encompassing the park likely took millions of years to form, the notion of seeing everything in one trip proves a daunting prospect — which is where the skill and insight of a local outfitter becomes priceless. “Pre-tour custom designing is imperative, especially due to the distances between destinations around Moab,” offers Brian D. Murphy, CEO/founder, Utah Luxury Tours (a Division of Luxus Travel, Inc.). “We cater to distinguished travelers who are accustomed to concierge travel-planning services and touring privately, with a fully escorted touring experience from the time they arrive ʼtil the time we hug them goodbye at the airport.” The guides who make up Murphy’s team are local, including his business partner, Lukas Sigmund, the company’s original tour designer and lead guide. For those wishing to see and experience park highlights such as Delicate Arch, Tunnel Arch, the Devils

Garden and the Petrified Dunes, Utah Luxury Tours can build an itinerary that eliminates the navigational and parking worries and allows visitors to concentrate on the sites themselves. Whether you choose a guide or decide to go it alone, Murphy recommends including locations typically overlooked or missed entirely, such as the hike up and down the Grandstaff Trail. The route ranges in difficulty from easy to moderate, meandering over a small stream in several different spots. At the end of the canyon, hikers will find the Morning Glory Natural Bridge, the sixthlongest natural rock span in the United States. He also suggests driving up to the La Sal Mountains, following the 28-mile La Sal Mountain Loop Road for a different perspective of the high-altitude desert, or the oft-overlooked Park Avenue hike, offering a mile-long walk through high desert country. While Delicate Arch consistently rates as a must-see

for first-time park visitors, Landscape Arch is frequently skipped because parking at nearby Devils Garden can be tough to find. But it’s worth the effort; though the path beneath it is closed due to frequent rock falls, this span is regarded as one of the longest natural arches on the planet. Wondering when to go? Murphy suggests April and May are ideal; depending upon the amount of snow delivered that winter and how much moisture is in the ground, the desert can burst into spectacular blooms. He also recommends October, when the crowds have largely dispersed and mild temperatures make hiking and exploring particularly enjoyable. If a visit is on your own bucket list, don’t delay. In 2008 the famous Wall Arch succumbed to the relentless forces of gravity along Devils Garden Trail, and there’s no predicting when other astonishing and dramatic sites may also be forever altered.

INFO TO GO

The closest major airport to Arches National Park is Salt Lake City International Airport. From there it’s about a four-hour drive to the town of Moab and Arches National Park. Two closer local options are Grand Junction Regional Airport, located in Grand Junction, Colorado, approximately 1.5 hours via Interstate 70; and Canyonlands Field Airport, about 18 miles from Moab. These regional airports have limited services, with some connections to Salt Lake City. Rental cars are available from all three options, and the drive passes through stunning scenery. If you’ve contracted with a local outfitter, inquire about pick-up and drop-off choices.

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Work and Play in Italy Once business concludes, a world of wonder awaits in many of Italy’s incredible cities. ONCE THE FINAL MEETING WRAPS and the last contract is signed and sealed with a handshake, what’s next? Do you catch a flight back home or do you take advantage of the destination? If your next business trip is to Italy, we suggest adding a few more days to explore the country’s most amazing hot spots. Make time for more than meetings in these three cities. WHEN IN NAPLES Pack the briefcase away and break out the backpack as you set off to explore Naples. Whet your appetite for adventure with the best pizza in the world, found here, and then discover the seaside Castel dell’Ovo, one of the world’s oldest fortifications, and the stunning artwork of “The Veiled Christ” at San Severo Chapel. There’s more ripe for exploration, including the catacombs of San Gennaro, Caserta Royal Palace and Herculaneum. Before returning to work, indulge with a luxurious spa treatment on the beautiful island of Ischia. WHEN IN BARI Business is done in Bari, now what? The answer to that question is nearly endless, but start with a stroll through the old downtown, which retains its former Medieval splendor and boasts a number of historic sites. Tour one of Italy’s largest theaters, Teatro Petruzzelli, rebuilt to its former glory after a fire in the early 1990s. When hunger strikes, visit nearby Altamura, famous for its bread. Another nearby small town, Alberobello, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site for its noteworthy trullo, white stone building with conical roofs. WHEN IN CATANIA As the workload lessens, another UNESCO World Heritage site awaits in Catania. Boasting Sicilian Baroque architecture, Sant’Agata Cathedral is a Roman Catholic church dedicated to Saint Agatha. The city square, Piazza del Duomo, is also a listed site. Take in the sights, sounds and excited energy of La Pescheria, the fish market, before embarking on a full-day tour from Catania to the ancient town of Taormina and the fascinating landscape of Mount Etna. For more information, visit www.italia.it

Castel dell’Ovo

Alberobello

Taormina

kicking back | TAHITI

Polynesian Paradise Pause for a luxurious break in the Tahitian Islands. BY KRISTY ALPERT I HAD JUST TAKEN OFF MY SANDALS, stepping onto the white-sand beach for a late-morning walk to a secluded spot I heard about from a front desk clerk, when I glanced down and saw the time on my phone. It had just turned 11 a.m., which meant it was only 7 a.m. back home, the perfect time to call and say good morning to my husband before he left for work. Not quite ready to head back to my room, I decided I’d test the WiFi signal and made the call as I continued walking toward the shoreline. “Good morning from Bora Bora,” I said, half guiltily, as I heard the line connect after just two rings. “Wish you were here!” The conversation continued as I trudged farther and farther away from the canopied loungers and sun beds

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sunken in the sand. I gripped my phone a little harder as I took my first step into the crystal-clear water, letting the salty, still liquid cool my toes and rise higher up my legs as I stepped deeper and deeper into the shallow Pacific Ocean lagoon. Up to my waist in seawater, I ended the call as I finally reached the aim of my morning journey. With one last, “Miss you,” I hung up the phone, placed it in a waterproof bag and collapsed into a private overwater hammock that hung loosely between two poles so the netting barely kissed the water’s surface as I swung slowly. All alone. Not another living soul in sight. Often regarded as a honeymoon destination due to its romantic scenery and private overwater bungalows, Bora Bora’s recent connectivity and increased flight schedules from

BLISSFUL BLUE:

Overwater hammock (above), and Four Seasons Bora Bora overwater bungalows (right) PHOTOS: © MARTIN VALIGURSKY DREAMSTIME.COM, © MOEAVA DE ROSEMONT / FOUR SEASONS BORA BORA

INFO TO GO

All international flights arrive and depart in Tahiti’s capital city of Papeete. From there, a 50-minute flight via Air Tahiti Nui puts guests at Bora Bora Airport, where they can either take a car transfer to a resort on the main island or hop in their corresponding resort boat to shuttle via water to their resort’s private motu.

many U.S. hubs make this Polynesian paradise more accessible for solo travelers and business men and women looking to kick back and escape the grueling 9 to 5. The island sits within the French overseas territory of French Polynesia, a country divided into five groups of islands: the Society Islands, the Tuamotu Islands, the Marquesas Islands, the Austral Islands and the Gambier Islands. Only 67 of the country’s 118 islands and atolls are inhabited, with the majority of Tahitians residing within the Society Islands, home to French Polynesia’s most famous islands of Tahiti, Moorea, Tetiaroa and Bora Bora. With a larger-than-life reputation as the Pearl of the Pacific, Bora Bora consists of a series of smaller islands (motus) and a main island encompassing less than 15 square miles in total. Most of the resorts in Bora Bora reside on their own private motu, a short boat or helicopter ride from Bora Bora’s main port of Vaitape. The main island centers around a dormant volcano that rises

dramatically above the lush jungle floor into two peaks, Mount Pahia and the showstopping Mount Otemanu. The most sought-after accommodations within Bora Bora feature views of Mount Otemanu, Bora Bora’s unofficial icon, and no resort offers a better view than Le Méridien Bora Bora. This Marriott-owned resort features 98 bungalows; the overwater offerings feature unobstructed views of Mount Otemanu and direct access to the water from each private outdoor deck. The resort’s casual restaurant, Le Te Ava, allows guests to dine in the sand in the shade of a traditional Polynesian thatched roof as they sample one of the most beautiful renditions of Tahiti’s national dish, poisson cru, a ceviche-like item prepared with raw tuna marinated in lime juice and coconut milk. The resort also hosts French Polynesia’s only turtle sanctuary within the on-site Ecological Center. Le Méridien offers free tours of the center to educate guests on the protection and

LODGING FOUR SEASONS RESORT BORA BORA Little details create the base for the Four Seasons Bora Bora experience, where interiors by local architect Pierre-Jean Picart welcome guests into the 107 bungalows. Motu Tehotu, Bora Bora $$$$$ LE MÉRIDIEN BORA BORA Each of the 98 bungalows of this retreat offer stunning vistas, but the overwater bungalows with Mount Otemanu

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views earned this resort the reputation of having the best ones in Bora Bora. Motu Tape, Bora Bora $$$$$ THE ST. REGIS BORA BORA RESORT No wonder many celebrities frequent this luxury resort. The attention to detail and discreet service pair perfectly with the 90 sumptuous suites, including the largest overwater bungalows in the South Pacific. Motu Ome’e, Bora Bora $$$$$

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DINING BLOODY MARY’S Less known for its cuisine than its iconic Polynesian atmosphere, Bloody Mary’s is a must-see while in town, even if just to grab a drink and spot some celebs from your seat in the sand. Povai Bay, Bora Bora $$$ LAGOON RESTAURANT BY JEANGEORGES Three-star Michelin chef JeanGeorges Vongerichten takes the helm of this exquisite restaurant, where French and Asian influences impart an upscale twist on fresh Polynesian ingredients.

PACIFIC GEMS:

Lagoon Restaurant by JeanGeorges at The St. Regis Bora Bora (top), and overwater bungalows (bottom) PHOTOS: © THE ST. REGIS BORA BORA RESORT

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preservation work biologists undertake, and for a small fee, visitors can participate in a Live My Life session, in which they interact with these amazing creatures and participate in the care and healing of the sea turtles alongside the team of biologists. All of the resorts along Bora Bora’s motu lie just a short boat ride from each other, making it easy to hop around with a pre-arranged water taxi or boat transfer to other resorts or even back to Vaitape to explore the small markets that come to life in the early afternoon or go celebrity-spotting at the sandy-floored seafood joint, Bloody Mary’s. The often-crowded restaurant’s low-key vibe attracts famous names like Pierce Brosnan, Jimmy Buffet, Kurt Russell, Kareem Abdul-Jabbar and others. Visitors looking for fine dining won’t find it at Bloody Mary’s, but they will at the island’s best establishment, Lagoon Restaurant by Jean-Georges. The restaurant sits over the water at The St. Regis Bora Bora, where this 3-star Michelin chef created a menu

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The St. Regis Bora Bora, Motu Ome’e, Bora Bora $$$ LE TE AVA The casual dining restaurant concocts one of the best renditions of Tahiti’s most popular dish, poisson cru: raw tuna and coconut marinated in lime juice, then served in a real coconut shell. Le Méridien Bora Bora, Motu Tape, Bora Bora $$$

worthy of his many accolades. The restaurant is the only place in the world to find uravena on the menu, as this local fish presents a formidable challenge to most chefs in its preparation. As if this highly rare dish weren’t enough to create a memorable dining experience, the restaurant itself sits on a dock where glass-paneled flooring alone stands between diners and the black-tipped sharks that lurk in the water beneath the restaurant. The St. Regis Bora Bora also features the largest overwater bungalows in the South Pacific, where rooms include features like private gazebos, glass-paneled floors, private plunge pools and direct access to the water below via private ladders. The resort’s 90 accommodations range from garden villas with a private beach to overwater villas and royal overwater villas, as well as the jaw-dropping royal estate with three bedrooms spread throughout 13,000 square feet, plus a private chef available upon request. Guests of the resort split their days between relaxing just off the beach in the resort’s private offshore hammock and sipping drinks at the swim-up pool bar or heading off the motu for some Tahitian adventures. The resort can arrange everything from full-day scuba diving excursions to jet ski tours of the islands, putting guests behind the controls of a state-of-the-art water craft as they zip in and out of the motu and lagoons. True adventure seekers can book a half- or full-day shark and ray tour with Lagoon Service Bora Bora. The trip begins with an introductory snorkel through the coral gardens followed by a stop in the shallows to wade through a sea floor of giant manta rays before heading out to the deeper, open waters to swim with black-tipped reef sharks. The tour wraps up with a locally prepared lunch on a private island where locals demonstrate how to find, crack and enjoy a fresh coconut. Coconuts appear throughout Polynesia in everything from gastronomy to health remedies, but no coconut creation is more representative of Tahitian culture than monoi oil. The

ack n bl a i t i Tah are ls pear for n know eauty, rb thei ly a on er but ied sell if qual vise on ad can ly cost . s i th ent stm e v n i UNDERWATER TREASURE:

oils are delicately scented with the petals of a tiare flower and can be found on all pages of the spa menu at Miri Miri Spa by Clarins at The St. Regis Bora Bora. The oils have a softening effect on both skin and hair and make for a great souvenir to recall a time spent taking in the beauty, relaxation and little luxuries of the Tahitian Islands.

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Swimming along coral (top) and Tahitian pearls (bottom) PHOTOS: © THE ST. REGIS BORA BORA, © JOHN SINAL / FOUR SEASONS BORA BORA

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lgbtq+

Diversity in the Desert Stylish Palm Springs extends a warm welcome to all. BY MARK CHESNUT IF YOU WANT TO KNOW WHY LGBTQ+ travelers love Palm Springs, just ask Casey Zilionis, a travel advisor at Cruise C2C, a Virtuoso affiliate travel agency in the desert city. He sums it up with three words: climate, comfort and style. Indeed, this desert destination’s climate has attracted all types of travelers for decades. “With only 10 to 20 days of annual rainfall, you’re almost guaranteed a bright and sunny vacation,” he said. As for comfort, the destination’s impressive diversity assures a welcoming environment for LGBTQ+ globetrotters. “Palm Springs boasts a 35 percent LGBT year-round population,” Zilionis said. “Our entire City Council is LGBT. Walk down the street or into any restaurant or bar and you’ll be surrounded by LGBT folks, whether that establishment is labeled ‘gay’ or not. It’s just easy to be ourselves in Palm Springs.” The destination’s friendliness is also evident on the website of the Greater Palm Springs Convention and Visitors Bureau, with a detailed LGBT travel section. Style — the third component of the city’s allure, according to Zilionis — is easy to find here, too. “Palm Springs is definitely where the mid-century modern revival is at its peak,” he explained. “You’ll see it everywhere, from the sleek white homes to the way people dress.” Accommodation options in Palm Springs can be equally stylish; Zilionis recommends The Hacienda at Warm Sands as an ideal “all-gay” hotel for upscale travelers. One of the top choices for all-gay, men-only accommodations is the clothing-optional INNdulge, while travelers of all backgrounds will find lovely gay-friendly boutique ambience at properties like La Serena Villas, Avalon Hotel and Bungalows, Arrive Palm Springs and Kimpton The Rowan Palm Springs. The nightlife and party scene in Palm Springs can be as wild or tranquil as a visitor prefers. For upscale travelers, Zilionis recommends the Purple Room, a show lounge and supper club with a popular Sunday drag show, and Blackbook, a gay bar that also serves food. “It’s interesting to note that, even though we have plenty of bars and hotels, many travelers come to Palm Springs to ‘play house’ — in other words, rent a fabulously chic home and do all of their entertaining on property,” Zilionis added.

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CULTURAL OASIS: Palm Springs welcome sign (above), and INNdulge (left) PHOTOS: © LIZZIEMAHER - DREAMSTIME.COM, © INNDULGE

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Captivating Cape Town This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world. You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers

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passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet. Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle. Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25). The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million. Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center. Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you ap proach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background. Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300. While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques

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aiport update

Leaps and Bounds Beijing Capital International Airport expands and adapts to growing passenger numbers. BY ERICH MARTIN

THE BIGGEST AIRPORT SERVING the capital of the People’s Republic of China experienced many major expansions and improvements since its inception in 1958. China’s No. 1 Gateway, as it is known locally, remains one of the largest and busiest airports in the world. With China’s growth on the international stage, Beijing Capital International Airport’s traffic volume also grew. Between 1978 and 2014 the airport expanded from serving 1.03 million passengers every year to 86.13 million passengers annually. The jump represents the secondlargest growth among airports in the same timeframe. In addition to serving a massive number of passengers annually, the airport works hard to uphold standards of social responsibility. To this end it produces annual corporate responsibility reports and constantly works toward a positive economic impact for the surrounding region. Beijing, located in the northeast portion of the country, is the second-most populous city in the world at 18.5 million people. In order to accommodate such a robust city, Beijing Capital International Airport needs to implement special service standards. The entire airport operation hinges on being able to run smoothly even while dealing with massive numbers of passengers. On-site check-in opens about 90 minutes before takeoff on domestic flights and extends to two hours for international flights. Like all major airports, Beijing Capital

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recommends perusing security guidelines before arrival so there are no surprises when guests finally travel through security. This behemoth of an airport really stands out in terms of guest entertainment and culture. Between airport staff putting on performances for guests, art exhibitions and more, the airport offers plenty to catch the eye of travelers as they make their way through the facility. The staff art troupe performs singing, dancing and magic shows every day at Terminal 3-E. In the same terminal, guests can feed fish at two gardens with complimentary feed supplies and take in cultural performances as well. Just as much visual wonderment catches guests’ interest throughout the rest of the airport. With fountain-bolstered rainbows, photography walls, digital experience zones and much more, guests always find something to look at while they make their way to their gates. Terminal 1 is home to the secret garden display, indicative of the tropical destinations guests may see when departing from that terminal, while other terminals feature playgrounds for children and lounges for passengers to comfortably pass the time until their departure. Beijing Capital International Airport was founded more than 50 years ago, but it continues to grow and adapt. With nearly 100 million passengers in 2017, the last year measurements were available, it is safe to say it is still growing and serving Beijing well.

CHINA’S NO. 1 GATEWAY:

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health

Don’t Ignore Joint Pain Early diagnosis and treatment can help you avoid damage from arthritis. BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, RN, MSN, CCRN ARTHRITIS IS INFLAMMATION or degeneration of one or more joints. Arthritis involves the breakdown of cartilage. Normal cartilage protects the joints where two bones meet and allows them to move smoothly. Cartilage also absorbs shock when pressure is placed on a joint, such as when you walk. Without the normal amount of cartilage, bones become damaged and rub together. This causes swelling (inflammation) and stiffness. Joint inflammation and stiffness may result from general wear and tear on the joints, a broken bone, a viral or bacterial infection, or the formation of crystals such as uric acid or calcium. Another cause is an autoimmune disease in which the body’s immune system attacks healthy tissue. In most cases, the inflammation goes away after the cause goes away or is treated. However, sometimes it does not. When this happens, you have long-term or chronic arthritis. Arthritis occurs in men and women, and there are more than 100 different types of arthritis. Osteoarthritis is the most common; other common types include ankylosing spondylitis, crystal arthritis, juvenile rheumatoid arthritis in children, bacterial infection, reactive arthritis in adults, scleroderma and systemic lupus erythematosus. Arthritis causes joint pain, swelling and limited joint movement (limited range of motion) as well as redness and warmth of the skin around the joint and joint stiffness, especially in the morning. Some types of arthritis may cause deformity. This could be a sign of severe, untreated, rheumatoid arthritis. Your health care provider will perform a physical examination and ask about your medical history. Your exam may show fluid around the joint; warm, red, tender joints; and difficulty moving the joint. Blood tests and joint X-rays can

check for infection and other causes of arthritis. Your provider may also remove a sample of joint fluid with a needle to send to the lab to test for inflammation crystals or infection. The goal of treatment is to reduce pain, improve function and prevent further joint damage. The underlying cause often cannot be cured. Lifestyle changes prove the preferred treatment for osteoarthritis and other types of joint swelling. Exercise can help relieve stiffness, reduce pain and fatigue, and improve muscle and bone strength. Your health care team can help you design an exercise program best for you; it may include low-impact aerobic activity such as walking, range-of-motion exercises for flexibility and strength training for muscle tone. Try to make gentle exercise a part of your life. Your provider may suggest physical therapy which might include heat or ice, water therapy, massage, and splints or orthotics to support joints and improve their position. This is often needed for rheumatoid arthritis. Be sure to get plenty of sleep. Sleeping 8–10 hours a night and taking naps during the day can help you recover from a flare-up faster and may even prevent flare-ups. Avoid staying in one position too long. Avoid positions or movements that place extra stress on your sore joints. Change your home to make activities easier such as installing grab bars in the shower, tub and near the toilet. Try stress-reducing activities such as meditation, biofeedback, yoga or tai chi. Research shows acupuncture can help relieve the pain of arthritis. Eat a healthy diet full of fruits and vegetables which contain important minerals and vitamins, especially vitamin E. Eat foods rich in omega-3 fatty acids such as cold-water fish (salmon, mackerel and herring), flaxseed, canola oil, soybeans and soy oil, pumpkin seeds and walnuts. Avoid

smoking and excessive alcohol consumption. Apply capsaicin cream over your painful joints; you may feel improvement in three to seven days. Lose weight if you are overweight; weight loss can greatly improve joint pain in legs and feet. Use a cane or other assistive devices to reduce pain from hip, knee, ankle or foot arthritis. Medications may be prescribed along with lifestyle changes. All medications have some risks. Your provider should closely follow your use of arthritis medications. Over-the-counter options include acetaminophen (Tylenol), aspirin, ibuprofen or naproxen. Prescription medications may include corticosteroids to help with inflammation, disease-modifying antirheumatic drugs to treat autoimmune arthritis, biologics or other medicines for rheumatoid arthritis, and medications for gout. Take your medication as directed by your provider. If you experience side effects, contact your provider and make sure he or she reviews your current list of all the medications you take. For osteoarthritis of the knee, consult an orthopedic surgeon for injections of steroids or hyaluronic acid, which may provide short-term relief. In some cases, surgery such as arthroscopy, joint replacement or resurfacing of the joint may be required if other treatments have not worked. Complications of arthritis include long-term pain, disability and difficulty performing daily activities. A few arthritis-related disorders can be completely cured with proper treatment. Most forms of arthritis, however, are long-term, chronic conditions. Early diagnosis and treatment can prevent joint damage. If you have a family history of arthritis, tell your health care provider, even if you do not have joint pain. Avoiding excessive, repeated motions may help protect you against osteoarthritis.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.

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Few experiences in Bhutan beat attending a Tshechu, a Buddhist festival held in one of the regional dzongs (an imposing cross between a castle and a monastery). For the duration, plays and dances are performed to a raucous audience of rural people in traditional dress, many of whom walked for days to get there. Learn more about Bhutan next month as you read Destination One: Bhutan. PHOTO: © HUNGCHUNGCHIH - DREAMSTIME.COM

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